New answers tagged insulation
1
It wouldn't even be cost to me. You have tons of crap running through your attic - electric, venting, whatever. Why would you want these things set in stone? What would you do if you needed to properly secure more electric after spraying. Does not make sense to me at all. I have been up in my attic 20-30 times over the past few years moving electric, ...
2
I used spray foam in my attic. Here's why:
I wanted the A/C units in the attic to be in the thermal envelope of the house.
Placing anything but sprayed open cell or closed cell foam on the underside of the roof deck was the only option for me. I could have used SIP panels if I was replacing the roof.
To get R-value for my area (central FL) I would need ...
1
Have you considered using a surface mount box which would allow more space for insulation in the wall behind the electrical panel?
You should definitely do as much as you can to prevent air leaks.
2
I would not waste the insulation on an outside wall unless your garage door was getting insulation. Drywalling has benefits though... First you need to use fire resistant (5/8) in most places in the US for garages, a fully drywalled and painted garage will be deemed nicer by those wanting to give you money for your house, white flat walls reflect light the ...
0
If you don't have an electric carving knife, which is the best tool, use a serrated bread knife. Same action on both.
0
I know of no reason NOT to cover the pipe with insulation. Some pro's state it does not matter however I know for a fact that if your unit has poor air flow due to a clogged air filter or your freon gets low that pipe will actually freeze solid if there is no insulation covering it causing the entire system to fail and potentially causing damage. My previous ...
-1
Any cool pipe in a basement will benefit from condensation reduction through insulation. Running a dehumidifier will also help. I have mine piped with a cut-off hose right over to the floor drain, and then connected to a right angle barb fitted with a 1" piece of hose going into the drain.
Hot water pipes will also benefit.
The closed cell (polyethylene) ...
0
Using a closed-cell spray foam would be a good option. It serves as both insulation and vapour barrier (you don't need to put up a separate one), and the R value per inch is very high: usually at least R7 per inch (compared to fiberglass batt insulation which is typically R3 to R5 per inch). It's also the best coverage you can get: it expands, and it also ...
0
If your insurance adjuster is fair, He/she will cover the costs of removing all damaged materials and replace them. In fact, water soaked insulation and drywall cannot be dried out and salvaged. This will be a mold factory soon. The sooner you remove this stuff and expose the framing, the lesser the chance of growing mold on the framing. If the framing is ...
4
I think you'll have to get one of these vapor barrier boxes, and fit it before installing your electrical box.
Seal up where the cable penetrates, then install your electrical box.
The other options would be to cut a larger hole and patch drywall, or seal it up from the back side (but that would require access to the other side of the wall/ceiling).
1
Yes you can sheet rock with longer screws. However the screws will basically have no hold until they hit the wood. Your previous insulation will continue to shrivel. Your ceiling will sag (glue and screw your drywall to ceilings). And you will be like - "why didn't I prep this for a couple hours so I don't have to redo it." Nothing worse than completing ...
0
Probably not. Without pictures I imagine the drywall screws would not have enough grip into the foam to hold them to the ceiling during an earthquake or even a door closing. Sight unseen of course, I would pull the foam down before I installed drywall.
1
When you say ventilation windows, do you mean operable glazed windows or small permanently open screened openings? Either way, fuel burning appliances require adequate free openings in enclosures to ensure proper exhausting of combustion by-products. Electric water heaters do not require such openings.
Your local building authority probably has specific ...
1
There's nothing wrong with fiberglass insulation beneath the floors. It will be, most likely, the most cost-efficient solution.
If you have a situation where critters like the insulation, well you have a vented crawl space! Critters get in there.
If you have an issue where the insulation gets moist and sags, the problem is not the insulation, it's a ...
0
I've used fire rated silicone around my flue in the past and it has worked a treat to seal between the flue and the roof.
2
I had an old farm house once with a similar situation. This publication from the University of Alaska-Fairbanks proved very helpful, and it applies to cathedral ceilings as well.
In summary a roof needs to be either well insulated, with no air gaps against the underside of it (fiberglass insulation right up next to the decking), or it needs good airflow. In ...
0
It depends on where you live and how you plan on attaching everything. For interior insulation you want the vapor barrier on the warm side so the colder regions would always do the interior facing and some warmer climates would do the exterior side of the insulation. The underlying rule of where would the moisture most likely be trapped still applies but it ...
0
Yes. I would use a form of home wrap. No brainer in Montana.
And I usually use Tyvek(?). Not sure of other have opinions on the best brand or style.
3
NRG greenboard is 98% air and therefore only 2% polystyrene
NOTHING can be mounted TO this. Your reel may be mounted THROUGH it to the studs behind.
From the Greenboard handbook:
17.1.5 Solid Blocking of Fitting and Accessories
Consideration should be given to the installation of
wall mounted accessories i.e. taps, electrical ...
2
The most common method would be to blow in high density cellulose between the rafters. This method requires that a small hole (1 to 2 inches each) be drilled in sheetrock, at the top and bottom of each bay. After the insulation is blown in, repair the holes or use plugs to cover the holes. Foam can also be used, but is about 4X the cost of cellulose and very ...
0
If there really is a decent amount of room where your green lines are I would think it could be spray foamed. You just need an extender on the sprayer to get up into the bigger area and get the rest on the way down. I am assuming you could get a hose through that area though.
3
If adding insulation to the outside (roof) is prohibitively expensive, then the alternative is to add it to the inside. Tear out the sheetrock, fur out the joists, and add our insulation there and re-sheetrock.
1
I think I would be inclined to use XPS foam cut and inserted between the joists. Caulk around all of the seams. This is similar to how you insulate rim joists in a basement. It would also act as a vapor and air barrier.
Another option would be closed cell spray foam but this is usually expensive and not a DIY job.
If you were willing to do it from the top ...
1
You need to have plastic sheeting - thicker the better stapled to your joists on the bottom with the insulation sandwiched in between. This is a must to first keep wind out and second to protect your insulation.
Additional info - I don't think I would press any insulation accept spray foam up to the subfloor. Using the Building Science findings and ...
Top 50 recent answers are included
