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Similar things exist, but they usually replace the switch, not connect to the switched outlet. Googling "wall mount wireless outlet switch" brings up several relevant products. To make this work you would turn off the power. Then remove the existing light switch. Depending on how it is wired you may need to connect some of the existing wires or just cap ...


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it's usually pretty easy to change the fittings: make sure electricity is off (turn off the breaker that powers the light) double check the electricity is off loosen the screws that hold it up on the ceiling and keep the wires attached. Remember which wire is connected to the ground (bare/green or yellow green striped wire), live (red, orange or blue ...


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Personally, I say it's personal preference. We found we like daylight 5000K better so as bulbs burn out I get new LEDs (previously CFLs) that are daylight. Eventually they'll all be changed but for now they are mixed and we don't mind. What's your preference? That's what I'd go with.


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Try adding a single halogen along with a few LED's, and see if that fixes things. If it does you probably do actually have a dimmer, you just don't know it. Or the power supply doesn't understand the load and keeps switching itself on and off. And note this: CAUTION: Recommended for use with 50-60Hz AC magnetic transformers or regulated DC power ...


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If the last light goes out when the second to last is removed, the wiring error may be: Where electricity travels through the second to last bulb, on it's way to the last bulb. If so the last two bulbs may also have been dimmer than normal (if they are incandescent). The bulb type matters here: using CFL or LED lights during testing can add to the ...


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All dimmers buzz a little bit. They "chop up" the AC waveform, which creates mechanical vibration (buzzing) and electrical noise (EMI). Usually they are the most quiet when the lights are fully bright, and get louder as you dim the bulbs. Here is a good page that describes what is happening. A different dimmer may be quieter, although Leviton does make ...


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those bits of metal you see on each claw are unlikely to be for fixing to the ceiling. they're probably fasteners for the claw to the base - which would indicate that the claws can be rotated (as to release the cover). there might be a trick to their rotation such as only one direction or pull-down-then-rotate...


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How many lights in total? The total wattage of all globes may exceed the switch/circuit rating? i.e. 6x 100W globes on a 400W dimmer or switch. You could possibly run two parallel sets to reduce the load, but this will decrease brightness. e.g. use (+)---switch<===:=:=:===>---(g) rather than (+)---switch---.-.-.-.-.-.---(g)


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I'd use wire nuts to attach those to standard lamp cord, and put a standard plug at the other end...


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If the dimmer itself is buzzing my suggestion is to replace the dimmer. I would only use a high quality dimmer like Lutron, Cooper, or a higher end Leviton. Also don't get a rotary dimmer. Many cheap rotary dimmers are low quality with little filtering.


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It should be noted that while PAR LED's have the form factor of traditional halogen PAR bulbs, they do not have the parabolic reflectors of traditional PAR's. The light emitting diode cannot be suspended in space, in the middle of a reflector the way a filament can, at least not yet, it has to be mounted on a board. So, all of the light is coming directly ...


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While this does not directly answer your question, perhaps it is worth your while to persuade the electric utility to adjust their equipment to get your service up to snuff. Distribution transformers have various closely spaced taps on them just for fine tuning delivery voltage. Utilities tend to be motivated to deliver full voltage because low voltage ...


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It looks a bit of an unusual setup, but I'll hazard a guess that there is either a further light on the circuit either fed from one of the switches or the power from the circuit is fed in at a switch and feeds on from here to another light (or lights). (Obviously, you need to verify this, as we can't tell how it's wired from just one photograph). From left ...


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There are fluorescent ballasts that accept a wide voltage input range (just as the LED ballasts that other answers are suggesting.) Since you appear to want fluorescent lights, those would be what to seek out. 100-277VAC is a typical input range, as is 120-277VAC (277 is common in 3-phase systems where a lot of commercial lighting is installed.) If you ...


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Since you didn't specify your country, I'm assuming that you have a normal mains voltage of 230 or 240 volts. Yes, low voltage will cause your incandescent lights to dim. On the good side, they will last a lot longer than normal. If you want to try staying with incandescent lights, you can try higher wattages. For example, replace a 60W light with a 100W. ...


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Since you say 150-180V is low, I assume you live in a country where the standard voltage is 230V? The first thing I would do is contact the electric company to see what they can do. It's possible there is a defect in the connection to your house from the main utility lines that's causing the abnormally-low voltage. There are probably all sorts of things ...


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Another possibility not yet mentioned would be that some kinds of light switches will 99.9% interrupt current but still let through a tiny residual amount. This is particularly true of electronic dimmers that don't use a neutral connection (many need a tiny amount of power for their control circuitry) and for self-illuminated light switches. When using ...


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All lamps have a size designation which is stated in eights of an inch (1/8"). That particular lamp will most likely not fit in your fixture if it is designed to take a standard A-lamp. That is an R30 size lamp which is 3-3/4" wide. An R20 style lamp (2-1/2" wide) would be more in line size wise with an A-lamp, which is actually an A-19.


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there are so many brands and types of LED lamps. Some get hot some do not. All lamps give off heat though...compared to a 60W or more traditional light bulb...there's most likely less heat in an LED. But to answer your question....sure you can use an LED flood there. there are many options. I like 1000bulbs.com for buying stuff for the house. pretty ...


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Read the rating carefully. If it says Max 40 w Incandescent, (CFL 9 W) then you are ok with the 11 watt bulb. This issue comes up from time to time, and it's due to a misguided belief that a 9W CFL is in all ways equivalent to a 40 incandescent. This is not true. Very simply, A 40 W element will consume and output 40 W of energy. Incandescents are ...


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Any thoughts? Plainly something is messed up. I have many times taken apart a switch and discovered that the previous homeowner was creative in their choices. A recent one: white was hot and black was neutral, ground was open, the switch was wired to interrupt the neutral, the white wire from the lamp was connected to the black wire from the wall, and ...


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If the lamp is rated for a maximum CFL bulb of 9 watts, then you shouldn't put an 11 watt bulb in it. If you do, you will be overloading the rating of the lamp by 22%.


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The power consumption permitted by the fixture is 9 watts; the bulb that you've selected is 11 watts. You've exceeded the permitted wattage, even if it is by a very small margin. Is it safe? Most of the max wattage specifications by manufacturers are conservative, so you would probably be fine. But why exceed a stated limit? I would suggest considering a ...


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I have used these inexpensive LED tape lights from Amazon.com with very good success. You can cut them down to as small as 4" pieces, and use connectors to get wire leads to connect to a driver. You'll need some low-voltage wiring to go between the tape ends and the driver. You have to calculate how much wattage you are putting on each driver, but they do ...


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Take a pair of pliers and gently squeeze the socket to tighten it. This worked like a charm on my unit.Be gentle, as you don't want to break the components inside the socket.


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In general yes. Use an LED bulb that is marked 'dimmable', and do not use it in an enclosed glass fixture -- many of the bulbs are made of plastic and can melt. Also, look for a bulb that has more even light distribution; older bulbs often had the LED elements on a rectangular bar that created 'stripes' of higher and lower intensity light, all of which ...


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LED's of any consumer wattage run cool enough to use in any incandescent-rated socket. The warning is specific to halogen incandescent bulbs, which run hotter than standard incandescents. Go for it.


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I'm assuming this is a 100 watt equivalent bulb, that is actually only running 18-20 watts. Using a 100 watt equivalent will be safe as they run much cooler than even an incandescent.


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First off, I would get approval from your landlord before making any wiring changes to your apartment. You never know, he might be friendly enough that he would hire an electrician to make the changes you want. I would first attempt to figure out how the receptacles are wired to the switch. If there is a way to separate them, then I would do that. If not, ...


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As put in the comments, you should never put a switch in the neutral of a light. Further, I am going to assume you are in a place where they use the wire colours as follows, because that seems the case in your drawing (I don't know all the world-wide colour schemes, but the most famous one that fits you image is this one I think): Brown = Phase ( = hot ) ...


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Probably the glass bulb has separated from the base. Wear eye protection and heavy gloves. Turn off power to the socket. Pull the glass portion of the bulb out forcibly, breaking it if necessary. By spinning it around several times, you might be able to keep the glass intact and simply break the wires to the base. Unscrew the base from the socket by ...


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If you're in the US, NEC likely applies. Article 402 covers fixture wires, and explains what types and sizes are allowed. Type Table 402.3 lists the types of wires allowed to be used as fixture wires. If you're going to rewire the fixture, you'll have to use a type of wire listed in this table. FFH-2 HF, HFF KF-1, KF-2, KFF-1, KFF-2 PAF, PAFF PF, PFF ...


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18g stranded wire is quite common on arms 14g stranded is often used to join the 18g arm strands, and to tie into the ceiling. This applies to North America and normal chandeliers with relatively low (<50 each) wattage bulbs.


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USA, 60hz,120v.- Using X10s (or Lutron Maestros?) it is possible if that switch has a neutral (which it'd better have) along with it's live wire. X10 fourms: If your switch boxes contain a neutral wire, you can emulate 3-way switching with a pair of "two-way", i.e., receive and transmit, wall switches and not require the traveler wire. (The switches ...



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