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So I was looking for the answer to this question also. I found a college paper that claims 13% increase in insulation. Here's the link if anyone's interested. http://pages.uoregon.edu/hof/W10HOF/22FilmPaper.pdf


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Air Tight recessed lights might prevent air seepage from a conditioned area to a non-conditioned area, but they can't do much about thermal transfer. Proper insulation is the only way to fix large amount of thermal leakage. However, your predicament is going to be that your fixtures are not insulation-contact (IC) rated. With non-IC fixtures, you'll not ...


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These lights are not standard 110V AC lights, but use 12V bulbs. In fact, each element consists of the light fixture itself, plus the associated 110V -> 12V transformer. In any transformer, there will be some loss of energy (no transformer has 100% efficiency), so some heat loss is to be expected. Moreover, in the manufacturer's documentation it is stated ...


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I agree that proper ventilation will likely go a lot further in keeping your 2nd story cooler than added insulation. I'd try that first and then see if you still want to add insulation. We recently replaced the roof on our two story home and left the insulation in both attics alone/as it was. We didn't add any insulation or change anything else in either ...


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Since the ceiling in the attic is too low to make it into a living space, you should only insulate the floor. Insulating the ceiling will create a new heating zone, and essentially you will be paying more to heat your attic. Another reason you wouldn't want to insulate the ceiling rafters is that you can wind up with ice dam issues. The roof could get too ...


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Remember, heat rises. In the summer the second floor will be hotter than the first for several reasons. I found that after reaching a reasonable amount of insulation in the attic which helps more in the winter season, removing the heat from the attic is the best remedy. I installed a power vent running off a thermostat. You need to make sure you have enough ...


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Dense-packed (and only dense-packed, not loose-blown) cellulose is better in walls than fiberglass batts, for a couple of reasons. It has a slightly higher R-value per inch. Is is hygroscopic, meaning that it can take up moisture; in doing this, it can protect the structural wood should it ever get wet. Dense-packed cellulose can improve the airtightness ...


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As you've discovered, an insulated attic doesn't really provide much comfort, even if it does reduce heat flow by some amount. In order to get true second-floor comfort with insulation, you need to really, really improve the amount to R-60 or greater, and you need to use insulation that's opaque to infrared radiation, which fiberglass is not. I suggest ...


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Some approved insulations (such as polystyrene) have a lower heat rating than standard NM cable. Since all conventional insulations can touch an IC rated fixture, cable should be no problem.


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No likely permanent danger, the effect is most likely limited to the acute irritation you are experiencing. Even if it contained some amount of a hazardous substance, a short term exposure is not likely to pose a long term health issue. Now if it happened to you every day during the course of your work, that would be a different story.


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I install these systems in homes all over East Tennessee. I am not a franchise so I don't sell a one size fits all solution for crawlspaces, each is different. The idea of exchanging air from the crawlspace and the house to me has never been one I am crazy about because I have spent so much time in crawlspaces and know what is down there. Intermingling ...


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Cellulose insulation is available in batt form (like fiberglass batting,as rolled blankets, with or without vapor barrier). If you don't want to rent a blower, or if you're insulating open walls or ceilings, this may be an alternative. It will probably be more expensive to achieve the same R-value this way.


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I'm having trouble visualizing the whole layout. That said I also have knee walls and sloped ceilings. I was able to force attic baffle vents between the insulation and roof by taping them together, then pushing them up with 1x2 sticks. It's not perfect I'm sure, but does allow some ventilation from behind the kneewall to the main attic. Of course, I have ...


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If you are a diy'er like myself and not an air conditioning expert, realize that insulating external piping does allow for the most efficient operation and does not have to be complicated. On my outside unit I could not get regular split-form insulation to stay in place and not deteriorate rapidly where the unit is exposed to the sun. I took a serrated blade ...


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Adding a layer of sheetrock is probably the easiest solution in your case, but in cases where you must remove the ceiling (installing AC ductwork or repairing ceiling or attic structure) you can rent an Insulation Removal Vacuum. These are similar to insulation blowers, but in reverse. They use a 20 HP motor attached to a turbine to create suction and 20 ft ...


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If your home is older than 1980 (was officially banned in 1977 in the US), then it is very likely that there is some asbestos in the house. It was viewed as a miracle product before there were health concerns. Asbestos was in a variety of building materials including, but not excluding drywall compounds, insulation products, drywall, siding, and roofing ...


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It's the combination of polyethylene and fiberglass batt insulation. What you have there is a mold-and-rot-machine. For more info, see http://www.buildingscience.com/documents/digests/bsd-103-understanding-basements/ You need to remove the poly sheeting at a minimum. Preferably, you would redo the basement wall entirely to have rigid foam insulation against ...


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I would start by asking your real estate agent. They may be able to give you a quick answer like "definitely not, that's fiberglass" or "maybe". It's also possible the current owners have done testing. If they have any knowledge of asbestos in the house, most (all?) states require them to disclose it (although it may be hard to enforce that). However if ...


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With an asbestos test kit or a professional asbestos testing firm. If you're buying the house, you may be able to get the sellers to pay for this.


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Thermax is rated for fire exposure and those particular boards are intended for interior finished space, so yes, you can paint the boards instead of covering them in drywall. However, I'm not sure the result will be very aesthetically pleasing or durable if this is going to be a finished residential space, which, based on your previous question, I'm guessing ...


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Oh what a shame you already did the roof. That would have been a perfect opportunity to add rigid foam insulation boards above the roof sheathing. A vented roof is definitely better from the perspective of shingle life and moisture resistance, but with such shallow rafters and an unwillingness to lose any ceiling height, that's not an option. If you go with ...


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Polyisocyanurate, AKA: PIR, polyiso, or ISO –Wiki During a fire, polyisocyanurate can release a considerably higher level of toxins than other insulating materials. Other than PVC (which will release dioxin), I can't think of a worse building material to inhale fumes from. Other types of foam might be 'better' but all of them should have a fire barrier. I ...


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I would not recommend additional insulating wrap for the unit itself, this could cause it to overheat and malfunction... or even catch on fire. You should be able to find the model and serial #s on a placard inside the door. Check the manufacturer's minimum clearance requirements, if the cabinets are too close then you have the wrong oven or improperly ...


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Assess the damage:if moderate, try removing the mold yourself. Use fans to move the air and flood lights to see and plastic covers to collect the mold when scrapped clean. Use liquid spray that you can buy at the hardware store.Some suggest surface blasters. After the mold area is clean and dry put in a dehumidifier and check for ventilation as preventative ...



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