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25

Have a look at this document for a quick reference. This type of thing will be covered by International Building Code (IBC) and International Residential Code (IRC) IBC 2308.8.2 Framing details. Joists shall be supported laterally at the ends and at each support by solid blocking except where the ends of the joists are nailed to a header, ...


18

Don't do it. The reason that you can drill through the face of a beam in the center is because the bending stress is essentially zero there. If you drill from the top to the bottom, you're removing the portions that carry the brunt of the loading (the top and bottom of the beam). If a joist that big is sistered, there's a good bet that it's a major load ...


15

According to this document (PDF), accidental notches in the top flange may not need to be repaired if they meet specific criteria. To determine if a repair is required, we'd need a bit more information, including: The distance from the center of the notch to the end of the beam. The depth of the notch. The specific beam used, including beam height. If a ...


14

Only if you're a "professional" plumber. Cut twice as much & then measure, hey lookie there just like they did in your place. Seriously no, you're completely right the I's of I-joists are NEVER to be touched nor any holes within 3" of the top or bottom edges. "Responsible" plumbers & builders re-spec a toilet with a deeper stand-off or just pull it ...


13

The reason that joists are sistered using the same height of wood is simply space; generally there's no extra room. If you've got nothing below and there's space then there's no reason you can't use a taller piece of wood. Things to keep in mind: Spanning as much distance as you can so you transfer the load as evenly across the original joist. If it's too ...


13

Point your home builder to page 9 of Weyerhauser's I-joist document here. See the bottom right of the page where it says "DO NOT cut or notch flange" It is typical of all I-joist manufacturers' installation documents. As Iggy pointed out, the I-Joist in question needs to be reinforced similar to a cantilever reinforcement. To fix this, the electrical ...


12

Good question Paul, The situation with your framing is not really normal, but not uncommon for a house that age. Any time there is separation of framing members, it is a reason for concern and should be addressed. However, I would not say it is a major or alarming problem. There could be a couple of different reasons for this separation. The joists may have ...


11

Per the wording of that code, you can't be adding anything to the floor or the ceiling as you'll be under the 7' minimum. You could consider a super-thin flooring (stain the concrete? Linoleum?) and then, as you suggest, put the sheetrock between the joists (though that sounds like a finishing nightmare). Alternatively, raise the foundation (likely cost ...


10

Another method is to get pliers and a block of wood about the height of the extended nail ( protruding out the wood). Grab the nail out the side of the pliers and insert the block of wood between the joist and the head of the pliers. then use the leverage to pull the nail out, this is also great because it will not damage your wood.


9

We usually use one of these standard nail pullers. Grab the nail shank and roll the plier to pull the nail out of the board. It has the best leverage out of all the recommendations here. Available from several manufacturers, end nippers such as Diamond horse shoeing nippers have longer handles for better leverage and the wide head doesn't dent the wood as ...


9

If you're covering them over, then a wack with a hammer so they go all the way into the joists should be fine. That's routine during a demolition. If you absolutely need to remove the nail, then get a large channel lock plier, grip the nail tight, and roll the pliers on their head to pull the nail. The long handle gives you lots of leverage to hold the nail ...


8

Other than engineered Joists, which are also made of wood products, the only alternative are steel I-beams with a wood nailer. That is of course you want to go complete commercial with steel and concrete panel floors. You better have a very fat wallet and an engineer to sign off for the modification in Mass. Such a deviation from standard residential ...


8

I just checked some Ontario tables. For an Attic, not accessible by stairs (i.e. not used as living space, a 2x12 every 12" can span 32 ft. But you can't put anything above it. I've found nothing in the tables that allows a 30 ft span supporting a floor. While this doesn't mean it can't be done, it means you need to consult with an engineer, and pay ...


7

Are the tongues necessary? Can I just take my circular saw right between the boards, cut them way, and then screw them back down afterward? You've been misinformed. The point of tongue-in-groove planking is to keep the floor boards from twisting, slipping and sliding against each other and squeaking (or squeaking more in your case). You still need ...


7

A properly sized floor joist should never deflect. Is your bed a water bed?. Joists are supposed to be sized to handle a minimum of 60 to 80 pounds per square foot, which is actually a lot, since loads are distributed across the entire span. If you are seeing ridges, cracks, or movement under load, you have a problem. I have seen joists wain, crack or even ...


7

OK normally load bearing walls will have 2 plates on top. But having 2 plates means nothing. People frame however they learned to or want. Checking door header also means nothing. Some people flip all door headers - doesn't make the wall load bearing. You can never get into the head of the guy who framed your house. I worked for a construction ...


7

Yes, this is common. The load in any joist is carried in the top and bottom surfaces (the flanges) of the joist. That's why I beams/I joists work. The thinner web between the flanges basically serves to keep the flanges at the same distance from each other. There is no load in the center of the web. Thus, the center of the beam does not need to be the same ...


6

Disclaimer: We bring in outside contractors for our electrical installs, so I can give you some general tips, but I'll defer to others that may know more about this specific problem. In general, joists, and any lumber supporting a load on its side, will lose much of its carrying capacity when it is drilled or cut on the top or bottom. For passing through ...


6

Since you can get to the floor from underneath, you can shore up the flooring by adding new joists between the existing ones. This will not be a FUN process, but the process is simple enough, just labor intensive. First, add cross braces between each joist at each end, of the same dimensions as your existing joists. You'll want them to be snug fitting ...


6

First off let me quote the American Wood Council PRESCRIPTIVE RESIDENTIAL WOOD DECK CONSTRUCTION GUIDE (which I recommend looking through). MANUFACTURED WOOD I-JOIST: Many new homes constructed with wood I-joists include 1" or thicker engineered wood products (EWP) – such as oriented strand board (OSB) or structural composite lumber (SCL) including ...


6

Weight isn't going to be your issue here. 2 inch furring strips may be pretty hard to hit with the drywall screws. The screws need to be in good solid wood and not going through an edge etc. If You are careful, caulk some good lines, the 1X2's might work for ya. The other consideration is if the spacing is good and you have enough surface to butt pieces of ...


6

Nah - most of the strength is in shear, and joist hanger nails are nice and fat so they have good shear strength. also, yanking them is likely to be harder than you think. The actual nailing schedule seems to be here: http://www.strongtie.com/products/connectors/H.asp That suggests that 10d are one size larger than you should use in a model H1Z hanger ...


5

There is a simple answer to this. Cut the angle matching the roof on the ceiling joist, slide it in on top of your wall and attach it to the side of the rafter. Then attach them together with small lags or carriage bolts. If you look at your picture the 8" joist will be in contact with the rafter well beyond your walls. The rafters will help carry the ...


5

After reading the question and all the comments, I have to add a few things. If in fact what you have are trusses not joists, then you need to know if they are load rated for a floor. Even if the space is only for storage, a rating of 60 to 80 pounds per sq ft is required. Storage can often become a heavier load that a person just walking on the floor. ...


5

I agree with everything Shirlock said regarding adding joist hangers, but first I would advise you to stabilize your joists from whatever is causing separation. Edit The gaps you are seeing are not caused by shrinkage. The gaps were either there when constructed or have developed over time. On a positive note, the joists you've shown don't appear to be ...


5

Use face mount joist hangers and set them so that the tops of the joists are all level. You could try to return the joists and demand a batch that are the same size. Or shim them, which is less than ideal. As stated in comments, joists can vary in size based on moisture content. Not only that, but they'll expand and contract a bit with moisture changes in ...


5

I don't think those rafter ties will work for support. The width of the room isn't what's important so much as the span from support to support. I can't imagine a garage layout that would have a span short enough to make with 2x4's, even sistered. You'd also have to have the attachments to the top plate of the walls adequate to support the weight of the ...


5

My answer over here is probably better suited to your question than it was there. But that was about sistering, you're talking about scabbing (the other answers there may also be helpful). What you are talking about doing is scabbing. Sistering is adding the same dimension board for the full length of the joist. Scabbing is acceptable for individual ...


4

I guess I'm curious why you wouldn't simplify the layout like this: Yellow = deck joists Green = support beams Your decking would run diagonally over the joists. If you use 2x boards for decking, that should be fine if the joists are 16" on center. If you want to use 5/4 decking, you should probably put the joists 12" on center so that the diagonal ...


4

The standard flooring material is OSB, not MDF. MDF doesn't have enough strength to support a floor load. I can't remember if it's 3/4" or 5/8" OSB, so someone will hopefully chime in with that spec. Typical spacing for joists is 19.2" (just under 3/8ths, there's usually a black diamond on tape measures for this point). It corresponds to 5 joists per 8' ...



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