Tag Info

New answers tagged

0

If you're willing to pop more tiles, you could run 2 pieces of lumber (2x4/2x6 -- the biggest you can fit) on the flat, parallel to the joists. They'd be wider than the hole by a foot on either side, and you could get good screws through the subfloor (I'm assuming it's sound) to hold them up. Alternately, can you re-route the shower drain pipe to give you ...


1

I think those are Simpson Strong-Tie HD3B, or maybe a HD5B. At under 10 bucks a pop, you can probably afford to buy one just to look at it and see if you think it suits your needs. edit: just looked at the fancy $100 ones, and I can see how you get way better attachment from them. I suggest you integrate a strap that ties the bracket to the underside of the ...


-1

They have Simpson strong tie plates just for this. Cut your blocking to length, hole saw the location of pipe, install Simpson plates using shear strength screws such as teco nails, and then install your subfloor.


0

You need to install the sub floor and any blocking before the toilet flange. Typically you would scab 2x4's much like your picture for ease. The only difference is the bottom horizontal members (bottom between joist) are not needed. Install the blocking first. Then sub floor. Then underlayment, if any, then toilet flange last. Really, we would cut half ...


1

I'm not sure if laminating a sister to each beam would count as three inches (I don't see why not if done properly, for at least as far as deflection is concerned; load calculation I have no idea), then it would be 3 x 7.75, and according to your link (L/673) that's OK for tile. 12 feet of 2x8 is pushing it, for sure. Sister each beam and install blocking. ...



Top 50 recent answers are included