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2

What you want is a infrared (IR) repeater. They sell them at most electronic stores and online. For your setup you might need to go with a wireless version. This is how they work. Near the TV you will put a small sensor to pickup the remote signals. The sensor will then transmit those signals via wire (or wireless) to an infrared light to repeat the ...


2

There are systems that mount various devices on the back of the TV either directly attached or by using the VESA plate. Some are device specific (eg. to support Apple Mac Mini) and some generic. Depending on what you need to support, you can also DIY the plate, they're not that hard to make. Alternatively you could run a long HDMI cable to wherever ...


2

Glue a strip (or two strips, to keep it parallel to the wall surface) of thicker wood to the back. Properly shaped (see ASCII art below for one version), that can BE your hanging hardware, or you can attach your hanging hardware to it. X X|| X is the plywood. This angle-cut bit of || X\| wood is attached to the plywood. \| X\\ ...


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One way to hang your thin plywood would be to acquire a strip of wood trim material that was say 3/4" wide by 1/4" thick by say 20" long. (The 20" length presumes you want to hang the piece with its 24" dimension horizontal). You would then glue this strip on the back side of the plywood with yellow carpenters glue. Clamp it into place or place heavy weights ...


1

I would consider using a "french cleat". This is a technique where you cut a board into two pieces using a 45 degree angle. I used this to mount some cabinets and they are incredibly strong. It just depends on whether you can adapt that to the shelf you have. Good luck.


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The blocks of wood your refering to serve two purposes, a resting place for the shelf above them and to provide a sturdy place for you to screw in the holders for the closet rod. I understand once you move your rod up and install another one lower you probably won't use a shelf but I still recommend using the blocks of wood. Sure you could screw directly ...


0

I guarantee the walls are not parallel but you may not notice it. Point is being off a 1/4" or so in any direction for something like that is not going to be a problem. Just measure up, and measure over from the nearest wall on each side. Probably be more accurate that way than a level if you are not used to using a level. We'd just shoot our laser on it ...


2

Why not buy the pipe, and make the marks based on that. That is, have a level, hold the pipe up and level it, then mark where it touches the wall. A friend would help, so might hanging or otherwise supporting the pipe from either above or below as you do this.


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I'd either try to drill out the head of the bolt (hopefully, it's a cheapie and not hardened) or set a hacksaw in the gap and spin the bolt with a drill. Both approaches create metal shavings that you really don't want inside the TV, so tape off any ventilation holes and have someone standing beside you with a vacuum cleaner. Be sure to have the person with ...


3

Is there a tiny bit of space between the bracket and the tv? If so I'd use a hacksaw to cut through the screw and remove the bracket. If space is really tight, try removing the blade and using it with your hands. After that, you'll have to see what you are working with. If you are lucky, maybe you can get some epoxy or glue around the bolt inside of the ...


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In the ideal world where people are responsible for their actions: "Hello handyman - please come collect your TV and drop off the payment for my TV, which you just bought since you broke it." In the actual world where the handyman will probably deny responsibility you have to grind the head off the bolt (being careful not to allow the grinding dust/sparks ...



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