New answers tagged

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Most of the motors associated with fans and such, utilize an induced magnetic field, and don't have a permanent magnet. So as the capacitor releases its charge (quickly), a magnetic field would be induced in the motor and cause the motor to turn maybe once or twice, and that should spend most, if not all, of the the stored charge. So the capacitor will ...


0

The only goof is that the 24V from the transformer is AC so it really doesn't have a + or - side to it -- it's more or less a "hot/neutral" thing instead. Otherwise, what you have drawn out will work just fine.


4

I'd suspect it's a secondary drain. It's possible that the main drain was simply overwhelmed, and the condensate level backed up to the point of the secondary drain. If it was really humid, a large volume of water could have been removed from the air. If the main drain is slow, it could have simply not been able to keep up. Without inspecting the system, ...


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I saw a video from Honeywell showing connecting the "G" wire of the old thermostat to the "C" connector on the new thermostat. It said you would lose the ability to run the fan while your furnace or A/C are not running, but the fan would continue to work as normal while either system is operating. That was Honeywell Smart thermostat. Sometimes we do run the ...


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Yeah, I am also agree with Ed Beal. how can your AC technician suggest you a new blower! a regular servicing of your unit may be the good solution for you, just clean your ac properly and you will be experience better cooling...


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I just finished (yesterday)installing a 15000 BTU window unit in the wall between my shop (two car garage)and my garage (adjoining one car garage). I'm leaving the garage door in my one car garage open to the outside and closing all the doors and windows in "the shop". So far it's working very well at cooling the shop on two very hot Southern California ...


1

ECM Motor Troubleshooting –yorkcentraltechtalk Troubleshooting the ECM motor can be very simple if you just remember that it's not just ON or OFF. There are basically 4 problems that will not allow the motor to run: There is no input power to the motor controller (high voltage input). There is improper or no communication to the motor (low voltage ...


1

HVAC transformers are commonly rated 24 volts, 40 volt-amperes (VA). So they should be capable of providing about 1.6 amperes. 40 VA ÷ 24 V = 1.666666 A However, the amount of current flowing, depends on what load is connected. If the load is only drawing 5 mA, then only 5 mA will flow on the wire.


1

Since you have an air handler and not a furnace -- I bet W does nothing whatsoever. Unhook that wire from W and connect it to COM 24V at the furnace end, then use it as your C wire for the new 'stat. And yes, the cable from Y and COM that follows the refrigerant line goes to the condenser unit outside.


1

Run a new cable with at least five conductors. Connect a wire between COM 24V, and the C terminal on the thermostat. The cable that connects to Y and COM 24V, goes out to the outdoor unit. If the indoor unit only blows air, and doesn't add heat. It's called an air handler.


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Since you're changing refrigerants, it's recommended to replace the condensing unit (outdoor unit), all the copper refrigerant lines, as well as the evaporator coil (inside the furnace). It's possible to keep the copper refrigerant lines, though it will require a bunch of extra work. And even still, not replacing the lines can reduce the life of the new ...


1

It's a waste of money to try. Especially if you're the guy who pays for the electricity. Captain Kirk didn't beam the Freon out. First, you'll want to fix your Freon leak. After all, air conditioners are generally sealed units, with only electrical wires entering the envelope that contains freon. However, they use a lot of aluminum, as it is a superb ...


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Air conditioners do not magically lose refrigerant. If refrigerant is missing, the air-conditioner leaks; if the leak is not fixed, it will continue to leak. A window unit is almost always a bad economic choice to attempt repairs on rather than replacement; since USA-based persons DO need a license to handle refrigerants, and anyone world-wide needs ...


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What you need to know: You are supposed to be EPA certified to work with freon, so the following is only for educational purposes and some pertinent information may be missing. An air conditioner should be cooling the air by about 15 to 20 degrees Fahrenheit. To check that, hold a thermometer in front of the air conditioner where the air is comming out. It ...


1

That sounds about right. It usually takes 5-15 minutes for me to fill 1 lb.


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Gotta love armchair quarterbacks. I live in the Caribbean. Houses are constructed of concrete block with stucco/parging covering the block. Roofs are usually terracotta tile or concrete tiles. Very few dwellings have an attic space to separate the exterior roof from the interior roof and insulation is a word that hasn't yet been defined here. Concrete stores ...


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An HVAC technician should be able to repair the line, assuming the rest of the line is in good shape. Refrigerant line repair is not a diy project, as it requires specialized tools and training, as well as a license in most places. After the leak is repaired, you'll have to recharge the system. Which also is not a project for a typical diyer.


1

Inside the unit, you should find a transformer. On the secondary side of the transformer (low voltage side) you should see a red wire attached to one terminal, and blue attached to the other. The terminal with the blue wire will also have a green with yellow strip wire, which attaches to the chassis. The blue wire is the C wire. Using a ...


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I bought the MistBox last year. This is a unit that take's all the guesswork out of Mist cooling your AC. I live in Las Vegas, NV. We enjoy humidity as low as 5 to 15% all summer. With normal around 100+ the whole summer.I installed it in minutes and it worked well. I could actually tell the difference immediately.The only negatives I read, while researching ...


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The condensing coil is the part the fan draws air through. look close if some fins are a little bent that will reduce the efficiency but it will still work with a new fan. Fans are easy a set screw holds the shaft or a hex nut make sure to get the same pitch and diameter they can be turned over to change air flow direction.


1

This type of failure is fairly common, and usually doesn't cause too much collateral damage, if caught quickly. If you want to attempt the work yourself, it is fairly straightforward as you describe. You'll likely have to source the replacement blade from a local HVAC company, or the internet. You'll also have to balance the blade, so that it doesn't ...


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I have the same exact problem. My system is in a closet near my stairs, with several returns downstairs and no returns upstairs. I've been told that the biggest problem is that there are no upstairs returns. The system was designed to heat the house before AC systems were popular. After previous owners installed the AC they decided not to spend the extra ...


3

Sounds like contactor chatter. Could be a bad contactor, or not enough power on the coil. Basically, the contactor is closing and opening really quickly. This happens when the coil doesn't create a strong enough magnetic field to hold the contactor closed. Depending on the cost of a new contactor, I'd probably just pop in a new one. If it doesn't fix the ...


1

208/120Y is cheaper for supplying condominiums because one neutral can carry the unbalanced loads of three ungrounded conductors. But for the consumer, the voltages difference of 208V vs 240V usually equates to the same overall wattage, with the only negligible concern being it takes longer for heating elements to reach their desired temperature. As for ...


1

Volts x Amperage=Wattage I have a 220 volt device (motor, dryer whatever... it makes little difference for this example). Single phase device draws 43 amps (43 x 220 = ~ 9460 Watts or 9.5 KW) Same unit with 3 phase draws 25 amps (25 x 220 =~ 5500 Watts or 5.5 KW) *** The same amount of work is output with either unit despite the 3 phase using less power ...


2

Sounds like a blown compressor. Bad contacters don't usually pop fuses. And if it was simply the fan not coming on, the compressor should trip its own over-heat, not your breakers (unless it's old and grumpy: same prognosis; dead compressor). If I were to keep trying to fix at that unit, the first thing I would do is install a "fused" (circuit breaker) ...


0

Where exactly did you hear the noise from? If it was coming from the lineset somewhere, that may be an 'easy' fix. If it seemed to be coming from the inside coil or the condenser outside, that's a much more involved fix (basically, you'll have to replace that whole part), as I don't think any kind of "leak stopper" will suffice if you heard it blow (those ...


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Call a local HVAC company, it sounds like a refrigerant leak. Don't run the system until somebody has looked at it, as you could damage the compressor and/or other components.


0

Think twice before you do that, and talk to your sysadmin. Do not do anything which would compromise the cooling in the server room. If you don't like the balance, consider "portable air conditioner" units which dump the cool into the server room and the waste heat into the office space. We had a big industrial unit, and it worked rather nicely. Now they ...


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According to the NAHB, the average lifespan of heat pumps in the US is about 16 years. A Google search seems to reveal a wide range of opinions about Goodman heat pumps in particular.


1

I just had this exact issue. I called the HVAC emergency service number and the technician called me back. He advised to unscrew the bottom of the kill switch or float. There is a yellow wire that leads to it. Once I drained all the water ,the system turned on instantly. Hope that helps.


1

Not being level can cause the oil for the compressor to not lubricate correctly. Over time it will cause the compressor to burn out costing you lots of $ in the long run.


0

Make sure you put the batteries in right. Don't let the springs fool you like they did me. I put both batteries in with the - (minus) sides on the springs. Don't do that. Put one battery with the + side on the spring. It should show you the + signs on the battery holder. hth


0

Considering it's cycling on and off I wouldn't think it's the freon. I would look at the high pressure cut-off first. You might be building too much pressure and causing it to shut down.


0

Raid the parts bin for ducting for home shop dust collectors (vacuum cleaners optimized for sawdust). Typically they are 4-6” diameter, snap together and/or have flexible sections, and are plumbed to several machines. Each machine gets a guillotine style shut-off gate. The gate can be controlled precisely. They also make automatic gates which open when ...


1

I was able to easily open the plate dampers with Vise Grip Pliers. The locking mechanism on the Vise Grip is great. As Ed Beal stated in his comment, I think replacing the damper is a good solution because it 1) saves time looking for an obscure part and 2) manual dampers are not too expensive.


0

Could well be it is overheating and shutting down. Have you had the Freon checked lately? You can put a food thermometer in an vent opening; if the temperature at the vent is over 65 degrees Fahrenheit it is probably low on Freon, and the A/C unit is trying to run 100% of the time to try to cool down.


1

If the lines are two small it will change the efficiency and work the compressor harder. It is tough to fully clean the old mineral oil out that was used in older units. If the R410 smells acidic this could be an indication that the old oil was still in the system and mineral oil and ester oil don't mix. If there is old oil in the system this can cause early ...


4

On the AC side everything really needs to be changed R22 uses mineral oil based lubricants. R410a uses ester oil lubricants. Getting all the residue out would cost a bunch and these can’t be mixed. The compressor will need to be changed and the TXV / orifice will need to be changed. You might be able to have the evaporator cleaned (indoor coil) if it is in ...


4

Any way of circulating the air between the rooms will help, although I doubt you will be able to achieve uniform temperatures. Put the AC in the room that is hotter (e.g. has more windows) and then do the best you can with a fan or two. Also, make sure the AC is properly sized for the area you want to cool.


0

Well ..one of the possible reasons is that the compressor lost refrigerant. I just realized that. My compressor was doing the job but not well enough. I was not experienced enough so I could say that the tin around the coils should have been a lot colder than it was and the house would eventually reach the set temperature but after some time which made me ...


1

You'd need a closed system with a serious dose of antifreeze to get cold enough for significant cooling. Radiators usually run at least 40C above the desired room temperature to provide heat. To get the same amount of heat transfer into the radiators for cooling, the circulating water would have to be as cold as a freezer (-20C). Possibly by running 24 ...


1

Dew point below coil temperature. Plugged condensate drain. Coil temperature below freezing (0°C/32°F).


1

Condensate is a byproduct of air conditioning, which is created when moisture in the air condenses on the cold evaporator coils. There are two situations where an air conditioner would not generate condensate. If there's no moisture in the air, then there's nothing to condense out of the air. If the coils are not cold enough (below the dew point), the ...


-1

If it sounds like liquid than I'd guess that the pump that circulates the coolant isn't being submerged properly when in its sleep state, and only once it gets a good vacuum and liquid pouring into its reservoir does it quiet down. I'd have someone check the fluid levels as you may need more of whatever coolant (Freon?) it uses.


3

I think you'd end up running into a whole boat load of issues before you could even begin talking about efficiency. The first and most pressing being the rapid condensation that would occur within seconds of circulating the cold liquid (leaving you with a whole host of other DIY problems you'd need to work out). Which, I imagine would need to be somewhere ...


0

This is unconventional for a residence but it will work, although not quite as efficiently as the heating in winter. You will need a source of cool water. If you have an artesian spring on your property or a stream running through it, the project might be worthwhile. Otherwise you will need to install a chiller, and you may have trouble finding a HVAC ...


0

I've been the HVAC industry for more than three decades. To answer both of your questions: The ideal installation would involve installing a return and a supply to each room. This allows you to accurately and more precisely control the climate in each room. The answer to your second question: Yes, you will need to insulate the ducting outside the insulated ...


2

As written this question is pretty hard to answer. It sounds like you're having AC problems tho and need a test method. Find or purchase 2 probe type thermometers like thermometers. Analog or digital doesn't matter, the only things that are important are that they have a probe and that they give the same reading laying next to each other on a table (you ...


2

The voltage needs to be the same, and the VA needs to be greater or equal to what you have now. If your transformer is 40VA and you replace with 60VA, that is fine. I would stay within parts intended for use in HVAC units. Electronics supply houses will happily sell you 24VAC transformers, but they may not be listed (certified) for HVAC use. Anyway, ...



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