New answers tagged kitchens
Two issues: First, you need to make sure that your floor is rigid enough and planar enough for the tile to be successful. There are deflection tests to determine rigidity, and different ways of checking for planar. The bigger the tiles are, the more important these are. 1/2" plywood is unlikely to be sufficient. 3/4" plywood glued and screwed with backer ...
You should just lay some backer board on top of your current subfloor and go from there.
I recently replaced doors and drawers fronts in my kitchen for much the same reason. Given not wanting to replace the doors and the smooth face, I'd suggest painting a base coat, and then attempting to paint some sort of design on each door. I would fail miserably at this, I already know, but you might be able to pull it off - maybe airbrush some vertical ...
A few possibilities... Probably the cheapest (though not necessarily going to work in your setting) is a 3/4" ship auger drill bit through the plate of the wall behind. A slack jawed yokel would just set the bit at an angle through the drywall and go for it, but a sensible individual would open up a small hole in the drywall beforehand to see what they're ...
Yes, this could replace an actual oven, because it is an actual oven. According to the specs on the website you linked to, the convection element is completely separate from the microwave element. There is a "microwave mode" and an "oven mode." The only negative I see is that the heating element is 1600 watts. That's not a lot for that size oven. Toaster ...
...and following on my comment, locking pliers would be my gripping tool of choice. this flavor with curved jaws: Not this flavor with straight jaws. However, for the level of stuck you have, I would also use a hammer, in conjunction with the locking pliers - put the things on so they are like this picture looking from above, quite tightly. Tap, don't ...
If you're really going to sand it you don't need a polishing compound to finish. I worked a deep scratch out of a small section using a quarter-sheet power sander, and then worked up through 800, 1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 grit paper, at which point it had a mirror finish. (Only problem is it now looks so much better than the other Corian sections, and it ...
I used a big bbq fork. Since it was thin I was able to slide it in the minimal space at the top front of the drawer. I was able to maneuver it back and forth and use some force because it was sturdy. It finally freed the utensils and opened after about 10 seconds.
Straight up. If you only work on the cooktop and do not go into the wall circuits, fair game.
Yes, by all means - larger than minimum wire is perfectly fine.
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