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1

Sometimes new construction is easier in that you know exactly what the house is built of. If you're in an older house there may be more and more surprises which make the project harder and harder. The time estimate would vary depending on this contractor's crew size. It sounds like he has a very small crew (maybe of 1 or 2) and that is reflected in his ...


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TSP last. If you use TSP first you'll be wasting your time cleaning paint that you're just going to scrape off anyway, and the old primer/paint/wood beneath what you scrape off will remain uncleaned. If you use TSP first, that also means the chips and dust from your scraping and sanding won't be washed off. So TSP should always be your last step.


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No reason to reapply primer just purchase a paint of ur color choice and get one with a primer with it if ur worried. I've been in the drywall and painting business for over 20+ years and I would be happy to coming into a house that has a primer or white/flat white walls id be happy. Id go ahead and paint it..


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I would re-prime. 3 years is a long time, and your expectation is that this paint job will last even longer. It's possible that it would be fine without, but if it's not, you'll regret the decision. You could always use a primer + paint combo as long as you're not switching between oil and latex.


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If you want the boards to look brand spanking new again, you will want to go with method one. I'd use a heat gun to do it, and not the harsh chemical strippers. Either method takes about as long as the other and the heat gun method is less toxic, and, you either already have a heat gun and don't need to spend money, or you'll buy one and have it for a long ...


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For the wood trim around the window I would remove all the existing paint with a heat gun and scraper. The alternative would be to use coarse, then fine, sandpaper to smooth out the paint as well as possible then paint over it and live with the remaining surface imperfections. Trying to putty or spackle that smooth will be difficult at best and will ...


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Painting is easy - preparing for a new coat of paint so it will last is the hard work. You should scrape off all loose or peeling paint - otherwise the new paint will simply peel right off there. Only after that should you move to spackle and sanding to prepare the base for new paint. On wood items "putty" is preferred over "spackle" which is more of a ...


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If you have a roof on the thing, no paint or stain at all is a perfectly good option. Dredge up a new or old copy of Rex Robert's "Your Engineered House" (the later version is by Charlie Wing, updated from Rex's original) if you'd like to read all about it, or look at @paul's answer, which I upvoted - especially the first sentence. There are barns in the ...


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All wood coatings are essentially decorations. The only thing that keeps wood from rotting outside is proper drainage of it and airflow around it. Wood can get wet every time it rains and snows as long as it is permitted to shed water effectively and dry out quickly. When it stays wet even through days of sunshine and wind is when wood will begin to foster ...


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1965 - test the paint for lead. If you have lead paint, you'll need to take appropriate precautions. As for painting preparation, the usual - remove all flaking and peeling paint (scrape, sand, whatever it takes) back to sound substrate - if the substrate is not sound, replace it. That would be firmly attached paint, or the surface of the plaster or ...



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