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4

There are a bunch of different styles of universal cross-bars, including ones that are designed to be mounted with a nipple. I'd just check your local hardware or big box store. Some examples:


3

A parallel circuit is what you're referring to. In a series circuit, if one connection is broken, the entire circuit is broken.


2

The easiest option would be to run a new cable directly from the switch, up to the ceiling fixture. You'll want to either install a larger box and a new switch, or a double switch, so the light can be controlled independently. If you're working in a home constructed of solid wood framing, you should be able to run the new cable fairly easily. Since you ...


2

Depending on the condition of the floor above your ceiling, it might be easier and cheaper to access the ceiling void through the floor. For example, if the floor upstairs is going to be renovated too, or if the floor cover is a carpet, which can be lifted and put back easily, or even better - if it is just the original floorboards, you can easily lift one ...


2

First, never notch the bottom of beams. All electrical runs should be in the center third of any timber. This is for structural support as well as protecting the electrical. If you want to keep the wall outlet switched, consider knocking out the current one gang and replace with old work two gang. Run a new line up the wall, through the top plate into ...


2

Almost certainly the ballast, unless old enough to actually have a separate starter, at which point it becomes a tossup between ballast and starter - probably not from 1992. But a 1992 ballast is certainly ripe for replacement 22 years later. They don't live forever. I have a few older ones I have not gotten around to replacing that are very ...


2

According to the National Electrical Code, you can replace the fixture without a ground as long as the outlet is GFCI protected. National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 4 Equipment for General Use Article 410 Luminaires, Lampholders, and Lamps V. Grounding 410.44 Methods of Grounding Luminaires and equipment shall be mechanically ...


2

They have them for sale on E-Bay for less than $20, they are designed to work with incandescent 3-way bulbs but I think they make them for LEDs now too. Try E-Bay


2

Yes, there are prepackaged touch switch modules whose input wire can be attached to any convenient piece of metal.


2

You've pretty much got it. If you can twist wires with wire nuts and connect them to a switch you have the technical skills needed. The hardest part is usually pulling the wire from the wall into the ceiling. Get an "old work" ceiling/light box. Cut a hole in the desired ceiling location, ensuring no joist will interfere with anchoring the old work box ...


2

From a functional point of view, you want the two switches in parallel, normally-closed but held open when the door is in its closed position, so that if either door is open the switch closes and the light comes on. The switches may control the light directly or, if they are low-voltage switches, may control a relay which controls the light. (If you're using ...


1

I don't know what the right answer is, but I'd probably go with attaching an adhesive screen, using non-shrinking plaster/spackle over that to fill in the area, then trying to tool the surface to vaguely resemble the rest of the design. If you were trying for a museum-quality repair the answer would probably be to actually take a mold of the opposite side ...


1

There are standard switches for closet doors They can be mounted in a cutout in the jamb, one for each door on each side. For your purposes, you want normally closed switches (makes contact when no pressure is applied). Many can be wired either way. When the door is slid back into the switch, the circuit opens and turns out the light. Images and links ...


1

If you can get enough access to install a BX connector on that armored cable, and if you can establish that the armor is actually a good protective ground (some armored cable only "floats" electrically), then you may be able to use a "remod box" to connect to the BX and claim your ground from the box. If none of those is true, then you really should do ...


1

Imagine a ladder. This is a good representation of a parallel circuit. A lamp on any rung of the ladder will light but it is not required that any one of the rungs have a lamp working in order for the others to work.


1

The problem may possibly lie in the ballast, the tube(s), or the switch. The simplest initial test is to replace the tube(s) with (a) new one(s) and see if the problem goes away. If so, the problem was in the tube(s). Testing the ballast and the switch is a little more complicated, but made simpler by ensuring that the fixture is equipped with (a) ...


1

I've owned a light socket exactly like that one - identical in size to an E27 but totally lacking in internal threads. Mine was simply a manufacturing screwup - the rest of the sockets on the shelf, with the same product number, had the expected internal threads. I got mine all the way home and installed before I noticed the flaw. The store was quite happy ...


1

360W 50 Hz transformer is big and expensive. Conductive losses on 30A will be large at 12V. A reasonable approach is consider 5% losses in distribution max. For this you need the average length of cable carrying 30A from source to load. They should not be daisy chained more than 50W per FPC cable unless otherwise suggested by supplier. Lets assume 10m ...


1

Is this approach correct? Basically, yes. 1mm2 twin and earth cable (I presume that is what you are proposing) could carry up to 16A, depending on where it runs, so 1.5A is well within the headroom (assuming that you aren't talking such long runs that voltage drop becomes an issue). For lighting, however, I tend to use 1.5mm2 in preference to cable ...


1

This very much sounds like a thermal issue trip issue in the fixtures. If the lights are not blinking in sync with each other then this not a power supply circuit problem. And you've tried different bulbs. It is a fixture problem.


1

There may also be an issue with the wiring above the ceiling; the copper may have oxidized, causing gradually poorer contact between two conductors. first up: try changing at least one light bulb. As you remove the old bulb, twist it several times back & forth at the "nearly tight" position to help rub the contacts clean, and do the same with the new ...


1

Having been in the business for over twenty years I would say "ceiling clouds" is a relatively new term, although I would instantly know what the customer was referring to if they used this to describe it. Personally I would refer to it as a "ceiling raft".


1

I posted a response in JoshDM's thread over on Sustainability.stackexchange.com. Replying here as well in case this might help someone. I'd been looking for a 60W equivalent candelabra base bulb for a while too. For the past few years the highest equivalent available to consumers was 40W. Now it looks like the 60's are finally making their way to market. ...



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