Hot answers tagged mailbox
You have a couple of options that I can think of, assuming that the ground around the post is fairly firm: Wedge something in next to the post. (thin rocks, cut down cedar shingles, etc.) Fill in the gap next to the post by pouring in sand If the ground's soft, you'll need to re-compact the soil around the post. (and if it's not soft, you can always ...
It occurred to me that this project might benefit from a single piece stone cap and eliminate lintel altogether. You could incorporate a bit of slope and weather proof the structure. A stone supply house could fashion it out of limestone. More traditional lintel: This window drawing is pretty analogous to a mailbox opening: You are probably building a ...
The post may be broke off in the ground. If it's really wobbly, it won't hurt to try and yank it up and take a look. You could try to sink something like a 1x4 down long side the existing post. Of if the existing post isn't too damaged, maybe dig around it and pour some post hole cement in. It's like $5 for a 50lb bag at most big box home stores, you just ...
6-8 inches from the curb according to the official USPS website. Of course, this refers to the location of the door relative to the front face of the curb. If the plow is taking out the post, rather than the box itself, you could install a post that is angled, rather than vertical. My dad would cement a 6-foot steel fence post 5 feet into the ground in ...
The key sounds like a lost cause. The lock will probably need to be changed. The mail carrier has access to the box, usually through a large panel at the top (above the doors you open). It is likely that access to the lock is possible when that large panel is open. You probably need to coordinate with her or him and the superintendent of your building to ...
You can use a metal anchor that screws into the ground. You then attach your wood post to the slot on top of the anchor with lag bolts. It's sturdy, but still gives way if impacted. See here: diymailboxes.com/how-to-install-a-mailbox-post-without-concrete/
Years ago, growing up on a rural farm in the midwest, my father solved the drunk driver mail box problem. He did this after drivers and snowplows took out the mail box several times. He placed the mail box on a long arm that was cantilevered over a swivel post 10 to 12 feet off the side of the roadway. The design of the swivel post was such that the mail ...
If you know who hit it, buy a new mailbox, and send them the bill. They are liable. If you don't know who hit it, there's more incentive to save a buck by fixing this one, since most insurance companies will raise your rates if you file for a hit and run, and the raised rates will cost more than just fixing it. If you can't get the nuts off, either cut ...
Screw the mail slot shut and mount a conventional key locking weather tight mail box to the door.
At least 6 inches back from the farthest the snowplow came off the road in order to hit said mailbox. Really there's what's legal and what's practical. As long as your mail person will still deliver, try to get it back from where the plows run because the city is never going to pay for their screw ups. Another good way to find out your safe distance is to ...
Dig a hole larger than the post and put gravel into the hole until the post sits on top of the gravel at the right height. Then add gravel around the post a little at a time and keep packing it in. The gravel is harder to displace than dirt, and it allows the water to drain away from around the post so it doesn't rot as quickly.
This person used external guy wires: (NOT A RECOMMENDED SOLUTION!) A relatively quick and cheap fix is to drive a steel angle down beside the post and lash it with bailing wire. It's not particularly pretty.
I found a product called Securepost on Amazon that is made to straighten mailbox posts. It is a plate that you dig down 4 inches and wraps the post and then pound 6 stakes through it. It worked for me.
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