Hot answers tagged painting
13
Painting hinges is not a question of being better or worse. Depending on the motif, hinge finishes are often selected to compliment the door or trim color. Example: brass metal finish often used with tan trim/doors or natural wood finishes. Chrome or brushed nickel hardware is popular with white trim/doors. Hinges and passage sets come in a lot of ...
12
Yes, you should prime the whole surface.
Sealing/priming helps prevent penetration of vapors and moisture from the air into the drywall. If you don't seal the entire surface, even though it's behind cabinets, penetration can happen - mind you it's not going to be significant but it can happen.
Plus the time involved to paint behind those cabinets that ...
12
Your crack is forming over and over because the steam pipe is getting hot, expanding, and cracking your plaster.
The solution is to cut the plaster back about 1/4" from the walls of the pipe all the way around, then to cover the seam with an escutcheon that hides the crack.
Example of a smaller escutcheon:
10
I was quite skeptical about the paint and primer combo's, but Valspar gave me a couple of gals to try out. I was surprised how well it covered over dark colors. The down side was that it is not as smooth as regular premium grade paints. It seemed a bit dry going on, but that is because it is very high in clay content. I decided the best combo was to use ...
9
I would suggest a paint plunger which doesn't require a drill and is more thorough in stirring the paint than a paint stick.
Just use a plunging motion to get the paint from the bottom of the can to mix thoroughly though the tin, they come in different sizes as you see for different size paint cans.
9
I never tape anything and people are amazed at the crisp lines I paint in my home. I use a high quality angled brush for this. Depending on my wrist fatigue and room, I work from either left to right, or vice versa with this technique. This is self-taught and I have no idea if their is a name for this.
I load the brush up with plenty of paint and then ...
8
If we're talking a cast iron radiator, it's a good process.
First you need to remove the old finish. You can get it sandblasted, or you can get in there with some sandpaper for a few hours. A wire wheel on an angle grinder can get out a good bit, or you might have luck with chemicals to strip them. If you do use chemicals, you'll have to wait for them to ...
8
Assuming the paint returns to the original color once dry, this is perfectly normal with flat latex paints. When I wipe my walls, the spots that I wipe look darker too.
You can observe this on many surfaces, even inpermuable ones like glass and metal - ever notice that your cars paint looks different when there are drops of water on it?
8
My dad and his dad were both professional union painters. They taught me that for small spots of spackle on the wall, all you have to do is put a quick layer of regular paint over them with a brush while you're doing your cutting-in brushwork. The spot over the spackle will be mostly dry when you go back over it with the roller later. I know from personal ...
7
We try wait at least 12 hours and use Orange core tape (delicate, low tact) and often we still get a little pull off. Don't leave the tape on any longer than you have to and pull it at an extreme angle to the wall or trim. Obviously, the longer you can wait to tape over fresh paint the better, but we don't have a lot of time on a job to wait for the paint ...
7
Remember the saying, "Haste makes waste". I understand the convenience and speed of hanging the doors so you can paint both sides at once with a sprayer. However, if you are looking for a smooth professional finish without runs, orange peel and loss of the millwork detail, painting them while hanging vertically will will not give you good results with ...
6
At minimum, you have to let the paint cure before you can really compare it. It will blend in over time for the reasons bib mentioned.
It might also help to wipe down your walls - smoking, cooking, dirt and grime will discolor them, sometimes noticeably.
Find out how the new paint was applied. If the original paint was applied with a roller, and the ...
6
If you mean the registers used in forced air HVAC then they are not really exposed to any extreme temperatures that would warrant a special paint. I would imagine that the most common type of paint used is a matt or metallic spray paint. Clean them well before painting and make sure to paint in a well ventilated area!
6
I did this exact thing a few years ago in a friend's house. The steps I took:
Remove lime efflorescence from the brick by spraying on some diluted white vinegar, then scrubbing with a stiff-bristled nylon brush. Leave to dry.
Prime and seal (there were some smoke stains on the brick) the fireplace with Kilz latex spray primer. Leave to dry.
Paint with ...
5
It makes me die a little inside when people paint over raw red brick....
That said, you tape and paper the walls where they meet the brick. Then you plastic from the paper as far out as you think you might overspray. You may even want to form a "curtain" out of the plastic to keep the brick in a make-shift paint booth.
It is just as you would mask any ...
5
First off, I'm no expert on compressor/air type sprayers. Most of the time, these type sprayers are used for very thin paints such as automotive, lacquers etc. They also have fairly small paint reservoirs attached to the gun itself. They tend to put out a lot of over spray and should be used in a controlled area like a spray booth with proper ventilation. I ...
5
Skimming walls is hard to do well, and generally best left to a pro.
An alternative is to put up thin drywall. It is available in sheets as thin as 1/4 inch. While it needs to be taped and the joints compounded, it is much easier for the average craftperson to do a good job with this method than with skim coating.
5
Rather than using paint, look at some of the dozens of dry concrete dyes. There are several methods to color concrete after it has cured. Acid wash is very effective. Check out this web site: http://www.concretenetwork.com/concrete/walkways/existingdecorativeconcretewalkways.html
There are also several other sites you can look at including Lowes, HD, and ...
5
This is one of those questions that really doesn't have a good answer. I will comment on a couple of aspects.
A good quality airless sprayer is expensive. Even a basic model can cost $300 or more. A good pro model is $500 plus.
The small paint in the head types are iffy at best and don't do a good job if tilted at any severe angle, like when doing ...
5
It's called "blocking" and often happens w/latex paints - especially if the 1st coat wasn't allowed to dry fully before the second coat was applied. It's not much of an issue on walls, but horizontal surfaces are a different story.
The ultimate solution is time - possibly a few months. The inner coat's moisture is blocked from evaporating by to outer coat. ...
5
There is very little difference between interior latex and exterior latex enamels, the primary difference in exterior enamels is probably in some additional chemicals to help resist moisture as well as resist cracking and flaking due to extreme changes in temperature.
Moisture issues aside, concrete blocks will contract and expand greatly with temperature ...
4
Yes. The purpose of primer is to seal the raw plaster/gypsum/drywall and create a better surface for finish paint that won't soak it up.
As long as the rest of the wall is properly cleaned before painting (paint doesn't bond well to dirt, grease, etc), your finish coat should look even and consistent.
For your situation, assuming the existing paint was ...
4
Paint changes color over time due to both chemical shifts and light exposure. The paint in the can has neither aged in a dry state nor been exposed to light.
The most common trick in matching paint is to cut a small patch of the drywall surface paper and paint from the area you are trying to match, and lift it with a small putty knife. Take it to the paint ...
4
If you can remove the entire face plate use regular paint stripper. When you get it down to bare metal you can polish the surface with scotchbrite pads or steelwool. You might find something to attach to your drill to make this part easier. Once you get the finish you are looking for cover it with clear enamal to protect it. If you can't get an acceptable ...
4
I've had better luck with strppers if you cover it with plastic food wrap after applying it. Be aware that some strippers will disolve the plastic so test a sample first,if it disolves the plastic try it with wax paper. The idea is to keep the solvents from evaporating before the paint has softened. Any latex paint should peel off easily. If you have oil ...
4
As we always advise, the secret to a good paint job is proper preparation. It can be a pain, but you must remove all loose and peeling paint, wash the surface and Spackle holes and cracks before priming and painting. Often a light sanding is a good idea, especially on any glossy finishes. Be aware of lead hazards on any paint applied before 1978. The actual ...
3
You can use an airless sprayer but stay away from the inexpensive models.Consult your paint supplier if thinning is required. The one problem with spraying indoors is overspray and fume buildup in other areas of the house.If it is possible remove the cabinet doors,(mark them so you can tell where they go) and drawers. Mask off the garage floor and plug in a ...
3
Sounds reasonable to out-source it, but you will still need to do a final coat on the casing after you install (door should be fine if you are careful).
To "do it right", you need to fill the nail holes and corner joints and sand, and then run a bead of painters caulk around the casing to make the cracks disappear, then paint again.
I just did the caulk on ...
3
There's no hard-and-fast rule. It's merely a break-even point where the extra preparation and cleanup time exceeds the time saved by the device. And of course the more skilled you are, the less your prep and cleanup time are.
For someone who has never used one, I'd guess that the break-even point is something like this: If you're painting entire rooms, ...
3
One paint company defines the various finishes as follows:
Satin: A finish with a low luster appearance. Washable surface, reflects some light.
Semi-Gloss: A finish that has noticable gloss and sheen. Washable, sometimes scrubbable surface, but shows surface
imperfections. Reflects light noticeably
Eggshell / Low Gloss: A finish ½ way between ...
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