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2

You should not use two 3-way dimmers on the same lights. A 3-way dimmer can be used in combination with a 3-way switch, to have on/off/dim at one location and on/off at the other. But if you dim at two locations, rather than getting 0% to 100% dimming controllable from either end, you end up with a combination of the two dimmers' settings that may not make ...


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For the LDR 530 2165TL LED Faucet Aerator they explain that it: Runs entirely on the water stream pressure from your faucet - no batteries required On another LED Light Water Faucet they show the impeller: And here they explain: There is a small dynamo with impeller inside the faucet. When you turn on the faucet, the impeller will start to move ...


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I've replaced low voltage halogens with LED equivalent and had no issues with dimming. But, this is not always the case. I've had to take back a whole case because they had interference with radio signals. Call the manufacturer and ask them. That's what we all do when we don't know.


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I'd try to correct this with cinematic gels - sheets of tinted plastic used to correct cinematic lighting. You don't need to buy a variety - you can stack up multiple layers. It may just be too darn bright. After 40 years of seeing tiny red LED indicators, one thinks LEDs struggle to make a paltry amount of light. Not at all. They can be extremely ...


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The cheapest, laziest way (that would actually work) is to obtain some cinematic gels (they are sheets), such as those made by Rosco. Cut them into strips or squares, affix any way practical. The better, long term approach is to spec better LED strips. LED strips come in a huge range of product qualities. By and large, consumers either pay waaaaay too ...


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I don't know if there is any paint which will shift the spectrum to that region, but some insulation adhesive tape will certainly help. Kapton insulation tape will block blue component from the white light and makes it more warmer. See http://www.kaptontape.com


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I'm assuming your dimmer is rated for LED, ideally with a neutral wire? LED dimming is a morass of conflicting quasi-standards, and a lot of LED makers cut shortcuts by calling themselves "dimming" but only working with certain modern dimming methods. Old style dimmers are made for incandescent only - they don't have a neutral wire, and power themselves ...


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Direct sale eBay "finds" are not direct from a manufacturer, they're either factory seconds, counterfeits or built-to-be-cheap models. Even when "competing" products are offered by several "makers", they are often the same production hucked by several marketers or under several eBay aliases. In any case, they all "fell off a truck" in Shenzhen. No ...


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This is common with older security sensors. (The sensor needs a small amount of power to function. To avoid wiring a neutral wire, they are wired in series with the bulbs, and power themselves by leaking a small amount of current through the bulbs - halogen bulbs don't mind this.) The simplest solution is to replace just one of the bulbs with ...


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Cheap LED bulbs use a capacitor dropper circuit to step down the AC mains voltage to something more suitable for running LEDs -- the dropper capacitor used in them is often not a fully mains-rated type and thus vulnerable to being damaged by surges and spikes -- the resulting damage causes a loss of capacitance and would explain why your LED bulbs only glow ...


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i have a 12V DC 2A power supply powering a three meters led strips SMD 3528 60LEDs/m rated at 12VDC. I originally intended to put these leds in a plastic bottle but after test run it for less than 5 minutes, the led strips get quite hot, hence I abandon the project.


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Judging by the specifications given for those Lights, an LED driver is not what you need. They're listed as supporting "10-30v DC Voltage", which means that they must have their own LED driver circuitry already inside them, so all you need to supply is an appropriate DC voltage in that range from a power supply which can handle the load. You are ...


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Use a pigtail from the 10AWG wire to the strip light connector: (this is just a representative image, not sure if these will fit your strip lights) Just use wire-nuts to connect the 10AWG wires to the wires that go to the strip light connectors. Or solder and tape them. If you have strip light connectors that aren't pre-wired, then create short jumpers ...


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You're going to want to use some more appropriately sized wire as pigtails, to transition from the 10 AWG wire to the LED strip.


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The LEDs do not light up (ie conduct) for a brief time after switch on. During that time there is current in the Live wire but not in the Neutral. The rcd reacts to this imbalance (residual current) by breaking the circuit. Neither the rcd nor the LED lighting system is faulty.


3

Consider reinforcing the strip with self-adhesive foam weatherstrip. Stick the adhesive side to the flimsy backer strip, leaving a spongy foam surface exposed. This might be a really simple and inexpensive way to add some thickness/stability to the flimsy backer, plus give you a kind grippy non-marking/non-slip surface against the pole:


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Get LED strips which already have the stick on adhesive on the back. (If you already have that then great). Then just stick it to the surface that you intend to mount the strip to. I see no advantage what so ever of installing a layer of duct tape in between. There is also a good chance that the duct tape surface is not even optimal surface for applying ...


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OSRAM published an exhaustive document explaining the limitations of CRI and the case with deep red. It also describes the mixing of white LEDs with amber LEDs to obtain a high-CRI (including R9) light with high emission efficiency. http://ledlight.osram-os.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/OSRAM-OS_WEBINAR_HighCRI_06-26-12.pdf


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Adding in red LEDs (usually in the range of 660-680nm wavelength) at the appropriate brightness will improve color rendering when matched with white LEDs with poor reds. However, the resulting combination will have lower electrical efficiency than just using white LEDs with a better phosphor.



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