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OK, here's how I did it: I put the back on using Harper's method, a slotted screwdriver without taking any of that apart. For the front, there are 2 pulleys on a shaft coming out of the engine. The top (smaller) pulley is the drive belt and the lower (larger) pulley is the one that drives the deck/blade belt. This needs to be removed by holding the shaft ...


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It's fairly typical for lawnmowers to have guards like part #57 which make it difficult but not impossible to get the belt on. They're more concerned with making it difficult for the belt to come off. Though, this also helps keep it in place while you fiddle with the other end. You may need to strongarm it a bit, but try to bend them back to the original ...


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I installed 1" pipe from main line to the back flow preventer. Then 1" to the main zone-valves. From there, I used 1" to all over the yard. When branching to the sprinkle, I used 1/2" or sometimes 3/4" depending on the location sprinkler, type of plants around, more water or less, down hill or up hill. There are many variables to take into consideration but ...


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I agree with PJS1987. Another option is they sell a plug and play camera that would save a lot of digging and yard damage. Just plug into your laptop and stick in the pipe. Worked great for me to find a broken drain pipe. http://www.amazon.com/Eggsnow-Borescope-Endoscope-Inspection-Camera/dp/B00L8OEHEM


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It depends on the particular sprinklers, but somewhere in the 25 to 40 psi range should work for all but golf fairway sprinklers. Usually the pressure regulator is adjustable, so you can experiment to see what works best.



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