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4

Just looking the fixture itself, and giving the probability of other points of failure... I would guess maybe the ballast on the lamp has given out (probably the silver box in the image). A ballast steps up the voltage so the lamp operate correctly, and they fail on occasion. Finding the replacement ballast might be the hard part and sometimes expensive. ...


1

Looks like maybe this older bulb design was defective. Cree replaced them for free with the new models and none of them have the same flickering problem in this fixture as the old ones did, and none have burned out.


2

The Tospo is a cheap Chinese ballast. To find ballasts, start with what bulbs will fit in the fixture (all the better if you have a bulb already). Then search for ballasts meant to drive that bulb (which also fit in your fixture). I think I see several on 1000bulbs.com in the $20 range. LED strips really, really do not like to bend on the flat side. ...


1

The most common transformer-less LED lights are christmas tree (fairy) lights. They aren't designed for high light output, and typically don't have color control meant for room lighting. You could buy separate strings of red, green, and blue Christmas lights, but they wouldn't be easy to control if you're interested in color control. I'd suggest using ...


0

A pendant light needs 4 wires: Hot Neutral Ground for the dangling lamp Ground for the box cover Two of them go to metal contact points in the bulb socket. If one of them is easier to touch than the other, that should be neutral. Honestly, I'd say if the accompanying documentation or online docs do not tell how to hook it up, then it goes back to the ...


4

Disclaimer: while this did work, and the insides look as if they're designed for something like this, I'm not sure if it was the exact correct intended approach. Follow these steps at own risk! Based on Tester101 and Ed Beal's suggestions I tried pushing the ends. I think it was spring-loaded at both ends - by firmly but gently pushing the holder on one ...


0

Sounds like a single-pin tube, which are spring-loaded in one direction or the other, not twist-lock like the bi-pin tubes.


0

Please explain how 105W transformer can support 9 20W light bulbs? The 105 watt rating is for continuous duty in nominal conditions for a specified temperature rise. No doubt in your situation it was getting much warmer than specified and that is certainly why it died. How long it lives depends mostly on the temperature the transformer reaches. If ...


0

Alternatively, consider swapping out your surface-of-the-sun hot halogens for some LED replacements and going with the lighter transformer you found. Make sure to select a dimmable product if you need that feature.


2

I think you are asking the right question. The transformer should be rated higher than the total load. It would be better to go higher with a landscaping type transformer this one is 12V @ 500W. You don't want to use a switching supply as they have a tough time with loads like halogen lights.


0

The octagon ceiling box looks fine provided you change nothing. All whites are neutral and all blacks and reds are always-hot, except the bulb lead which is a switched hot. Of course you can reactivate the 3-way. The only issues you get into are Code related, as well as the question "Why exactly did the previous owner abandon it?" You may end up ...


0

I think you want to leave the kitchen box alone and rewire the 2-gang box like this. I used blue for the white neutral wires: I followed the color scheme of the existing wiring, with the red carrying unswitched hot in the 3-wire cables. Please remember to mark the white traveler with black tape or paint. You can re-use the duplex you have, but you might ...


2

That part on the left can't be right. If you closed the sink light switch it would trip the breaker. That is a dead short from hot to neutral. The black tape is not a mistake. That should be the feed to the switch and the black is the switch leg that returns to the light. Then the light is connected to the neutral with the others. The black wire to the 2 ...


1

Short answer: Yes How much do you know about electricity? First off, get the data sheet for the ballast you want to troubleshoot. You will have to test for voltage between the pins on the ends of the lamps and then from one end to the other to see if it matches the rating of the ballast. If it is an electronic ballast it will be more complicated than an ...


1

Thing is, if you replace a ballast it is always best practice to replace the lamps as well. With older magnetic T-12 ballasts the lamps will go out in pairs, even if one lamp is still good, so troubleshooting can be annoying. With T-8 electronic ballasts lamps go out individually. If all the lamps go out at the same time, or are even just all out, it is ...


1

Yes if they don't light and the ends of the bulbs are black you just found 1 answer the bulb is bad. If you replace the bulb and still have trouble your problem is the ballast, electronic ballast die when overloaded. I almost left a sarcastic note at the end of this but will explain. After just changing 3 ballast in very high end fixtures that the owner was ...


5

Green is the ground wire. It connects to the ground conductor in the box and bonds it to exposed metal portions of the fixture as a safety measure. The ground conductor is typically a bare wire inside the same cable as the supply hot and neutral wires. But in some older systems, ground is conducted via a metal jacket or conduit, in which case you would also ...


3

The green is the Ground it needs to be connected to the bare wire in the box. If you don't have a bare "ground" wire just put a wire nut on the green.


0

Every ballast is different. There is no pattern or rule. Sometimes the sales literature doesn't even agree with the data sheet - I've had to send ballasts back for that reason. The data sheet (which is not the sales pamphlet or sometimes even the instruction sheet in the box) will list every supported bulb size, usually with wiring diagrams for each ...



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