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16

OLD ANSWER (Improved below) Graphite powder is the preferred lubricant for locks. You should be able to get it at any hardware store in a squeeze bottle that is half air, allowing you to blow it right into the keyway. You are going to have to wait a while before putting it on, as the residual WD-40 will gum it up. EDIT: As per MrSquonk's ...


12

The lock in the knob can be set to be locked when the door is closed. In other words, you do not have to do anything extra to lock the door, just pull it closed. This can be good or bad depending on how you look at it (it can be easy to lock yourself out this way). The dead bolt on the other hand always requires an extra step to lock the door (put the key ...


10

Good info here: http://www.lockwiki.com/index.php/Schlage_SecureKey


10

Installation instructions depend on the exact model of "electronic door lock" you purchase. Most of the low-cost/self-contained units install into a standard cylindrical-lock bore (ie, in place of the normal knobset and/or deadbolt), occasionally with another hole or two to anchor them firmly in place. That's an easy retrofit. Commercial-type units, where ...


9

The problem here of course is that snow/freezing rain gets into the lock and freezes. With a house, this isn't normally a problem for a few reasons. First, you use it often enough that it doesn't get that bad, and second the inside of the house is warm, which prevents water from freezing inside the lock (unless it gets really, really cold I suppose). You ...


9

Remove the pins from the hinges. You should then be able to pivot the door out of the opening. Once the door is removed you can remove the screws that hold in the strike bolt.


8

It's called a tarnish or patina and is caused by oxidation of the copper in the bronze. The sun's heat will accelerate that reaction somewhat compared to one in a cooler place. If you don't like it, simply clean the lockset with Brasso when it starts to look discolored. It will take some elbow grease the first time because the tarnish has had time to ...


7

I agree with Jeff and Mike's answers, but you also have to make sure the lock was installed correctly. When I bought my house and changed the locks, I found out that the strike plates installed (deadbolt and doorknob) on the front door were only screwed into the trim with 1/4" screws. It wouldn't have taken much force at all to rip them right out. (My guess ...


7

You may have a deadlocking latch bolt, which in addition to a normal door latch has a plunger. When this plunger is retracted (which happens when the door is closed), the spring loaded mechanism on the latch is disabled. This prevents someone from using the credit card trick to open the door from the outside, so the only way to open the door is by unlocking ...


7

Looks like they had a "jimmy-proof deadbolt" on the door. You should be able to pickup one at any major hardware store.


7

You can try a different search phrase as "Thumb Turn Security Latch". There is a seller on eBay that has new stock available in range of finishes. Here is a picture of the offering. Considering the price you may just want to consider purchasing new units instead of trying to locate parts for the old ones that are broken. The trade name for these seems ...


6

As for expanding the hole, I am still confident this post will answer your question. Regarding the Schlage deadbolts, these are not great deadbolts. If you really want high security, you need to look at Mult-T-Lock or Medeco. These are far more secure for a number of reasons. First, they are made of much harder metals - if you feel them compared to ...


6

For locks that are in such bad shape that one is unable to get graphite powder in it, you can first use a little bit of LPS 1 (Greaseless lubricant). Do not use any kind of silicone lube, that's FAR worse than WD-40 (I had a guy come in with a couple locks he'd done that to, it ended up costing him a good bit of labor for me to undo that mess)!


6

Before the key gets stuck, use graphite to lubricate the lock. When the key gets stuck, there's nothing preventing you from using the other side of a lock (it's not the same keyhole). If you can't gently unstick the key (forcefully removing a key may bend the pins in the lock, rendering it useless), then it's probably easiest to replace the entire lock. ...


5

First, unlock the door. Now place a piece of tape across the small knob you use to lock/unlock the door so that it doesn't move. Next, take off the handle and glue the knob in place so that it cannot be operated. Re-install the handle.


5

You could fit a slide bolt on the frame of the door, and then attach a secondary pull string (or keep a separate pole and hook) to operate the bolt.


5

If you are not opposed to replacing the ladder, they do make attic ladders with integrated locks (i.e. Fakro Insulated Wood Attic Stair Ladder. It looks like you need a special "handle" mounted on a 3 foot pole to lock and unlock the latch. I'm not sure if these locks can be accessed from the top, but it is at least worth looking at. If you prefer to ...


5

take the lock to your local home store that carries this line of locks. they will remove the core and put it in a SmartKey Reset Cradle. this returns the lock to an unprogrammed state. there is no way to do this yourself without disassembling the lock core, and there's about a bazillion point 2 pieces in there.


5

Get some lock deicer/lubricant. It's sold specifically for this and contains graphite and methanol. Shake well before applying. The methanol removes water and oil from the lock mechanism and leaves behind graphite well flooded through every nook and cranny in the device. You use graphite because it's a dry lubricant and unlike oil, it doesn't attract dirt or ...


5

If I understand correctly, it is probably just a pressure fit. You should be able to pry it so it comes straight out the edge of the door from where the cylinder sits. This picture is just of a normal doorknob, but same principle applies.


4

I completely agree that having more locks can be helpful but also keep in mind that the brand and model also play an important part. AFAIK, some locks (including deadbolts) are still susceptible to bump-key techniques. Sometimes you really do get what you pay for. ;-) -M


4

From a security point of view two locks is better than one. Some insurance companies might require that you have a deadbolt type lock, offering reduced premiums if you have a recognised standard one fitted.


4

You say you'll be removing the old lock, so why not replace the mortise locks and if you buy 5 or 7 lever ones they'll be more secure than the bored cylindrical lock. Make sure you buy one with the handle spindle in the same position as the old lock. When it comes to the door jamb, a lot of mortise locks have a "box keep" rather than just a plate defining ...


4

I would wonder if there are any fire code issues with locking it, beyond the issues of locking and releasing it from some distance away. Though if there isn't an "Exit" sign on it, I don't imagine it's required by fire code. Do you have or intend to install an alarm? It would be a simple matter to make the alarm include a sensor for the ladder being ...


4

You need to remove the key set section as pictured on the left. It may be very corroded and require a bit of persuasion to split the halves and remove from the deadbolt assembly. Once you have removed the keyway from both sides, there should be nothing but a couple of screws on the striker/jam plate holding the bolt assembly.


4

It sounds to me like something in the knob has worn out (eg, a metal locking mechanism has broken off or been worn down). If this is the case, there's not much chance that you'll be able to [easily] fix it. If it was me, I'd just replace the knob. You may also be able to swap it with another knob in a location where you don't need a working lock.


4

Another option is to take the lock to a locksmith and have it re-keyed to a new key (and get a bunch of copies of that key). I have heard that this can cost less than the cost of a new doorknob. However, as this would involve removing the knob and taking it the locksmith, I would probably just get a new knob and replace it (unless you really like the ...


4

I've had a cheap MasterLock for over a decade on my shed and it's not showing any signs of wear. Only downside is that they've been known to have a security flaw (a little internet searching will describe how to determine the combination with only a little trial and error). After a storm, I turn it sideways and the water just pours out, so it's definitely ...


4

This page on YaleDoor.co.uk http://www.yaledoor.co.uk/blog/post/2012/05/01/Home-Door-Lock-Maintenance-Tips.aspx Says the opposite ... "Any, “all purpose” oil or lubrication will do the job, but be sure never to lubricate your door locks with powder graphite, as it will do more harm than good. Simply insert the straw (which is normally supplied with ...


4

I have a residential Family Care Home and the state requires that a business such as this have doors throughout the home that will not lock regardless of whether it has a locking mechanism. I could have gone out and purchased the ones that won't lock,but they cost almost $40 a piece (I needed 6), so I placed a magnetic metal strip over the door jamb to ...



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