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17

Enamel paints are MUCH harder than latex and will stand up to a lot more abuse. You can also use harsher cleaning methods on them.


16

Latex paints won't bond properly to metal, it will flake, peel, and bubble off.


7

I think your best bet is to just paint over it/re-paint the wall. On exterior concrete/brick walls it is easy to power wash or sandblast it - the goal is to remove everything. However neither of these will work inside - aside from the mess they'd create, they'd probably take more then just the paint off your walls! You might find some chemicals to help ...


4

Steven's answer is pretty much the correct one. In the past, I've used the 3M magic eraser products. But that, like most chemical/mechanical removal ends up leaving a damaged area that looks just like the original graffiti. Your best bet is to repaint. When you do repaint, you can consider looking at anti graffiti coatings: ...


3

Probably both temperature and thinning are an issue, since you are at the extremes for both (very high temperature, and no thinning at all), but there are a LOT of ways to get orange peel, so eliminating it can be a trial and error process. It sounds to me like the solvent is evaporating before the paint can flow together on the cabinets. This is usually ...


3

If you don't want to strip the new paint off, you can sand it to smooth out the rough areas. Go over it with a 150 grit first, then go over it a second time with 220 or 340. You can use a sanding sponge to get into the tight details. Be sure to clean it well after sanding, completely dust free this time. If possible, pull the hinge pins and remove the ...


3

For getting paint off a door, I highly recommend using Citrus Strip. We tried it on our old wooden door and it worked great, taking off multiple layers of paint. It doesn't work as well under a lot of sun and heat, so I would recommend either taking the door off the hinges or erecting some sort of tarp to block the sun from hitting it directly. Then get a ...


3

When I use oil based products I use disposable pan liners so cleanup means let it dry-up and throw it away. To clean brushes I use a brush spinner to remove as much material as possible. I swish the brush in a container of mineral spirits and brush a piece of dry cardboard to get out some more of the urethane. Finally I soak the brush for a couple of days in ...


3

I personally would use it, presuming I'm going to top-coat it with exterior paint. Of course, the very designation of the primer as "interior" means that the manufacturer did not INTEND for you to use it outdoors. So you're taking a chance. But I'd do it and not give it another thought. What's the potential downside? Probably something like "If it ...


2

A stripper gel is worth a shot. Never tried myself. I'd definitely use a heavy duty respirator with that stuff. A big no way on the pressure washer ;). You might also try contoured sanding pads. I use these all the time. Sanding just sucks and takes devotion.. http://www.woodcraft.com/product/2005237/10568/large-contour-sanding-pads-6-piece.aspx ...


1

Latex paint should never be painted straight onto oil paint. In this case you'll need to remove as much of the new paint as possible. Then you can use a water based primer with an adhesive like Gripper from Glidden. There are other brands of course, but an adhesive based primer will stay on oil paint or other surfaces that water based latex paint would ...


1

I would sand all the baseboard that is peeling, wipe clean for sanding dust. Then prime it all, using a strong water based primer. Zinser 123 is good. Then re paint it using a water based paint that is 100% acrylic . Not just latex or vinyl latex. Make sure it's 100% acrylic and you'll have no problems.


1

This is all bad, I am sorry to say. This is the result of poor surface preparation (sanding) prior to the application of the paint that is peeling. There is no easy solution, you must remove all the peeling paint along with any that even might peel. Sanding with coarse paper (maybe a heat gun but be careful) is the likely solution. On top of that, you will ...


1

The problem you are having is not uncommon. It is a basement floor so im guessing below grade. There should have been a layer of 10 mil poly under the floor when it was poured but either way concrete leaches moisture. This is a contributor to your problem. IF you didnt thoroughly wash the floor (i mean powerwash) with a bleach based cleaner you will have a ...


1

As noted by others, water based strippers and water rinsing entails some risk for veneers. Since you are repainting, sand down almost to the cracks and then use a crack-binding primer, (Peel Stop Triple Thick, the new version will fill alligatored finish and bind the remaining finish) To avoid that 'sticky' surface feeling on a table (or any handled ...


1

I'm rather disappointed to find almost no useful information on how to remove a specific painting substance from a specific type of painted wall. That's surprising since graffiti is a widespread problem and I guess millions of people face it every year. The typical answer indeed seems to be "repaint and get over it" yet repainting would be a lot of hassle in ...


1

Chemicals are an effective way to remove it. However, damage to the original paint will happen. Power washing is also a very effective way to remove it but damage to the original paint will also occur. Unless you can find a remover that will only remove the type of paint the graffiti is done in you will end up having to repaint the wall.



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