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Okay, bear with me here. This may look a bit daunting but as far as the construction goes it's all pretty basic. The precise measurements and movements of things are another story. The depth of the cabinet relative to the width of the can will be important because there must be enough throw between open and closed to make it all work. And the distance the ...


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those bits of metal you see on each claw are unlikely to be for fixing to the ceiling. they're probably fasteners for the claw to the base - which would indicate that the claws can be rotated (as to release the cover). there might be a trick to their rotation such as only one direction or pull-down-then-rotate...


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This will require a lot of leg work, and some phone calls. The only way to match it up is to go to the tile supply houses in the area and physically compare it to the tile that is in their inventory or samples to order by. That should be your best shot at it. While at the various supply houses, I don't mean the big box stores, but don't count them out ...


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Knitting needles worked for me! Drawer was able to be slightly opened and with aid of flashlight realized it was the handle of a large knife that was the culprit. We had tried all of the above suggestions without success. Pushed the handle down with the knitting needle and drawer slid right open!


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Fasten it to the floor. A table designed like this really needs to be secured. Remove the table from its base and attach it to the floor joists with brackets, from the inside (find those joists or it may pull up the flooring). Unless you're going to bevel-in a removable decorative center piece (to allow access inside the pillar and a means to attach the top) ...


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If the base is hollow and open at the bottom, I would try making it slide around something heavy. Make a concrete block or something that will fit fairly tightly inside the base. Make it a bit shorter than the base to ensure the table goes all the way to the floor. Then when you setup the table you sit the block on the floor, lift up the table and slide ...


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Solutions in which the table cannot easily move: Make a base plate, as you suggest. But route out a section of your floor and make the base plate closely resemble the floor, then set the whole thing into the routed-out hole. Get several L-shaped brackets and use them to bolt the table to the floor. Ugly. Make the base hollow with a secretly removable ...


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Foam insulation can be injected into the stud cavities. A contractor will drill one hole in each stud cavity to inject the foam through. Then you can patch the holes and paint over them. You should also check any windows in the room. Look specifically at the caulking around the frame. If it's old and dry/cracked, remove the old caulk, use window/door ...


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I had glazed porcelain tiles put in "cheaply"and there were a couple bucket marks left that drove me crazy. I had no idea what they were from and didn't trust that the tile layer hadn't ruined them. I tried DUPONT haze remover, CRUD CUTTER, vinegar and baking soda (which worked partly), but then while cleaning something else with a Magic Eraser I tried it on ...


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As Steven mentioned, it's normal. That's a gap to prevent water on the floor or in your slab or foundation walls wicking up into the (moisture-sensitive) paper-faced drywall. There's only one reason you'd want to seal it up: if it's a path for air infiltration or exfiltration through the wall. If you discover that this is the case, you can seal it with a ...


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It's hard to tell from the picture but it looks like it was tile mounted to a wood board. Wood is one of the worst materials for behind the sink. If going to replace with tile, use a concrete backer board instead and consider using tile trim caps to cover the top. Otherwise use a solid stone or stone like material. And make sure the caulking is in good ...


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Yes it is normal and no, you don't need to seal it. There's always a space between the floor and wall, but in finished parts of your house, there is baseboard that will cover it. If you want to spend money on baseboard behind your stove, go for it, but it serves no purpose other than aesthetics.


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You follow the directions on the new ballast. Exclusively, and in detail. Most (but not all) modern ballasts ignore bi-pin tubes with heaters, so you (following the diagram) connect to both pins (at one end of the tube) with one color wire. But if the diagram shows otherwise, you follow it. In any case, you follow, exactly, the diagram on the new ballast. ...


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We untangled our hose by holding the loop and shaking it continually with the two ends facing the floor. It wasn't on the cardboard tube.


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Ultimately was difficult enough that after about 90 minutes I simply decided to order a new spring and install it very carefully. Perhaps it was possible but it only seemed to get worse when we tried.


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Slide a metal tape measure into the drawer and keep feeding it into the drawer until you are able to catch a loop of it at the back of the drawer. Pull the loop through until you have the end of the tape then pull on both ends. This will mean that the tape will be at the top of the drawer and you can work it from side to side until it dislodges the item ...


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You should siphon the water out using a tube or flexible pipe. I have included an article containing instructions on how to do this here. You will have to adapt it to a much smaller scale, but the principle is the same. If you just do a search for siphoning, maybe you will find a better/more applicable example. I just chose this article bc it wasn't about ...


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It rather depends what the 'vine' is as to how easy to deal with it might be, so a photo of it would be useful. Hopefully it's not Japanese Knotweed, which will punch right through solid concrete and grow in your lounge, if its beneath, but that would be the landlord's issue, not yours, though if it is that, your fiancee should move as soon as possible ...


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First confirm that the problem is at the valves and not a clogged faucet screen. Backing-up the valve with an adjustable wrench you could turn your knobs with channel locks but be prepared for a few drips, or something completely catastrophic to happen. Not something to be messing with on a Saturday evening. Being frank, those valves are crap. Preferably ...



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