Hot answers tagged lighting
3
You can definitely get flexible led strips that are bright enough to do what you want. Many of them run on 12V, which you can easily get from a small power supply, and you could just plug it into an outlet on the counter.
I would put them under the cabinets; it would be easily to hide them there. Many of the strips can be had with adhesive backing, which ...
3
Of course it is impossible to tell for sure without looking at the circuit in more detail but it looks like a 120V AC to low voltage DC power supply.
A way to troubleshoot it would be the following:
look up the voltage rating on the lights. Using a multimeter, check if this voltage is present at the output of the board. If it is, the problem is with the ...
2
Since this is a temporary solution, and you're not looking to spend a bunch of money. A battery powered, touch activated light might work well.
A cord-and-plug device, might be a good temporary solution as well.
Both these solutions should attach, and detach from the cabinets without causing any permanent damage.
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DMoore is spot on about using the 3-way occupancy sensor, but off a bit about needing to replace both switches with occupancy sensors. The occupancy sensor installation instructions should show how to connect the device to a 3-way circuit, without replacing the other switch.
Here is an example wiring diagram from the Lutron Maestro Occupancy Sensing ...
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It's fairly standard
In your case the red/white pair is probably from the switch, red probably live and white switched live (normally in my part of the world it would have red tape on it to indicate switched live). The other two twin+earth cables are mains supply and continuation to next light fitting. Your wires were connected directly to the light ...
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There are some very sophisticated kits that actually use a motion sensor on the slider. These are very very expensive and if you have a problem down the road you are taking out a bunch of drywall. You can go this route.
However a pantry and utility room are closed off smaller spaces. I would just put an occupancy sensor near the door in each room. This ...
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If it is a fairly lightweight fixture, you could try a zip tie or two around the cord. This may not work depending on how hard the cord is and how heavy the lamp is. But I have used them with light weight pendants and cords that had some flex so the zip tie could squish the sheath a bit to keep it from slipping.
Another option, if there is enough space, ...
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Timer-controlled or remote-controlled circuit breakers are available, but I've never seen them in a residential application. In addition to the breaker, you would also need a controller, which is likely cost prohibitive.
What would probably be cheaper is a standard hardwired electrical timer. If you mount it to the side of the breaker panel with a tiny ...
1
Those flexible LED strips always burn out so I'd stay away from them. You'll wind up replacing it every 1.5 years and likely have to live with sections that are burned out after only 5-7 months of installation because lets face it your probably going to forget every once in a while that you left it on overnight. Much better to go with LED puck lights in my ...
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