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10

I'm really fascinated by your question and suggested solutions. I am glad to hear that you question the wisdom of some of the suggestions. There are a few factors that are important to consider before picking a solution. What type of hardwood flooring are you thinking of using? Nail down, staple down, glue down or floating? With any type but a floating ...


8

The key criteria is how stable the ground beneath the concrete is. If the ground is stable you can patch and mud-jack your driveway efficiently. Otherwise patches of any kind are a waste of time - after you patch the pieces won't be perfectly attached to each other, so they will come apart again in no time. If that's the case you have to remove the ...


8

The way we do it is to strap the joists perpendicular with 1X3 cheap strapping. Find the lowest point in the existing field of joists and that will be your level reference. We use a laser 360 degree level , but you can get by with a good 6 foot standard bubble level. Mark off the joists in 16" on center with an extra piece of strapping along each wall edge. ...


7

The floor doesn't have to be completely flat as long as any bumps or hollows are relatively shallow (like rolling hills rather than mountain peaks and valleys). If there are gaps or ridges in the floor then this will create areas where the linoleum will wear more than the rest of the floor. This is because there will be movement of the linoleum where it can ...


7

You likely need flat, not level. And for that, all you really need is some sort of a long, straight edge. A yard stick works pretty well ... just place it down anywhere you think there might be a dip or bump, and if the yard stick is flat against the floor its whole length, you're fine. As for the implications of not having it flat, I'm not sure for ...


7

The screws in your picture have a tapered head that match the holes for the screws, so when they are tightened all the way, it will force the screw into the center of the hole; this is why they are OK until they are tightened. My guess is that your marks or holes are not perfectly in the center. It could also be that you are drilling at an angle. Grab a ...


6

I really think a belt sander would do a nicer job than an angle grinder. You could use a small handheld model with 40 or 60 grit belts, or rent a larger one used to refinish hardwood floors if you need to do larger areas.


6

Perhaps you're thinking about this in the wrong order. What if you applied the plywood to the almost level sleepers and then leveled a surface over the ply? I think you''re going to have a very difficult time leveling sleepers as you have in that photo. EDIT: Per your comment that you intend to install tile atop ditra.... you have a very forgiving ...


6

It is also possible to do the final smoothing of the rough squared off faces by using a router. The router rides in a set of movable supports that you arrange over the end of the log and the router bit can cut to a smooth finish across the whole log face. As you make each pass with the router you slide the movable supports over an appropriate amount and then ...


5

Similar to what Steven has said, the screws have a tapered head. You aren't starting your hole directly in the center of the fixture's hole when drilling. I'd suggest taking an ink pen and wrapping tape around the tip so that it is the thickness of the hole in the hook fixture when marking your drill holes. This ensures your marks are centered in the hole. ...


5

I can't imagine the sand idea working. I'd probably scratch that one off the list. Is the basement dry? If you feel that you still need a sloped floor to deal with water issues, I think you want to tackle those first before thinking about finishing the floor. Otherwise, your shimming idea makes the most sense. I don't think pebbles will work but some form ...


5

I think the word is actually spelled "purlin," and normally refers to framing members bridging laterally across roof trusses, rafters, or wall posts or studs. You say (in the other question) that the slope is consistent, i.e. the floor is still planar, just not a level plane. This means the method suggested by shirlock homes in your other question ...


5

I use a hose level. To make one obtain at least six feet (2 m) of 5/8 inch clear flexible tubing which has an outside diameter of 3/4 inch which is exactly the inner diameter of a standard garden hose. Cut into two lengths of 2–3 feet and slide the tubing inside each end of the hose 4–6 inches. It should form a good enough seal without any ...


4

Sorry for the delay. Mike gave you a good explanation on how to use purlins. As a practical matter, once you have calculated the drop at the far end of your floor, rip the first purlin and install it against the lowest wall. (1X3 stock and/or 2X4'stock should work well) I would then use a very straight edged piece of board, cut to the length of the ...


4

Grinding concrete is a very dirty job. If I had to do it I would use a 9 or 4 1/2 inch grinder with a concrete grinding wheel. At least an N95 dust mask, goggles, preferably like motorcycle riders use with the foam around the edges to keep dust out. I would put one or two shop vacuum cleaners hoses in the exhaust vent to create an air flow through the ...


4

Note: this answer is for pressurized plumbing of two hot water tanks. Rereading the question I'm pretty sure it's an incorrect assumption so I'm only leaving it here in case it helps someone with this problem. The typical way to do this is to run the two tanks in serial instead of parallel. You would connect the output of one tank to the input of the ...


4

24 sq ft would be an area approximately 4x6? Adding two inches of depth... I think what I would try in this case would be to get several 1/2" dowel rods and cut them to lengths that would allow me to align them in a radial pattern out from the drain, something like this: Around the drain, I would prop them 1.5" up in the air, and at the periphery I'd ...


4

Sometimes it's the simplest jobs that can be the most difficult. I'm willing to bet that its the summation of tiny errors leading to a visible flaw at the end. The question you want to ask is "How do I mark and drill a hole exactly where I want it to be?" (For a given value of exactly) The answer to this question (and many others) is: Make a jig or paper ...


4

Installing opening windows out of plumb (out of level), will make them hard to open and close, and may affect their ability to seal well. If the windows are fixed, this is less of a problem. If you install them level, the most noticeable issue will be the top and bottom, probably not the sides. You can address this by being creative with casings, the ...


4

You could do either: level the floor or level the individual parts (shower enclosure, vanity, toilet) Which you choose will depend on the degree of out-of-level Self Leveler: self leveler does not need to stay intact after the backer board install. It can fracture and still completely support the backer board.. its got nowhere to go and it doesn't ...


3

If you look at comparable products like DriCore, they sell leveling kits (aka - shims) specifically for use with their product in uneven spots in your concrete - basically they're extra heavy duty shims designed to go under the subfloor. However, if your uneven spots are particularly large, you will need to build those areas up to be true (if not level) and ...


3

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. The larger the room, it easier it is to visually pick up on a level problem. I tend to be a bit of a fuss budget, but I can usually pick up on a 10 foot span that is much more than 1/4 to 3/8 inch off level. This is a pretty objective observation that would be more pronounced to a trained eye than a casual observer.


3

Just saw an article on FineHomebuilding about leveling an old ceiling. It sounds similar to what you ended up doing, except they used steel studs. They also give a good description of the installation process using a couple of guide strings to make sure everything ends up level.


3

The best bet may be to build a frame around the area you want your pool. This can be made from either 4x4 pressure treated timbers or pressure treated landscape ties. These can be attached by drilling and screwing through them into the cedar that is already there or by drilling into the concrete to hold stakes (you can use large galvanized nails) that go ...


3

I like taking small crowns out of concrete floors with diamond cup wheel attached to an angle grinder... Need a shop vac and a masked helper. You may be able to rent both.


3

The laser beam itself will barely be dissipated by the sunlight, check the specs on each device for their range. The difficulty seeing the laser can be attributed to the sunlight flooding all* light spectra/frequencies as well as sensitizing your eyes (or camera white balance) to light. Creating a shadow with your hand near the laser point on the wall should ...


3

it this case, it is not a home improvement project. Since it is a commercial building, you really need to have an engineer design a fix. the liability is to great in rental or commercial property not to have it endorsed. Don't take a cheap fix, it will bite you. The safety of a lot of people depend on how you fix the problem.


2

As others have said, you want flat (aka "true") more than level. If you have areas in your floor that are uneven, but you do not wish to add an entire new layer (which I generally think is a bad idea cause you end up with floors 2" thick with 9 layers of junk in them...) then you can find a floor leveling compound which you spread into the low points to ...


2

Consider renting a rear tine roto-tiller. They are very easy to use and very effective in breaking up hardened/packed soils. I would advise tilling to a depth of 3 to 4 inches. Buy a landscape rake. This is an aluminum rake that is about 3 foot wide with strong rigid tines for sifting out stones etc, and a scraper edge on the top side that is used to level ...



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