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0

Backer rod and sealant can fill the joint. Provided the installation prevents bulk water infiltration, it provides an additional layer of protection. If the joint currently allows the passage of water, this is a stopgap versus reinstalling the windows properly.


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It looks to me like the window unit itself (what looks to be the newer vinyl clad window) may have been installed over the original sill and inside the frame of the original window. No telling why this may have been done other than to avoid having to deal with the interface between the old frame and siding. Anyway it looks like insulation was shoved up ...


0

I know this is an old question but I have taken many a ceiling down and never removed the insulation from the house. Simply push all of the insulation to one area and then do the ceiling of the other area, flip the insulation back over and you are done. All you need is a leaf blower, broom, and hands.


2

The issue here isn't how well to insulate your basement but it is how to insulate it without trapping water in your walls. If you double insulated your entire basement you are basically trapping water in your walls Building Science report covers this well. Water can also sit in fiberglass for a long time - it doesn't dry out fast. I'm not even proposing ...


0

Get hooks and a tarp with rope through eye holes. Hang the tarp with the eye holes, use a huge tarp that hangs enough to turn it in to a big bag. Go up there with a blower. Put it against a the end so you don't blow past the hole in the ceiling.


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Sounds like circulating air from the outside caused the mold. Any wind/air that gets in from the exterior will carry moisture with it at some point. Vapour barrier always goes on the warm side, so please ignore previous cold side comment. Good luck with every thing.


7

The earth is a good insulator itself relative to cold air that may circulate outside a crawl space. The temp of the ground even few feet down is much warmer (or, in the summer, colder) and more stable than the outside air. If the air outside is in the 20s, the soil even a few feet down is much warmer (in climes as far south as yours). Ground source heat ...


2

Foam insulation can be injected into the stud cavities. A contractor will drill one hole in each stud cavity to inject the foam through. Then you can patch the holes and paint over them. You should also check any windows in the room. Look specifically at the caulking around the frame. If it's old and dry/cracked, remove the old caulk, use window/door ...


4

If you wish to preserve the brick exterior, you have the following options, depending on the wall construction: If you have a structural brick wall (e.g. multiple-wythe brick or brick veneer on block) then you will have to insulate the wall from the inside. This will entail applying rigid insulation board--either foam or mineral wool--over the inside of ...


1

Your two options are going to be insulation batting or spray foam. Batting is cheap, easy enough to do as a DIYer and will easily come in under your price tag. The other spray foam is more expensive and typically requires professional install. There is a DIYer kit out there but I have never used them. Professional install you are looking at way over ...


0

I had a client's weekend home completely freeze with pex lines we installed. Nothing broke. Unfaced batt insulation is the fastest, cheapest stuff. Use Ecobatt if you can find it, you can sleep in that stuff, no itching or irritation.


2

You are in the same climate zone as me. Your walls do not have to be insulated from top to bottom according to building science reports (please read their definition of basement which is totally below grade). They only suggest floor to ceiling insulation in our region given spray foam or rigid foam - in "typical" home basements. What I have been doing ...


1

You are correct: this is a situation where you want no vapor barrier at all, not even the insulation. However, your better bet may working with the plumbing, so you don't need a heater, don't pay for that electricity, and don't need to worry about power outages. I assume when you said "rubber pipes" you meant plastic like PEX, but even then you face the ...


2

You are correct. The field of building science is gradually moving away from friendliness toward vapor barriers in exterior walls, and you certainly should not put one in an interior wall or floor. Not a great idea. In addition, it would make more sense to use batt or spray foam insulation between the floor joists as opposed to cutting rigid foam to fit in ...


-1

To start off: when you're adding insulation to the inside of your basement wall, you need the insulation to do three things: Block moisture that wants to enter the basement through the walls that are in direct contact with damp soil. Cling tightly to the basement wall so moisture can't condense between the wall and the insulation. Be protected from ...


0

I would recommend removing the existing floor boards and frame a new floor on top of the existing joists before adding any more insulation. Small pockets of air between the floorboards and your cellulose insulation can trap moisture and cause the wood to rot at an increased rate and can increase the likelihood of mold. Something to keep in mind is that when ...


1

Is it safe? No for a few reasons: Chance of surrounding objects to catch fire (if not they will be damaged). Food not getting cooked properly (oven may not be able to achieve desired temp). You suffer from constant heat exposure. Your wallet will kill you (if the above doesn't do you in first). The insulation is there for 2 reasons: Keep the heat in ...


1

First with the wiring... I would try to get most or all of your electrical work done before doing the blow in. I am currently waiting in my attic until I finish my 1st floor pot lights. When you are up in an attic and wires are criss-crossing going everywhere it is really hard to pin down what is what and even find the same line 30 feet away. Add in ...


2

Blown-in cellulose insulation is fluffy stuff. It doesn't harden. You can shovel it out of the way if you need to work in the attic; you just need to redistribute it evenly back into place when you're done. So it makes working in that space something of a nuisance, but not worse than that. (Assuming a traditional attic. If yours is a low-roof crawlspace, ...


0

To some extent the issue of having to form a connection between the crawl space and the conditioned living area for purposes of controlling crawl space humidity can be addressed by a dehumidifier placed strategically in the crawl space. This way you would not need any communication between crawl and living.


14

Um...in a word...ABSOLUTELY NOT!! You should without a doubt get the proper replacement insulation and put it back same as it came from the factory.


0

Spray foam might sound appealing as a quick fix, but will be a pain in the a** if you ever want to remove it! Here is an alternative solution: If you are convinced that building a small section around the old vent will work if you could make it waterproof, then try this instead: Similar to the way for building a fish tank, go out and get some thick ...


2

An outside mount with no sill would at least give you a drip edge there. It's just installation step one: rest on sill. So be careful trying to mount an exterior one. For an inside mount, remove and measure the screen. Have them replicated as storms and hold them in with clips to promote annual use. Caulk it shut if you must. And the rest of your trim while ...



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