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8

There are two types of tubing most people think of, when you say "flexible gas tubing". The first and more common, are flexible gas connectors. These guys are typically 3-6' long, and are used to connect appliances to the gas piping. They are only to be used as a short link between the fixed piping and the appliance, and so are considered a "connector" ...


6

Yes, it is a typical for the gas stovetops to light all of the burners even when only one is needed. Note that this applies to stovetops that do not have a standing pilot light. The oven often will have its own ignitor that operates independently of the stopetop. The reason for this may be in order to reduce the complexity of the stovetop design. With all ...


5

I've checked the National Electrical Code and there are no specific references to receptacles installed near any type of fireplace. Your biggest concern is likely the heat produced by the fire, but that's a concern for the ampacity of the wires, and has nothing to do with the receptacle. Also, like all receptacles newly installed today, the receptacle would ...


5

You can tell very quickly if the outlet is at all special by shutting off power to the outlet, removing it, and inspecting it. It seems rather unlikely to me that the outlet would be special since it's not near water, and it's supplying power for a blower. Other than making sure you've got proper amperage rating, I wouldn't think there would be any ...


5

Why did they turn off the gas? To do some work? If that is the case then there is probably air in the line. The pilot orifice is small compared to the burners which means it will take longer for the air to "bleed out". Alternatively, there may be a button somewhere that you have to hold down (to get the gas flowing to the pilots) in order to light the ...


5

If the pressure you're measuring is the static pressure, that is the pressure in the line with no gas flowing, that pressure is the same everywhere in the line. You cannot increase that pressure by removing unneeded gas pipe. Instead, you can try having the gas company adjust or replace your regulator. If you're measuring the pressure while gas is flowing, ...


4

I have installed a couple of gas fireplaces. Both came with instructions to operate the fireplace on high for at least five hours in order to off-gas the unit. This should have been done before you moved in. Now you are the canary in the coal mine! As far as the possibility that the unit was installed incorrectly, I am going to reiterate Michael Karas' ...


4

This does NOT sound at all like a normal situation. Either your gas fireplace has a serious flaw or the unit is vented incorrectly. I would stop lighting it and immediately get a professional in to look at it. At the same time you should use every avenue at your disposal to get the builder, contractor, and gas fireplace installer on the hook to look at this ...


4

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4

The thermopile in your fireplace puts out millivolts, nothing near the 120V the light switch was designed for. It's probably just a matter of finding a switch with a low enough on resistance. A generic low voltage switch from a electronics store, or ripped out of a toy, would probably do it (for example a 12V SPST). Really here the smaller the better, but ...


3

Turned out to be the High Limit switch. The switch had burnt out, which caused the burner not to fire. Turns out when the limit switch senses the heat box is too hot, it shuts down the gas and forces the blower to continue so it will clear the excess heat. When the switch failed it always told the system that the furnace was over heated, so the burner ...


3

My guess is that something in the gas supply line of the heater is whistling (a vibration is being induced from the flow of gas). This could indicate a blockage or deformation of one or more of the gas jets. It's unlikely to be any problem with the exhaust flue or with the water in the tank, as you say. The other thing it might be, depending on the tank's ...


3

You basically would build a bulkhead to contain this. Any enclosed gas pipe/water/electric should be built with a wall that meets code This means the bulkhead should be framed out like a mini wall. Floor plate, top plate, wall plate, joists and studs 16" O/C. Frame it out affixed firmly to the wall (anchoring the wall plate in the studs) and glue down or ...


2

I installed a new gas Infinite fireplace this week. The tech gave me a operating walk-through, and said to open the windows, place a fan close to it, and run it steady for 5 hours, to burn everything off. Today, it's been running about 2 hours, and the fumes are gone, and the smell is diminishing.


2

It is (very) surprising that the gas company (Xcel) says "everything's fine." This document from a different gas company certainly calls out non-blue flames as an issue that needs to be resolved. As does this site. And Xcel themselves. Happening on all appliances does seem a bit less likely to be "and suddenly the air adjustments on all three went whacky" ...


2

There are a couple things that you might want to consider International Fuel Gas Code 2012 Chapter 4 - Gas Piping Installations Section 411 - Appliance and Manufactured Home Connections 411.1.2 Protection against damage. Connectors and tubing shall be installed so as to be protected against physical damage. 411.1.3.1 Maximum length. ...


2

The International Fuel Gas Code does not mention any line routing requirements. (See section 613.) If it were me, I would fasten some wood blocking to protect the gas line from being pinched by the dryer should it walk or be moved. It should probably go along the right edge of the nook, especially at the front, and at the front of the right side of the ...


2

Gads, what a mess that must have been! Cleaning the igniter and flame sensor certainly could not make the situation worse—well, unless it is done with brutal force. Also, check the alignment of the igniter. Perhaps it shifted during whatever was done during the fire. It is also likely some of the gas burner holes are clogged. Inspect carefully and ...


2

Cleaning is always a good idea after a mishap like this, but if it does not immediately fix the problem, you should call in a professional repair service. A fire in an appliance, especially a gas fed appliance, needs a pro to ensure that the unit is still safe to operate. Many plastics can form a pretty solid mess when melted onto metal. It may be difficult ...


1

Originally (back in the old days), they (like gas grills) used volcanic rock aka lava rock. Several current vendors use a mixture of rockwool fiber material and vermiculite. Others list sand and vermiculite. Having them on the bottom helps diffuse the gas (by scattering the gas as it rises, so you don't see jets of gas). The glowing aspects is a nice ...


1

That should do the trick for a start. You will smell gas when you disassemble the pipe and should dissipate. On the jobsite, when this is done, the longer pipe section is removed from the valve on the fed side (fireplace side) of the pipe and capped with a threaded plug with the proper tape sealant or pipe dope approved for gas fittings. A nipple and cap can ...


1

Most likely the contractor will route the line through the basement or crawlspace, and emerge from the back of the house near where the outlet will be. Snaking around the outside of the house (even underground), is more difficult, and may make the pipe more susceptible to damage. If the piping has to travel any significant distance from the house to the ...


1

Thermal switches (depending on models) can be really tricky. If yours is really causing the problem I would suggest replacing it. However, before replacing the switch, ensure you have proper airflow into the combustion area. (Not much stacked around unit, any insulation properly installed, etc.) This really sounds like more of an air flow issue.


1

It is far simpler to build a single ignition system which is activated by every burner control knob (which are trivially wired in parallel) and has only one output which is routed to all sparkers. An already lit burner receiving sparks is no problem. But having 4+ ignition systems—or switching logic and electronics to accomplish the same ...


1

The solenoid will require a certain voltage range from the thermocouple in order to operate. If the thermocouple fails to produce that voltage range, then yes it could be considered partially "broken". You can probably find the expected output in the service manual and test it with a multi-meter in order to rule this in or out. It could also be an issue ...


1

There are a few things that can happen when a gas line is shut off for maintenance, that might cause a pilot not to relight when the gas is turned back on. Air in the line If the pipe is cut; and/or replaced, there can be air in the line. To remedy this, you'll simply have to bleed off the air by opening a valve until all the air is released. Junk in the ...


1

Check the pressure valve - we have been having this exact problem; my father took one of the hoses off of one of the pressure valves (mine has 2) - blew into it to clear a blockage and it worked fine again. Last week when this first happened, the technician did the same thing, so blowing on the hose looks like a temporary fix (although they blamed it on the ...


1

We looked at this for a commercial unit in our church, and the consensus was to just buy two residential-class stoves with electronic ignition rather than pay for the retrofit. It was that costly. I would imagine that residential stoves, which aren't designed to be messed around with much, would have a similar problem; you're basically replacing everything ...


1

I'm in the same boat. One helpful resource I found was this: http://www.energykinetics.com/savingsHeatingFuelComparisons.shtml It gives you the various conversions of units based on BTUs. If your gas is measured in therms, you can convert the number of gallons of oil to therms by multiplying them by 0.721. There is also ...



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