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2

As @mikes said, this is a replacement part - NOT a complete fixture. Rather than cobbling up some mess of electrical tape, just buy a plain porcelain (or plastic, though oddly the porcelain are often cheaper, and I assume the reason you are contemplating this at all is to keep costs down) lampholder that is designed for the job, and don't create an ...


4

You are right to be concerned about safety. Attempting to use the sockets as they are is a hazard, the exposed conductors are an electrical and safety concern. What you have is a replacement part for repairing a damaged fixture.


4

That component is called the starter. its a really inexpensive component that regulary fails on florescent lights. to remove you turn 1/4 rotations left and pull out. to check that its in turn right until it stops whilst pressing. Any good lighting store will have replacement starters for your light. Otherwise the things to check would be. check ...


1

Add hickeys until you can hang a box like this from it. Grind off the tabs if you don't like them, paint it to match the ceiling. You will probably need a bushing to make the connection from the last hickey to the new box. Having pulled the wires through the hickeys, install the relay. Add a cross bar to hang more hickeys, from which you hang the light. ...


4

Yes, using non-dimmable lamps on a dimmer will eventually damage one or the other. Usually the lamps will suffer, specifically the driver in the LED. Using the dimmer on full high should be OK, but you have to be careful to keep it that way.


0

If you didn't need the color changing box I'd say no problem. I have landscape lights that run 12VAC and changed the bulbs over to LEDs way before anyone had thought of it. They have been in there for probably 7 years with not one failure. The little box that runs the remote is a different story. It may or may not work right, but I don't think the LEDs ...


0

I have the same situation. When I turn my Christmas lights off outside by an outdoor multi plug switch they glow very faintly. I noticed that some LED strands when unplugged from the wall altogether still glow faintly for a minute. So I don't think its a leakage as much as power still in the power cords, probably 100ft or more when you add it all together ...


1

As stated, this is not really possible with normal relay switches. you CAN however add a toggle relay board which will toggle each time it sensors state changes from the PIR or motion sensor. LINK HERE These boards can be found/built at any electronics store. You could probably find a commercial kit online somewhere (besides the provided link) In this ...


1

A switch like this either does not exist, or is not commercially available. It sounds like you need to teach the folks you live with (and maybe yourself), how to turn off lights when they (you) leave a room. Occupancy sensors; like the one you have, turn on when they detect motion, and have a delayed off when no more motion is detected. In some cases ...


3

Put the sensor in the space you are trying to light, and suddenly this "common need" becomes "not a need at all" which is why you can't find them, since that's how it's done, when done conventionally. Either move the switch into the room or get a remote sensor switch and put the sensor in the room.


0

Mine flicker when they are on depending on the dimmer setting of the LEDs and the dimmer settings of the incandescent lights on the same circuit. Part of the problem is noisy dimmers and part is the LEDs susceptibility to small voltage changes, outside the noisy dimmers. I just change one dimmer setting slightly and it stops; until the next time.


2

Where can the problem be? The problem might be that you didn't take into account that neutral is usually tied to ground/earth. In the US this typically occurs at the point the supply enters the building.


0

Yeah - I'd agree that LED strips are the way forward here. If you want to get a smooth 'lightbar' effect, then you should fit your LED tape into a diffusing (frosted) tape extrusion - which blurs the individual LED 'dots' to give a more even glow. But if you're installing under cabinets (basically out of sight) rather than in the crook of your counters, ...


1

The white wire (neutral) coming in should be directly connected to the white wire on the lamp. The black wire coming in is the hot line. The toggle switch is used to either break or connect the hot line. The black wire coming in to the lamp should be connected to one of the black wires of the switch. The other black wire from the switch should be connected ...


3

There's no problem doing what you want. Just make sure the junction is in a box, and the box is proper size and accessible.


3

It's impossible to say for sure without inspecting the lamp, but it sounds like a bad CFL. Have you already checked to be sure that the bulb is screwed in securely? You could use a multimeter to check for continuity through all of the wires to the socket (which can be difficult when trying to find an intermittent connection since digital multimeters ...


1

As noted, this is not an entry level project. (And drywall is the enemy, but fear not.) Safety notes: turn off circuits that you're messing with. Have a tester that tells you if a wire is hot. Don't assume that wire colors mean anything. If you think there's a chance that you'll hit plumbing/ gas/ other wires/ etc when drilling, then open up the drywall and ...


0

As I interpret the code, no. That "T" splice isn't allowed, and not really elegant IMHO. 2011 NEC 110.14 Electrical Connections (B) Splices. Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices identified for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. ... Where the article says you could solder the joint, in your ...


0

So, it's not the fan that has that wiring config, that's the romex feeding the box; right? The fan likely has a blue wire, or another of some color, which is used to independently switch the light kit. So, the short answer is yes but you'll have to figure out which wire in the box goes to which switch and cap off the one you don't want to use. This will ...


0

First step is to identify the switch that the power comes in to. The other two switches will just be farther down the line. Disconnect all of those switches and put wire nuts on all of the wires individually. On the first switch, figure out which wires go to the lights and wire nut those to the incoming power wires. Now none of the switches control anything ...


0

Jon, First of all, I want to make a couple of points, A home owner can do any wiring or electrical on his own home so long as he is not actually tying it into the power grid and he does it up to code. Most of the codes are common sense so it is really easy if you step back and use your head. There is no reason to be scared, a system like you are talking ...


0

Any way you like. Connect your in-wall timer to a relay with a 1-pole coil that controls two poles. Replace your timer with a two-pole timer. To me, either of those are "simpler" than anything having to be done to three separate locations...but none of it is very complex. Add photosensors. Replace the lights with fixtures that have built-in sensors ...


0

No, unlike LEDs, the fluorescent bulb itself (or rather the tube) can not use power when it burns out, however, the ballasts may use a trace of energy whether or not there is a bulb installed. Simply removing the bulbs should have no effect so there really are no downsides or problems with just leaving your bulbs the way it is unless you end up needing more ...


0

The answer is yes. Would I do it in my home? Maybe. The biggest concern is that if you plug in a heavy enough load, your lights might dim due to the in-rush current. Generally a properly wired home should have dedicated lighting circuits that are apart from receptacles. Overloaded neutrals are fire hazards. I see this weekly and loose neutrals. For the ...


0

You can remove the lamps that are not working. This will only let the one good light to work. Perhaps one light was faulty already before you moved in and the other was ready to go bad. It will use less power and will be of no concern, I believe you operate it with only one lamp. So you will have an idea what the condition of the lamps are, and using the ...


1

You can always use the concept of a sun tube, a mirrored tube that runs from the roof to a room. If the walls of the alcove that houses the skylight are not already white, paint them white. It will reflect more light than a darker color. If you really want as much light from the skylight as possible, mount mirrors on the walls of the skylight.


2

Yes, dimmers reduce energy consumption of dimmable LEDs. Unlike incandescent bulbs, the electricity used is fairly linear with the light output; at 50% brightness it should use roughly 50% of the power. Generally speaking, dimming will allow the bulbs to run cooler and extend their life spans. There may be some exceptions for some particular bulbs with ...


1

Presumably the black and red wires are the hot and switched, corresponding to your current switch. If the box is gounded, that one's good. The issue (depending how the box is wired) may be that the timer needs a neutral connection, and if the box only has "switch loops" run to it it may not currently HAVE a neutral wire - in which case you need to get one ...



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