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4

Confirm your wall switch is good. Bad switches can be intermittent. Turn off the switch and take the tubes back out and put them back in making sure they're fully snapped in. It's worth a try. Don't go buy more, but if you have other new tubes try them. If the lights work for a period of time and go out on their own, that usually indicates an over-heating ...


2

Often, electricians used ordinary black/red/green twin&earth for C but marked the black wire with red tape (to indicate "switched live") You seem to have something nonstandard, perhaps a spur (therefore missing B) without an earth to the switch? You'll have to use appropriate methods to determine what is what. See answer to similar old question ...


2

Brightness: Professional lighting Designers use lumens per metre to calculate the amount of light that is needed for the room using software on a computer in which to do this. So measuring this is unlikely but as a guide 5w per metre (around 300lm) is for highlighting, 10w is bright enough to use as work light (around 600lm). Uneven light: You do not want ...


1

What you call circuit power supply cable, electricians call the feed. A feed is a hot and its neutral uninterrupted by any device from the source (the panel). You need access to the feed to tap into that circuit. In both of your diagrams the feed is in the box with switch #1. In your 1st diagram switch #2 has the neutral but not its un-switched hot in the ...


1

If both switches are of the type 2 configuration in your diagrams, then no. You need unswitched power from somewhere to either the new light or new switch. For example, if either of the switches in the 3 gang box were of the type 1 configuration, then you have unswitched power and can add another switch. To do what you want you would need to run another ...


1

I am a commercial electrician in the US and I'm not very familiar with UK standards or code, but I should be able to help a little. From what I understand, a typical household runs lighting on a 5A fused circuit. Watts = Volts*Amps = 230*5 = 1150 Watts maximum total on the lighting circuit. It the US we us a maximum of 80% of the rated load, which would ...


1

I'm not familiar what that product specifically, but the "amplifier" in this type of lighting setup generally only reads the input from the previous upstream light strip and provides power from its power source. Therefore, the amplifier draws no current from the upstream lights. Instead of 2 power supplies, you could use one power supply larger enough to ...


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Bulbs nearing end-of-life. Ballast nearing end-of-life. The CFL in my office has been doing something similar for months - I just turn it on once a day and try to remember not to turn it off unless it will be off for hours. It's a normal failure mode for fluorescents. Buzzing and flickering not required.


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Can't find that one. Another company's model that gives numbers (after looking more - MANY don't, which seems sketchy) claims 10mA @ 24v, or 0.01A x24V = 0.24W - less than 15, yes; Quite a bit more than 0.002, though. Whether it's actually worth buying (since you mention that it's expensive) would depend on how much you pay for power and how many hours it ...


1

The "California Three-Way" could be wired similar to what you have shown. Fundamentally, it wires each wire of one three-way switch to the corresponding wire of the other; if the switches are in opposite positions, each switch will form a connection between the wiper and one other terminal, and thus the two non-wiper terminals will be connected. The ...



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