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25

I'm surprised the dripping is that loud but there is a simple solution. Drop a some rope, such as heavy sash cord, down the drainpipe and attach top end in such a way that at least a couple of inches of the rope is sitting inside the gutter itself. The way this works is that the water will tend to run along the rope, which should ensure the water runs along ...


11

Make sure you have carpeting, or even area rugs. Get some furniture in the place. Then move up the walls with various artwork, preferably some kind of cloth or canvas. You'd be amazed at how much a hanging tapestry absorbs sound. The emptier the home, the more you'll hear echoes. Edit: I almost forgot, hang some curtains.


11

The number one reason for creaking floors, staircases and furniture is they are assembled using regular nails. The problem with regular nails is the following. When you put load onto any board in your assembled staircase the board bends slightly and this causes it to slightly pull the nails at the places where the board is connected to other parts. After ...


10

Part of the cause of this may be turbulent vs. laminar flow. A high temperature will have a lower viscosity, leading to a higher Reynolds number, which contributes to turbulent flow. Add in surface defects from mineral build up, and you've got enough turbulence to vibrate your pipes to 'banshee levels.'


9

During construction of multi-unit dwellings, we install homasote on top of the subfloor (in the unit above yours). In the ceiling, we will add a layer of insulation. And then before installing the drywall on the ceiling, we would install resilient channel that keeps the drywall from directly contacting the joists. Your options post construction are very ...


9

I lived about the same distance (maybe a bit more) from train tracks for several years. Most of the trains were commuter trains, with two freight trains daily mixed in. The biggest thing to remember is that you're going to tune them out to a large degree as commented above. The advantage with the mostly commuter train composition of traffic was that they ...


9

In California for highways and busy streets they build sound walls, which are actually just brick brick walls. They use solid bricks, not hollow bricks, and the walls end up looking like this: If you are a good arbitrator or debater, you might even make a good case to have the city, county or state build it for your neighborhood. Another alternative is ...


8

I guess you could try putting some thin foam or felt stick on pads on the inside of the door frame where the door contacts it. This should lower the sound of the wood to wood contact. If the knob hardware is also loud, try using some dry silicon spray lubricant on the moving parts and on the door hinges. Sleep well.....


8

Step 1: Prevent air transmission between the rooms. Sweeps for the door or a heavier door; look at the heating registers and windows; things like that. You're saying the sound is muffled, which implies the high frequencies aren't making it in, so I don't think this is the major problem. Step 2: Damp the transmitted vibration. Put big heavy bookcases on the ...


8

I think you need to increase the angle of the vertical piece just slightly so the drips can't fall the entire length of the spout and then hit the angle portion at the bottom; instead they will silently wet themselves to the side of the spout and then roll down. Detach the bottom end from the house and play with the angle while you have a slow trickling ...


6

You might want to drill a test hole in the wall to see if it's insulated, if not some blown in cellulose or expandable foam insulation should help. It's a bit of labor but a cheaper solution than tearing down drywall. If you eventually want to go with the full monty and tear down the drywall there is a product called QuietRock, it's similar to drywall and ...


5

The quality of speakers in your TV are quite limited because flat-screen TV's don't have enough room for proper speaker cabinets. As other answers suggest, the already reduced-quality sound is bouncing off the wall, which further reduces the quality by creating an echo. Definitely invest in some forward-facing speakers at a minimum. You may not have the ...


5

If the sound is reaching the other side of the office, it may be traveling along the ceiling. If there's another floor above the office, you probably don't have anything -- like insulation -- blocking sound waves from traveling along the joists and/or the spaces between them. Something to consider for blocking sound coming through the walls or ceilings ...


4

Here's a VERY simple solution. I've had this problem for over a year and it's been driving me crazy. I finally found an incredibly simple solution, and it's especially good because I'm in an apartment where I'm not supposed to be "fixing" anything anyway. Take a scrap piece of wood and wedge it between the building and the pipe at or slightly above the ...


3

A friend at work told me this one: Buy a roll or two of clear double-sided tape and put it on the bottom of the door and the bottom of the door frame. When the cats scratch at it, their paws get stuck/sticky (they don't like this at all) and they'll soon learn not to scratch at the door.


3

With newer, flat-screen TVs, there isn't much room for speakers. As a result, the sound from the build-in speakers is generally pretty poor - a very limited range, with no lows and limited highs. I believe that the problem is not directly due to room acoustics, but rather due to the quality of the sound coming from the TV. Even an inexpensive speaker bar, ...


3

@BMitch has the right idea with furnishings and fabrics - it's the simplest, fastest and cheapest. Also, you can add soundproofing in other ways. Have a look at this question on soundproofing a large wall this one on ceilings and this one which has some good discussion on acoustic damping materials.


3

The first thing to check is if the fan unit is properly and firmly mounted in the ceiling and that the actual motor/fan portion is tightly secured in the housing. If the vibration is being caused because the fan is unbalanced or the bearings are worn, there is probably not much you can do for it. New fan units are not that expensive and are much quieter than ...


3

I actually agree with @sharptooth's answer and I think it's overall a better solution, but thought of this as well (I've never tried it): What possibly could work is to use some expanding foam, and use it along the bottom of all stairs against all the joints (so all the inside corners under each stair, really). You'd need to use the high-expanding foam ...


3

Your neighbour must be hearing it as well then, correct? Can you hear it from outside? First culprits I would look at: furnace fan or forced exhaust fan forced exhaust fan of a high-efficiency gas water heater HRV unit attic fan bathroom fan Ideally you or your neighbour could stand in his/her utility room while the sound is happening, and hopefully ...


3

Well, you aren't SOL... but post construction soundproofing slims your options you can buy your loud-walker friend some thick slippers. If you have hardwood floors in your room, put down some thick carpet. Take your neighbor shopping for thick rugs he can put on his floor directly above yours. Cut small holes in the drywall near the ceiling, between the ...


2

I recently installed the third gutter system on my house in 40 years. The dripping sound was maddening! Having had two others, I knew that it was this particular downspout. When I filled the gutter with water, I found a leak at the top of the downspout, where the water starts down from the gutter . The water was leaking out there and dripping down on the ...


2

What kind of floors are above? What kind of noise is it? Some options other than the proper 'install proper acoustically separated ceiling' solution B Mitch suggests would be to maybe get the landlord to upgrade the tenant's floor above. Maybe new carpet with a thicker carpet pad? Or, turn your bedroom into a day room and invest in a really nice ...


2

Before you tear up the floors, which is messy and expensive, how bout getting an area rug (they can be cheap at Target, etc.)? If the area rug works, then you know the problem. My concern is that the frame of the building is such that the noise is not related to the type of floor material. The sound may be transferred through the joists and walls.


1

I would try the same things that fix a squeaky wooden bed; paraffin, beeswax, and/or tightening screws/adding screws. The down side is for it to work best, you will obviously want the lube between the stringers/frame and the stair treads, so that may mean taking them off, or at least separating them some.


1

This is the sound of metal pipes and radiator components expanding and contracting. As they do so, they rub against other fixed parts, like wood framing, brackets, etc. If they stick slightly, you'll hear a popping or clicking sound as they stick and unstick from the friction against this expansion and contraction. So the solution is to locate any points ...


1

You mention "inline with exhaust pipe" which makes me want to ask if it is an inline fan. That type of fan is installed anywhere along the exhaust path route, rather than being mounted on the bathroom ceiling. Those are the quietest you can get, since they are attached to remote structure, and can be installed some distance from the bathroom. If you don't ...


1

I lived in Southern Calif. in the '70s, I'm pretty sure there was no STC standard for multi-family residences at the time. The only requirement was for certain party walls to be fire rated, and not necessarily every party wall. There are publications available that show the STC ratings for various constructed assemblies. You can find an assembly that is ...



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