New answers tagged hvac
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Use a Network Cable Tester
To find short- and open-circuit conductors in any low-voltage multi conductor cable, I recommend
isolating the cable from all devices (i.e. disconnect it from the furnace/heatpump/AC and thermostat), and
using a network cable electrical tester and RJ45 breakout adapters to test it.
RJ45 Breakout Adapter
You need two of ...
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This is a classic sign of a plugged up evaporator coil. If the unit was run in a house with a lot of dust or pet hair some of the dust and dirt will get through the filter. One way to check it is to check the temp in the return air duct and then check it at the supply plenum, if it is greater than ten degrees it is a good indication of air blockage.
The ...
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At 5 meters, your actually well within the allowed length of duct work allowed for a dryer vent (depending on how many bends you have).
International Residential Code (IRC) 2012
Section M1502 Clothes Dryer Exhaust
M1502.4.1 Material and size.
Exhaust ducts shall have a smooth interior finish and be constructed of metal having a minimum ...
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One way would be a Heat Recovery Ventilator(HRV) that exchanges interior air for outside, which will relieve negative pressure.
Another would be a dampered (and screened) make-up air that connects to the cold air return (a low tech (and low cost) HRV). These can be tied to exhaust fans or automatic via pressure differential. You would want a HVAC firm to ...
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Honeywell humidifiers are really good - with experience with one in last house. Our heating costs went down by 15% and our house didn't have static everywhere in the winter. Mine was a steam too and it cost me about $400 total after a couple of quick trips to Lowes. Took me about 3 hours (counting the 2 trips) to install.
So let's say it takes a whole ...
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The compressor is the "engine" of the AC system. It, and a few valves, and the condenser fan, comprise all the active portions. Everything else is passive. The compressor is an electrical motor connected to a precision pump. The pump has to be lubricated by sufficient refrigerant (Freon or substitutes). If a compressor seizes, it may burn out the ...
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The large, cold, low pressure line, carrying the evaporated coolant from the house, should be insulated to prevent condensation. The small, warm, high pressure line, carrying condensed coolant into the house, should not be insulated. I am not an air conditioning professional. However, en.allexperts.com, www.bobvila.com, and www.familyhandyman.com, all agree ...
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I think DMoore nailed it already, but as I have explored this topic due to a similar problem in my own house, I'll list some other options to consider for future visitors:
Evaluate sources of heat in the room. Computers, lamps, etc. Replacing an inefficient device with one that generates less heat can be a huge benefit.
Insulate or replace windows. ...
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I have a couple of long runs too and I used a fan until I upgraded the HVAC unit. Before you get a booster you need to measure the air flow out of the two vents and compare them to other vents in the house.
How to measure air flow? Well pick up an Air Flow Meter. However I have a suggestion before you spend $$$ on this. Get a large trash bag, ...
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If the blower fan assembly turns freely when when it is removed from the forced air unit then there must be either something that is adjacent to where the blower mounts that has gotten in there. When the blower is out check very carefully for anything that may be in there. Maybe there is a flap, piece of insulation or even a dead animal that got into that ...
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There are three methods for removing glued PVC pipe fittings, that I'm aware of.
Heat
If the bit of pipe that's stuck inside the fitting is heated, the bond can be broken and the pipe removed. They make expensive specialized heating tools for this, or you can burn it out!
Reaming
In this method, the pipe is bored out of the fitting. Expensive ...
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use a hacksaw blade to cut through the pipe (stoping before the socket) then put a small flat blade or chisel in the groove you have cut in the pipe, twist the tool to break the glue and the inside pipe will peel out of the socket. The other option is to put plumbers glue in the pipe and set fire to it to melt the glue around the pipe but as I cant see what ...
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However you end up fixing this do plan to use a more repairable solution that used by the original installer. It is an insane approach to cement or stucco in a glued plastic fitting like this. As a minimum the part that gets cemented in place should be made out of metal with brass or bronze being preferred over an iron type fitting. The outside pipe should ...
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Generally, no, air conditioners for homes do not draw in fresh air.
If you want fresh air you need an air-to-air heat exchanger. This brings in air from the outside and exhausts air to the outside at the same time, but moves the heat from one air flow to the other. In the winter, the outgoing air gives up its heat to the incoming air, while during the ...
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What you're after is an HVAC system. Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning.
Excerpt from HVAC Wikipedia article:
The three central functions of heating, ventilating, and
air-conditioning are interrelated, especially with the need to provide
thermal comfort and acceptable indoor air quality within reasonable
installation, operation, and ...
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You can insulate the "liquid line" (the smaller one from the unit to the evaporator) as it carries the refrigerant that has been cooled and compressed and ready to absorb more heat. It might improve efficiency in extreme heat situations, but more than likely it wouldn't be drastically noticeable. You do not however want to insulate the big line or "suction" ...
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I'll ask my dad about this for the proper professional opinion, but after working with him for a few years or so, I can already tell you that you don't have the required tools or EPA license to work with refrigerant.
Also the window unit isn't designed to handle a line-set even 1/4 that long. In general a window unit is much too small to handle such a job, ...
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Disconnect the power
Start by turning off the breaker, and pulling the serviceman disconnect, which will typically look something like this.
This will insure no electricity is flowing to the condenser unit while you're working.
Open the unit
Next you'll want to disassemble the unit, to allow access to the electrical parts. This will vary from unit to ...
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There is a set of connections in the air handler that usually includes the "C" terminal, and it should be labelled (though it may be hard to read depending on the location of the control board and/or wiring/etc in the way).
One way to tell for sure is that while the furnace is not running, using a multi-meter you can measure between the "C" and "R" (or Rh ...
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I would first try touching the R and G together at the thermostat board (the wires coming out of the wall) and seeing if the fan turns on. If it does, then all the wiring is correct. If it doesn't, then I would try to do the same thing with two short wires that have been attached to the thermostat control board R and G terminals. If it still doesn't, then ...
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List of possible causes and fixes:
Insufficient airflow.
You have identified this issue but not the cause.
1) Take all air filters out of the system. Give the system 30-40 minutes and see if this fixes the issue.
2) Ensure all vents are fully open.
3) Verify and/or adjust the cooling blower's air speed. WARNING: Turn the power off to the HVAC before ...
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