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A rigid foam (or ductboard) box in the attic which sits over (is larger than) the door opening. When you open the door, the box is still there. When you enter the attic you lift the box out of the way. When you are done in the attic, you lift the box back into position over the door, then close the door.


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The foam insulation itself is combustible, hence the requirement for a thermal barrier. According to the 2012 IRC: R316.4 Thermal barrier. Unless otherwise allowed in Section R316.5 or Section R316.6, foam plastic shall be separated from the interior of a building by an approved thermal barrier of minimum 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) gypsum wallboard or a ...


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I would use that Flex Seal, unless you have high heat. Check it out, can buy it in stores now 14 colors. https://www.getflexseal.com/?MID=6169906


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After you remove the floor, dig 2 inches lower for the insulation and pour the new slab to the same thickness as before.


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One recommendation is to use rigid foam insulation attached with caulking, liquid nails, or silicone.


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Can I screw the blocking instead of nailing it as I'm a little worried the nailing might cause cracking in the plaster ceiling (with wood lath) below? Absolutely. Is it okay to sister a 2x6 board to the current 2x6 board along the front and back perimeter of the finished area to support the ends of the new subfloor since I'll be cutting the current ...



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