New answers tagged oven
I wouldn't expect it to be anything more than a resistive element so it shouldn't be polarized... but the maintenance manual is almost certainly available on the weB, free or for a small fee, so I'd suggest you check that.
One way I have fixed things like this is to form new tabs out of metal parts. Have the new tabs bend down inside the back side of the plastic bezel piece where you use a good two part epoxy to glue the metal part in place. For where the plastic tab may still be intact you can add a thinner metal piece and glue into place in the same manner to strengthen ...
I have an almost-as-old-as-yours Magic Chef oven, and the igniter and the oven light should work fine with the clock disconnected. Here's how to do it. unscrew the back panel to get to the clock. There will be two wires connecting to the clock: a white wire and a black wire that's daisy-chained to the light switch on the left side of the top panel. ...
As long as the ampacity of the existing 220VAC branch circuit is sufficient to support the new cooking equipment, you can do this, despite it not being called out explicitly as allowed for by the NEC. The closest cites I can find in the Code for this are 210.19(A)(3) Exception 1: Exception No.1: Conductors tapped from a 50-ampere branch circuit ...
No - the breaker has to be sized for the conductor it protects. Your 10 gauge conductors have to be treated as the separate conductors they are. If one of the 10 gauge wires downstream was damaged, it could overheat without tripping the breaker.
Steven - I am also in Vancouver, and just installed a new kitchen with permits and inspections. Yes, the gas range and hood can be on the same 15A circuit, as mine are. Just be sure that the oven is also gas, and does not have any electric broiler or electric self-clean. If the rating is under 12A you are fine. If you are splicing into an existing 15A ...
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