Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

9

Pro: Quick TO PAINT. ONLY. Con: you have to mask everything, but EVERYTHING, you don't want covered in paint. Floors, windows, toilets, sinks, outlets, switches, lights, the works. Con: not good if you want more than one color, or yet more masking needed. Apartment complexes that paint everything white and replace the carpets (and nearly everything is ...


9

When I did my house, I used a sprayer. But everything was getting ripped out, floors, doors, trim and light fixtures. Masking was simple because of this and being able to do the entire house in about 8 hours of work over two days paid for the extra paint and sprayer. This was a coat of primer and 1 to 2 coats of paint. The 3 rooms I didn't spray was the ...


7

Normally, latex paint is water soluble while oil paint isn't, so trying to dissolve a drop of paint in water should give you an indication. Don't put water in the paint bucket; if it turns out to be oil base you'll ruin it.


6

As @Nick2253 commented, sanding between coats promotes better adhesion of the next coat. This occurs because a rougher surface has more area and "features" for the next coat to grab onto. That's why it's easier to scrape paint off of a smooth surface like glass than a relatively rough one like wood. Sanding also helps remove any bumps from dust that's ...


5

Ooh. this problem is one not easily answered without more info: Heat Blisters: Paint bubbles can show up pretty quickly, from within a few hours to a few days after application. The blisters are only in the top coat of paint and appear most often in oil-based paint. A quick rise in temperature, like sunlight shining directly on the newly painted wood, ...


5

No it is not safe. The plastic bag will most likely make it worse. I have seen just an open pile of rags (not bagged) smoldering in a jobsite waste can at the end of a work day. I removed them and set the pile in the yard just to be safe, it was a pile of ashes in the morning.


4

Try not to go too cheap - if you do this right you may save a lot on not having to sort out dehumidification off-grid, as I assume this is the same building, and if you fix the walls getting wet you won't need that, or at least not nearly as much of it. What dehumidification options don't require a lot of electricity? Unless you have a great desire to ...


4

I'd argue it's not worth taping in the first place. Learn to 'cut in' with a brush and you'll save yourself all sorts of headaches in the future. As for the advice, I have a hunch they don't mean literally tear off 1' sections of tapes, but apply it as-you-go foot by foot. Meaning, expose a foot of tape, rub it down good, expose more tape, rub that section ...


3

After staining give a coat of clear finish, sanding it with a fine sandpaper (400G) to remove any raised grain or any dust that may have settled onto the drying finish. This will give you a good base to add your paint and the sanded surface will give it good adhesion. Steel wool has its purpose, but I would not use it here. That's only my opinion. My ...


3

If the walls are in good condition that why would you even have to anticipate sanding? Prepare the surfaces by cleaning them well using a bucket of hot water and TSP (trisodium phosphate) cleaner. Make sure to wear protective rubber gloves. This will get years of dirt and gunk off the walls to make it a good place for new paint to adhere. The TSP will even ...


3

The previous owners of my house did this. Drywall compound will stick very well to wood paneling (please resist the urge to get "creative" with the texture...). Wallpaper, less so, and even if it sticks well, if the wallpaper ever started peeling off, it would take the top part of the wall with it. If you're going down this route, I would highly recommend ...


3

Priming and Painting Galvanized Metal, condensed from KILZ.com, other manufacturers also make specific paints and primers for galvanized metal. The galvanizing process, which is designed to prevent rust, leaves an oily film that can prevent coating adhesion. The zinc in galvanized metal can produce a milky “white rust” (which is common when it has ...


3

If you want the boards to look brand spanking new again, you will want to go with method one. I'd use a heat gun to do it, and not the harsh chemical strippers. Either method takes about as long as the other and the heat gun method is less toxic, and, you either already have a heat gun and don't need to spend money, or you'll buy one and have it for a long ...


3

There are just too many components to give you a definitive answer. Atlanta doesn't have extremely harsh conditions, so if your house had perfect surroundings the paint could last 50-100 years. Here are some factors: How well was the house painted. You ask if you should do a second coat. Yes. Basically if you have any paint "holes" were the first coat ...


3

This is not a DIY job. Mold can spread everywhere in a wood-framed house full of drywall. Call in the pros to estimate the source and extent of the infection. Simply killing the mold won't help if you don't find the moisture source that made it moldy in the first place. PSA to the world: stop building houses out of wood and drywall. Sheesh, what awful ...


2

I would strongly suggest the walls are primed and use a mold inhibitor behind the cabinetry, especially behind the sink cabinet and where the dishwasher will set. Raw drywall should be sealed before anything is installed against it in my opinion.


2

Imperfections are hard to see on a white wall. I learned that adding some tint to primer makes the imperfections obvious BEFORE you paint the whole wall, so they can be patched before finish painting. I add a little of the same paint I am going to use to the primer.


2

Altering the dry time (shorter or longer) is something I would generally not advise. As the water evaporates the paint cures. Altering the dry time interferes with this process. This can lead to bubbling, cracking or even the tint separating from the base. Now, are you going to run into problems for sure? Probably not, and if it works for you by all ...


2

Wirebrush the rust to remove it. Apply a primer designed to adhere to bare metal. (I'm fond of those which react chemically with rust to help finish the job of preparing the surface, but those are only available in dark colors as far as I know.) Then apply a paint compatible with that primer -- not all paints layer happily on top of each other; generally you ...


2

I'm not sure you'll find a product to seal stains without any VOCs, especially if you want an organic paint. The organic solvents in paint must evaporate to leave the coating on walls. The fact that they evaporate at room temperatures, by definition, means they are volatile, hence Volatile Organic Compound (VOC). The least harmful stain blocker my be a ...


2

This really depends on how the old wallpaper was installed, what type it was, if the walls were primed before and so on. Best case scenario (happens 10-15% of the time I have to redo walls) is that your walls were painted/primed, they didn't glob on glue, the glue has broken down due to age and you simply pull off wallpaper and paint. Good case scenario is ...


2

I have to question this.....Why do you even want to mess around with this? There are a few really good reasons that show that this makes no sense. 1) When you go to buy paint at your supplier (hardware store, big box or paint store) there is generally little or no difference in price of the paint whether you buy the straight white in the can or have it ...


2

Putting on paint with a roller adds a texture to the paint as you may have noticed. This is controllable to some extent by the choice of roller used. Cutting in around windows and ceiling corners almost always wants to be done before doing the roller work. (The professional painters I have seen painting at the place I work always do it that way too). After ...


2

Yes, you can paint plasterboard directly - it's usually just paper on the outside. (Moisture resisting plasterboard tends to have a foil on on side though, which probably won't take paint well). What paint you use will depend what finish (or colours) you want, but you're unlikely to have problems using either emulsion or undercoat and gloss (or matt or ...


2

Sprayers are capable of giving a very smooth finish very quickly. That is why you will often see professionals use sprayers when finishing trim, stairs and cabinets. The negatives of a sprayer would be the amount of prep time required to start painting. You have to tape and plastic EVERYTHING. Do not underestimate the amount of over and back spray you will ...


2

I've found it often depends on the quality of the dwelling. Most apartments I've lived in have flat paint through and through, since it's generally the cheapest and covers up poor mudding jobs because it doesn't reflect light. When I upgraded to a house, most of the living areas were still flat paint, but the bathrooms were finished in eggshell. The rule of ...


2

I don't know your location, but in most residential jobs I've worked on the US east coast the wall finish is flat latex for walls, semi-gloss latex for doors, trims, baseboards, etc.


2

You definitely need to sand the loose paint off before repainting. Otherwise your new coat will quickly begin peeling as well, since it would be relying on the already peeling paint underneath it for adhesion to the deck. There are actually disc sanders made specifically for the purpose of removing old flaking paint. Sanding will also help feather the edges ...


2

In general, it's the final layer that determines the amount of gloss in the finish. Adding another layer of matte should do it. However, another layer of stain will deepen the color. I presume from your wording that you are actually using an all in one stain and poly finish (minwax?)... That's the hazard with using those - everything needs the same number ...


2

You can use a natural sponge to make concrete like shadings. Use a light touch and dab the sponge. Turn the sponge often so you don't get a regular pattern. Practice first on some cardboard. You can start with either your darker shade or the lighter, see which you like the best. Go back over what you have done with a dry brush or rag to soften your work ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible