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11

At Home Depot (or Lowes) you should be able to find these Spring Loaded Mirror Mounting Clips made specially for hanging a mirror. They are no where near as big as a j channel and the top two have a small spring inside of them so they kind of grasp the mirror (and snugly fit on the glass). You put the two without the springs in the bottom and the mirror ...


11

I'm unaware of any permanent solutions, but there are quick fixes available in the auto and dental industry. Dentists use anti-fogging solution like this or this. I know a guy who uses Rain-X Interior Glass Anti-Fog on his car mirrors. Would probably work inside a shower, too.


10

Why, of course! You're looking for a "magnetic catch". Just you should possibly install it the other way around - a metal plate on the wall, and the catch screwed on the mirror. Images added: Magnet mounted as plug in the cabinet with large head screw contact Magnet in cup washer and mating contact washer mounted with screws Thin magnet to metal plate ...


7

I'd agree with DA01 here. It's far more likely that your wall isn't perfectly flat rather than the mirror being distorted. The simple way to test this is to get a spirit level - or anything with an edge you know is true - and lay it across the mirror. If it doesn't lie flush then the mirror is warped. You can do the same with the wall.


6

What you're looking for is called a "stand-off". From mirrorsupports.net: For simple, standoffs, without the need to drill holes in the mirror, choose from the following framepegs or edgegrips. For large heavy mirrors and large offsets - drill holes in the mirror and use our standoff sytems.


6

Here is a little known secret, don't tell anyone!!!! "Bar Keepers Friend" powered cleaner works miracles with fogged, rain stained and calcium covered glass. It contains acyclic acid and a mirco fine abrasive. It cleans glass, head light lenses and fiberglass like crazy and give you a very smooth polished finish. you can also use it with a buffing wheel ...


6

Liquid Nails Mirror Adhesive, but it does say you need to use a mechanical support as well, such as a shelf angle or "J" channel. Another option is Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive which will hold about anything. In our new house, we installed large, frameless mirrors in each bathroom using this and it worked great. UPDATE As Alex pointed out in the ...


5

Mirrors are made up of two parts, the glass and then a reflective coating on the back. Because of this, they are not considered 100% glass and many times the town's recycle pickup (if your have one) for glass will not take them because there will be an additional process to separate the glass from the reflective material backing. Possible disposal methods: ...


5

I'm sure there are several ways to secure your mirror, However the two basic methods are 1) mechanical side clips and 2) Mirror adhesive. The safe and easiest way is to use mirror clips that screw into the wall around the parameter of the mirror. Small drywall anchors are normally used if you're not lucky enough to have a stud along the horizontal sides. ...


5

In Central Texas, we have very hard water (high calcium levels). I cope with this by using white vinegar. The 5-7% acid level will react with the calcium to make water-soluable salt which is easily removed. Apply vinegar to a damp, clean cloth, or use a spray bottle to apply vinegar to the affected areas. Let soak for 30-45 seconds, then wipe away with a ...


3

I think in this case the best solution is to use a timber profile - L shape trim. You stick it on the edge with some liquid nails glue and so it covers the wall from one side and goes over a mirror edge on the other the ones in the middle in the picture


2

You'll probably have an easier time using a picture hanger than a screw, and it will leave your wall in better shape when you remove it. Picture hangers transfer the downward force into pressure into the wall because the nail is mounted at an angle. The screw, on the other hand, is being bent because you're acting as a lever, where the stud is the fulcrum, ...


2

If you can feel the scratch with your finger nail then there is a good chance that it is too deep to remove by yourself, but you can certainly try! Removing scratches from glass is similar to removing them from car paint - you use a polishing compound (made for glass) and ideally an orbital polisher to try and remove the scratch (lots of muscle power works ...


2

Is the mirror one piece or is it made of tiles? Is it glued in place or supported by clips, brackets, or a frame? If it is mounted (clips, brackets, or frame) carefully unmount it, have it professionally cut, and then remount it. I strongly advise hiring a professional window or glass man to do this. If it is glued but is made of tiles: Locate a supply ...


2

Hydrochloric acid is the key component in swimming pool acidifying products (pH Minus). These products usually contain a buffer, which may make them less useful for your project. But, you can also by the stuff "straight": Crown Muriatic Acid - 1 Gallon at Lowe's.


2

By far, the best approach is to attach either clips or a frame to studs (either wood or steel, depending on your construction). If the panels are being arranged at the same level, you could run rails horizontally along the wall at the base and top of the panels. These could be made from two pieces of molding, one slightly thicker than the thickest glass ...


2

My preferred anchors in drywall for heavier loads are the newer toggle strap types. These have a steel brace that rests inside the wall, spreading te load over about 3 inches. They also have the benefit of allowing you to remove and reinstall the bolt, which older toggles didn't allow. The toggle is installed through a hole, usually 3/8 or 1/2 inch. The ...


1

I am a commercial electrician in the US and I'm not very familiar with UK standards or code, but I should be able to help a little. From what I understand, a typical household runs lighting on a 5A fused circuit. Watts = Volts*Amps = 230*5 = 1150 Watts maximum total on the lighting circuit. It the US we us a maximum of 80% of the rated load, which would ...


1

If the mounting hardware would hit a cable, you need only move the mirror a few inches to avoid it. Cut a small hole in the drywall / plaster and look in the wall. See where the cables go and hang the mirror in a way that doesn't hurt them. Cut the hole in a place that the mirror will cover, and you don't need to worry about doing a good repair job on it. ...


1

I think what you want is corner trim (sometimes referred to as "L" trim). The picture is a pretty extreme example. It has a lot of character but I like it for a mirror. Smaller lip over the mirrored side and circles on the other. I am not saying get this piece - just an example. Corner trim is a pretty generic word but it basically fits over a ...


1

You could mount support bars on the walls that touch the ends of the shelves. The bars should be screwed into studs that form the framing of the inset walls. Square tubing, either aluminum or steel would do well. The shelves would need to be fairly thick. They would have a slot (dado) cut into in the middle of the end edges, slightly wider that the ...


1

Just spit on your mirror and smear it all over it every time before you get out of the shower. I tried all the above a long time ago and did the spit as an experiment and it worked! When you pick up your mirror to use it just give it a rinse under the water and no fog the entire use. Promise.


1

It's not a permanent solution, but an easy solution is to get yourself a facial scrub that has glycerin in it. (A lot of them do. Get one that's a gel, not a cream.) Take a little dab of that and rub it on the mirror, and it'll stay fog-free for the duration of your shower. Bonus: Maybe it'll help encourage you to use a proper facial scrub rather than just ...


1

Mirror Adhesive ("mirror mastic") exists: As for how to hold it up; rest it on something: the top of the backsplash rest it on a strip of wood fastened to the wall and use mirror clips while it sets.


1

Use a straight edge to make sure there are no high spots on the wall.As the glass will not flex if the wall has an outward bulge the glass may break when you tighten the mounting brackets.Make sure that nothing will contact the mirror during regular activities,opening doors ,cabinets,drawfronts etc.It is also not advisable to mount it next to a doorway such ...


1

This turned up a few sources --> Googling "Mirror Screw Covers" And at least one place calls these "grommets with covers" --> CRL Mirror Grommets


1

I just called them 'hole plugs' and found a few options. You can include a material to find better options "hole plugs metal" "hole plugs plastic" http://www.heyco.com/products/thumb_05.html http://www.stockcap.com/hole-plug.html



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