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Looks to me like you have a GALANT leg. From IKEA's website The legs shall be fitted on to the frame before the table top is put in place. If you only have the table and legs, you may not have everything you need. Based on instructions found at the customer service site linked to by alt, you need to put the legs onto the frame bar piece, then put the ...


Going from those pictures, it kind of looks like you drive the screws through the holes in the table surface into the legs. :)


It's quite easy to check that something is at a particular angle. Just put the appropriately sized block on your level at the appropriate distance, and make your level (with the block) level. Your off-level surface makes a right triangle with respect to an imaginary (or provided by your level) level surface. The level is the "adjacent" side of the angle, ...


It's much easier to check that something is level than to check that something is 6 degrees or 1/4 inch higher. Build it level. Then add a 1/4 inch strip of wood (a length of lath or trim) across the inside edge of the horizontal framing member. You are correct that the sleeve will be sitting on two edges, the added trim strip and the outside edge of the ...


There are local landscaping companies that would do all of this around me. I would call a couple. Also with a small area some pavers might look a lot nicer than a concrete slab and might save you a lot of money. But before you start anything you need to make sure that your townhouse board is OK with any of this. There might be a specific type of fence ...


Unless you get a general contractor, you'll need both a concrete company and a fencing company. If I were doing this, I'd prep the footings for the fence first, then lay the concrete, and finish with the fencing. Using a bull float to finish the concrete would be extremely difficult in a 5x7 fenced in area. This is likely going to require some degree of ...


I have a quality steel Japanese made version of this style that is much thinner and sharper on the leverage end (right). The thin cross-section allows it to slide behind just about any molding without damaging the edges while the width of the blade spreads the force so it doesn't readily split the wood.


All you need to do is install the door with what is called a "jamb extension". Just get some strips of 5/8"x3/4" inch molding, then glue them to the non-hinge side of the new door jamb. On a painted jamb these will for all intents and purposes disappear with sanding and some wood putty. On a stained jamb you'll be able to see the extension, but you can ...


Take off the trim, remove the old frame, install the new frame, re-install trim or install new trim. That, or re-use the existing frame by hanging the new door in it.

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