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25

You want to add backing to the inside sides of the existing studs as well as to the centre of the span. The simplest way to do this is to cut the new backing (preferably 2x4, or whatever the existing stud dimensions are) about 4" longer than the height of the opening and screw them to the existing studs. The cut one more piece of backing to the same length ...


7

I'm a Drywaller of 25 years, the saw blade suggestions are DANGEROUS there are possible screws going up the center of that stud ... do not use a saw blade, the guy who suggested the utility knife had it right, make sure you have a screw gun handy incase you come across a screw.


6

Use a utility knife to score through the drywall. It will take several passes to get all the way through. Go slow, be careful, and don't over cut at the ends. Only go 3/4" onto the stud, going an inch or more could cause you to expose the whole stud and weaken the drywall on the opposite side. I do agree that doing this is not enough for that wide of a ...


4

It's hard to say whether your drywall will support this, it might, it might not. Big factors are the thickness, condition, and stud spacing. As well, if the bars ever experience a dynamic load like someone bumping into it, pulling on mugs, etc. it might very well fail while it was fine with a static load. The "right" way to do this is to open up the walls ...


3

Assuming the hole is the width of a typical stud bay, just attaching the patch on the edges is not a sufficiently strong solution. Screws (or nails) near edges weaken the structural integrity of drywall and the patch is likely to shift and crack eventually. I would attach short pieces to each stud for mounting the sides and 1x3s top and bottom to span the ...


3

It looks like one layer of paper has separated from the other. The paper surrounding the tearout has loose flaps of paper around it too. Remove all loose paper and give a tight skim coat or two of paste spackle, sand smooth, prime and paint. You will be wise to get a 4" drywall knife to help in this. The little 1" knife that is considered a putty knife ...


3

Pro installers will install drywall over irregular framing, which can give the impression of thicker sheets. Drywall can be skimcoated with setting joint compound. This can be as thick as 1/4 inch, in some cases. Originally, the skim was done with plaster In any case, you should fill with a setting compound mixed a bit stiffly and taper out 12 inches ...


2

Hopefully there was a notch drilled in the plate, so that when a wire staple is set it will pull the wire in behind the face of the drywall. It should have been cut out large enough to allow a metal plate to cover the wire to protect it, although it is unlikely there will be any nails or screws going into the corner right there, but you never know.... ...


2

Tape alone; no cutting the paper. Your friend is correct that much of the strength comes from the paper facing. Check out the videos that have you feathering out the joint with a 10 or 12 inch knife.


2

If it was me, I'd cut away the bad drywall and replace it with 1/2" hardi board. That'll give a flat, solid and waterproof substrate for your tiles, in contrast to the beaten up drywall you've got now. Oh, and be sure to thoroughly caulk the gap between the drywall and the hardi.


2

While the usual trick for super-flat butt joints is to set the gap between studs (see the first answer in Should drywall be hung horizontally or vertically? for an excellent description), it doesn't seem like your situation would work for this. Sadly, the best advice is to get a 10 or 12" taping knife and feather, feather, feather. (I personally wouldn't ...


2

WHile the selected answer is the cleanest way, if you wish to cut back to the existing studs, use the RightToolForTheJob (TM). That is, get yourself a multi-tool oscillator, like this one Genesis . There are better, more expensive ones, but either way this tool will do a hundred different jobs. For your purpose, put the saw blade on and it'll be easy ...


2

I have an abused cordless circular-saw for situations like this, where adding furring isn't an option. The accepted answer tells you how to patch a hole in some drywall where adding furring is an option. It fails to entail how to cut drywall half-off a stud (upvoted however, because as pictured, that's what you do). Draw a line. Set the appropriate depth. ...


2

On the wall you need to cut out the entire square of drywall out, mud and tape it, sand it, paint it. With fast drying mud and a fan you can do this in 6 hours easy and maybe 30-45 mins of actual work. For a door the only thing you can do is try to Bondo it but it should be replaced. If you are leaving the place they might charge you for the door even ...


2

100 pounds is not an impossible load. Heavy mirrors routinely weigh that much and are often mounted in drywall using two anchor points. No question, mounting on studs is much stronger and more reliable. Also, as pointed out by @Steven, dynamic loads are much more challenging than static loads. Repeated strong tugs could weaken an otherwise fine mounting. ...


1

Yes, you can and should sand latex if you are painting over it. You cannot expect the next coat of paint to grip if it doesn't have a roughed surface to grip to. Painting a glossy or glazed surface is like painting glass - it has no adhesion and will lift right up. Fresh latex is hard to sand because it hasn't cured yet. You have to wait it out. If it ...


1

If it was indeed just recent & not an ongoing for years situation. Then, let it dry for a week or 2 & see how solid it is then. As long as it feels as solid as before & the rest of the walls, then definitely scrape off what bubbled, split & wrinkled paint you can so there are no lifting or flapping edges. You'll want to fill those new low ...


1

The opening must be sealed in accordance with the listing of the rated ceiling/floor assembly. This will vary among the wide variety assemblies currently and previously listed. Unfortunately, there is no generic correct answer. A correct code compliant solution requires research and expertise atypical among homeowners, or plain dumb luck.


1

If the tape on the wall is fine, one option is to cut the existing tape along the seam between the ceiling and the wall. Remove the half from the ceiling as repair ceiling as needed. Then, to finish, run a bead of caulk along the seam and paint. Tape is always preferred, but I've used caulk for inside corners in lieu of tape many times and (knock on ...


1

It is best not to damage the drywall skin in any way. Even when you are securing the panel with fasteners you should only be dimpling the paper and not puncturing the surface. Drywall tape, fiberglass or paper, is applied to seams because they increase the strength of the joint compound and decreases the chance of the joint splitting or cracking if there is ...


1

As you can easily feel if you play with some drywall scraps, the paper is the strength - so don't cut it unless you are cutting the drywall.


1

You have a leak - that's what causes moist drywall in virtually all cases. The rust is presumably coming from drywall nails/screws or other nails or steel/iron in the wall. Without fixing the leak first, no repair will last. Once you get the leak fixed you can coat the wall with a "stain-blocking primer" (often shellac based) to stop the rust stains from ...


1

Just buy a little tub of joint compound, or spackling and cover up the areas. You will have to paint it as well. If it is a hole then get a small piece of drywall slightly bigger than the hole but where you can still get it inside (you may have to cut it bigger). Drill a hole in the middle to fit a piece of string in it. This will help you to hold it to ...


1

TL/DR version: It doesn't matter how many of those rails you put into any one sheet of drywall (assuming they are not crazy close together). Those loads won't interact with each other. The problem with drywall is preventing the fastener from pulling out - if your fastener doesn't pull out, then you're going to be fine. Longer: You can ignore the vertical ...


1

Make an additional support! Just take a long plank (or whatever You may think of as an aestethically-looking construction item) and attach it to the studs (if You are sure where they are), then - attach Your hangers to the plank/support. Given this You may want to choose whatever You like to look good and it will function well. If You will use correct ...


1

I'd use mesh tape, overlapped if necessary. Let your first coat set for a while since it'll be thick inside the hole. If it bulges out while drying, just push it back to flat after a couple of hours.


1

I'd doubt that any sort of cover-up will be satisfactory. In fact, a faux finish will likely make the problem more noticeable. I would suggest spreading the plaster out over a much larger area, maybe 3x the size, and sanding and feathering from there with a few passes of progressively finer sandpaper, otherwise your eye will always be drawn to the same spot. ...



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