Hot answers tagged masonry
7
Looking at your pic, I think you have a couple of problems to solve. the reason the bricks broke in the first place is that the base under the edge of the bricks is too low or uneven. This cause the edge of the bricks to break under pressure. I also see that the crack has traveled further to the inside brick and that one as well as the mortar joint is ...
7
If you don't have the proper structure under the area, you're not going to want to use full sized bricks for this project. Brick walls require proper concrete footings to support the massive amount of weight, if you don't have the ability to add the footings you won't be able to build a brick wall here.
In situations like this, veneer will likely be your ...
6
If by HMA you mean Hot-Melt Adhesive, that stuff is for arts & crafts, not construction.
You should be using construction adhesive.
LOCTITE®, LIQUID NAILS®, DAP®, and possibly other adhesive manufacturers offer a molding adhesive.
6
It occurred to me that this project might benefit from a single piece stone cap and eliminate lintel altogether. You could incorporate a bit of slope and weather proof the structure. A stone supply house could fashion it out of limestone.
More traditional lintel:
This window drawing is pretty analogous to a mailbox opening:
You are probably building a ...
5
Quikrete FASTSET Repair Mortar is a great product. The biggest difference between it and a typical type S mortar is that it is "fastset" (duh) meaning it will be hard in about 20 min. Not cured, but hardened. And that it is intended for commercial use as it will eventually reach 6000 psi after it's full 28 day cure. This product does not need any bonding ...
5
You could try some "No Nails" or equivalent, though as you say it shouldn't be necessary.
The size of screw you are using will determine the size of the anchor you use. This in turn will determine the size of hole you drill.
The anchor should fit snugly into the hole and even require a light tap with a small hammer to ensure it fits flush with the surface. ...
4
Paint difficulties can be resolved by scraping and priming with a shellac or oil based primed. I prefer the polyurethane based construction adhesives for strength and toughness. Their down side is cure time (overnight)
Another scheme would be to cut back the plaster to 75% of the baseboard height with a diamond blade in an angle grinder (yes, very messy: ...
3
If you don't want to remove your drywall, then putting full sized bricks is not a good idea! Tying into the drywall is also bad idea- it would most likely rip out and will absorb any dampness locked in between all the walls.
There are solution out there where you put look alike bricks that are just a fraction of the weight and there is adhesive that is ...
3
I am really not sure what your patio looks like. I am going to assume it sits on the ground.
It would be normal for a lot of the erosion of the patio to happen on the corners. You have basically two options...
Compress ground. You need to wet the ground around the area to make sure there are no gaps with weight. The pavers shouldn't be hanging above ...
3
First of all, I hope the mortar wasn't concrete. Concrete and mortar, while related, are two different things. Mortar is meant to be softer and give (rather than the brick or stone giving and thereby cracking).
The proper solution is to re-tuck-point the joint. That means chip/grind out the old mortar and put new mortar back in.
Alas, mortared steps are ...
2
Those hangars are designed to go into wood, but you should be able to install into concrete using lag shields, just as you would use with a lag bolt. My only concern is that lag bolts have a standards and ratings, where this ladder hangar might be of unknown strength, and could simply shear off in the lag shield. I wouldn't park my car next to or beneath it.
...
1
I would use a fiber reinforced concrete to repair the area that has broken away. You could go overboard and use a fiber-reinforced and polymer modified product like this too.
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A sealer I use for stone and grout (also rated for brick) is Miracle 511 Porous Plus. It is solvent based, so use an organic respirator during application, remove pets, ventilate!
The Miracle product adds no sheen or color, absorbing completely.
They have a water-based product also, although I haven't used it and can't confirm-or-deny.
The Sure Klean ...
1
If you want to add a new layer of brick wall then it is best to remove the drywall completely and get right back to the structural, original wall.
As commented, using full bricks will cause a lot of weight on your load bearing structure and could cause serious damage to your structure!
Rip the drywall out and get to your bricks. As long as you are only ...
1
It is conventional that the wire that comes for use by stucco is backed by a special paper that prevents the stucco from contacting to the underlying wood or plywood. The wire should also be installed with special nails that have a pair of spacer washers (the ones I've used had fiberboard washers) on the nails. These are designed to hold the wire a certain ...
1
Sounds like a good idea. You will need to put a layer of roofing felt over the plywood, as stucco will absorb water. You will also need to attach the mesh with galvanized nails or lath screws so they don't corrode. There are two kinds of stucco: base coat and finish. For small jobs like this, you can probably get away with using just two layers of base ...
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The easiest way to drill brick without the bit moving off the mark is to use a nail/center punch/awl/nail set etc.. to make an indentation on your mark. Take one of the above objects, and place the point on the mark on the brick and tap it with a hammer, this will make a little indentation on the brick that will hold the drill bit in place until it digs ...
1
The most important part is to start off in the correct location. Once you have started the hole it's relatively easy to keep straight if you take it slowly and have a steady hand.
If your drill has a variable speed - either via a selector switch or by varying the pressure on the trigger - use the lowest speed possible to start the hole. A drill that uses ...
1
Type S mortar has a high bonding property which is perfect for bonding to other concrete and masonry after the fact. It is also thin enough that you can get it deep in the cracks where the mortar used to be.
I can't say for sure that FastSet repair mortar will do the trick too, but if you do go this route, make sure that you get concrete bonding adhesive ...
1
You're on the right track. I've repaired chips and missing chunks in 80-100 year old public stairways in similar ways. Start with a hammer and chisel, and be really aggressive like a dentist to find and remove all the soft spots.
I've used the tapcon screws, but generally find it easier to chisel an irregular shape that does the same thing.
For your ...
1
Anchors are not intended for resisting longitudinal loads ('pulling'); they are meant for resisting sheer loads. If your shelves will pull on the anchors, redesign the shelves--you are setting yourself up for failure.
If you do want to resist pulling, use the 'bent nail' type of fastener, or a masonry screw. The blue Tapcon anchor screws work quite well ...
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