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25

Correct way to do it as instructed on 'Canada's worst Handyman': cut a piece of strapping (wood) that will be a couple inches longer than the hole on each side. put the strapping inside the hole and attach it using a couple of drywall screws so that it is across the hole. cut a piece of drywall that is the same size as the hole, as close as you can get ...


14

I don't think you'll be happy with spackle for anything bigger across than a nail hole. It's not very strong, and also not very sticky. So what tends to happen in your situation is that the spackle will fall through the hole into the wall; if not when you're applying it then it will be likely to do it when you try to sand it smooth before you paint. I ...


10

There's an alternative to @dilbert789's solution when you're dealing with holes this small: cut a rectangle of drywall about three inches larger than your damaged area in both dimensions. score the back of the drywall one inch in from each edge. break the drywall at the score line, and then remove the drywall from the paper. trace the drywall portion of ...


9

Setting-type compound (the bagged kind you mix vs. the drying-type you buy premixed in a bucket) will easily fill a 1/2" gap without cracking. Make sure you load up the gap well before applying your tape, then finish it as you would any other joint. Sadly I have a lot of experience filling this type of gap from my own basement project a few years ago...


8

Painting with a roller leaves an "orange peel" type texture that you can't match exactly with a brush. When you brushed your new paint on, the orange peel texture in the unsanded areas just telegraphed through your new brushed paint, but the smoothly sanded parts had no such base texture so they look visibly smoother. To fix this I'd go over your patches ...


8

We've done a double layer of drywall to slow the spread of fire in multi-unit developments, specifically between the ceiling and attic space. However, judging by the gap, I'm guessing that you might have this done as a retrofit to block sound. There will be somewhere that the drywall is attached, and it's likely going to be metal tracks running every 16". ...


4

I'm not aware of anything special for fire rating a joint in drywall, just use the same joint compound and tape you would use on the rest of your walls. Fire rated drywall will cut similar to normal drywall, but it will offer a lot more resistance because of the embedded fiberglass. When sealing any gaps or cracks, they make special fire rated expanding ...


4

Yes. The purpose of primer is to seal the raw plaster/gypsum/drywall and create a better surface for finish paint that won't soak it up. As long as the rest of the wall is properly cleaned before painting (paint doesn't bond well to dirt, grease, etc), your finish coat should look even and consistent. For your situation, assuming the existing paint was ...


4

Sounds like a bad spot in the drywall, maybe caused by water damage, or physical abuse. You're probably best to keep cutting until you find a good section, though you may get away with simply taping and mudding the joint. The tape should hold the section together, so even if the plaster is crumbling it will be held in place. If you opt to just tape and mud, ...


4

Paper tape you apply mud first then bed the paper tape with mud still wet. Apply a thin layer of mud slightly wider than width of tape Lay tape over seam Scrape the paper tape with a taping knife to bed the tape. A thin layer of mud will cover the tape in the process. Feather the edges of the mud with a wide knife (10" - 12") wait until dry and scrape down ...


3

The paper type drywall tape is attached to the wall with the first thin coat of drywall mud and then covered over with a thin layer of additional wet mud. Some installers may even wet the paper tape before installation. The paper type is a pain to use though in comparison to the modern type of fiber glass screen mesh tape. This type comes with a glue on ...


3

The fan may be able to be salvaged, only inspection and testing after it has been dried out can determine this. All the components should be removable from the metal box that is fastened to the ceiling joists. Be sure to turn off power at the breaker before doing any electrical work, though many fans simply unplug from the containing box. Just to be safe. ...


3

I would expect that behind the drywall at the bottom is a 2x4 plate running horizontally that the vertical studs rest on. The bracket should be low enough that you can use a 2 inch screw and anchor to that. You may want to repair the drywall before you put the bracket back. Its hard to tell from the photos if the damage is light enough that you can fill ...


3

The difference in the texture is because a roller was used originally and then you are painting the patch with a brush. Use a roller on the second coat and you will notice the texture will match exactly. That is one of the reasons why you are told to cut in on the edges with a brush first and then roll out the rest of the wall... because if you do it the ...


2

I would probably take the panel down and try again. Even if you used fiberglass mesh tape when you tape the joints, it'll be hard to finish the surface, and you're probably going to experience premature cracking, etc. You could try filling in the gap with one of several materials: foam backing rod (usually used for caulking large gaps) expanding foam ...


2

Fight fire with fire - cut a clean sharp line a distance around the damaged area, then patch. A multi tool like the one below, using a tile or wood cutting attachment (round not square) will allow you to cut a nice, crisp clean line. Much cleaner and with less vibration impact than even using a hand drywall saw in my experience.


2

(I am assuming the “spackle” is US for filler.) Have a firm base for filler does help, as you need to be able to push on the filler to get it well into the side of the holes. However as it is not the end of the world if the filler breaks when you try to send it, I would try the easy option first. For larger holes I have built up with layers of filler ...


2

You can use either all the way through. I have personally used both all the way through more than a few times and have mixed. There are generally some differences. the lightweight end mix is thicker, meaning that the regular can actually be better for a final coat since it goes on thinner the lightweight is easier to sand but I hardly sand... so this ...


2

You want to take a moderate to fine grit sandpaper and try to sand as much of the visible rust off as possible around the outside corner. Don't be concerned about plaster or drywall damage just yet. Next get a good rust sealing primer like this product: Spray liberally along the outside corner until the metal is fully covered. Next, spackle then sand ...


2

If the current walls are textured with an orange peel texture, then, yes, go ahead and use the 'texture in a can' to replicate. Every wall in our house is orange peel (blech) so when I created an interior bump out with new sheetrock, I caved in and sprayed to match. I was pleasantly surprised to find the texture-in-a-can is rather easy to apply and seems ...


2

Four inch and six inch recessed fixtures consist of two main parts - the can and the trim. They need to match. The first issue will be getting the old can out. If it is old-work style, it may be held in just by pressure clips on the sides, fairly easy to remove. If it is new-work style, it will be attached to framing members, either directly or with a brace ...


1

I would need to see pictures of what said bulbs look like in your current cans but I can tell you that they sell thousands of varieties of recessed lighting trim for 6 inch cans. I am almost positive you can find trim that will work for your 4 inch retrofits and you don't have to touch the drywall.


1

There is also a technique for butt joints that could work on a patch. A backer-board, about 4 inches wide and as long as the joint is placed in the ceiling or wall above or behind the sheetrock, centered along the joint. The butt edge of the sheetrock is then screwed into one half of the board. The butt edge of the next sheet is then placed over the second ...


1

There are rollers that will texture pre-mix joint compound, they look like ramen-noodles-in-a-tube. If they are too much, you can smooth down afterwards with a wide taping knife. Prime after the surface is well dried, 10-15% moisture


1

Mesh is definitively a better blending product. I like to embed mesh with the lightweight setting joint compound and then use general purpose (premixed) joint compound for topcoat and blending. AFA plaster cracking, there are large size mesh rolls meant for skimcoating and repairing plaster. One I know of is 36" by 150' by FibaTape


1

Spackle on it's own will work just fine for small holes. For larger holes shoving paper into the hole frequently results in lots of paper inside the wall cavity before you get it sitting just right for patching. At least that's how it goes for me. For holes that might be too gig for just spackle, yet a bit small for drywall tape, one trick I've not seen ...


1

For a hole the size of a coax cable, I would just spackle. Any larger and I would use drywall compound. It make take a couple of coats. If its up to the size of a nickle (3/4 of an inch), I would put a piece of fiberglass tape over it like Mike suggests. If its larger than that, I would cut a small piece of drywall and tap it into the whole. Here's two ...



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