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While foam insulation is capable of taking a large pressure, it also has the tendency to compact a bit over time. This would cause some settling of the slab and/or footing above it. Now, settling is not in itself necessarily a problem - but differential settling would be: when rigid foam supports a load, it can suffer from “creep” or deflection. Over 50 ...


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I tried the diluted white glue (Elmers) and it worked well. I diluted it about 1:5, glue to water, and put it in a spray bottle. It sprayed well, looking like skim milk. When it dried, the cellulose was indeed (at least loosely) bound in place.


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I have never used interior duct insulation, I would think the foam or whatever material could off gass causing the smell you are getting. Metal ducts in my experiance are wrapped on the outside and flex ducting has the insulation outside the plastic. Since you are having smell issues I would say exterior is the way to go.


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I had no drywall or insulation in my garage for 4 years or so. I insulated and dry walked it all. The garage is certainly warmer and very dry now during the winter. We now store stuff in the garage without it getting moist , warp etc. also it is soo much brighter when the door is closed. BTW we live in seAttle.


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Whoever built your house screwed up -- here's how to fix it Instead of putting a piddling R-11 of dubious quality insulation in, and under the roof deck too -- I would recommend cathedralizing the roof system with insulation over the structural deck after laying a fully adhered or liquid applied air barrier down on the structural deck, to R-50 (yes, this ...


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You don't need a moisture barrier, you need an air barrier. The method you propose can work, but is risky. When you insulate a roof like this, you are making the plywood roof sheathing colder, since the insulation is doing its job of reducing heat loss. Cold roof sheathing can get condensation on it if there is not a perfect air seal and moist interior air ...


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If by Styrofoam, you mean rigid foam insulation like this or this you do not need to add a vapor barrier as the rigid Styrofoam sealed with chemical sheathing tape like this will do the same job. The important point is that any an all seams are sealed by the tape to create a water, and air tight seal.


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Your comment about "burnt cotton candy" triggered my memory of this article that I read a while ago. From Green Building Adviser on smelly eco-friendly fiberglass. The article describes the glue used as having a sweet burnt smell: According to Frank O’Brien-Bernini, an Owens Corning vice president and chief sustainability officer, “The new binder was ...


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There is no reason to be demoing this more than a day before it needs to be done. Demoing the ceiling is a 1 hour job. If they plan on running new electric and you will be demoing it is normal to cut out parts of the ceiling to make your runs - even big parts. We would simply screw the drywall back in where we cut it out with 4-5 screws - doesn't need to ...


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I think the key thing is to use a quality house wrap made for the concrete/fiber lap siding. Concrete fiber siding will transfer moisture much more readily then wood, vinyl, etc. Products like DuPont DrainWrap (essentially their standard house wrap thats corrugated) will allow for air movement and water drainage. There are a lot of other products that employ ...


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Roxul is safer than pink or fiberglass insulation, and a few pieces against your windows will be quite safe (but not beautiful). However, if your basement walls are not insulated, I doubt putting Roxul in the windows will make any perceivable difference to your basement temp in general. If your basement is insulated, you will likely have noticed that cold ...


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Roxul is our #1 choice of insulation in exposed areas. It is non-flammable. After installation it releases very little dust comparatively. The dust released has really no harmful effects other than slight irritation. It molds and conforms stronger than fiberglass and other roll insulation. Just make your cuts bigger than the area and compact the ...


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That's how it's done, don't forget to apply chemical tape to the seams and seal the areas around the wall prior to installing it. You won't have another chance with out removing the wall first.



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