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12

Technically, the 1x8 is 3/4" THICK, not "high". That's nitpicking, though. A 1x8 is always specified as a "1x8", never by actual stock thickness in softwoods (ie pine). A nominal 1" plank will always be 3/4" thick after planing, a nominal 2" plank will always be 1-1/2" thick after planing. Width is a little different, but follows generally the same rules - ...


11

From the similarity of the lines, I'd say you pulled something out of the old 2x4 (nails) and dragged them across the board, perhaps as you twisted and pulled to separate/remote the board from wherever it was before. I don't believe there are any insects that travel in perfect unison like that.


8

You won't want to use pressure treated wood in any application where people will be touching the wood often, especially children. Cedar is a good wood for outdoor applications, and is often used in playhouses and swing sets. If you've got really deep pockets, Teak is a very good choice for outdoor applications. Teak is often used in higher end patio ...


8

I would say crown side up and shed water. The deck that was on my house when I bought it was cup side up and is in horrible shape. That could be from the fact that the people never took care of it but being in a rather wet/snowy climate didn't help. I'm sure pooled water of any kind can't be good, even on treated wood.


8

You have to cut the wood somehow... You can give your blades a wipedown with a slightly damp rag to remove sawdust particles (let them air-dry well afterward), but I wouldn't worry too much. It's mostly a problem with long-term contact; the copper compounds in the chemical treatment cause a galvanic reaction with most metals, rusting them. To prevent this, ...


7

You need to calculate the outward force. Assume 8' x 8' x 3' hot tub, filled to the top. 3 ft of head * 0.424 * 1(specific gravity of water) = 1.302 psi That's the pressure at the bottom. Obviously the pressure at the top is 0. If I were to sketch the pressure gradient, it would be a triangle, so we can easily calculate the average pressure as 1.302 /2 = ...


6

Ok Jay. A PT post will last a long time in concrete, maybe 5 to 10 yrs in soil alone. I suggest you imbed the post in concrete, trowel a peak around the post so water runs off, and don't let the PT post come in contact with the ground. If you find the RV posts I mentioned earlier, they are steel , treated and when put in concrete will last 25 yrs or ...


6

Typically you would have the beam sit on top of the posts and use a post tie like this one:


6

Although both ways are advised by different sources, I have built dozens of decks in Maine as a contractor and have found that pressure treated and cedar boards almost always crown to the bark side and recommend the bark side face outward. Obviously this helps shed water and doesn't collect ice in pockets in the winter. Don't mix the methods as this can ...


6

I would definitely use Pocket-hole joinery My brother got me a jig that is very easy to use, and the joints are incredibly strong even without wood glue; also if you use glue the joins are "self clamping". Basically this allows you to edge-join, or do 45 degree angles, etc. just by drilling a couple of perfectly angled holes and screwing the pieces ...


5

As other's have pointed out, a square timber-framed hot tub is going to be a structural challenge. You're essentially building an above-ground pool--and you'll notice that they don't make above-ground pools in a square shape...namely because it's nearly impossible to support the water along the long edges. The solution is to go round. Then you can use ...


5

Unless you have a kiln to dry wood in, drying wood in a standard environment takes a really long time (if you buy firewood, usually you want ~2yr old wood!). I don't know that leaving it out for a couple weeks would dry it if it were so saturated that there is visible water coming out of it. It is recommended to let wood used for hardwoods sit a couple ...


5

In Canada, while officially we are metric, all the construction work I've been around is done almost entirely in imperial. Everything comes in the same dimensions, and is referred to in feet and inches. Framing is done 16 or 24" on center, standard ceilings are 8' high. Part of this may just be a hold-over from years of everyone doing that way, and then ...


5

The following information is from Norway, but I would expect that the same dimensions are used elsewhere in Europe. The system used there parallels what we have here in the U.S., but the actual dimensions are different. Colloquially, terms like “two-by-four” are used, but the actual millimeter sizes are used in price lists, etc. The dimensions referred ...


5

Strapping You could use some form of strapping on the back side. With this option, you can extend the strapping and use it to attach the whole bit to the workbench. Bored Holes You could bore holes on the edge of the top or bottom piece to about half the width of the board, then use screws to fasten the two boards together. You'll likely want to ...


5

The joists are almost certainly taking some tension load (keeping the walls from spreading) from the roof, at least, unless it's very strangely built. As is, given a quick look at load calculators and those inputs, probably not. even reducing live and dead loads to 20PSF (minimum live load for a "storage attic" and a pretty low storage load) and allowing ...


5

The main reason the recess is in the back of all moldings is to "thin" the wood, reducing the amount of continuous rings in the wood that helps control cupping. There is a fringe benefit of that relief in the back of trim, it helps get past some irregularities in the wall. I have had more problems with that relief cut than benefits when it come to base. The ...


5

I would cut off the timber in the ground using a Sawzall type tool (reciprocating saw) that has a long rough cut blade installed. You can get blades as long as 12 inches that can easily reach into tight spots and cut the wood. Soil will wear the teeth away fairly quickly and so be prepared to replace the blade. I've used this technique to cut roots free ...


4

I'm from all metric country, but lot of stuff in constructing busyness are in "cols" that is inches. Again things like 2" or 4" are around 5cm and 10cm, so it's all round numbers.


4

It's a bit wider than a typical US 2x4, but likely equivalent. A 2x4 that you get for building is 3.5"x1.5" so that would equate to 89x38mm.


4

As you say you want to use screws and it's non-structural, I'd go with: Get some 4" wood screws, drill half way down through the upper piece with a drill slightly bigger than the screw heads, you shouldn't need to do pilot holes all the way through as 2" really shouldn't split unless you use huge screws. I'd go with 4 or 5 screws along the length. Screw ...


4

Use a prybar to lever up the treads about 1/8" and then use a Sawzall type reciprocating saw with a metal blade to cut the shank between the tread and the riser. Check to see if you can rent the reciprocting saw at a tool rental. The blades are readily available at any Hardware and Tool supply. You won't be wanting to drive back into the same hole as the ...


3

If you're simply framing up a hot tub. It's not likely a structure like this will contain the water, since the water will not only be applying force downward, but also outward in all directions. Some form of banding would be a start to increasing the strength. The banding may not be strong enough to overcome the forces, so bracing may also be required. ...


3

Wolmanized wood is a subsection of pressure treated wood. There are many different processes that fall in the preserved wood category and Wolmanized wood used a copper azole process. It is manufactured by Arch wood products.


3

If you're in the Pacific Northwest, Hemlock is the wood of choice for soft-wood molding. Pine would have to be clear (knot-free) and fine-grain Douglas Fir is expensive and tougher on the shaper blades.


3

This is called bender board. Typically made of Redwood for rot resistance. It is used as edging for gardening and lawns, forms for concrete walkways and base material for making lattice. Available on the US West Coast either direct from Redwood products mills or from Lowe's or Home Depot in thicknesses from 1/4" to 3/8"


3

Any 'credible and/or official sources' will tell you to hire a Structural Engineer, which is what I'll say also. There are too many variables and unknowns for Internet advice to suffice. Prepare well to minimize costs, supplying all dimensions and drawings, and schedule a site visit. The Engineer may be able to give the details for a top truss run ...


3

If you want to color maple, you might investigate dyes rather than stains - leaves much more of the grain visible. If you're going to stain it anyway, poplar (in the lumber trade that almost always means tulip poplar) is a nice, cheap, stable wood. Has a somewhat greenish cast, but dark stain will obliterate it. Responding to Jack's comment: I've posted ...


2

A month or two. Hard to say I've seen them almost dripping but I've also gotten them nice and dried out because they were probably sitting around on site or at the lumber year for a bit. They key would be good airflow don't just keep them in a pile. I too would recommend putting the fence up then painting it later



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