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I believe if you don't have a moisture problem the way the house sits right now ie. Mold or mildew or popping plaster. Then you don't need the added cost for labor and materials for a siding job.


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Insulate & perimeter seal the Huge Door. Then, make sure the roof is ventilated & insulated properly. To make any difference ever, there needs to be a way for roof heat to escape & interior heating or cooling to take a good long time in migrating out. Absolutely, get the A/C serviced, checked, charged, cleaned & even replaced or return ...


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One boringly unexciting approach is double drywall (and don't choose the lightweight type) though that is more often done when building or rebuilding/remodeling than as a retrofit without some other rebuilding/remodeling going on. It easily and unobtrusively adds a significant mass to the interior structure. Bang for the buck, and in most cases pound for ...


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I have about 50 55-gallon drums stacked in my basement, all filled with water. They are stacked one on top of the other (bottom row/top row) along our north basement wall. I have two in floor-mounted fans, one pushing, one pulling, mounted in the ground-floor joist cavity (from above they just look like floor mounted cold air returns). During the day, the ...


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The only good solution to for this that I know of is pumped geothermal heat storage. In this system, a thermal well us used to store heat underground, and a heat pump is used to move energy between the house and the ground. Theoretically, if your local geology permits it, this lets your air conditioning during the summer store heat that can be recovered ...


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It's common practice to use duct seal or other similar products, to seal around utility penetrations. Properly installed, it should keep all types of pests out.


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You don't mention where you live so it is hard to give specific advice. The best suggestion is that if it will be climate controlled, it should be built similar to any other climate controlled structure in your area. That means keeping damp, warm air away from cold surfaces, and building such that the walls can dry if moisture enters them. If you aren't ...


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This is a common issue that is often ignored or dealt with in shoddy ways. First, yes, set a mouse trap and get rid of the mouse. Then deal with the hole. You may find an escutcheon that will fit around the gas pipe. Gas pipes may be many different sizes. To keep the mouse from pushing it up you could use a pipe clamp above it and/or glue to secure the ...


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There should be a steel plate over that notched stud /joist to prevent the wire from being damaged when sheet rock is installed as it is less than 1-1/4" from the nailing surface. The single gang box can be moved forward on the stud to make it a flush mount. The 4x4 box is easier, a 1/2" single device mud ring can be put on the face of the 4x4 box that ...


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Ok I think I just answered my own question, I understand that an outswing door can be purchased in the local box stores. I was under the misunderstanding that they were a costly online purchase.


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If you're keeping the same door frame, you'll need to change the placement of the hinges, door latch and door stop; just reverse everything. Depending on the materials of the frame, you can likely putty the old holes, sand them, and refinish the surface.


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Anything is possible, but why don't you just purchase an outswing door? If you flip the door frame, the threshold will slant inward instead of outward. Good luck!


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It's the opposite, in fact: in terms of thermal performance, cellulose is better on the top layer. The reason for this is that compared to fiberglass, cellulose is more dense and more opaque to infrared radiation than fiberglass is. Most attic heat gain is caused by infrared radiation, and convection through the insulation plays a strong role in heat loss. ...


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i am not sure entirely what your post is asking, but if you are looking for a reccomendation, choose mineral wool fibre (like roxul) first, fiberglass second, and cellulose last. mineral wool doesnt hold water, get eaten by bugs, burn or lose its loft fiberglass holds water, doesnt get eaten by bugs, doesnt burn, and loses its loft fairly slowly ...


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Shadecloth is an expendable item - either replace it, or purchase some "liquid shade" (paint-on greenhouse shading material, which can be removed / reapplied seasonally.)


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AAC block is known to have better thermal insulation than brick. Based on my unmeasured observations, a 220 mm brick wall is probably a better sound insulator than a 100 mm AAC block wall. Different materials will absorb/filter different frequencies (thermal energy or sound), so a combination of both brick and block should provide the most comprehensive ...


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5/8" drywall on 24-inch centers is standard practice across the industry. Unless you have some weird early-version panels with poor sag resistance, 15" of cellulose will not cause a problem. I'm with Daniel Griscom, however. R-49 is in the ballpark of what we install in new homes here in frigid Minnesota (regularly seeing -30F in the winter). It's almost ...


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The first thing to do is isolate the part of the roof that's ventilated from the interior. There's no point in insulating a space that has huge holes in it which allow exterior air inside. Your plan seems like a good one, especially the part about the radiant barrier facing the airspace. However, you have it in the wrong place: radiant barriers should face ...


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Solar load (which heats the building to 95 on a 68 degree day) is a real problem. Insulation will make things better, not worse. The #1 thing you can do is paint the roof white. Yes, I know that's hard and weird, but it really does work. Soffit and roof vents, obviously, make it a lot harder to heat a shed. Maybe the architect was concerned with ...


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Insulating it works both ways - it will be cooler than the outside in hot weather, due to less heat gain from the exterior, if you keep the windows closed when it is hotter outside. When it is cooler outside, open the windows. Hopefully you have, or will add, screens in the window openings. It will not be 95 inside when it's 68 outside unless you leave the ...


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Actually if you look closely, I think that I can see one potential issue. The hose might be crimped; you should check that and maybe pull the dryer away from the wall.


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Do I have anything to worry about? No. The air coming out of the dryer vent is not hot enough to ignite anything. Otherwise they would require a double walled vent pipe. Try putting your hand on the pipe while it is running. You will see it doesn't really get very hot. Good luck!


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All you need is a trap on both paths like the one you have coming from the dishwasher/washing machine The trap fills with water and stops draughts although in excessively windy conditions its still possible for very strong winds to force their way through a water trap but normally there wont be enough pressure I wouldn't personally suggest swapping the ...


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If you want the open shutters to run parallel to the wall, some kind of offset hinge is needed. But creating such a hinge to mount the shutters shouldn't be too hard. The pivot point needs to be slightly outward of the midpoint of the well around the window. The lower tail of the hinge in the image can be cut off, or it can be bent to fit against the ...


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"Authentic" shutters on thick walls (think stone) are typically on the outside face of the wall, not close to the window inside the recess. "Shutter stone wall" will search you a bunch of images, too many of which have copyright issues for me to sort through them and find a good one that does not.


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While I agree that this was assembled backwards I think the apparent lack of a vent is acceptable here. It looks like it basically goes through the wall and then into that box outside--so long as it's close enough to the sink that would suffice for venting.


37

You don't have a trap seal, to prevent air from moving through the drain. Only the dishwasher is draining through the trap, so there's no trap to prevent air from coming up the drain. you'll have to fix the plumbing, so that both the sink and dishwasher use the trap. Instead, the plumbing should look more like this... Use a tailpiece like this, off ...


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An easy test would be to cut a panel out of some junk styrofoam, that would go under the black grate, and block up but not tightly seal, the tub that the white pipes drop into. It's free and easy to work with, and if such a block cuts down on the wind problem, you can then make something more permanent and better looking.


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Most drains (in the US) vent thru a vertical pipe which prevents sewer gas from accumulating in the structure (home,apartment,etc) Part of that system should include a trap (usually a J or S shaped piece of pipe which holds a small quantity of water which prevent air or gasses from passing back into the room from the sink or toilet. If that trap was not ...


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You could put a cover over the drain box but when you do so it has to allow for free air flow so the isolation afforded by that air gap drain box still functions properly. If I was making the cover it would have a baffle design with a double wall construction. See figure below: The inner wall of the baffle cover would sit on the ground or maybe even set ...


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Go to your local insulation distributor and rent a vacuum machine for $50 and suck it all out in 30 minutes into a bag or dumpster and if you choose re blow it or do yourself a favor and ditch the cellulose for better performing fiberglass such as L77 from Owens corning. You can also rent a blower to re blow it back in for about $30. This way it is done ...



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