Hot answers tagged paint
Don't try painting over mold. Use bleach to get rid of it first. Make sure the entire area is completely dry. Then use a special anti mold paint.
Enamel paints hold better, are MUCH harder than latex, and will stand up to a lot more abuse. You can also use harsher cleaning methods on them.
By what you're describing, I assume you have paint on the outer edges of the door and the inside of the door frame. Paint doesn't make a good lubricant. And the door may not have been fitted to have the clearance for a coat of paint, or three coats if its an older house. And then when its humid and the door expands a bit, the paint rubs catches against the ...
There actually is no difference between latex and acrylic paints because there is no latex in latex paints. Let me explain. All water based paints today are referred to as "latex", even though there is absolutely no latex rubber in the formula. Latex has become a generic label. The stain, water resistance and covering capabilities are achieved by using ...
Take off outlet face plates, unscrew light fixtures, etc. Tape over the outlets and switches. Bag the light fixtures. I've seen a lot of painted-over receptacles. There's no reason to do that, since it's so easy to do it right. I've seen edged-in face plates and light fixtures. Again, easy to do it right.
Latex paints won't bond properly to metal, it will flake, peel, and bubble off.
While you probably could, this wouldn't be a good way to try and match a color. It would likely effect the setting performance of the concrete and you'd never match the color of the paint. On top of everything else, it would be much more expensive than the alternatives - all you really need is the pigment and everything else that makes up the paint is ...
Find more twine or rope (looks like a natural sisal) that matches the "laces" on the shoes. Wrap the twine around the posts in a spiral until they are completely covered. You will probably need to glue the twine occasionally, and perhaps rough up the paint so the glue sticks. The twine in the picture looks like it is waxed. I would make sure to use ...
Kilz is not anti-mold paint. Once the source of the moisture has been corrected, go to your local Home Depot and buy Concrobium fungicide spray. It's all natural and an encapsulant. It comes in a spray bottle. Follow the directions. This will kill the mold as well as prevent new mold from growing. Once that is done you can cover the area with Zinnser Bulls ...
No two whites are the same. In fact, sometimes two tins of the same color from the same company can be different! This is why if you are painting large areas, it is best to blend the cans together.
Usually the second coat doesn't need tape because you don't need to get as close to the edge. But if you are going to, you'd want to re-mask for each coat. Otherwise the paint can seep under the masking tape while it's drying or it will pull non-masked paint off when you remove it.
The key to getting a good finish is preparation. Make sure that the surface you are painting is clean and dry, free from any loose flakes of old paint. Fill any cracks with a suitable filler and prime this before applying the colour. Sand the surface first, then wash and finally brush.
Those are very good questions you asked the contractor. The result of the paint job is unacceptable. Besides being unsightly, the paint job will not have the longevity you want or expect, as the bubbles will pop or split on their own, and form a nice little place to hold water against your siding. The bubbling is most likely due to painting on a damp ...
Don't wash brushes out between coats, and don't leave them sitting in thinner. Wrap them in a plastic ziploc bag. If they'll fit in the bag, then great. If not just bunch the bag around the handle and tighten a cable-tie around it.
You would usually caulk the gap between the baseboard and the wall. This is why I usually don't bother painting the trim before putting it up (unless I'm staining it). Usually I would prime the wall first, then put up the trim, putty/caulk, paint the trim, then finally paint the walls.
Keep a damp rag in your pocket for the odd drop here and there. Damp it with the right solvent for the type of paint you are using.
No, that is not normal, nor satisfactory, nor remotely professional. It probably occurred from excess moisture present before the paint was applied. The solution is more work than simply painting: The blistered paint needs to be stripped, the bare surface prepared thoroughly, including drying—which could be done in winter with a tent and heaters, ...
Remove the masking tape immediately after painting so that there's no time for the skin to form over the join between the tape and the painted surface. If the paint has already dried, use a craft knife and a straight edge or ruler to cut it along the edge of the tape.
For crisp lines: after taping, paint along the tape with the color that is under the tape and let it dry. Some will leak under the tape (which is ok, because it's the same color) and seal it. Then paint the new color.
I never had luck with chemicals... steamer & lots of elbow grease was the only thing that worked for us :-\
You will need to take off all the glue if you want a good finish. The paint will lift the glue, but unevenly, and mix with the paint. This will cause the paint to clump and not cover properly and all in all it will look terrible. I know because I did this in the first house I owned and had to wash the walls of the one room where I tried this several times ...
if you use one of those powerful floor sanders, be sure to use fine grit paper and go easy. Plywood can damage easily and those sanders are aggressive and designed for hardwood. A good 6 or 7 inch DA sander would be a good bet, especially around the edges. Be careful, don't tear up the plywood with a monster sander!!! lol. As far as paint, select a good ...
When you say you can see the brush marks, do you mean that they're actually irregularly surfaced? I mean - are we talking just a visual effect or an actual difference in the depth of the paint? If the latter, do a skim coat with lightweight joint compound and when it dries, either lightly sand OR smooth with a large, slightly damp sponge, then apply ...
Stains will usually come right through a new coat of paint. Did you prime it first? In my experience I've found that a good oil (or even better, shellac) based primer works best for keeping stains from bleeding through the paint.
A product called "Killz" is an anti mold paint. Might try spraying the area down with a bleach/water mixture (I believe the ratio of 1 part bleach to 10 parts water is sufficient). Spray it down and let it dry. The bleach should kill the mold off in a few days.
Mistakes are bound to happen, and yes you can touch it up with a very small crafting paintbursh (like the ones kids use for waterpainting). You will probably never notice. The best solution however, is to not use painters tape on corners and ceilings. Typically in professional painting, tape is not used. If you use a small 2" cutting paintbrush, and ...
Oil has a lot of advantages for other reasons. One is it looks better. Many of my customers have spent a lot of money on "high-end" latex paints, and once it was up and they saw another friend's house with oil, they still wanted the oil. Not all people obviously. But the solid heavy body feel is an issue. Another issue I run into is, being a painter, you ...
Lattice is really cheap stuff. It's probably easier to just get new lattice and rebuild the gate. Or, for a simple fix, get a wire stripper wheel for a power drill and take at it. Get as much off that comes off easily and then cover it all with quality primer. FYI, if a lot of the wood has been weathered for a while, it's going to be a chore to get primer ...
They make lead testing kits for this purpose. You should ensure that you understand the correct process and procedures for painting over lead paint and that you take the proper safety precautions. The EPA has a website with lots of information on this.
A can of paint will often indicate how much area it will cover. A general rule of thumb is 350 sq ft per gallon (as Shirlock mentions, use 250-300 sqft/gal for the first coat). Calculating the area of the walls and ceiling involves some basic math: multiply the length * width (or height) of the ceiling (or wall), then subtract any openings.
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