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40

I'm not familiar with USA house construction methods (I live in the UK) but speaking as a mechanical engineer, I wouldn't even stand near that thing while debating how safe it was. That bolt is presumably supposed to be fixing the post against it popping out sideways. I suppose it was meant to be bolted to a metal beam underneath the concrete. So either ...


22

This should make the hairs on your neck stand-up. What my first thought was is the sand fill that the concrete was floated on has been undermined. Is there a sump pump well in the basement? And if so, do you live in an area that gets a lot of rain? Also, what's missing from that photo ( that hasn't been installed) is a concrete footing of some sort to ...


18

If this is a load-bearing wall you'll want to frame the pet door in, just like you would a window. This will allow you to properly carry the load down, and around the pet door. The king studs should go all the way from the top plate, down to the bottom plate. The header will be made up of 1/2" plywood/OSB, sandwiched between two 2x4s. If you don't want ...


17

Without looking at blueprints, all you can do is make an educated guess. Possible methods include: If it's an exterior wall, it's almost always load bearing. If the joists are not continuous over the wall (they are cut short and meet on top of the wall) it is load bearing. If there is a load bearing wall or beam directly above or below this wall, it is ...


14

The methods you describe are probably the best, but if you can actually see the wall, a load bearing wall will generally have a double top plate but a non-load bearing wall usually won't.


12

Any information you'd glean from this discussion is untrustworthy for the following reasons: No photos. They often reveal issues not mentioned in your short description. No dimensions. In engineering, dimensions are key. No information about construction era or age. That would tell us a lot about common building techniques. No liability. Anyone telling ...


12

It is not safe to simply cut a hole in the studs, and while the safe probably would transfer the load, you do not know that the safe was designed to transfer vertical loads, or how it will react. The consequences of a mistake here could be severe long term. Therefore the proper course of action is to reframe the wall. Generally you would do this by adding ...


11

Definitely get a home inspector to look over tbe place; there may be other damage from this subsidence... If the price is attractive enough that you'd consider trying to have this redone properly, I'd suggest getting an engineer who know the local soil and hydrology to look at it and tell you what it'd cost to redo this properly. Better to spend a few ...


10

For many houses, a wall running down the middle of the house, parallel with the roof ridgeline is nearly always load bearing. You also may have easier access to the basement to check joist direction.


10

3 for two reasons: Your walls are not meant for dynamic, changing loads such as those caused by swingset motions, so you don't know the potential damage long term; and I would hesitate very much to buy a house which had a physical connection to another person's house via a toy.


9

Can't say for sure why they did it in your situation, without knowing a bit more details. Typically blocking is installed to prevent framing members from twisting or warping, and to stiffen and add strength to the wall. Though it's also common to install blocking, where fire stops are required by code. Blocking can also provide an attachment point for ...


9

It has to do more with the quality of the the 2x6s vs the 4x6. A 4x6 x 12 board would have to be clear all the way through, with no cracks or knots. Most softwood logs won't produce this board, and if it cracks, it is likely to break more easily vs the 2x6. On the other hand, drilling a bunch of holes in a 2x6 does it no favors, though because the two ...


8

If your gut is telling you to run then run. But if you are still thinking about purchasing the house I would make sure that the builder gives you something in writing to back up what he/she is saying. If they are wiling to put it in writing then all is good, as long as they can be found if something does go wrong. Also ask the builder for the compaction ...


7

OK normally load bearing walls will have 2 plates on top. But having 2 plates means nothing. People frame however they learned to or want. Checking door header also means nothing. Some people flip all door headers - doesn't make the wall load bearing. You can never get into the head of the guy who framed your house. I worked for a construction ...


7

EDIT: On second look, the drawing actually tells us. There's a note box to the right: TYP BEARING WALL 2x4 stud 16" O.C. on Continuous footing. The dashed line around the wall indicates the footing. ORIGINAL: If I'm reading the drawing correctly, IT DEFINITELY IS. For the sake of this discussion, north is the top of the drawing. There appears to be a ...


7

When modifying load bearing walls and betting your house on the results, you are well served to hire a civil engineer to analyze the situation and tell you what will work, rather than guessing. It should not be terribly expensive.


7

Boards that are laminated in some fashion get an overall durability increase (not necessarily net strength increase) because they no longer suffer from a single grain dimension through the thickness. Primarily, in the case you describe a split or warp will not impact the whole board, only half of it. A properly laminated beam (like VersaLam or Glulam) does ...


6

Look where the joists meet the ridge beam where you're going to put the door. Get some dimensional lumber about 4 feet long, at least as thick as the existing beam. Nailing a couple of 2x6's together would probably suffice in the short term. Give yourself enough room to work, and using a jack post and this 4 foot beam segment, support the joists in the ...


6

I really don't know where to start on this question. There are several steps that need to be done, and soon before any serious damage is done. First, you need to stabilize the situation. Several joists must be supported at once via a temp bridge support ( 2, 2X8's upright, spanning several joists) held up by your temp house jack, but two would be better. ...


6

The Uni Knot is a slip knot that is adjustable. The Hangman's Noose is not typically considered adjustable. The Hangman's Noose when the loop is under load is pulling on the top of the knot as well as conventionally on the bottom of the knot which is truly tightening the knot. They are typically only used with thicker ropes because otherwise you run a risk ...


6

International Residential Code 2012 Chapter 6 Wall Construction Section R602 Wood Wall Framing R602.7 Headers. For header spans see Tables R502.5(1) and R502.5(2). So if you're on the top floor, you can use 2 2x4's (unless the building is 36' wide, in which case you'll need 2 2x6's). If you have a floor above, you'll need 2 2x6's ...


6

You need an engineer's advice. This is not something free web advice should be trusted for; the consequences of getting it wrong could be severe and the answer may involve much more than that one beam to properly transfer the forces to the frame and foundation. I had something similar done and had to have a floor joist sistered with steel c-beam and specific ...


6

Typical of firestopping, so that (when sheeted with drywall) flames cannot run the full height of the wall inside the stud bay. It would be better to move (up or down a few inches), rather than remove the blocking, for that reason. While it may be unfinished at present, the builders presumably intended that it be ready for drywall if/when you or some other ...


6

The blocks are known as Dwangs or Nogs here, and was confused about what blocks you were asking about. But they are used for stiffening the wall and attaching drywall, as well as mounting points for basins etc. Not heard of them being used for firestopping, and does not make a lot of sense to me. Recommendation from BRANZ (local building regulation ...


6

No this is not okay - especially for a new house. If the builder is saying it is okay, run away from this house because you have no idea what else they have screwed up. You can't put a post on a slab if it is structural (i.e. not decorative). A concrete slab is not designed (and shouldn't be) to handle structural loads like this. The concrete looks fine. ...


6

The plan will make the 4x4s look good. However, you did say they are LOAD BEARING, an epoxy is great for holding things together or protecting things, but terrible at withstanding stress from a load. The posts function is to transfer the weight above it to the ground, so filling in the rotted parts of the wood with epoxy is just hiding the problem. Most ...


5

Chris's advice to put a temp brace under a few joists is exactly right. Practically speaking, the 20 foot wall probably has a double 2X4 top plate and you will need to remove two studs to frame for your new 32 or 36 inch door. It is very unlikely that you will see any deflection of these 2X4's when you remove just two studs. Regardless, it is easy to put in ...


5

My vote is for option 3. I've never seen angled pipe flanges either, but you could make a couple for this purpose out of 1-ft lengths of pressure-treated 2x6 with a pipe-sized 45-degree hole drilled in each. Then anchor those to the walls vertically. That would give you the added advantage of spreading your anchors out a bit in the cinderblock, rather ...


5

This may be a problem or non-problem depending on the foundation construction. You'll be much better off consulting an expert who knows how foundations are built in your area and how to diagnose them. One option is that the foundation is designed with separate large thick concrete pads that bear the load and then the space between them is filled with ...


5

The Scout Pioneering website contains information on how to build several bridges. I am guessing that most of these are more complicated than what you had in mind, so if you want something simpler, you can attempt flat span bridge using 2x12's for a span between 14 and 18 feet. On the latter page the author goes on to say that "[i]f you are thinking of ...



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