New answers tagged lighting
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If it is a fairly lightweight fixture, you could try a zip tie or two around the cord. This may not work depending on how hard the cord is and how heavy the lamp is. But I have used them with light weight pendants and cords that had some flex so the zip tie could squish the sheath a bit to keep it from slipping.
Another option, if there is enough space, ...
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It's fairly standard
In your case the red/white pair is probably from the switch, red probably live and white switched live (normally in my part of the world it would have red tape on it to indicate switched live). The other two twin+earth cables are mains supply and continuation to next light fitting. Your wires were connected directly to the light ...
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It depends in which country you are living in.
In the UK, Russia and Australia - C-Bus
In America - Lutron
Worldwide - Crestron (Expensive)
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I had the same problem. It is the wattage limiting black box that is bad if you used the bulbs that came with it and it doesn't work. I am an electrician so I found it to be a simple fix.
Turn off power at the switch. Open the bottom of the fan where you plugged the light in. You are basically going to bypass the little black box that goes into the lights. ...
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A good place to take a look at would be Lee Filters. On there website you can choose how much diffusion you are looking for and then they will match you with the correct gel. They have local distributers all over the US so seeing before buying is also a possibility.
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The HO bulbs require more power output to operate than regular bulbs... and that is why there is an HO ballast, to provide that extra power. You could put a regular bulb in an HO fixture, but not vice versa.
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I'd have a look through the Edmund Optics Catalog.
A search there for 'diffuser' turns up several different kinds. One of them might be what you want. The company sold me some optical cement as a private customer a few years back. That policy probably hasn't changed.
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Install a normally open switch that closes when the door no longer presses on it as it starts to open. If you want to avoid the NEC hassle use a 12 VAC system.
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There are some very sophisticated kits that actually use a motion sensor on the slider. These are very very expensive and if you have a problem down the road you are taking out a bunch of drywall. You can go this route.
However a pantry and utility room are closed off smaller spaces. I would just put an occupancy sensor near the door in each room. This ...
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Of course it is impossible to tell for sure without looking at the circuit in more detail but it looks like a 120V AC to low voltage DC power supply.
A way to troubleshoot it would be the following:
look up the voltage rating on the lights. Using a multimeter, check if this voltage is present at the output of the board. If it is, the problem is with the ...
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Grab it and twist the hell out of it to the left OR a big hammer.
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DMoore is spot on about using the 3-way occupancy sensor, but off a bit about needing to replace both switches with occupancy sensors. The occupancy sensor installation instructions should show how to connect the device to a 3-way circuit, without replacing the other switch.
Here is an example wiring diagram from the Lutron Maestro Occupancy Sensing ...
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Its been painted, and badly at that, which is going to make everything stick together. Get a utility knife and score around the edge of the flashing, a.k.a the baffle, and see if it will come off after that. Modern day recessed light baffles are held in place by three metal tabs that push on the side of the can. They are like springs. When I take my down to ...
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Wouldn't it be easier to just replace it with a 3-way occupancy switch
You can take out one of the switches but this would keep you from having to cap a box or redoing your wiring and give future flexibility.
So you will need 2 3-way occupancy switches since if you just replaced one you could possibly be turning it off.
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Timer-controlled or remote-controlled circuit breakers are available, but I've never seen them in a residential application. In addition to the breaker, you would also need a controller, which is likely cost prohibitive.
What would probably be cheaper is a standard hardwired electrical timer. If you mount it to the side of the breaker panel with a tiny ...
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I highly recommend a good set of fluorescent lamps under the cabinets instead. I know you asked about LED and you can use an LED equivalent in the same body/frame, so that would work well, and the LED's may last longer. My wife and I have a similar layout as your kitchen, including the overhead light: a big square kitchen with lots of surrounding cabinets, ...
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Since this is a temporary solution, and you're not looking to spend a bunch of money. A battery powered, touch activated light might work well.
A cord-and-plug device, might be a good temporary solution as well.
Both these solutions should attach, and detach from the cabinets without causing any permanent damage.
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Those flexible LED strips always burn out so I'd stay away from them. You'll wind up replacing it every 1.5 years and likely have to live with sections that are burned out after only 5-7 months of installation because lets face it your probably going to forget every once in a while that you left it on overnight. Much better to go with LED puck lights in my ...
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You can definitely get flexible led strips that are bright enough to do what you want. Many of them run on 12V, which you can easily get from a small power supply, and you could just plug it into an outlet on the counter.
I would put them under the cabinets; it would be easily to hide them there. Many of the strips can be had with adhesive backing, which ...
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