Tag Info

Hot answers tagged

16

Your TV is being supported by two pieces of paper. That should be all you need to know. The white plaster material in the middle of drywall resists compression. The interaction between the shaft of the bolts and the inner plaster is keeping the load from shearing straight down the wall and will support a significant load. However, on the front and back of ...


13

Gypsum board (drywall, plasterboard, wallboard) is not a structural material, its only purposes are to prevent you from seeing into the next room and to conceal utility lines and structural members within the wall. Drywall anchors are great for hanging small picture frames, little decorative shelves, and other similar knickknacks, they are not for hanging ...


11

I would not risk hanging a glass shelf with those strips. They are meant for hanging things directly from (like a towel, hair dryer, etc.), not a shelf that sticks out. Instead of just pulling down on the strip, it will pull down and away, almost a guaranteed recipe for broken glass. Unfortunately there is no way to anchor something to the wall without ...


9

Metal studs are great for framing walls. They are super light, easy to work with, straight. But you've discovered one drawback...they don't have nearly the strength of a wooden 2x4 for mounting things to it. Metal studs DO come in different guages, though. The heavier, the better, but it sounds like yours are fairly light-weight. Some options: take down ...


8

If you have a wall, you have structure. If your wall is masonry then the TV mount can likely be mounted directly to the masonry (or mounts are available which can). If your wall is drywall then you must have structure behind it... perhaps your studfinder is malfunctioning or you're using it improperly? Studs can usually be found beside original electrical ...


8

TV wall mounts should always be mounted directly onto studs if the total weight is that much. If all mounting screws are going into studs, the drywall thickness is irrelevant. Drywall anchors are a great invention, but not suited for the kinds of load and forces a swivel wall mount exerts. If you can't mount the wall mount onto studs for some reason (like, ...


7

Depending upon how large the grout lines are I would carefully drill through those with a masonry bit, and then use plastic anchors and fasten shelf brackets with screws. Use enough brackets to support the size shelf you need. Then, if the shelf ever needs to come down the holes in the grout lines can be repaired easily.


6

NEC 725.55 does not allow you to run class 1 cable in the same raceway as class 2 & class 3 cable, so you'll have to run a new power cable outside of the PVC conduit that holds the audio/video cables. The best way to accomplish this (if you still want to use your SmartStrip), is to use one of these guys. You'll install one hookup behind the media ...


6

If photos 6/7 are indicating you have some kind of dropped ceiling, then you definitely cannot attach this to the dropped ceiling. It won't support any load. Best option in that case is to build a free standing structure and hang your bag on that. A couple of A frames and a beam going across the top where you'd attach the bag would be easy to build. Use a ...


6

The screw you're showing is a self-tapping metal screw. It's designed to cut it's own channel into metal and grab hold by cutting it's own threads - but it's not meant for repeated uses because repeat uses can damage it's own threads, making its hole too big for it. Take it to the local hardware store and get one that is slightly wider in diameter, and use ...


6

This should be OK, but I would recommend attaching the 2x4s to studs on both sides of the TV, not just the right side as you've shown. You don't want the weight of the TV to pull the 2x4s away from the wall on the left side. A 55" TV is going to be heavy and the eccentricity caused by the spacing of the wood and the bracket will cause it to pull away. ...


6

Your task is to find the studs.. Electronic versions of stud finders abound, plaster is difficult for most of them. I have a 1/2 dozen of them.. I keep hoping. The problem with plaster is the lath used to support it. The lath can be a variety of materials: wood strips, metal mesh and even pasterboard. All of these materials are attached to the studs ...


5

looks like it needs bolts with very large rubber washers/gromets. even then i'd be afraid that the weight of the sink would just crack the mounting holes. the mounting holes you've got are 300mm apart, exactly as stud distance. use a stud finder. i have a hanging sink but it came with hardware: two vertical metal straps that you attach to the studs, the ...


5

They make many different types of wall anchors. I have used different forms of E-Z Anchors for years and am happy with them. They hold up to 100 pounds in sheetrock with their toggle lock anchors. 1 of the normal screw anchors can hold 25 pounds in half inch rock. I am sure those brackets have more than one mounting hole? Place on the wall where you ...


5

Step 1: Go to Home Depot or Lowes and raid the paint department for paint cards that look similar to the color of your bathroom wall. Step 2: Take the cards home and hold them up to the wall one at a time. You may want to get a friend to stand outside the room or get as far away as possible and view the card from multiple angles. Turn the lights on and off, ...


5

the thickness of a single sheet of drywall Did they happen to specify how thick that single sheet should be? I bet that they didn't and are being over protective, because they sell drywall in varying thicknesses from 1/8" up to 5/8". But I don't think they're being TOO over protective, because I think that's the exact same mount I used, and it mounts ...


5

As Legion600 suggested, you probably have steel studs as furring strips. You need to be sure you are not hitting protection plates installed on wood studs. These protect electrical or plumbing lines close to the stud face, and you must never attempt to drill through these. Usually, if you drill several inches above or below such plates, you will hit wood. ...


4

Are you able in the garage attic? If so you can use the existing junction box and run a wire from it to a new receptacle box where you need it. Or two boxes for another receptacle and another light later. If your garage is unfinished then it will be even easier. If you cannot get to the attic you can use surface mount raceway. The raceway comes in 5 ...


4

With out any design sketch, a good way to bond wood to concrete is using threaded anchors or threaded inserts The dificutl part is placing these inside the concrete column, to be level and not get dirty from concrete. So using a fairly large size, so its easier to clean later, and easier to screw into. Basically you would then insert a metal shaft in ...


4

If the speakers are reasonably small, there are small mountings used to hang mirrors and paintings, that you could screw onto the back of the speakers. Something like these:


4

I can't find any sort of moldable "adhesive putty" that isn't in the same basic class of product as poster tack. Products like rubber cement, which are generally removable from most surfaces without damage (not much anyway), stay pliable but not moldable after they cure, and almost anything else stronger than that should be considered permanent, as it will ...


4

Checking with my engineer-minded girlfriend, we've got too many questions to be able to answer this. The concrete, which is intended to support a dead load, may not be able to support the moment loads that you're planning to put on it. Without having a structural diagram for the entire building and detail on what the beams are intended to do (such as -- are ...


4

Try searching for "utility pole standoff bracket" and you'll find things like this Garvin bracket. Also check if the Band-It Company has something you can use.


4

If your house is old enough to have horsehair plaster it is possible that there are no studs between the chimney and the plaster. I know mine did not. I was hesitant to use masonary anchors because of the age and condition of the brick. I fiqure I had two options. I could widen the mantle and sit the TV on it. The other option was to build a plywood panel ...


4

Keep pressure on the screw while you unscrew it. It will force the plug to unfold, making removal possible. Once the plug is fully unfolded, the screw will come out no matter how much pressure you keep on it. If for whatever reason that fails to extract the plug, you can usually do less damage by pushing the plug it into the wall versus trying to pull it ...


3

If the studs don't line up with the mounting holes you'll have to open the wall and install blocking between the studs.You might not have to open the entire wall just a section big enough to install the blocking. I would use a 2x6 double thick. Using a combo wood/machine screw will make bolting the sink to the wall easier. This hardware has a lagbolt thread ...


3

Depending on the size of the pole, you might be able to use a chimney mount, which is straps that go around a solid object, or possibly a wall mount type if you can screw into the pole. ChannelMaster sells a variety of mounts, but you can also find some at your friendly local Radio Shack, though the 2" requirement might be a problem, I think most of the ...


3

Best bet - call the dealer or find the manual. Chopping up something like this is a risky proposition without documentation (manuals) or a knowledgeable tech because while you may find something with a stud finder you have no way of cutting into it and making sure you are not cutting into wiring/plumbing/vents/etc. Unless you want to pull the entire wall or ...


3

If you check out a home theater/audio site like Parts Express, you'll find oodles of different ways to wall mount a speaker. For heavier speakers, I've used these guys in the past with excellent results. I think they're rated for 50lbs each. Plenty of adjustability and easy installation. I used heavy-duty drywall anchors to mount mine. Add some ...


3

This will only work if the new sink (including the lip that sits on the counter) is larger than the old sink - it looks like your new sink is actually a bit smaller (13x18 vs 16x19.5) which means there will not be any surface area on the counter for it to rest on. Lets say for a second you did find a slightly larger sink. You now need to consider the ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible