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The foam insulation itself is combustible, hence the requirement for a thermal barrier. According to the 2012 IRC: R316.4 Thermal barrier. Unless otherwise allowed in Section R316.5 or Section R316.6, foam plastic shall be separated from the interior of a building by an approved thermal barrier of minimum 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) gypsum wallboard or a ...


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The problem is most likely hot exhaust coming from the vent entering the attic and melting snow on the roof, creating an ice dam and snow melt. Since you have continuous soffit vents, blocking off any one section would not be the end of the world. You would want to block it with an air barrier material like plywood or foam insulation board, sealed at the ...


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I would use that Flex Seal, unless you have high heat. Check it out, can buy it in stores now 14 colors. https://www.getflexseal.com/?MID=6169906


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After you remove the floor, dig 2 inches lower for the insulation and pour the new slab to the same thickness as before.


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R-value is actually a unit of measure for thermal resistance, just as meters are a unit of measure for length. The physical property of an insulator's thermal resistance is quantified by the ratio of the temperature difference and the heat transfer per unit area per unit time (aka, heat flux). So your units would be Kelvin x Meters^2 / Watts for SI ...


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Your best option is to caulk the can's rim to the ceiling drywall and then replace the bulb with a drop-in LED replacement. These things are self-contained units that seal off the air leakage paths themselves, and you can caulk them to the housing too for extra assurance.


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First I would caulk or spray foam (as appropriate) all the penetrations in the rim joists to air seal the area. Then I would fill the stud cavities with mineral wool batts, cutting holes and channels in them to accommodate all those utilities. This is practically impossible to do correctly with fiberglass but easy with mineral wool due to its density and ...


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I'd first be concerned with freezing pipes. If that's not an issue in your climate I'd pay to have the whole thing spray foamed. That's pricy but a good R value and prevents air leakage. Otherwise I'd use rigid foam and try to fill all the spaces and voids, with Great Stuff to "glue" it in place. That would be cheaper than spray foam but a lot more work as ...


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Use rigid foam. You can cut it with a circular saw, or with a utility knife. Buy a 2 inch sheet that's R13, you an always double it up to get R26. Measure the size you need and cut with a circular saw, it cuts like butter. Make 2 and then attach to each other and the door with silicone. You will still possibly have issues with air leakage around the door, ...


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One recommendation is to use rigid foam insulation attached with caulking, liquid nails, or silicone.


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Can I screw the blocking instead of nailing it as I'm a little worried the nailing might cause cracking in the plaster ceiling (with wood lath) below? Absolutely. Is it okay to sister a 2x6 board to the current 2x6 board along the front and back perimeter of the finished area to support the ends of the new subfloor since I'll be cutting the current ...


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A rigid foam (or ductboard) box in the attic which sits over (is larger than) the door opening. When you open the door, the box is still there. When you enter the attic you lift the box out of the way. When you are done in the attic, you lift the box back into position over the door, then close the door.


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Spray foam insulation is a petrochemical product that is mixed on-site and blown with a blowing agent. The actual process is not great for anyone's health, which is why applicators wear protective suits. It is also exothermic, and if done incorrectly can cause a fire (rare). Additionally, if mixed incorrectly, or even in a small percentage of cases, the foam ...


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Building paper won't hurt, and if you do get forced to insulate, then it'll help keep that tiny chunk of insulation dry.


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After 2 years we had mold behind the blanket on our North wall that is above grade.



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