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12

Typically, drywall sheets hung horizontally are hung with the upper full sheet first against the ceiling, cut bottom sheet last. This is so you will have an indent at the top to tape and mud. Unless your wall is exactly 8 feet tall, the cut of the bottom sheet is at the floor, thus no indent. Even if you have an indent at the very bottom against the floor, ...


6

Actually, @Edwin gave you a good answer. I'll add a bit to it. The bubbles are usually from not mixing the mud well enough or not applying it with enough pressure. It is not unusual to see lots of small bubbles on the first coat. The second coat is going to be thinner and applied with a bit more pressure and wider knife or trowel than the first. Here's a ...


5

You will need to smooth it out by applying increasingly wide applications of drywall mud; depending on how rough it is it might take 2-3 coats. You would then sand it smooth, prime and repaint the entire surface. Unless the drywall is water damaged or has significant physical damage (doesn't look like the case), you will not have to cut out anything. On ...


4

There have got to be many ways to minimize the bubbles. These kind of problems you deal with when finishing drywall require a certain amount of skill that, for me, comes only with experience. That said, I have a few ideas: Add a little bit of water. The further along in the finishing process, the thinner the compound should be. Mix well, even if you add ...


4

Paint will only cover up VERY minor imperfections, like pinholes in a wall (and even then, if it's a big pinhole, it may still show through). If texturing didn't cover it, paint (which is MUCH thinner) definitely won't.


2

Personally I would not lose a lot of sleep over this. The molding will probably cover it up. If not have the contractor make the necessary adjustments. Tape would still be needed for the seam that is above the door that we can't see in the pictures. Do you feel that part of the seam was properly done? There is also an indentation on the edge of wall ...


2

I've done this on one room- taking a knock-down texture and skim coating it to make it smooth. The downside is that you then are able to see every wave, bump, and bobble that the drywall installers didn't bother fixing because they knew it would be hidden by texture. ;) I was able to get by with one coat and one sanding, but I was also applying a ...


2

If this is for a small home project stop with trying to mix drywall compound yourself and purchase the premixed material in the plastic bucket.


1

From a diy'er who has made a mess of a lot of walls by trial and error, here is a hint. A cream consistency of 'mud' works for pros who mix and move the stuff fast with a lot of experience and a deft swirl of the wrist. For the rest of is it needs to be pretty thin, just thick enough to stay on the trowel, even if it drips a bit on to the drop cloth. Spread ...


1

You need to get a wire brush and scratch the hell out of your wall in the bad area and a little outside of it. Add mud to flatten area. Let it dry. Scrape any high areas (with mud knife). Add a big layer of mud for a second coat. Scrape then thoroughly sand. You are going to have to prime and paint the area. If you just slightly prime the already ...


1

You are getting these because the compound going on is too thick. My drywall guys start with a small bucket of powder and water and mix to the consistency of pancake syrup and then add the premixed stuff in. Basically to the point where it barely doesn't drive you nuts. It will make a mess no doubt because you will have drop everywhere. But this allows ...


1

If there are bulges, it will be much better if you dig them out to below the average level of the wall or ceiling; that way you will likely have less to fill. If you have to dig out more than an inch deep, you will have to fill first with something solid, like a piece of wood screwed into whatever is available below surface. Then you can start filling in no ...


1

The ceiling looks to have paper tape under the mud, which is normally only used in corner joints. For a quicker turn around, and more satisfying finish - it would probably be best to scrape all of the tape and mud from this repair off, then re-tape the joints using fiberglass tape. After the initial coat on each of the seams, treat the entire space as one ...



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