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If the paint is peeling off the wood surface then most likely there was a problem with how the cabinet was prepared for the paint or with the paint itself. Painting any surface located in a kitchen takes more effort and attention to details when prepping it for paint. As you already know grease from cooking that becomes airborne in water vapor will adhere ...


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The paint isn't the main issue here. Repainting is just a temporary fix as the grease comes back. If it's upper cabinets as well, then your exhaust fan isn't working well enough and needs to be cleaned or replaced. However, I'd suggest just looking up some good degreasers to clean it off with. Dawn, magic erasers (could harm the paint), etc.


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It would appear, from the description that you have given, that the old paint layer never did adhere to the wall surface very well. When you are applying the new paint to the wall old paint softens and whatever hold that it did have is lost. Similar to the comment offered by @TFK I would suggest that your real choice seems to be that you may have to peel all ...


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It's a drag, but it sounds like you already know what you have to do: peel off everything that peels off easily. No use painting over an unstable substrate; the new paint will just peel off too and you'll have to start over. Might as well do it right the first time.


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The "thick scuffs" appear to be damage and the seam from a texture skimcoat. Your two photos show two very different things, so I'm sure what you're asking. At any rate, you need to repair the surface by skimming with drywall joint compound, retexture as necessary, then prime the entire wall. There's no need to remove old paint unless you have a lead ...


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It looks like patches to the sheetrock or maybe wet spots and the rock is not in good shape. You should evaluate if the sheetrock is not solid it should be cut out and replaced. I usually use green board for repairs in bathrooms.(Green board is water resistant sheetrock). I would scrape and see if the paint is well bonded if it is well bonded fill the low ...


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I've been a glazier for over 35 years and I've everything going with regards to putty. You can buy rapid setting putty where you mix in a powder that makes it skin in about 3 days or mix in a small amount poly-filler. The putty will be ready to paint within 4 days.


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Most high quality enamel and acrylic spray paints will stick relatively well to glass; you will still need to take care not to scratch it. I would clean the glass well with denatured alcohol to remove all traces of oil, dirt, etc. and spray at least 3 coats (following paint manufacturers instructions). Let it cure for a long time prior to manipulation, dry ...


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Unless you have some particular reason related to plasti-dip's peel-ability to choose that, just hit it with some black paint, and be careful not to scrape it when moving it (indeed, hit it with some black paint, and then you might want to cover the paint with paper for damage protection before moving it, after you check that the paint job is perfect.) I'd ...


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I hope your glass is tempered. There spray cans or even brush on cans of "chalkboard paint"


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Concrete dust becomes air-bourn when it is pulverized (due to tool use: drilling, sawing, hammering, etc.). The fine silt concrete dust is thrown into the surrounding air by electric tool motor fans or other air currents. The particulate is so small and light-weight any slight breeze will distribute it until it finally sinks and lands on a surface. Where, ...



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