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2

End nailing into the brace will not be a useful and strong joint. Instead do something like the following where the brace is made of 2x lumber. Notch it as shown and set on edge and toe nailed from each side. Much stronger.


1

If you are butting a rim joist into the beam, you can frame like the first photo with the beam held back 1-1/2" and the first rim joist extending to the end of the post. Then, in the corner of the second (inner) rim joist and the beam, attach some Simpson A35's. 1 should do, but if you have enough height you could install 2. Each A35 can transfer nearly ...


0

Looks like a job for the (pricey) Simpson's Strong Tie ECCL More info here: http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/eccl-ccc-cct.asp


2

According to International Residential Code, the maximum diameter of a bored hole in sawn lumber is 1/3 the depth of the board. See this answer for more details. A 2x8 joist has a depth 7ΒΌ", so maximum hole diameter would be 2 13/32" (7.25" / 3 = 2.41667").


0

I'm not sure of the exact formulas as I'm sure they're fairly complex but the John Bridge Deflect-o-meter is a good place to start: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl


-2

2x8's should do the trick if possible tho double two up in the middle with a piece of plywood sandwiched inbetween for an expansion joint


3

The local IRC book would be handy for you. I have a few screen shots that may help, but only as a guide line. A building inspector will have the final say, but this is what they go by. This does depend on where you live, for it has to do with snow loads. Roof cover factors in a bit too. Span does not matter if it is 4/12 pitch or a 12/12 pitch. The span ...



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