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I don't know the details of that system, but that certainly is not "how they all work". The box outside should only be an intercom in the one you've shown us. If there was a keypad to unlock the door, that would only send key-press signals rather than connecting directly to the latch. The wire which operates the latch should NOT be exposed. Either you're ...


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If I am inferring correctly what you are describing, it sounds like the "brains" of the system are installed outside with one screw access. That, of course, is an abysmal design. The only thing that should be outside accessible would be the wires to the call button and speaker - all other wiring should be inside-access only. If you are otherwise happy with ...


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The system to which the question links lists this "Flush Mortice Lock Release 12v AC/DC - Fail Secure" under the heading *Related Items You May Need". If the lock is in a locked state, it remains locked upon interruption of power just as one would respect of a competently designed system component.


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My step father recently undertook this project. He started by removing the old lock mechanism. Then he filled the space previously occupied by the lock, with a solid wood block. Next he used some form of wood filler (not sure the exact brand/type he used), to fill the holes in the faces of the door. Once he painted the doors, they looked like new. He ...


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There are certainly modern mortise locks which accept pin-tumbler cylinders. Whether any of them will fit in your existing mortise is another question; you may need to enlarge the mortise. You will undoubtedly have to drill for the cylinders; you may need to drill new knob/latch holes as well (though "decorative" brass or chrome plates can hide a multitude ...



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