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Sounds like the power is trying to find a neutral and thats the residual you are getting. Dead leg. Does your switch interrupt the common(hot) and then feed the lights. I wired lights once interrupting the neutral instead and electricity will seek out a ground/neutral (air, back feed, etc...). Should take power from source(breaker box) to a junction box, at ...


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I have this type of fixture over the tub. You have to pull the outside edge of the fixture that rests against the ceiling. Then you have to reach in with your fingers to squeeze the 'triangle shape' wire clips in order to lower the fixture. Once the light has been pulled down far enough, you have to squeeze the wire clip together in order to remove the ends ...


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You need a "switch dummy". Also commonly called a "switch blank", "blank insert" and "blank filler". The big box stores may not carry this item, if not, electrical supply house should have available.


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You have two questions. To the first question of how to get the wire out of the existing box, you would mount a surface-mount box on top of the existing box and put a blank face place on it. Then the plastic wire mold could come out of the raised, blank box and run to the new raised box. The wire must always travel inside an approved box or conduit. You ...


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Based on your diagram, it appears as though it should be wired like this... Notice that the white wire to the switch, has been marked with black tape/marker at both ends. This signifies that it's being used as an ungrounded (hot) conductor. When hooking up the GFCI, make sure you use the LINE terminals. If you use the LOAD terminals, the device will ...


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When wiring with cable, and the feed is coming to the light, the standard is to feed a single pole with the white wire (the code requires this) and return with the black wire. If you connect the white wire to the other white wires at the light fixture you create a dead short when the switch is closed this would trip the GFCI if you are downstream from it. ...


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A three-way, or single pole double throw (SPDT), switch should be able to do what you want. Connect the ungrounded (hot) line feeding the switch, to the common terminal on the three-way switch. Connect the ungrounded (hot) line feeding the main light, to one of the switched terminals on the three-way switch. Connect the ungrounded (hot) line feeding the ...


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wrap the bulb in saran wrap or equivalent. It will provide a great grip and reduce risk of flying fragments should the bulb break. Wear a protective glove and glasses too.


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You have a 2-way switch. One of the black wires is probably the line and the other carries power to some other device on the circuit; they are connected together by one using the backstab connector and the other the screw. The red wire is probably the load (it's also possible the red is the line and you have two loads controlled by the switch).


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If this installation has only a single switch for the light (not a 3 way or coming on automatically with the garage door opening). I think it is likely that power was fed to the light fixture first where the black incoming was nutted together with the black to the garage door opener and the black wire to the switch, the white from the power wire nutted to ...


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This is not a kludge, he took 2 hots off 1 circuit. To add an outlet tie the white for the outlet to the white in the lamp box. tie the grounds (copper wires together). Now tie your black to the red. connect the black to the outlet brass colored screw, white to the silver screw and copper to green screw on the outlet.


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Open up the switch box, and have a look how it's wired. Without more information (photos, diagrams, etc.), the following information is an educated guess. One of the colored lines (red, black) is likely always hot, while the other is controlled by the switch. The white is most probably neutral, and the bare/green is almost certainly ground. If this is the ...


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I would sell this kit and go with another one that is compatible with LED lighting and your wiring scheme. This one is not. If you're not into that ... Looking at the manual for this 45607 dimming 3-way... each smart device needs always-hot (which I show as black here), neutral and ground, which is fairly typical of smart devices. They need power ...


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Updating this for posterity and to share our solution. Background -- 4 pin cfls with Sylvania Quicktronics residential series ballast, QTR 1x26T4 (120v). 6 can lights on the same switch. Same bad behavior as the OP -- some lights came on; others didn't in a totally random fashion. On the possibility that there were simply too many lights on that circuit, ...


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Replace the fixture -- the driver's failed and isn't starting up properly.


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It sounds like you do not have a neutral at either of the current 3-way switches. This was common in the past, although new wiring now requires a neutral at every switch. The white wire in old 3-way setups is usually the common wire, either carrying line hot to the switch or carrying hot to the fixture after the second switch. If so, the white wire was ...


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Based on what you've been able to discern so far -- the black wire in cable #1 is from switch #1 and the red wire in cable #1 is from switch #2. Cable #2 goes off to the other two kitchen lights and cable #3 goes off to the pot lights. This means that for the configuration you want, connect: the black from cable #1 to the black from cable #2 and the ...


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I don't know if it's really useful to compare a 120V LED bulb to the stuff you can cobble together from radio shack. First of all the commercial bulbs include a significant amount of circuitry to adjust the voltage, compensate for dimmers, etc. Most bulbs actually accept a wide range of input voltages. And of course with an AC circuit there is no such thing ...


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Yes, there are. Some speak the X10 carrier-current signalling protocol, some use more modern communications. Obviously you would need to buy compatible components. A good home-automation catalog or a website on that topic could give you product suggestions; we don't generally do that here.


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Three way switches (dimming or not) have a common terminal and two traveler terminals. The common terminal of one switch in the pair is connected to the hot source and on the other switch, the common is connected to the fixture. On your dimmer switch, the common is the reddish colored screw on the bottom of the first picture. It has a loop because it is the ...


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The color of wires isn't important, and the reason the black wire loops through the one screw is because it's a home run (supply) that also feeds other parts of the circuit. Maintain the positions of the wires based on screw color and orientation (odd-colored screw and the one on the same side vs. the opposite side) and you should be fine.


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It sounds as if the light is being controlled by a single 3-way switch. The hot lead is run to the common and two switched hots are run to the traveller terminals. You could create a master switch by adding a single pole switch that interrupts the hot lead before it goes to the 3-way. You could expand the box holding the switch to a 2-gang type and wire the ...


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Some LED's just won't dim, or dim well. If it didn't say dimmable on the package, it probably isn't. G9's are typically 120v, so they shouldn't need a driver unless you bought something that is low voltage (12 or 24v). You may need a better or worse dimmer. First check with the lamp manufacturer. If they are reputable they will have a list of commonly ...


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My questions are... Is it normal to have one transformer per bulb? Yes, though not always. Track fittings in particular use many bulbs (usually 12V MR16) off a single transformer/driver. My assumption is that the LED bulbs flash because the transformer is not the right one, is this correct and which one should I get? I also assume the other ...


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I see no reason that you would not be able to disconnect the Cree device (white connector) from the black socket. Then cut and strip the red and black wires about a 1/2 inch each. Make sure that power is turned off, remove the wire nuts which will free the black socket. Twist each wire from the Cree fixture a wire that had a wire nut on it. That should ...


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Just looking the fixture itself, and giving the probability of other points of failure... I would guess maybe the ballast on the lamp has given out (probably the silver box in the image). A ballast steps up the voltage so the lamp operate correctly, and they fail on occasion. Finding the replacement ballast might be the hard part and sometimes expensive. ...


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If like the one we have the light is remote controlled from a small keypad or rotary control. This operates either wirelessly or wired. The actual dimming is done in the housing where the lamp and fan motor are located. The solid state device that does the dimming has failed. Why? The light that was in the fan....you did replace it didn't you ? probably ...


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I use separate detectors from lamps, and here's how I wire them. First, I use the type of sensor which has its own neutral (rather than the type which has no neutral and sits in a "switch loop".) This is very important. The sensor needs to be able to power itself independently (via hot and neutral) and not care what if anything is on the output. I run ...


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Some are. You can also get transformers designed to mount into a 1/2” knockout in a junction box. The transformer proper sits outside the box. You can also find transformers which sit on the outside of a metal box cover. These are very common in 24VAC. These are typically true transformers. You may be using the word "transformer" loosely to mean ...


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I think ThreePhaseEel and A.I. Berveleri have figured this out. That circuit was originally wired for a light only, with a 12/2 cable going up there - hot (black), neutral (white) and ground. Somebody added the fan later on, and they cheated. They used ground for neutral. They used black for the fan and white for the light. First, mark your wires. ...


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According to any number of help pages, e.g. this one, MR16 sockets and bulbs are designed for 5 to 24 V operation. It's highly likely that's what you've got here. So the question becomes: what is your current operating voltage, and what is the voltage requirement for the LED bulbs you bought? If there's a mismatch, that's why things don't work.


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This symptom is impossible without silicon electronics being involved in the delivery of power. Passive wires and windings are not capable of causing this. Common problems are common, and my first take is usually correct - a series connected old-style smart device. But Carl Witthoft has an interesting theory: these are probably low voltage bulbs. We know ...



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