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19

You can try replacing the wax ring. Usually, that will fix the type of leak you describe. Essentially, there is a wax gasket which seals the area between the flange (in the floor) and the porcelain (on the bowl). Due to age/movement/etc, this gasket will eventually fail, and cause leaking when the toilet is flushed. Replacing the ring is a relatively ...


13

You can buy bathtub splash guards such as the ones found here. You should be able to find similar ones at your local hardware store. Most versions install in seconds, using easy peel and stick adhesive backings. No tools, no mess, and usually no waiting for caulks and/or glues to dry.


10

If your insulation is damp, chances are good it could freeze or stay damp for a while. If not too much is involved, it would be a good idea to remove it to a warm place to dry out, or simply replace it. Never a good idea to leave wet material against ceiling drywall. It could dampen and ruin the drywall. If left too long, mold or mildew could result. The ...


10

Andrew, excellent question and great photos. The problem is a bit complicated. I can see from the photos that the water migration is coming from the top, perhaps even above the top of your window. Anytime the plaster separates from a concrete base, it means the moisture is coming through the concrete, most likely from the out of doors in your case. ...


9

Stains will usually come right through a new coat of paint. Did you prime it first? In my experience I've found that a good oil (or even better, shellac) based primer works best for keeping stains from bleeding through the paint.


8

There are several possibilities for the cause of the leak -- incorrect valve placement, a worn washer, a worn valve. All of them will require you to remove the valve stem to investigate. You'll need: a plumbing valve wrench -- I have a set like this: Teflon plumber's tape. possibly some replacement washers (but you won't know until you've removed ...


8

I contacted Moen directly with this same question and they let me know that they recommended a model 1225 replacement cartridge instead (that's what I get for trusting the guy at the hardware store to look up the matching part for me). Technically either one will work but apparently the plastic 1225 offers a tighter fit than the brass (and more expensive) ...


8

This is the easiest way I know of to find them: 1) Dry off all pipes with a paper towel 2) Run the water, garbage disposal, spray hose, etc. - anything you think contributes to the leak 3) Take a dry piece of paper towel and wipe each joint and pipe. Inspect the paper towel after each one. When you find a spot thats wet, you've probably found your leak.


8

Brass Hose Cap (~$1.50 @ Home Depot and Lowes). You may also be able to find some with tethers (for those of us that constantly lose things like this) .


8

For inexperienced DIYers; or any body not really comfortable with plumbing in general, the easiest option is to replace the whole faucet. While the faucet may be serviceable, stuck screws/bolts, proprietary disassembly steps, and difficulty finding replacement parts, make this a frustrating job for beginners. The new faucet should come with instructions ...


8

I had this problem in my last house, but rather than Jaydles' fancy putty, I just grabbed a cheap tube of silicone caulk and ran a bead around the outside of the tub wall. A couple seconds to squeegee it off after the shower, and things stayed nice and dry. If you're not great at drawing straight lines, use good-quality masking tape to get those perfect ...


7

This a common problem with old multi-turn valves. The first thing to try is to tighten the packing nut on the shut-off shaft. Sometimes this will compress the packing enough to stop the leak. Trying to fix this packing while the water is on is very risky. Even with all the water outlets in the house turned on, you will still be seeing 50 to 70 PSI coming in ...


7

You can use a few methods. I would recommend using fibre glass firstly and then maybe some sort of epoxy /putty. FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANT You will need to clean the areas that you are going to work with. And i do not mean like wipe with a tissue. I mean take some sand paper and lightly scratch the surfaces so it scores it to give better grip to the ...


7

Clogged line There could be a clog in the lines feeding some of the sprinklers, or clogged up sprinkler heads. Remove all the sprinkler heads (the procedure will vary based on the type of heads). Inspect and clean the heads. Turn the system on. If you don't notice any dirt or gunk coming out, and the pressure does not increase in the low flowing ...


7

I would examine why the pipe was corroded. Was it a galvanic failure caused by joining copper/brass to galvanized steel? Remove the fitting entirely and inspect/clean the threading. If the threading is damaged then replace the valve... In fact, you could replace the valves anyway if they're old and you've got the wall off. Many modern valves have ...


7

Oh, wow. I'm sorry, but your roof is probably bad. If you can get the money you paid four years ago back (doubtful), I would, but you probably need to get that entire mess torn off all the way down to the decking, and probably quite a bit of the decking near the edges of the roof too. You can tell because the shingles look "lumpy" and have a rolling look to ...


7

If you are on a municipal system and have pressure that high, you quite likely already have a pressure reducing valve (PRV) installed near your water meter. The International Plumbing Code requires PRVs on any water supply over 80psi. If this is the case, your PRV may just need adjustment. As they age, the spring regulating the device's operation can soften. ...


7

Take some duct tape and seal it around the seam between the frame/door from outside. Then get some proper weather stripping and adjust the door frame when it's not in the middle of a hurricane.


7

You need to replace the diverter, which in your case is also part of the spout. This should be a relatively easy and cheap replacement. Usually the spout is held on with a set screw located in the bottom - you loosen the screen and the spout will twist/pull off. Replace it with a new spout and diverter, tighten the screw and enjoy!


7

The proper name for it is a self piercing saddle valve. The valves are bad for many reasons, including the fact that they often clog and no longer allow water through the line, and they leak. If you need a valve there to supply something like an ice maker or humidifier, then I'd cut the pipe, add a T, and put a proper quarter turn valve on the line. To ...


7

This is a tough job and it may be worth it for you to call a plumber as there are numerous complications you might encounter. However, you will have to learn somehow: 1) Forget about the "higher pitch dripping sound" for now. The leak at the toilet base is big trouble and your efforts should be focused there. 2) shut off the water supply, flush the toilet, ...


6

Leave it to dry thoroughly. This might take several weeks, I'm afraid. Once dry, try an exterior-grade primer before two or three more coats of paint.


6

Some types of insulation will not insulate effectively when they are wet. The insulation could grow mould and the water could damage other materials that it comes into contact with such as the the wood fabric of the root, or the ceiling. I would definitely try to dry it out or replace it. Make sure you use appropriate safety equipment (gloves, correctly ...


6

If the drip becomes a flood, it's not the cost of the water you should be concerned with; it's the water damage. You say the leak seems to be coming from the valve itself, and your reasoning makes sense; if the toilet's dry it means the valve is turned off, so it's probably not any fitting beyond the valve stem. This means that the shutoff valve gasket, or ...


6

If it's the toilet itself, you'll see water on the floor around the toilet -- water will leak from the union of the tank (backrest) and the bowl. Make sure that the tank is attached tightly to the bowl (bolts are under the joint) and that it cannot rock. If it's the seal or the plumbing beneath it, you will see water flowing from underneath. You'll need to ...


6

Make sure the gasket that the flapper rests on is perfectly clean. Any grit or sediment on it can prevent the flapper from making a good seal. Check the chain that runs from the handle assembly to the flapper. If it's taut when the flapper is down, it may be holding the flapper slightly away from the gasket, again preventing a good seal. If that doesn't ...


6

You have probably damaged the seal between your toilet and the flange. This seal is usually formed by a wax ring that forms closely to the flange and toilet base when the toilet is installed. If you've moved the toilet significantly, you may have opened up a hole in this seal where water can leak when your toilet is draining. It's sometimes possible to ...


6

Concrete itself is not waterproof, in fact, it's more like a sponge, so concrete alone is never used to create an impermeable surface. You haven't provided much info - is the roof flat, sloped? What is already up there? There are tons of different waterproofing methods available. Going under the assumption that it was properly waterproofed at some point, ...


6

Roofer would be the initial guess. One has to guess that because the leak is seen during a storm. Even though the leak may be coming in around the vent stack pipe for the bathroom it is still a roofers skill to properly seal a leak like that.



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