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1

You'll likely have to do some testing to figure out what's what, since you didn't keep track while disconnecting the old fixture. Start by opening up the switch box, and taking a look at what's going on in there. Here are two possible wiring configurations, based on your description. These diagrams could be completely incorrect, so don't follow them ...


3

Looks like you've got a 1 gang 5 hole outdoor electrical box, like this. A couple weatherproof lampholders, and a motion sensor. You should be able to find each of these sold separately, at your local hardware or big box store. To replace them, you'll have to be comfortable doing electrical work, and working from a ladder. If you're not comfortable ...


0

It looks like just a junction box with 2 light housings and a motion sensor attached to it. If the box is in good shape, just replace the parts. The hardware store near me sells just the pieces you need in the electrical section.


0

Well technically you could just add another switch (being the wemo) with a new hot leg tied directly to the chandelier. And keep you 3/4 way setup. With only one drawback. The wemo will be god and the 3/4 way will function as normal when the wemo is off (A good setup if you intend to use wemo mostly for away mode or alarm mode). You tie the power and ...


1

Two possible approaches: Take the face plate off of the switch, if you are lucky you can see the colors of the wires and match the ones connected to the switch to the ones on the ceiling. You could also use a multi-meter to find out which two wires are shorted together when the switch in on and confirm they are "open" when the switch is off.


2

the 3 bulbs are 60W equivalent ecosmart compact fluorescent's This may be your problem. Many CF (compact fluorescent) bulbs are NOT designed to be dimmed. Try changing out your bulbs with "Dimmable" CFs.


2

Often, electricians used ordinary black/red/green twin&earth for C but marked the black wire with red tape (to indicate "switched live") You seem to have something nonstandard, perhaps a spur (therefore missing B) without an earth to the switch? You'll have to use appropriate methods to determine what is what. See answer to similar old question ...


2

As Jack explains in his answer, the problem seems to be that the rough-in deflects upward as you are pushing the trim in and then returns to its at rest position after the trim is in place. The trick is to keep the rough-in from moving upward. Consider drilling two small holes about an inch above the bottom lip and on opposite sides of the rough-in. Attach ...


3

The symptom of the gap you have in all my experience with recess lights have been the rough in housing has room for deflection. As you push the trim in place, the rough in pushes up also under the tension of the lens going in and it stays pushed up until the lens bottoms out on the ceiling and is released. The housing relaxes back down and creates the gap. ...



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