New answers tagged kitchens
It's a pretty safe assumption that the range is insulated. Otherwise it would not only pose a fire hazard to your walls and/or cabinetry, but would melt the insulation on its own wires. If it weren't insulated, it would also potentially melt linoleum flooring. For extra safety, you could run braided metal hose, but I'd mainly consider that because it would ...
Sure, you could exhaust a jet engine through a 4" pipe but the problem is the velocity of the air. As the size decreases the velocity increases for any given cubic feet per minute rate of exhaust. So, what you have to do is calculate the velocity of the air through a 4" pipe given the CFM of the fan. And then will that velocity cause an objectionable ...
It is an American Standard "Cadet" MODEL NUMBER: 6425 http://www.americanstandard-us.com/kitchen-faucets/Cadet-Two-Handle-Kitchen-Faucet-2197/
Impossible to be certain from just one photo but it is either a Moen "Banbury" CA87xxx or a very good knockoff. The sidespray handle is a cheap DIY replacement though.
I don't know about Sweden, but here in central U.S. a kitchen sink will be 1 1/2" tube size. This is different than 1 1/2" DWV which is in the wall, but again I don't know how plumbing is run in Sweden. Cost wise, tubing is not much less than the tubing to run a trap, so I would honestly skip the tubing, and run hard pipe. It will be less apt to give to any ...
Many dishwashers use a float switch to kill the pump when the water level drops, these can get crusty with mineral/soap deposits and start acting up. Check/clean the float switch. They also can lose pumping efficiency when the pump, pump volute, or/and discharge passages including hoses and air-gap are affected by sediment/scale/soap deposits. When the ...
I believe it is a new thing - the water is laying around in the bottom of the dishwasher interior whereas before it was only in the sump where the filter lives
You're looking at a nut. That ring threads onto the nipple. It may not have been installed correctly. It's intended to be used as a clamp base, with the screws you removed tightening against the upper ring. Partially reinstall the screws and use them to help turn the nut. Spray it with some penetrating oil or WD-40 to help loosen it. You could also ...
I've been laying tile every day for over 20 years. These other folks are making too much of this. Doesn't matter if phone line works or not. Seal it up in the wall. If using 12" x 12" or larger tile just tile over the hole. If you need it patched do it the quick & easy way. Use Hardie backer mesh tape to cover hole then spread thinset over it. Next day ...
Bandage the insulated tips with duct tape if using electrical tape as heat over time will loosen the tape, and you don't want a short on your phone line. The bandaging might be overkill but it's safer.
Yes, if the wire is out of service, remove the plastic panel, secure the wire with insulation tape and put your tile over it. "Out of service" not connected to the main telephone system! If it connected, but you have other PSTN jacks in the house, cut the wire ONE by ONE with insulated wire cutters!. Then insulate each wire with tape and finally the entire ...
These are currently available:- "Gx53 LED Light Bulb 110 Volts 5 Watts Warm White with Lamp Base for Ceiling Downlight Under Counter Lighting (5 Watts)" and will hardwire directly into your existing 120V wiring. It also removes the requirement for AC/DC transformers which are just another link for failure.
In the UK, I'd just use a dry-lining box. It is designed for plasterboard walls, and clamps itself to the plasterboard, but no reason you can't do the same using kitchen panels. Chances are that this wouldn't be allowed in the US, as your electric rules seem to be a lot different to ours.
The box in your picture is called an "old work box". They still manufacture similar boxes, and they also make old work boxes with even more robust attachment methods. link to one of the many manufacturers. Link to old work bracket.
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