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Is there any insulation now? If not, you might as well go whole hog and make the attic itself a part of the conditioned space. That way, you won't need soffit venting to begin with, along with its associated complications (soffit baffles, ridge venting), and it will also be more efficient if you have mechanical appliances or ductwork in the attic. Get some ...


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Adding a 1" gap behind the XPS creates a dead air space that adds to the R value of the overall insulation. This is a standard recommendation with sheet foam insulation. It does assume that you have a good seal at all joints. If you have a moisture seepage problem, this doesn't add to it. if the walls are damp, they are damp. You should be considering ...


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Attic ventilation is very important so make sure you pull away the insulation from the soffits. Purchase a small rake, a respirator and some quality gloves and do it before it’s the summer and the attic is now 40 degrees hotter than today. Depending on the climate zone, soffits are an important piece on attic ventilation. They reduce the chance of ice ...


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This is hard to do and I agree that there is a big range of cost between basic insulated sealed units and some of the high performance glass units which can be triple the cost. Here in Canada when we install a commercial glass project we are required to provide warranty documentation from the glass supplier which shows the makeup of the sealed units ( glass ...


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I'd use unfaced fiberglass, at least if each wall cavity has a place above the shower where the wall can breathe. Fiberglass is very permeable to air, which is why it only works well in still air.


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That is an expansion joint you are seeing. The material is 1/2" thick and something close to old style Celotex or beaverboard really soaked in asphalt or tar. It isn't much of a thermal break, but it is better than the masonry surfaces touching. Although it is available wider, it is usually only 4" tall. Either a bearing surface or gravel is below the 4" ...


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I really recommend Hardie boards vs. other good competitors. They are oblivious to water - don't hold it and break down. If money is no object, nothing outperforms sprayfoam. If you want something that works well but cheaper - Roxul. I have not used a vapor barrier on any of my HB/redguard installs unless inspector needs to see it then I stick fork holes ...


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I would: Take a photo Separate out the conductors enough I can get a quality tape over the flaw. Take a photo Wrap it all in tape. Write in sharpie a note on the cable. Show the photos and patch to the inspector. Do what the inspector says (if that's a junction box, then so be it).


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The answer changes depending on location. Because of a complete lack of actual fire incidents, four Western USA States: CA, OR, WA and ID petitioned for an exception to NEC 394.12 and permit insulating over Knob & Tube Wiring. In some places you must first file a Knob-and-Tube Wiring Safety Report, and everywhere else it's a good idea. It is a ...


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If you can insulate the walls without a "material that envelops the the conductors", then sure. But I would think that wouldn't be a very well insulated wall. Knob and Tube wiring is meant to have an area of free air about it. Insulation encroaching on this space could cause the wiring to overheat. National Electrical Code 2014 Chapter 3 Wiring ...


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Try filing the gaps between the boards you have with foam board to create an even plane, then cover all at the same thickness with the batt insulation. Tape between the sheets of batt and it should be good.


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Not knowing what you have for head space under this mobile home and what the moisture/humidity levels are, makes a difference. Let us assume, for the purpose of answering the construction questions that the space is tall enough and dry enough to use as a functional space. Notice that I did not say living space. Most codes would require minimum ceiling ...


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I see a window in the wall there. If you're going to insulate your bedroom, put double or even triple paned glass in there if it's possible. You wouldn't believe how much heat leaves your home through windows. Anecdote warning: 2 years ago, I replaced my own bedroom windows by double paned glass. Before that, i had to set my electric heater to blow during ...


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Unless there is plumbing in any wall or ceiling or floor adjacent to the bedroom, I probably wouldn't bother insulating, but I am rather unique in liking a cold bedroom to sleep in. If I had to appease a spouse to make the room warm while she goes about her day in there, I probably would increase the wall thicknesses to fit in 12 inch fiberglass batts ...


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If you're gutting the room, meaning taking off the drywall, I'd go with fiberglass or spray foam. The first is cheaper and will work well, the second is more expensive and will work better.


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I grew up with vermiculite (now rare due to most of it being contaminated (in the ground) with asbestos), moved on to fiberglass, and am now a blown-cellulose convert. They all work, for various values of "work." Cellulose is inexpensive, gets MORE effective when cold, and blocks airflow well enough that a vapor barrier is (possibly) optional according to ...


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Typically this type of structure is properly vented already as you described it. The pitched part of the roof is typically insulated tight with a 1" sheet of foam at the roof then friction fit unfaced. Then a plastic vapor barrier then drywall. Sounds like you're doing a roof so you might consider a foam roof substrate over the pitched rafters. Your existing ...


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XPS must be covered with drywall or another fire resistant material. XPS, when exposed to heat will put off toxic fumes and will melt. The last thing you want in a class room is molten foam melting onto students in the event of a fire. Stick with proper ceiling tiles, drywall or another suitable material. What you are proposing would be against most ...



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