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3

This verges on "opinion based..." Brush width depends what you are working on - for wall corners, 2" is probably fine. On our last project, my assistant finally figured out that using an overly tiny brush on window muntins was slower, not faster or more precise, but for that job a 1/2-5/8" brush was "about right." I go for the long handled angled - how ...


2

It may make some cringe, and it is not for the faint of heart, but I would use an extension ladder of the proper height, placed on the stairs so the angle is good for climbing, one of these for either end of the long run of the stair, and place a walk board, a 2X10 or 2X12 (in the US), that is the main work surface. Access to it would be by another item ...


2

There are three ways: 1) Lean a ladder against the lower wall, put boards connecting it with an upper stair, and put a ladder on top of that. 2) Use a baker scaffold. Baker scaffolds can be set up with varying height legs. Then put a ladder on the baker scaffold. This is my recommended solution. 3) Use a 2 wheel edging paint pad that will allow you to ...


1

Once dry, brush marks will not go away without sanding...sorry. Once that is done though: When you paint any given space you should move precisely and quickly. So in this case when you cut out the space in your kitchen (brushing the edges) you should immediately (before the cut work dries) go over it with the roller and get the roller as close to the edge ...


1

Dark colors and metallics do not cover well as they do not have the pigment (titanium dioxide) that blocks out underlying colors . The use of high quality applicators (brushes and rollers) is critical for ensuring a high quality final finish. Buy a good paintbrush that will deliver an even coating application and you should see those brush marks disappear. ...


1

I'm not sure about the clay smell. I think the paint soaked in due to the porosity of the wall. I can't guarantee it will work, but you might check into concrete epoxy, sealer or stain, or try using a primer paint first and do more layers like you said due to the porosity. Epoxy is expensive and might not like the paint.


1

Advice I've generally heard is that to prevent warping, you should treat the back the same way you treat the front (so they absorb and release moisture in the same ways). If you're going to paint the outside, priming the back seems a Good Idea. (Of course cedar doesn't necessarily need to be painted; cedar shakes have often been allowed to weather to a ...


1

It is definitely better to prime the back of the siding before it is installed. It will keep moisture from being absorbed by the back of the siding, which could lead to warping.



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