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16

Keep in mind that for inside corners, you shouldn't be using miter cuts at all -- you should cope them instead. That gives you a joint that appears mitered, but is more forgiving of slight errors and with less tendency to open up over time.


10

There are two possible causes for this: Your room's corners aren't exactly 90°. Your mitre saw isn't accurate. Given you mention you are using a compound mitre saw I'm going to go with the former. Unfortunately with non-square rooms you're going to have to do this by a little bit of trial and error. Use some offcuts of the moulding or even scrap wood to ...


10

The difference between a 10" 60T and 80T saw blade is only slightly noticeable. In practice, chip out with either isn't a huge concern, provided you go slow. An 80T blade is naturally going to slow you down more, so that may be useful if your tendency is to yank the radial arm down and go. Another consideration is the end grain of the piece, some trees ...


8

Measure in a foot or so from one inside corner and make a mark. Then measure from the opposite corner to your mark. Add the two measurements together for the full length. Note that this process is shown with pictures over on the blog.


8

Route the pieces, cut the miter, then assemble. I believe that will give the best look. You could just practice all three on some scrap to see which you like.


8

Most crown molding is going to have to be cut flat on the table. the angles are going to be 52 degrees on the angle, and 38 degrees on the bevel. For your corners, you are going to want to cope them instead of trying to fit these angles. Coping is the proper way of installing any type of trim (crown mold, base, shoe molding, cherry rail ect.) How you ...


7

For an inside corner, don't concern yourself with mitering the moulding, instead cope the crown moulding. Basically what you do is cut one piece so it goes to the end of the wall. Cut the other piece at about a 38 degree angle and then cope the angled piece. It's a little hard to explain in text, but here's a picture and a link to the corresponding ...


5

I watched the vid on Utube, very interesting. I don't use a slide chop saw for 2X4's (I use a 12" fixed) but that technique looks good to me. I think the reason is that taking two shallow passes is just as fast and doesn't load down the saw as much as a single pass. Since the angle of contact using a slide saw is much different than a fixed I can see why the ...


4

You could pick up a Bosch Miterfinder™ Digital Protractor Features Anglefinder — Determines the exact angles of jobsite or workpiece, eliminating guesswork. Compound Cut Calculator — Automatically determines the exact miter and bevel settings necessary to make each crown molding cut fit precisely. Protractor — precisely positions the workpiece or ...


4

Note that you don't need to cut crown moulding flat, you can just place it upside down with the top on the base of the miter saw and the wall side against the back of the saw. As ChrisF mentions, your walls won't be a perfect 90°. For inside corners, the mud from the drywall install will push the corner out, which will result in the back corners of the ...


4

It shouldn't be necessary. Some times it might be useful: Your hinge plates aren't flush to the surface of the door or the frame. You have a build-up of paint on the door or frame causing the door to rub or stick. Some wood splinters easily if it's cut at a right-angle. Rounding the corners a little can help this.


3

It's burning wood you smell. If it's not a new saw, the issue is likely that the blade is dull. Time for a new blade. If it's a new saw, it could be that you're cutting too fast through too hard of wood.


3

Are you cutting with the board standing up in the saw like it will be positioned in the room, or with the board laying flat in the saw and using the compound setting to cut it? The reason I mention it is that I once borrowed a saw and it just wasn't as accurate using the compound setting (saw tilted). Swinging the saw left or right, there is usually a detent ...


3

I believe this was pretty standard practice when interior doors were solid wood. My last house was 100 years old, and every interior door had an angle on the edge the way you describe. Was the guy you saw doing it an old-timer? I think the practice has advantages. It allows you to get a smaller reveal between the door and frame, which might look better. ...


2

You only need to do this if you've incorrectly mounted the hinge. The better solution would be to remount the hinges so you don't have to do this.


2

Miter-Bevel Settings Chart - Attached Below


2

If you want clamps on your saw, buy a saw with clamps.


2

Not every corner is perfect, and some adjustment is needed for every cut in some cases. Either the cut is not square, and the saw is still not adjusted, or the wall is bumped out at the bottom. If that is the case the wall can be carved back behind the base or the base can be thinned down on the back to get the corner to come together.


2

The diameter is important, as that's the maximum size blade that will physically fit in the saw. The arbor size is important, because that's the size hole that will fit on the saws mandrel. If either of these sizes are wrong, the blade simply will not fit on the saw. The thickness of the blade doesn't typically matter, as far as fitting on the machine. ...


2

I agree that for cutting 2 x 4's you absolutely do not want to use a jig saw. While a jig saw is handy to have. As Ed mentioned, you cannot get square cuts and are generally used for thin material and scroll work unless you shell out the money for a professional model with massive power. A compound miter saw is a better choice than a chop saw. I believe ...


1

Wow that was a long question! First welcome to the stack exchange , now to try to answer your questions. First if you want to spend just a little $ and do trim and framing Don't get a jig saw! Your cuts will not be square. A chop saw that can tilt can be purchased for a few more $ and it can cut square 2x4's and miter cuts. Chop saws cannot rip lumber and I ...


1

dont try to cut glass on a mitre saw. the blade goes too fast and other than the glass particles destroying every moving part of your saw (including the teeth), you are essentially trying to detonate a hand grenade this way the key to cutting glass is the following: 1) make sure you are using a sharp scoring wheel. if you cant remember the last time you ...


1

The drywall corner bead (the angled metal corner reinforcing strip that covers the whole outside corner) changes your angle at the corner, even if the walls are square (which they likely are not). You need to miter both molding pieces to a bit more than 45°, like a 1/2° on both to start, judging from your photo.


1

The standard way to cut mitered corners is with a miter saw, either a hand saw with a miter box or a power miter saw. I don't know how you're cutting your 45ºs currently. If you're using a hand saw and want good control, I would get a hand miter box with an adjustable angle, like this one on amazon. Usually they have stops at common angles like 45º and 22....


1

I was looking for a reliable way to do this and came upon a phone app called Crown Molding King (Android OS - but I'm sure there are others for other OS). The app is free. Enter the angle of your wall and the app will calculate the Miter and Bevel.


1

Testor101 is correct in both points. Coping this joint with the coping saw is the way it was most likely done when it was built. It does allow for a corner to be a bit of out of square, but doing this will be taxing on the blade of a coping saw, it is a lot of wood to cut through. But it can be done with patience. Trying to rush through a cut this size will ...


1

For future readers, Aluminum ( and copper, tin etc) can be cut with common carbide-tipped blades without any issues, and it's much easier than an abrasive blade. Clamp the metal, put a bit of wax on the blade, cut slowly. The noise made cutting 2 inch aluminum pipe with a radial arm saw is most impressive - the pipe works as a resonator. If you do use an ...


1

It turns out they make a bandsaw blade for cutting metal - I just used that.


1

At work we cut aluminium with a drop saw. An sometimes our table saw. We have a drop saw set up just for aluminium, with a fine tooth blade. It don't really do any damage to it as long as you cut slow. aluminium is softer then some of the timber we cut. So anyway if your trying to cut neat cuts use drop saw. An shouldn't do damage. If you are worried use ...


1

Cutting on the flat: If you are cutting on the flat there are lots of mitre/bevel charts online like this one: Cutting Nested: Have you tried nesting your crown? Hold the crown at the angle it would be on the wall, and just do a normal mitre (no need to worry about bevel). This is how I prefer to cut it, but everyone has their preferences. You can buy ...



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