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9

Getting rid of this texture will be a lot of work. I would recommend that you leave it there unless you absolutely must get rid of it. The ceiling appears to be painted, which means that the texture cannot simply be sanded off. I actually have a similar texture applied to some of the walls in my home. The only way to eliminate it besides either tearing down ...


8

Getting rid of the texture can be a lot of work, especially a type like this that has most likely been painted over. Many times the easiest method to get a new ceiling look of your choosing is to apply a layer of 1/4" drywall over the existing surface. This goes up relatively fast and can have joint taping applied to get to a smooth starting place. You can ...


7

Normally, latex paint is water soluble while oil paint isn't, so trying to dissolve a drop of paint in water should give you an indication. Don't put water in the paint bucket; if it turns out to be oil base you'll ruin it.


7

You can't just hang drywall right on top of this - I have tried. If you do the drywall will be wavy. Also that leads to issues with ceiling heights, fans, outlets, and lights. That is just a big mess. The easiest way to do this is boil some water and vinegar, get an aluminum paint tray, dump water, and roll the hot water mixture on ceiling. Then scrape ...


6

MDF is essentially a sponge when it comes to painting it. So the first thing you need to do is prime it properly so that it doesn't absorb the paint. To prime it properly, use a non-water-based primer. These are known as solvent-based primers, or, more commonly called "oil-based" primer. If you use a water-based primer, you end up with the sponge ...


6

I'd rent a batch of scaffolding (or "staging"), including some extensions to accommodate the berm. You can set up two or three sections and have 20 feet or more to work from at a stretch. It should be relatively inexpensive and you'll be able to keep it for a few days for the same money as a motorized lift. The drawback is that it's a bit slow and ...


5

No it is not safe. The plastic bag will most likely make it worse. I have seen just an open pile of rags (not bagged) smoldering in a jobsite waste can at the end of a work day. I removed them and set the pile in the yard just to be safe, it was a pile of ashes in the morning.


5

Use a roller to get the most Paint onto the door, only for 1/3rd of the door at a time & immediately Tip or Lay that area off. Tipping or Laying off is using a Paint Brush in the direction of the wood grain or simulated wood grain. Meaning, you even get the meeting joints perfect as well. You never want to just roller a door or trimwork, it looks ...


4

I am a painter and I build also and I personally will not warranty the work unless it's after 6 months. Pressure treated (PT) lumber takes months to shrink and re-contract on and off so the paint will crack and not adhere correctly. Also, the PT you buy at Lowe's or Home Depot gets moved around a lot so you may have a load of wood with boards that are weeks ...


4

I'd argue it's not worth taping in the first place. Learn to 'cut in' with a brush and you'll save yourself all sorts of headaches in the future. As for the advice, I have a hunch they don't mean literally tear off 1' sections of tapes, but apply it as-you-go foot by foot. Meaning, expose a foot of tape, rub it down good, expose more tape, rub that section ...


4

Many red flags. For one, that's not the right way to insulate a ceiling: if you want to use batts, you need to put rigid foam above the roof decking or leave ventilation channels between the roof decking and the insulation. For more info see http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/how-build-insulated-cathedral-ceiling Furthermore, the fire ...


4

This looks very like Artex to me, it's a common finish in older British houses. It was popular in the 70s. It looks like you have a relatively light dose of it, I have seen worse. It is unfortunately quite hardwearing. The best bet is to skim over it. Brush on 3 coats of 50% PVC to provide a key for the plaster, then skim over the top. You may wish to hire ...


4

A note of caution. This finish may possibly contain asbestos, don't think about sanding it if you aren't 100% sure it doesn't. If it is safe to abrade then one trick I've seen used is to just "shave" the high spots with a long handled scraper, then plaster over the remainder to smooth it out. It worked very well.


4

Depends on size. For significant blems, I'd try wood putty, handling it as if it were joint compound. If that didn't work, I might just give up and actually use joint compound... However, remember that for small nichs and scratches paint itself can fill small irregularities, especially if you scuff-sand between coats or otherwise actively level the surface. ...


4

Unless you have some particular reason related to plasti-dip's peel-ability to choose that, just hit it with some black paint, and be careful not to scrape it when moving it (indeed, hit it with some black paint, and then you might want to cover the paint with paper for damage protection before moving it, after you check that the paint job is perfect.) I'd ...


4

I used eye-bolts to anchor my ladder to my wall. random intertube photo - I just used rope and carabiners etc If I needed more security I would probably buy ladder-stabilisers or lash a plank to the bottom (less likely for ladder to rotate) and maybe buy a harness to clip myself to the ladder. random intertube photo For soft or uneven ground I once ...


4

My general rule is that paint should generally be one of the last things that you do. Refinishing a floor can make a horrible mess, and dust from sanding is going to end up all over the place. It's probably going to be easier to clean up from the floor job before prepping the walls and ceiling for painting than it would be to clean up freshly painted walls. ...


4

There's paint on sale in the UK that dries white but goes on pink. The big brand version is called Dulux magic. I haven't tried it because even painting white on white, the wet has a different sheen to the dry. Combined with being methodical this is enough. There are also cheaper brands.


3

This is not a DIY job. Mold can spread everywhere in a wood-framed house full of drywall. Call in the pros to estimate the source and extent of the infection. Simply killing the mold won't help if you don't find the moisture source that made it moldy in the first place. PSA to the world: stop building houses out of wood and drywall. Sheesh, what awful ...


3

There are just too many components to give you a definitive answer. Atlanta doesn't have extremely harsh conditions, so if your house had perfect surroundings the paint could last 50-100 years. Here are some factors: How well was the house painted. You ask if you should do a second coat. Yes. Basically if you have any paint "holes" were the first coat ...


3

Flush the sprayer with the appropriate solvent for the material you were spraying -- water for water-borne finishes, paint thinner for oils, alcohol for shellac, .... Yes, clean the gun as soon as you're done with it for at least a few hours, to avoid clogging. You may be able to just cap the finish cup and set it aside for later.


3

I have been in this position before. Tall ladders make me nervous, no matter how closely I follow the ladder safety setup guide. I also have a tall house in the middle of nowhere (rural area) that needs maintenance. Thus if I fall and get hurt it might be awhile before somebody could call 911 for me. I am a cheapskate, and didn't want to pay money for ...


3

Hi if your using an airless sprayer you can expect about 45 percent of your coating to actually hit the target. Jim is right if your in the building there is going to be tremendous overspray and will create a real headache. For an estimate of how much coating if you are going to spray you can check out this article which has a calculator to determine how ...


2

I agree on using the primer first. However, the combination primer/paint may be overkill. I would plan for 1 coat of primer and two coats of regular paint, as it is tough for the average DIYer to get full coverage with one coat of paint.


2

I'd bet on "poor preparation/paint job" (given that preparation is 90% of a good paint job.) If you wanted to, you could use a high-temperature paint such as engine enamel (typically good to 450F or more) (no need to go for the exhaust-manifold paints unless your doorframe is charring, I think.) I strongly suspect that's not really needed; you could put a ...


2

Stain never "dries" the way a lacquer or poly finish does. It will cease to be "wet" after awhile, but it will still just come off on your hands and clothing etc. Not a good idea to just leave it on there. Ultimately it is only darker if more of it soaks in. Reapplication after wiping will darken it only slightly, as most of the wood pores are already ...


2

The sanding sponges work great. Elbow grease, however, may not be the best approach. If the paint is relatively new than lightly sand the high spot by letting the sandpaper do the work. It may take some time and several passes. The friction from the sanding tools can soften the paint if it is not completely dry. Use a 80-100 grit open coat sand paper to ...


2

I would strongly suggest the walls are primed and use a mold inhibitor behind the cabinetry, especially behind the sink cabinet and where the dishwasher will set. Raw drywall should be sealed before anything is installed against it in my opinion.


2

Seems very unlikely. Consider that lots of harmful industrial chemicals are used in the production of electronics to begin with. Usually most people's concerns with VOC's associated with painting have to do with human health, especially the young and old. It's generally best to minimize any contact with these by ensuring lots of ventation and if possible, ...


2

Depending on the paint you bought, you may be able to add lime which is a mold inhibitor due to its pH. If you can still return the paint, making your own milk paint (aka casein paint) at home is an option. Milk paint has the property of being a natural mold inhibitor if done correctly. Numerous recipes (and youtube videos) can be found online with a quick ...



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