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8

There are two types of tubing most people think of, when you say "flexible gas tubing". The first and more common, are flexible gas connectors. These guys are typically 3-6' long, and are used to connect appliances to the gas piping. They are only to be used as a short link between the fixed piping and the appliance, and so are considered a "connector" ...


6

Yes, it is a typical for the gas stovetops to light all of the burners even when only one is needed. Note that this applies to stovetops that do not have a standing pilot light. The oven often will have its own ignitor that operates independently of the stopetop. The reason for this may be in order to reduce the complexity of the stovetop design. With all ...


5

instead of sizing your current boiler, i would instead have a heating professional visit your home and calculate the heating requirements of your home from scratch.


5

Why did they turn off the gas? To do some work? If that is the case then there is probably air in the line. The pilot orifice is small compared to the burners which means it will take longer for the air to "bleed out". Alternatively, there may be a button somewhere that you have to hold down (to get the gas flowing to the pilots) in order to light the ...


5

If the pressure you're measuring is the static pressure, that is the pressure in the line with no gas flowing, that pressure is the same everywhere in the line. You cannot increase that pressure by removing unneeded gas pipe. Instead, you can try having the gas company adjust or replace your regulator. If you're measuring the pressure while gas is flowing, ...


5

I've checked the National Electrical Code and there are no specific references to receptacles installed near any type of fireplace. Your biggest concern is likely the heat produced by the fire, but that's a concern for the ampacity of the wires, and has nothing to do with the receptacle. Also, like all receptacles newly installed today, the receptacle would ...


5

You can tell very quickly if the outlet is at all special by shutting off power to the outlet, removing it, and inspecting it. It seems rather unlikely to me that the outlet would be special since it's not near water, and it's supplying power for a blower. Other than making sure you've got proper amperage rating, I wouldn't think there would be any ...


4

I have installed a couple of gas fireplaces. Both came with instructions to operate the fireplace on high for at least five hours in order to off-gas the unit. This should have been done before you moved in. Now you are the canary in the coal mine! As far as the possibility that the unit was installed incorrectly, I am going to reiterate Michael Karas' ...


4

This does NOT sound at all like a normal situation. Either your gas fireplace has a serious flaw or the unit is vented incorrectly. I would stop lighting it and immediately get a professional in to look at it. At the same time you should use every avenue at your disposal to get the builder, contractor, and gas fireplace installer on the hook to look at this ...


4

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4

The thermopile in your fireplace puts out millivolts, nothing near the 120V the light switch was designed for. It's probably just a matter of finding a switch with a low enough on resistance. A generic low voltage switch from a electronics store, or ripped out of a toy, would probably do it (for example a 12V SPST). Really here the smaller the better, but ...


3

You basically would build a bulkhead to contain this. Any enclosed gas pipe/water/electric should be built with a wall that meets code This means the bulkhead should be framed out like a mini wall. Floor plate, top plate, wall plate, joists and studs 16" O/C. Frame it out affixed firmly to the wall (anchoring the wall plate in the studs) and glue down or ...


3

My guess is that something in the gas supply line of the heater is whistling (a vibration is being induced from the flow of gas). This could indicate a blockage or deformation of one or more of the gas jets. It's unlikely to be any problem with the exhaust flue or with the water in the tank, as you say. The other thing it might be, depending on the tank's ...


3

Turned out to be the High Limit switch. The switch had burnt out, which caused the burner not to fire. Turns out when the limit switch senses the heat box is too hot, it shuts down the gas and forces the blower to continue so it will clear the excess heat. When the switch failed it always told the system that the furnace was over heated, so the burner ...


3

The electrical ground to the water pipe is required and not a hack. It is supposed to be connected as close to the supply side as practical, preferably upstream of any cutoff valves. There should also be an electrical ground connection to your gas line if any of the gas lines inside the house are conductive, like black pipe. When I set out to install the ...


2

I installed a new gas Infinite fireplace this week. The tech gave me a operating walk-through, and said to open the windows, place a fan close to it, and run it steady for 5 hours, to burn everything off. Today, it's been running about 2 hours, and the fumes are gone, and the smell is diminishing.


2

There are a couple things that you might want to consider International Fuel Gas Code 2012 Chapter 4 - Gas Piping Installations Section 411 - Appliance and Manufactured Home Connections 411.1.2 Protection against damage. Connectors and tubing shall be installed so as to be protected against physical damage. 411.1.3.1 Maximum length. ...


2

The International Fuel Gas Code does not mention any line routing requirements. (See section 613.) If it were me, I would fasten some wood blocking to protect the gas line from being pinched by the dryer should it walk or be moved. It should probably go along the right edge of the nook, especially at the front, and at the front of the right side of the ...


2

Gads, what a mess that must have been! Cleaning the igniter and flame sensor certainly could not make the situation worse—well, unless it is done with brutal force. Also, check the alignment of the igniter. Perhaps it shifted during whatever was done during the fire. It is also likely some of the gas burner holes are clogged. Inspect carefully and ...


2

Cleaning is always a good idea after a mishap like this, but if it does not immediately fix the problem, you should call in a professional repair service. A fire in an appliance, especially a gas fed appliance, needs a pro to ensure that the unit is still safe to operate. Many plastics can form a pretty solid mess when melted onto metal. It may be difficult ...


2

It is (very) surprising that the gas company (Xcel) says "everything's fine." This document from a different gas company certainly calls out non-blue flames as an issue that needs to be resolved. As does this site. And Xcel themselves. Happening on all appliances does seem a bit less likely to be "and suddenly the air adjustments on all three went whacky" ...


2

You have used the wrong type of teflon tape - for gas the thicker yellow teflon tape should be used. Another option which many prefer is to use a pipe sealant like RectorSeal. If after replacing the white teflon the smell persists I would check the other end of the gas line. It's possible that when removing the old gas line an existing fitting was ...


2

There is no electric code prohibiting this, and I don't think there's any gas codes on this either. Main thing is to be 100% certain you are clear of any buried lines/pipes.


1

It is far simpler to build a single ignition system which is activated by every burner control knob (which are trivially wired in parallel) and has only one output which is routed to all sparkers. An already lit burner receiving sparks is no problem. But having 4+ ignition systems—or switching logic and electronics to accomplish the same ...


1

Originally (back in the old days), they (like gas grills) used volcanic rock aka lava rock. Several current vendors use a mixture of rockwool fiber material and vermiculite. Others list sand and vermiculite. Having them on the bottom helps diffuse the gas (by scattering the gas as it rises, so you don't see jets of gas). The glowing aspects is a nice ...


1

That should do the trick for a start. You will smell gas when you disassemble the pipe and should dissipate. On the jobsite, when this is done, the longer pipe section is removed from the valve on the fed side (fireplace side) of the pipe and capped with a threaded plug with the proper tape sealant or pipe dope approved for gas fittings. A nipple and cap can ...


1

Most likely the contractor will route the line through the basement or crawlspace, and emerge from the back of the house near where the outlet will be. Snaking around the outside of the house (even underground), is more difficult, and may make the pipe more susceptible to damage. If the piping has to travel any significant distance from the house to the ...


1

Thermal switches (depending on models) can be really tricky. If yours is really causing the problem I would suggest replacing it. However, before replacing the switch, ensure you have proper airflow into the combustion area. (Not much stacked around unit, any insulation properly installed, etc.) This really sounds like more of an air flow issue.


1

Just use usual common sense, you know the properties of natural gas. Always use 2 tools when loosening or tightening fittings or connections. Do not re-use any lines that have a flare type end. Try to keep adapters like reducers or gender-changers to a minimum.


1

The conversion kit usually consists of a different sized orifice to handle the LP fuel. I had to do this on my outdoor grill when I converted from LP to NG.



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