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2

the 3 bulbs are 60W equivalent ecosmart compact fluorescent's This may be your problem. Many CF (compact fluorescent) bulbs are NOT designed to be dimmed. Try changing out your bulbs with "Dimmable" CFs.


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Often, electricians used ordinary black/red/green twin&earth for C but marked the black wire with red tape (to indicate "switched live") You seem to have something nonstandard, perhaps a spur (therefore missing B) without an earth to the switch? You'll have to use appropriate methods to determine what is what. See answer to similar old question ...


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As Jack explains in his answer, the problem seems to be that the rough-in deflects upward as you are pushing the trim in and then returns to its at rest position after the trim is in place. The trick is to keep the rough-in from moving upward. Consider drilling two small holes about an inch above the bottom lip and on opposite sides of the rough-in. Attach ...


3

The symptom of the gap you have in all my experience with recess lights have been the rough in housing has room for deflection. As you push the trim in place, the rough in pushes up also under the tension of the lens going in and it stays pushed up until the lens bottoms out on the ceiling and is released. The housing relaxes back down and creates the gap. ...


0

I would guess it is similar to this one. The finial on the bottom should unscrew and allow the glass to drop. It's possible that you'll find a nut inside someplace (or that some part of the finial trim is just stuck). I have occasionally run into fixtures where the threaded pipe is one piece that goes all the way through from finial to mounting bar, but if ...


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It turns out that the previous owner had 3 100 watt bulbs in a fixture only rated for 60 watt bulbs. This caused the paint on the metal to peel/adhere to the glass. It eventually fell off on its own since I left the bottom screw off. One of the sockets was blackened from the heat, so all 3 of these things in my house are getting replaced ASAP.



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