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1.5 wire needs to be protected by a 16 Amp (or weaker) breaker. You are fine on that front. Your total wattage will be 10*40W*2 = 800W; on a 220V line this will mean 800W / 220V = 3.6 Amps. So overload is not an issue assuming there is nothing else on that breaker. (If there is then add the wattage to the 800W and divide again) You should also extend the ...


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Skylights are pleasing because they fill the room with light which is reflected and diffused off all the surfaces in the room, whereas a typical ceiling lamp is somewhat unidirectional and lights the ceiling almost as much (or possibly more) than the room itself. Uplighting from multiple sources is definitely a good solution for recreating the skylight ...


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TL;DR: The dimmer's toast. Replace it. The short circuit or overload condition indeed likely smoked the switching element in the dimmer; modern dimmers use a special type of transistor-like switching element known as a triac to cut part of each half-cycle of the AC wave out in order to reduce the power being applied to the lamp. Unfortunately, triacs are ...


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They should use the fluorescent and leave it on if they both are going to use the bathroom within a few minutes of each other. the energy cost of turning it off and on is saved within a few seconds. http://energy.gov/energysaver/articles/when-turn-your-lights


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I've had the pleasure of demolishing several printing companies (go figure), from which I'd made-off with the cool guy lights; 4' and 8' florescent red, yellow and black lights. An apartment I lived in for years had the perfect spot for the yellow ones. Atop the upper kitchen cabinets and hidden by the crown molding. I had 3 shop lights spanning the entire ...


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Perfectly safe. Lower wattage can always be put thru a switch capable of handling higher wattage.


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A Non Contact Voltage Detector doesn't replace the need for a Voltmeter but it is an item I keep in my pocket as a quick verification of AC Power. If I cut the power, I'll do a quick test before I go into a wall box to make sure it is cut. If it indicates power when I don't expect it, I will use the volt meter at time to see what it is. I do get a ...


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This is a single pole switch, so you should follow the single pole instructions in the installation guide. Notes: While you could remove the red twist-on wire connector, and use it to connect the black wire from the switch to the other wires. There's no reason to disturb the wires if you don't have to (and you don't have to). Just use the twist-on wire ...


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Even after applying pressure no spring seemed to give sufficiently. It turns out that this fixture is setup so there isn't as much clearance as I would have expected. A little pulling and the bulb came out.


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Usually at least one of the "claws" is spring-loaded, and can be pulled straight out to release the glass.


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If you are installing a new socket (what I assume you mean by a "light kit" would include one, and I assume that the pictured one is the old one), just cut it off (and strip a little more insulation from it) if you can't get Speedy Petey's trick to work. Don't forget to look inside the socket as another place release holes could be (but probably aren't) ...


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Open one leg of a paper clip and insert it into the little notch next to the wire. The wire should pop right out.


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That end doesn't look field-modifiable; cut the plug off and rewire it.


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This will work, or at least you can connect it. Right now we will trust that it is the right dimmer for the lamps. You have all you need, and if you have made it this far, you will be fine. Adding to the confusion in this project is that the dimmer can be used for either a single pole switch, or a 3 way switch. (Kinda clever for sales, but frustrating ...


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Yes replace the ballast. You might as well buy some new tubes while you are there too. And a few grey wire nuts. Find the price for a completely new fixture, before you start looking at the ballasts. The results might surprise you. Read the ballast, it will tell you what it was designed to do. Something like 4 wire, 2 tube, 32 to 40 watt, double pins. ...



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