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14

Um...in a word...ABSOLUTELY NOT!! You should without a doubt get the proper replacement insulation and put it back same as it came from the factory.


11

Setting traps will kill what you have, but you still have the problem of the mice getting in. you need to figure out how they are getting into the house. Mice can get through incredibly tiny holes, so it might be a chore to find them all. But as you find holes, seal them up. Steel wool is useful for this as they don't like chewing through it.


9

Sprinkle flour or talcum powder on the floor. Mice will leave tracks in the powder, eventually revealing entry points or nests. You don't have to blanket the entire floor, just near the walls/borders of the rooms, and "as needed" until you have the evidence you seek. Keep in mind that their typical range is 12-20 feet from their nest. Look for mouse ...


6

I've found that mice can get in almost anywhere. I don't know how your house is setup but I have a tree which is relatively near my roof. I've had mice get up on the tree, climb up and into the roof vent. If I were you I'd just drop some money on a good exterminator (check the Better Business Bureau to find a reputable one) and have them get the house a good ...


5

If you look carefully the problem may be worse than you estimate.Remove drawers from kitchen cabinets and check inside for droppings.Check the lower shelves of cabinets and any where food is stored.Try to eliminate food sources,crumbs,pet food etc. should be cleaned up and stored in sealed containors.I would contact the property owner and the local health ...


4

Generally, house mice don't carry hantavirus. However, it sounds like your property may be semi-rural, so there might be deer mice, which may carry it. I found this Center for Disease Control PDF. Interestingly enough, it doesn't talk about respiratory protection at all. It seems that all you need to do is spray down the old nests/etc. with disinfectant ...


4

Although you cannot access the area between the ceiling and roof, you should certainly give all due effort to finding possible point(s) of entry for the mice. For one thing, you can bait or place traps nearby (trial and error here might also help to identify whether or not your hunches are right about points-of-entry). More importantly, trapping the mice ...


3

Expanding foam can get messy but it may be your best bet, if you can keep it in place and they do not chew through it. You may want to either incorporate a heavy gauge metal mesh wire, neatly cut around or into the place the mice go through. You might could even "bed" the wire mesh in the foam as it is expanding to lock in place that way. Doing this will ...


3

Make sure you remove the food source they are eating. Stop giving them a reason to try and get into your house.


3

When sealing a hole around an electrical entry cable, the best product to use is Plasduct. It is a putty like material, gray in color. You will find it in most electrical departments at the box stores or your local hardware store. Use it just like modeling clay, work it a bit to make it pliable, then stuff it into the hole around the cable as deeply as ...


2

I personally go with 'forever'. I've got a good-size house, on a little bit land, and a garage door that I leave open for fair amounts of time each day in good weather. I'm ALWAYS going to have mice getting in, even though I've patched every hole I can find. It's just sort of inevitable at this point. So I keep the snap-traps under the sink and in the ...


2

3 basic things to do: get rid of food access (put cereal in plastic tubs, grains in glass jars, etc.) block access (plug all holes in the structure...permanantly, if you can...otherwise use stainless steel wool) trap existing mice (I'm a fan of the glue traps...though they may not be the most humane, they do work) Unfortunately, in a shared structure, #1 ...


2

Call an exterminator, or if you rent, insist your landlord call an exterminator. Personally, I feel a mouse infestation where they are in the main areas of your house crosses the line from "pest annoyance" to "serious health issue." There are of course many things you can do on your own to repel or even eliminate mice, but if you have a baby on the way, you ...


2

The presence of the droplets seems to indicate that there is still a water leak in the roof of the bumpout. The discoloration is likely coming from the accumulated dirt and dust in the "attic" part of the bumpout. It is also possible that the discoloration is coming from the leak water pooling in an area where the mice deposited their droppings and then ...


1

I believe it comes down to smell, that of you and dead mouse. Sanitize them over the stove for a few seconds. Ecnerwal's 'weathering' technique probably works just as well or better. Mice have a very keen sense of smell. If they start to avoid traps, it could be because they sense a human smell around the trap. That is why it is always best to wear ...


1

I have personally moved to the "plastic cheese" traps and use them with no bait (other than the supposed, and probably fictional IMHO, "odor in the plastic." They have a large target area and a trigger of adjustable sensitivity - if it gets stepped on, it gets tripped. I reuse them without undue care (I do leave them out in the weather for a while if they ...


1

It's unlikely to be a major issue with reused traps. Just check that there's not a little rust or something developed that is causing them to stick. You could try a square of chocolate as the bait. If you heat the pin on the trigger platform, you can push the chocolate on and it's stuck there. That makes it harder for the mice to get away with the bait.


1

Is it safe? No for a few reasons: Chance of surrounding objects to catch fire (if not they will be damaged). Food not getting cooked properly (oven may not be able to achieve desired temp). You suffer from constant heat exposure. Your wallet will kill you (if the above doesn't do you in first). The insulation is there for 2 reasons: Keep the heat in ...



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