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Another alternative is to build out one side of the wall that is away from the brace side. For example you could attach 2x2s to the edge of each stud to open up the wall cavity to another 1.5". This actually removes only a small amount of finished space in the room. If done all the way across one wall surface you would probably hardly realize that that one ...


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One thing you could look into would be flat oval ducting: You can get it as small as 3" in the smaller dimension, but it will likely be a lot harder to find and a lot more expensive. Also, it will compound the issue @iLikeDirt pointed out in keeping it clean, especially if you have transitions to round pipe anywhere. I would also limit yourself to one ...


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I definitely agree with iLikeDirt, but if you have no choice you can use oval duct such as this: http://www.deflecto.com/products/pc/Skinny-Duct-Aluminum-Dryer-Vent-br-4-Oval-Duct-Adjustable-27-48-4p445.htm If anything, as a safety precaution you should foil tape ALL joints and even elbows. I do this as standard even for exposed duct work. DO NOT use ...


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I wouldn't build it that way in the first place. Hiding a dryer duct within a wall and venting it through the roof (I'm guessing here, but that's what it looks like to me) is just begging for nobody to clean it until it eventually catches fire and burns the house down. I recently re-did my utility room and discovered an in-wall rigid steel duct just like ...


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The room in question is fairly large and has several heat loss factors. Not withstanding the fact that the room sits on the cold basement floor, has large windows etc., the main problem is that the temp in the room is not thermostatically controlled properly. The only thermostat and heat zone is on the main floor and controls heat based on temps in the main ...


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If you have ductwork in place, you should be able to use a humidifier such as the Honeywell TrueSteam or the Aprilaire 800 that can operate independently. They "Accommodate crawl spaces, attics and areas of the country with milder winters and non-forced air heating."


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For research on this topic see: http://www.advancedenergy.org/portal/crawl_spaces/pdfs/Moisture%20Solution%20Becomes%20Efficiency%20Bonanza.pdf Moisture Solution Becomes Efficiency Bonanza in Southeastern United States Bruce Davis and Cyrus Dastur, Advanced Energy If you open up venting between basement and the dirt crawl, cover the dirt crawl with a ...


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Q1: The coil can get plugged with contaminants. Maybe if it was improperly filled, or water got in through a leak. Both situations tend to be rare. Q2: I'm sure diagnostic equipment exists, but most techs would either just flush it or pull new copper line. Some other things that tend to cause frozen coils: Restricted airflow due to a dirty or plugged ...



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