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The primary difficulty you are facing is that virtually all paint is somewhat porous, water based paints generally more so than alkyd (so-called oil) based paints. It is complicated by the fact that the stain that has been added is also water based. While there are plasiticizers in water based paints used to make them more stain resistant, these only ...


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Rather than speculating, go grab a cheap lead test kit from the hardware store. Red and white lead, asbestos, carbon tetrachloride were all very popular and widely used things right up until they were not. Red primer on anything of that vintage has a strong potential to be lead-based.


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~20 years landlord experience, we learned to stop painting all the trim white and use poly. It looks nicer/more expensive and does not definitely need attention every time it's up for rent. Paint gets dirty, urethane just looks properly aged. Whatever it is, if it's made out of lumber, stain and urethane it.


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There is a product sold by Sherwin Williams its a solvent based spackleing its similar to joint compound but it bonds a lot better than Sheetroc mud and dries very hard very much like plaster.


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I like the picture where the stairs are designed as books, what you're suggesting will turn a staircase into a real feature. But you have to think about safety first before anything else. I'd install non-slip tread nosings as paints, coatings and tape will wear quickly.


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They sell spray-on-rubber-in-a-can now: Check that it adheres to wood first, but if it's primed properly, it should.


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If this were my wall I would: Scrape off all loose paint. Sand area with sanding block - heavy grit. Feather in joint compound. Do another coat. Sand area until flat. Prime beyond damaged area. Repaint.


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Rent wall-paper steamers to remove the wall paper. Unfortunately, the latex paint will make it harder. You need to find a way to allow the steam to penetrate the latex. Use a scraper to scrape the paint, but not through the paper, so you don't damage the underlying wall surface. I've used rasps, cheese graters, etc. Just be careful you don't damage the walls ...


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I asked a couple of sandblasters and they all told me that sandblasting off the paint would likely destroy the stucco in the process, so I would probably need a new brown coat and color coat after they were finished. In the end, the cheapest real stucco option (i.e. not just adding another layer pf paint) seemed to be to skip sandblasting and apply wire ...



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