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7

If you don't have the proper structure under the area, you're not going to want to use full sized bricks for this project. Brick walls require proper concrete footings to support the massive amount of weight, if you don't have the ability to add the footings you won't be able to build a brick wall here. In situations like this, veneer will likely be your ...


7

Looking at your pic, I think you have a couple of problems to solve. the reason the bricks broke in the first place is that the base under the edge of the bricks is too low or uneven. This cause the edge of the bricks to break under pressure. I also see that the crack has traveled further to the inside brick and that one as well as the mortar joint is ...


6

Quikrete FASTSET Repair Mortar is a great product. The biggest difference between it and a typical type S mortar is that it is "fastset" (duh) meaning it will be hard in about 20 min. Not cured, but hardened. And that it is intended for commercial use as it will eventually reach 6000 psi after it's full 28 day cure. This product does not need any bonding ...


6

If by HMA you mean Hot-Melt Adhesive, that stuff is for arts & crafts, not construction. You should be using construction adhesive. LOCTITE®, LIQUID NAILS®, DAP®, and possibly other adhesive manufacturers offer a molding adhesive.


6

It occurred to me that this project might benefit from a single piece stone cap and eliminate lintel altogether. You could incorporate a bit of slope and weather proof the structure. A stone supply house could fashion it out of limestone. More traditional lintel: This window drawing is pretty analogous to a mailbox opening: You are probably building a ...


5

First of all, I hope the mortar wasn't concrete. Concrete and mortar, while related, are two different things. Mortar is meant to be softer and give (rather than the brick or stone giving and thereby cracking). The proper solution is to re-tuck-point the joint. That means chip/grind out the old mortar and put new mortar back in. Alas, mortared steps are ...


5

You could try some "No Nails" or equivalent, though as you say it shouldn't be necessary. The size of screw you are using will determine the size of the anchor you use. This in turn will determine the size of hole you drill. The anchor should fit snugly into the hole and even require a light tap with a small hammer to ensure it fits flush with the surface. ...


5

It is efflorescence. Water picks up minerals in the mortar and transports them until the water evaporates, leaving the minerals behind. Other than cosmetic issues, this is normally harmless, though if the process continues for a long period, enough minerals can be removed that the mortar sort of rots. Only close inspection will indicate if the mortar is ...


4

Paint difficulties can be resolved by scraping and priming with a shellac or oil based primed. I prefer the polyurethane based construction adhesives for strength and toughness. Their down side is cure time (overnight) Another scheme would be to cut back the plaster to 75% of the baseboard height with a diamond blade in an angle grinder (yes, very messy: ...


4

They make them. Not concrete blocks per se but other precast concrete units. You'll need to find out if you're local suppliers carry them or you have a precast stone manufacturer near you. The family of products you're talking about, which includes not only the half round but other shapes, are called concrete coping stones. That should help you ask around ...


3

A mid size rotary hammer (SDS plus or SDS max) with a point and a chisel will break the bricks out. Have an extra manual chisel, mason's hammer and prybar on hand (to free the rotary hammer, when you get carried away and plunge too deep). Hand, eye and head (hard hat) protection are advised. Dust masks, too.


3

Cement surface and even paint (scarifed with 50 grit belt sander or similar) can stay, if both are well adhered.. An experiment is in order: Use a good quality thinset, (Laticrete Platinum 254 or Custom Flexbond) Trowel on 1/4 inch patch (4in x 4in or so). Wait 24 hours Chip off patch with a chisel Observe the removed thinset: If it cleaves off ...


3

If you don't want to remove your drywall, then putting full sized bricks is not a good idea! Tying into the drywall is also bad idea- it would most likely rip out and will absorb any dampness locked in between all the walls. There are solution out there where you put look alike bricks that are just a fraction of the weight and there is adhesive that is ...


3

You have divots in a concrete driveway. I'd saw around the divot area, break it all out, and pour concrete, rather than anything to do with asphalt. Drill some holes in the edges and insert steel to tie the patch to the slab. If following the "quick fix" fill-on-top approach, possibly thinset (tile cement) but trying to do anything with concrete in the ...


3

Insulation value of masonry walls vs wood-frame walls You should be able to find guidance. For example Scottish Guidance, UK Guidance In the UK, I believe regulations specify maximum U-values U-values are measured in watts per square metre per degree Kelvin (W/m²K). So for example, if we consider a double glazed window with a U-value of 2.8, for ...


3

My house was built in the 1880s and has a stone foundation, mostly sand stone. The best fix for situations like this I have found is building a form and packing in stiff cement and as large of pieces of the original rock as I can get. If you do the form in a couple layers (say using a 2x4 or 2x6, the long way). Let the cement s set around 24 hours and brush ...


2

The answer is going to depend on whether or not you intend to ever use this flue again. If it is never going to be used, I'd seal it up with a solid cap, mortared down. if you think you may need it again, then a simple rain cap with a vermin screen would be fine.


2

The answer turns out to be polymeric mortar. It has enough stretch and give to make up the difference in expansion between the stone and the concrete. Since this isn't taking any load, just preventing freeze/thaw cycles from breaking the stone apart, the lower strength of the mortar is of less concern. We'll see how it holds up after a few winters, of ...


2

Those hangars are designed to go into wood, but you should be able to install into concrete using lag shields, just as you would use with a lag bolt. My only concern is that lag bolts have a standards and ratings, where this ladder hangar might be of unknown strength, and could simply shear off in the lag shield. I wouldn't park my car next to or beneath it. ...


2

I would scrub with water only @10hrs - 48 hrs. I wouldn't use muriatic/water until 3-4 weeks. Be sure to add acid to water, not water to acid. An 8:1 (water-acid) mix is a good place to start. Pre-wet the wall and any plants nearby. Rinse off then neutralize with ammonia or baking soda and water. Old clothes, rubber gloves, eye protection. If you use ...


2

I am really not sure what your patio looks like. I am going to assume it sits on the ground. It would be normal for a lot of the erosion of the patio to happen on the corners. You have basically two options... Compress ground. You need to wet the ground around the area to make sure there are no gaps with weight. The pavers shouldn't be hanging above ...


2

Simpson Strong-Tie has an epoxy system for permanently setting structural anchoring systems in cement. It's probably the strongest you will come across. The bolts need to go as deeply into the wall as possible for maximum surface area. One of your problems with this mounting is that steel is quite strong in shear but leverage increases pretty swiftly when ...


2

The anchor you show is a lead anchor that is often used for masonry. However, as you see it failed. Lead is crushed into the walls of the hole by the screw or bolt holding it, but is prone to tearing under heavy load. The walls of the hole may also crumble under heavy pressure. If the holes are truly 3/4, you can use an expansion fastener that is steel, ...


2

This is EIFS- Exterior Insulating Finish System. A little info on it here. You won't need a GC to do this, it is a small repair. There are EIFS installers you can call. They will tell you it will not repair easily. It will not touch up, they will need to recreate or overlay the whole "block" so to speak. It may be better to peel off the original and start ...


2

Definitely pre-drill the wood. By removing the material, the nail doesn't have an opportunity to wedge open a crack. To make it trouble-free long-term, make the drilled hole just a little smaller than the nail shaft for a tight fit.


2

Had a few minutes... created a model in SketchUp and found that with a 3/8" wide joint the mortar takes up .55 sq ft per square foot of wall. 1" depth after removing part of the old mortar and it comes out to 0.015 cubic feet per square foot of wall. About 0.7 cubic feet of wet mortar per 80lb bag and that comes out to close to 46 square feet per 80lb bag ...


2

There is a product called Sure Klean® that is used nowadays. I am sure there are other brands out there too. Muriatic acid used to be used, at least it was when I was a masons helper, but I think Its availability is regulated. Sure-Klean has it, just in small amounts I guess. It needs to be diluted and protection worn, it pretty caustic stuff, so read the ...


1

Just get replacement windows instead of new construction and use tapcons to fasten the windows through the sides. Caulk outside good to keep out water. Foundation should also be graded away from the window to keep out water.


1

I would use a fiber reinforced concrete to repair the area that has broken away. You could go overboard and use a fiber-reinforced and polymer modified product like this too.


1

Type S mortar has a high bonding property which is perfect for bonding to other concrete and masonry after the fact. It is also thin enough that you can get it deep in the cracks where the mortar used to be. I can't say for sure that FastSet repair mortar will do the trick too, but if you do go this route, make sure that you get concrete bonding adhesive ...



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