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Take a piece of duct tape and wrap it in the shape of an "O", with the sticky side of the tape on the outside. Stick the loop of tape to the face of the light bulb such that it is secure. Put your hand (four fingers) inside the loop and twist counterclockwise to loosen the bulb. Credit: https://youtu.be/NNGyhRu7c0I?t=2m


Get a light bulb changer pole at your local home improvement store or your favorite hardware store. The ones with suction cups are best for flood lights, where the face of the bulb is a little flatter, but might have a tougher time gripping smaller, rounder light bulbs where you need something that can fit up inside the fixture and grip the sides of the ...


Specifically that is a 78mm T3 halogen lamp. I have one in my bathroom as well and love it because: The bulbs are pretty cheap. Usually a couple dollars. I bought 10 on ebay for $20. They are BRIGHT. Much brighter than LED bulbs, and some fixtures can take 200 or 250W bulbs. For a light over a mirror thats only on a few minutes a day, I dont care ...


There's a company that makes suction cup hooks/hangers. You put the suction cup on an object and swing the hook. I'll bet you could attach one of these to the glass and use it to unscrew the bulb. I found this on Amazon. Edit: if the bottom of the bulb is highly curved, this won't work. The surface has to be flat or only slightly curved.


Another trick is to pull the trim out with the bulb but not all trims connect the same. Some use springs, some clip into a socket, while others are sealed. But usually works for me because I do it all the time.


Use oven mitts with silicone grips Works like magic for opening light fixtures, changing light bulbs, opening jars, and so on. If you don't have silicone oven mitts, you can try a silicone baking mat. Just push the mat against the face of the light bulb and unscrew it.


Yes. If you connect one 54 watt strip, it will draw 54 watts through the power supply. If you connect seven strips, they'll draw 378 watts.


Do you have a glass/cup with a similar circumference? If so, stretch the wrist of a latex glove around the rim. Fit the rim of the cup around the bulb and twist.


As to "why" - Halogens were trendy for a while. They are somewhat more efficient (energy in to light out) than traditional incandescent bulbs, and offered a whiter light- long before serious LED lighting was developed. Longer bulb life is another factor (again, .vs. traditional incandescents) - work has one of those miserable fixtures that the Powers That ...


A compact florescent (CFL) definitely heats up and needs to have room to dissipate that heat. It is not nearly as hot (25–33%) as an equivalently bright incandescent, but the radiation pattern is different too. An incandescent has most of its heat coming out the bulb with only a small proportion from near the narrow base. A CFL has electronics in ...


Your light fixture has hot, neutral, and ground. The diagram actually shows the switched hot and neutral connecting to the light - ground is or should be obvious, it's not shown probably to reduce clutter. As shown on the diagram, you connect the neutral from the wires supplying the location of the sensor to the fixture wire. It does not connect to the ...


You inadvertently bypassed the switch loop that controls that light fixture. There will most likely be a cable with a white wire that is not connected to any other white wire -- that cable is the switch loop in all but the newest installations.


It appears from the 45606 manual that this model is not designed for use with anything but incandescent loads: This dimmer switch is designed for use only with permanently installed incandescent lighting fixtures. Do not use it to control fluorescent lighting, transformer supplied lighting/appliances, motorized appliances or receptacles. The ...


Looks like it might be an EJ500 Astro In-Wall Timer, or similar device. Here's a link to the Installation Instructions (PDF). According to the instructions, the switch at the top of the device is an "air gap" switch. Which is "designed to turn power off for routine maintenance". You remove the battery holder "by prying left and right of the holder ...


Do you know what the part pointed to by the red arrow is for? I am not familiar with this unit but the indicated item seems like it could be a catch to allow the control panel unit to be removed from the wall mount. It is also possible that this could be a manual override switch although this seems more unlikely from looking at the pictures.


In my experience many times bulbs of this nature tend to, separate from the metal seating as you apply the pressure needed to twist them out. If this becomes the case usually the glass can be removed carefully, while turning slightly to snap any filament that may be still attached to the glass. Power Off and as suggested use pliers to ease the metal ...


Since there's no grounding conductor in the box (i.e. the box is not grounded), touching a meter lead to metal is basically useless.Your COM probe should go to the grounded (neutral) (white wire in your case), then you can use the other probe to test for voltage. It sounds to me like there might be a problem with the wiring inside the fixture, since you ...


The primary consideration is not the static load, but the dynamic load from a heavy, rotating load. That's why there are electrical boxes specifically designed and designated by code for ceiling fan loads. See http://homerepair.about.com/od/electricalrepair/ss/elec_box_ltg.htm#step5


You have two issues: Strength of the hickey - Some hickeys are cast from cheap pot metal and would be sketchy. Some are steel but bent in the shape of a U with one open side, also problematic. Heavier cast iron ones with support on both sides wold probably be better. Strength of the crossbar - Also an issue. consider a heavier duty type or even a full ...


Timers come in two varieties: Timers with a neutral wire. These are connected between the hot and neutral wires of the circuit, parallel to the load. They're powered like any other device, and work by switching the hot (and possibly neutral) wires of the controlled circuit. These timers can control any device, but require a location with access to both ...


If I understand this situation correctly, both red cables are Positive and carry the current from switches. You may want to check both red cables if they really correspond to these 2 switches. If so, I guess You need to choose which circuit (1st red + N + E or 2nd red + N + E) You want to use, cuz I guess You will be using just 1 switch/dimmer (as Your 'new' ...


LEDs don't really have a forward voltage requirement. They have a forward current limit, and that in turn affects the voltage. Current limiting is most commonly done with a resistor, the value is chosen with simple math using the forward voltage drop and desired/maximum current. You can use almost any voltage you want until you reach the sparky levels. ...

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