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4

In the bath with the tile base, there is caulk available that is colored to closely resemble a number of colored grouts. Any of the big box stores will carry a good selection of colors. The wood base will need only a good version of white painters caulk, wiped in with a dampened cloth to make the line only in the joint. I forgot to add this detail about the ...


3

You could use "seal and peel" type removable weatherstripping caulk. Some type of caulk would probably be the permanent solution as well.


3

There is a polyurethane foam rope-like insulation used to fill gaps before adding caulk This comes in various sizes from 3/8" to 5"8. It can be compressed to about 1/4 of its diameter. It also should be removable, if need be. Images and links are for illustration only and not an endorsement of products or sources.


3

Something moved or warped. The door, the door jambs, the wall... Easiest thing to do is add additional weather stripping. They make weather stripping that comes on either wood or aluminum strips for attaching to the door jambs. Comes with either the D style weatherstrip or the kerf style which you purchased. It's basically what you bought with a rigid piece ...


2

For the back door, you can move the strike in towards the door stop the 3mm you need to get it to contact the weather stripping. Be careful how you do this, it will require a bit of cutting out of the jamb to move it back and reset longer screws to hold it there. Move it no more than you need, too much will make the door difficult to latch when you close it. ...


2

You fill the joist bays with fiberglass or mineral wool batts, then you cover the underside of the joists and batts with a few inches of rigid foam or rigid mineral wool boards, and then you protect that layer by covering it up with plywood or OSB. One layer has to be your air barrier. If you use rigid foam, make that your air barrier and caulk and tape the ...


2

If you have a concern about potential damage I would use "Moretite". It is a clay like material. It comes in a roll of various diameters.It is inexpensive and somewhat reusable. You can wrap several pieces together for larger gaps. I have never had issues with paint damage or residue after removal


1

Sounds like your concrete slab is un-insulated around the perimeter and/or the bottom. The very conductive flooring material (tile) doesn't help; the combination of these two means that the floor has very little thermal resistance to heat flow, so you constantly lose heat through the slab. If the heat you generate is quickly rising through the second floor, ...


1

Skip the studs - there's nothing structural here. Use (roughly) 9-10 cm of rigid foam insulation and 1-2 cm of plasterboard/drywall or plaster, depending on internal finish of the rest of the room. Glue the foam in place with a construction adhesive meant to work with the type of foam you get (should come in a caulking tube.) Use some canned polyurethane ...


1

You can caulk the window to the drywall or moulding. I like siliconized latex caulk, but pure silicone can work well too (lasts longer, but not paintable, and collects dust more if it's on a horizontal joint). For the baseboards, there are a couple of things you can do. If removing them is an option, you can stick foam backer rod between the customary gap ...


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Use a combined moisture & sound deadening barrier like Roberts Unison 2-in-1. I put this under my engineered bamboo floor. It was an easy install and works great.


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There are no red flags that I see in your question. I don't like drylocking walls that will be covered in basements for the simple fact that if water hits concrete I would rather it go through the concrete than sit in the concrete (where if it freezes then expands will help promote larger cracks). But you have 15 years there and nothing so good for you and ...



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