Hot answers tagged lubrication
WD-40 isn't actually a true lubricant. WD stands for water displacing. The main use for WD-40 is as a solvent and a rust dissolver. The lubricant-like properties of WD-40 are from rapidly evaporating components. It won't last. True lubricants include things like silicone, grease, Teflon, graphite, etc. WD-40 can be good as a first go at things, it can help ...
Firearms - you should never use WD-40 to clean or maintain firearms. It's hygroscopic and will attract moisture to the firearm which will result in rust. Drive chains of any type - because WD-40 isn't a lubricant it really will not work well on Drive chains of any type. Gears of any type - WD-40 doesn't have enough lubrication affect to be useful on any ...
WD-40 does a lot of things, unfortunately this means that it does not do any one thing well. As a lubricant WD-40 is very thin and runny. WD-40 will lubricate for a short time, but will quickly run off. This is a side effect from it being a penetrant. If it was thicker for better lubrication it would not penetrate well. WD-40 is a GREAT quick-fix and ...
WD-40 is composed of many different chemicals, and only about 10-20% of these are lubricants. Even then this small amount is only a very light mineral lubricant. Most of the other components are intended to help penetration, but are volatile and are intended to evaporate. WD-40 does provide some longer term lubrication, but the problem is that the ...
Never use WD 40 on door hinges or anything you want to keep clean. It attracts dirt and dust. It will turn your hinge pins black.
It doesn't move and it should = WD40 If it does move and it shouldn't = duct tape WD40 is only used as an immediate lubricant, eg. for a stuck bolt, or a s water dispersant. Don't use it where you need longer term lubrication, like a bike chain.
OLD ANSWER (Improved below) Graphite powder is the preferred lubricant for locks. You should be able to get it at any hardware store in a squeeze bottle that is half air, allowing you to blow it right into the keyway. You are going to have to wait a while before putting it on, as the residual WD-40 will gum it up. EDIT: As per MrSquonk's ...
Rubik's cubes. Serious cubers will lube their cubes with Jigaloo, CRC silicone, or even vaseline. But, will point and laugh at noobs who use WD-40, as it melts the cube, likely seizing it. Yet people keep doing it.
Oil of any kind is the wrong lube to use on hinges. Oil, WD40, or any petro based product wets the hinge surfaces and will collect dust and dirt. I always recommend dry silicone spray. Silicone works great, won't harm surrounding finishes etc. Some folks like graphite, but I find it a bit messy to use.
Bicycle chains! WD40 will ruin a bike chain and the gears wear out quicker. It washes the dirt in, the dirt acts as an abrasive and not a lubricant.
The rail from the garage door should be lubricated with White Lithium Grease, whether it's a chain or a screw type. Run a bead of grease along the top of it, then run the garage door up and down a few times. The wheels, track and spring should be lubricated with your favorite lubricant oil -- not WD-40, which is a cleaner and penetrant, not a lube -- but ...
Properly lubricating the hinges should stop the squeaks. In short, you remove the hinges from the door, lubricate them, and put them back. You'll want to use white lithium grease. It works very well for metal on metal contact. I'm assuming simple door hinges here, like these You'll want to do each door one at time. Long Process Have someone ...
Musical Instruments. My sister works at a music store, and a father ruined an $800 clarinet by using WD-40 on "the squeaky part".
Personal experience: An electrician told me never to squirt WD40 into an electric motor (bathroom exhaust fan) as it can be ignited.
Lock cylinders. Never in lock cylinders. Doorknobs, padlocks, etc. - the residue left will just attract dirt & grit, and prematurely wear down the works. This was given me by a college friend whose dad worked on the maintenance staff - so they did a lot of locks!! It probably took years to see the pattern, but any lock they had shot with WD-40 ...
Any dry silicon spray lube will be fine also. Do not use and petroleum based lubes or WD40. Wet type lubes attract dirt and dust and get very messy. Same advise goes for door hinges.
A PTFE (aka Teflon®) spray such as this should do the trick. They're widely available, and in several brands so you should be able to find one easily. The squeak comes mostly from the roller turning around its axle, so I spray a little in between them and spin the roller a few times to distribute it. Clean up any excess with a paper towel. I don't have ...
It never should be used on AirSoft or PaintBall weapons as it melts the seals.
I read an article once by a clock repairman who described how bad WD-40 is for precision clockworks. The main reason has been given already: it attracts dirt, which acts as an abrasive and eventually gums up the action.
Powered graphite will be very messy. I still recommend spray on white lithium grease or garage door lube from PB Blaster. Both products are great for the chain, rollers, and roller channels. Never use WD 40 or any type of oils.
After reading @woodchips answer and throwing in my $0.02 offhand, I did a bit of research. I found this article on the use (or non-use) of graphite on aircraft. The article mentions that metals such as aluminum, magnesium, zinc, and cadmium may experience galvanic corrosion when exposed to graphite lubricant. Since galvanic corrosion requires an electrolyte, ...
For locks that are in such bad shape that one is unable to get graphite powder in it, you can first use a little bit of LPS 1 (Greaseless lubricant). Do not use any kind of silicone lube, that's FAR worse than WD-40 (I had a guy come in with a couple locks he'd done that to, it ended up costing him a good bit of labor for me to undo that mess)!
Vegetable oil will gum up, attract dirt and dust, and eventually end up a huge mess. DO NOT use it. Mineral oil is a food-safe oil not normally used as a cooking lubricant, but it is the go-to for replenishing woods and lubricating mechanical parts of cooking utensils. It won't gum up, and is OK to use in a pinch. Most machine oils are a bit thin; they'll ...
You'll want to use a dry silicone lubricant like this. Or a graphite lubricant like this. The liquid part of these lubricants evaporates quickly, leaving behind a protective coating that will keep the lock functioning properly for quite some time. You don't want to use a lubricant like WD-40, because it will not evaporate completely and will collect ...
You can remove the oil film with a rag or paper towel soaked in some organic solvent like isopropyl alcohol. Don't these windows have any stop so they can be left ajar without blowing open? It might be good to install something like that instead. A long hook and eyelet would be the simplest.
Replace it. There is nothing to "lubricate" (it's already full of oil) and if there was it would not increase resistance. You have some sort of failure in the valving/orifices that restrict the flow of the oil inside the cylinder and convert motion to heat. They are more directly analogous to shock absorbers (as on your car) than "hydraulic cylinders" and ...
For something where you need longer lasting lubrication, consider Silicone-based spray. Comes in a can just like WD-40, but it "sticks" better.
The underlying problem may be that the hinges are not perfectly aligned.
No on the brake fluid and no on the steering fluid. If the fan has a fitting to apply oil use a light oil like 3 in 1 home lubricant. If the fan isn't equipped with an oiling port you will have to disassemble the fan to gain access to the bushings or bearings.
Brake Fluid is not a lubricant, but a glycol based hydraulic fluid designed to have a high boiling point and to absorb water to prevent corrosion (why the brake system should be completely bled out every so often). Power Steering fluid and Transmission fluid are petroleum based hydraulic fluids, more useful for their ability to transmit pressure, resist ...
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