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10

Look for wall outlets. They are usually mounted on a stud. Then start measuring in 16 inch increments to find other studs. As a backup, I would use a small finish nail to hunt for the stud in the area that you want to put the TV in. Some studfinders have a "hi" and "low" setting that will adjust how sensitive it is to things behind it. Sometimes for ...


9

I think you would be better off using a remodeling box (with the flanges that rotate out to grip the wall) and ignore the stud altogether. With a remodeling box, you just have to cut a hole big enough for the box, whereas if you use a regular box, you have to cut away more so you have room to nail it into the stud. The main difficulties you'll face are ...


8

From your description of putting a screw into the walls, it certainly sounds as if you have lath-and-plaster. Another sign is the color of the dust: with drywall, it will be very white and uniform, whereas with lath-and-plaster, it's greyish and has darker flecks. A lot of stud finders work by detecting the change in the dielectric constant of the wall as ...


8

I took off the baseboard. With a hammer I broke off some plaster and found the studs. I found the height I wanted and drilled my holes, mounted the bracket then put the baseboard back on. It took about 45 minutes total.


7

Spackling's best use is to fill holes made by pictures, curtain holders, etc. To fix cracks in plaster, use Plaster of Paris or Durabond, not spackling compound. Cracks are caused by moving or shifting, so one needs to make sure the existing plaster and corresponding substrate (in this case the lath) are solid. A simple test is on both sides of the crack ...


7

Removing plaster can make tremendous amounts of dust, isolate the area with plastic to cut down on the spread, and get yourself a dust mask and a helmet is a good idea. Cover any cold air returns and heating vents. Once you're prepared, taking plaster walls down is pretty easy, whack it with a hammer to bust a hole, then you can usually get a shovel or ...


6

If your house was built before the 1940's, it's probably a layer of wood lath, followed by a standard 2x4 stud wall with no insulation. Perhaps some knob-and-tube wiring just to make things interesting. The plaster will make more dust than you thought possible (wear a mask). After the 1940's, it's probably gypsum board, but without the foaming agents and ...


6

Put a camera on a tripod, have it take a picture at the same time every day, and then overlay the pictures on each other.


6

I've come to rely on a pair of neodymium magnets for all things wall-related. A single magnet will help you find studs (namely, the nails and screws in the drywall or lath), and help you avoid nailing into other nails and nail plates (or piercing your wiring). AND, while not relevant to your current problem, having TWO magnets will even let you go one step ...


6

Find the lowest point in the ceiling and place a small pencil mark there. Then measure from the floor to that point and record the measurement. Periodically re-measure and if measurement is getting smaller, then the sagging is getting worse.


4

I'd use a strong knife or small saw like a keyhole or drywall saw to more carefully cut lines in the plaster on the edges of the part you're removing (to avoid cracking the parts you do want to keep too much). Then, just start cutting the lath (with plaster still attached) into manageable pieces (in between the wall studs), trying to keep the plaster still ...


4

This Old House mentioned a product called Big Wally's Plaster Magic, in an article Plaster Repair Made Easier. I've never used this product before, however, the theory of how it works is sound. In your case (old house), the house has likely already finished settling. Settling combined with the years of service the house has provided, may have caused some ...


4

The plaster is likely cracking due to movement/shifting/settling in your house. If you want to keep the plaster, the only real solution is to correct the root problem. Now, usually an old house would have already settled, so there might be a bigger question/problem as to why it is continuing to do so. Not to sound any alarms, but you should investigate ...


4

There is a category of power tool called a multi-tool that is basically a very small saw usefull in cutting in tight spaces. After you cut the initial hole, this tool could be used to trim away the area in the uper section on an angle to make room for your retaining arms. The tools come in corded and cordless version, and at various price points. The ...


3

It's not up to code to leave the wire free. Stapling it to the center of the stud ensures that a nail for something like a picture won't hit the wire (as long as you know this code and don't try to drive a long nail right next to a stud). No one but yourself is likely to ever know this is wrong, and given the age of the home, it's sure to have a lot of other ...


3

If wallpaper was painted over you could tell pretty easily by pulling on some of the peeling paint and breaking the paint chips. Wear a respirator mask while doing this, however, as often times flaking paint is a potential indicator of lead based paint. If the chips contain paper, then you're right, it's wallpaper with paint over it. If it's just paint, ...


3

16 inches on center. Note that lathe and plaster has a number of advantages over more modern drywall, but studfinding is not among those. A standard stud finder you might buy or rent is likely to give confusing results. However a super powerful magnet, or a magnet based stud finder, will work just dandy. A row of small nails runs up and down each stud ...


3

A recip saw is a great tool. I'd also pick up a shop vac if you don't have one. Demoing plaster walls is a hard and messy job. I'd use the side of the sledge against the wall; that breaks the front of the plaster off of the lath, and you can then remove it and follow by removing the lath.


2

I demoed out 2 pony walls and removed/rebuilt a furred down wall to contain a large "window" as part of my kitchen remodel - although it wasn't plaster/lath so I can't really speak to that removal process. I do know it makes an unholy dusty mess (I've had plaster/lath removed in a rental by a contractor and we had to cover EVERYTHING). Strongly advise ...


2

Where I live, there are two or three places that specialize in fireplaces, like a re-modeler's dream. Find what you have locally and take a picture of your fireplace and your neighbors fireplace (before and after) and explain what it takes to change yours. Then you will know what you need and whether it is something you want to handle as a DIY'er or pay to ...


2

Given that it's an exterior wall you've probably hit brick. This would explain both why you've not found a stud - there aren't any, and why the nail only goes in 1/2" - 1" - you've hit the bricks. Given that the plaster is crumbling, the simplest solution would be to drill a hole with a masonry drill and use a screw (or screw hook). If you want to hang a ...


2

I have had a lot of success in the past by using a mixture of PVA Glue and water and then painting the solution over the crumbling area. The glue gets absorbed into the crumbling surface and stabilises it. Then you can refinish with a thin coat of filler or plaster. It saves a lot of work.


2

Most likely it is shiplap. We just remodeled our kitchen in our 1935 house and underneath the drywall and paperboard, we had something similar. Actually the order was: shiplap, cheesecloth, several layers of wallpaper, then either paperboard (lower half) or drywall (upper half). As far as whether or not it is structural, we went with the assumption that it ...


2

Once you have the hole made, could you not break off the other layers with your hand or a small prying tool? You'd probably only need an extra 1/2" diameter outside of the hole for the cans clips to catch. Or you could even just mark where the clips are and just chip away some layers at that exact location.


2

The fact that sections are peeling off indicates that there is a structural problem with the overall "sandwich." In any repair, unless you can overcome the structural deficiencies with an overriding mechanism, you have to strip back the unsound sections until you get to good structure. With you description , it is hard to see where that is. You could ...


2

Assuming you plan to live in the house while this is going on, you should seriously look at the plastic "curtain" products which can be used to isolate the construction zone. They can tremendously reduce how much dust gets into the rest of the house. Speaking of dust, a serious dust mask (one that achieves a good seal against the face rather than the cheap ...


1

What I did in that same situation was tear the lath/plaster down to the nearest stud and then install drywall. It is very likely that the thickness of your lath/plaster will be thicker than drywall (1/2"). So what you will need to do is shim below the new drywall to even it out with the old covering. What I did was use 3/8" plywood as substrate then ...


1

Cut the five inch hole all the way through. Cut the sheetrock back an additional inch. Create a plywood ring with outer diameter six inches and inner diameter three inches. Install that in the hole using three or four toggle-bolt anchors. Install your recessed fixture.


1

I recommend replacing all or part of the wall with drywall. Specifically, greenboard. If you patch only part of the wall you may need to use furring strips or use a thicker greenboard to make it flush. As a bonus, if you rip apart part of the wall you may find there is something else hidden back there that is causing this issue which you can address at that ...


1

You should first remove any loose debris before filling it. I would also advise removing the wall paper around the area you are patching. If you patch on top of the wallpaper, when you go to remove it you will end up damaging that spot again. You will likely need a few applications to completely fill an area of that size.



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