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3

Use 2x material... it's probably cheaper, stronger, and gives you more surface to screw into. (edit: this was based on the original question -- 'use 1x or 2x material?') 1/2" ply would probably be fine, but I'd suggest you upgrade to at least 5/8" ply (or whatever the horrible version of that is in the box stores -- 19/32"?!?) to skin the exterior. ...


2

Unless height is an issue, why limit yourself to a 6" deep timber? It's the height that's going to give the beam its rigidity. Why not look at an 8" or 9" deep floor joists? We use 9" x 2" and even 9" x 3" floor joists all the time. Although, the last bridge we made (over a stream to a rough old fishing pond so aesthetics wasn't an issue) we used 'open ...


5

The Scout Pioneering website contains information on how to build several bridges. I am guessing that most of these are more complicated than what you had in mind, so if you want something simpler, you can attempt flat span bridge using 2x12's for a span between 14 and 18 feet. On the latter page the author goes on to say that "[i]f you are thinking of ...


3

In architecture we use laminated timber in order to reach long distances. It would be impossible otherwise. Here is just to reduce weak spots. By the way, that is not a real laminated timber but just a pair of beam. laminated beam are mated differently: ___________ ____________ ___________ _____ ___________ ___________ ______ ___________ ____________ ...


9

It has to do more with the quality of the the 2x6s vs the 4x6. A 4x6 x 12 board would have to be clear all the way through, with no cracks or knots. Most softwood logs won't produce this board, and if it cracks, it is likely to break more easily vs the 2x6. On the other hand, drilling a bunch of holes in a 2x6 does it no favors, though because the two ...


7

Boards that are laminated in some fashion get an overall durability increase (not necessarily net strength increase) because they no longer suffer from a single grain dimension through the thickness. Primarily, in the case you describe a split or warp will not impact the whole board, only half of it. A properly laminated beam (like VersaLam or Glulam) does ...


3

From the information you've provided, it seems as though the post is likely not needed. However, none of us have been to your house, seen the plans, nor talked to the builder or engineer. So we cannot say for sure, what the purpose of the post is. I've seen temporary braces, and even tools left behind on builds. So it's definitely possible that it's no ...


2

These are definitely just temp posts, probably to help during the metal beam install. if supporting they would be capped and anchored around metal they are 2x4s - I can't imagine a house loading using 2x4s they are too close to the metal post. If they meant anything at all there would be some sort of space between the metal post and them - at least 5-10 ...



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