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4

If the camp has internet access, you may want to look into a WIFI-controlled thermostat. Most allow you to remotely monitor and control the temperature through a mobile phone app or with a laptop web interface. This will allow you to have the most versatile control over your temperature settings. The only other piece of equipment you'll need to make this ...


2

Depending on your location, it would likely be more economical to open the house up and circulate air with fans to bring down the trapped heat and then turn on the AC. It won't be cool when you arrive, but it will become tolerable very quickly. If air conditioning is required, and you have some sort of network connectivity, I'd look into home automation. ...


1

There's a couple questions that have to be answered, before you'll know for sure if there's a problem or not. First is if there's any combustion appliances in the closet (e.g. gas furnace)? If there are, they'll need to draw combustion air from somewhere. Which leads to the second question, is there a duct to draw combustion air from the outside into the ...


1

If you want anything close to an accurate answer. You're going to have to tell us a bit more about the wiring between the thermostat and the furnace, or include some photos of the wiring. And include make, and model numbers for all the equipment involved. Most furnaces manage the blower themselves during a heat call, i.e. the thermostat simply energizes ...


0

Page 28 of the installation manual (PDF) says this: Filters All G40UH(X) filters are installed external to the unit. Filters should be inspected monthly. Clean or replace the filters when necessary to ensure proper furnace operation. Replacement filters must be rated for high velocity airflow. Table 1 lists recommended filter sizes.


0

If all is well with your outside unit, I would double-check your AC coil in the main unit indoors. It could be frozen over and thus not cooling the air. This same exact thing happened to us about 3 weeks ago. We moved into a "new" house (new to us anyways, haha) and not many things were being taken care of well... in simple terms, a freeze-over like this can ...


0

I just had a new furnace installed. They sealed the ducts with 3" aluminum backed mastic tape. It's expensive stuff, this roll costs $40 on Amazon. It might be cheaper your local HVAC dealer, and I doubt you will find it at Home Depot or Lowes. Carlisle HVAC manufactures a few different mastic tapes, they have a tool to help find a local distributor. Here ...


0

A thermostat like this could do the trick for you, just wire it to something like a bathroom vent fan in the ceiling. Then run some duct work or flexible tubing into the HVAC duct system where you want it to go (or optionally just add a vent somewhere for the air to come out) A fan that size can be very quiet which is good and the throughput of a small fan ...


0

To be honest it just depends on how many cfm of duct work u already have installed in your home your unit is designed to cary 1200 cfm of air at 3 tons so if you've already reached 1200 cfm you would not have the capacity to supply another vent unless you had one room that stays cooler than the rest that you could downsize the duct on to provide you with the ...


0

What insulation and air sealing is present in the walls and especially the ceiling/attic space? Where do the ducts run and are they sealed (especially in unconditioned spaces such as the attic) What year is the building?


1

Condensate drip and accumulation are normal, especially during the summer months. It is also very normal to find the drain lines terminated close to the house as you have described. Whether it is acceptable I guess could be argued based on the volume of water in question and where it is collecting. If the accumulation of water is getting worrisome, you ...


0

I'd say maybe you don't, if it doesn't have any exterior walls, which it does, so that's a yes. Drywall is the enemy. This is also a good time to upgrade any of the electrical on the interior walls as well. You're two steps from a gut job; go for it. As to whether you need more registers elsewhere, I don't know; I'm not a math wiz: calculate the heat load ...


0

If the compressor is measured at the compressor connector pins under the connector cover with the conductors (wires) removed and any point reads to ground or any resistance less than infinity, the compressor is fried, dead, gone.


2

Any area that contains water lines should be heated if temps hit freezing where you live. Crawl spaces without insulation should also be heated in these climates particularly if you have non-carpeted floors above them to avoid cold floors in the winter. Also, I'm not an HVAC expert, but I've been told you should condition the air through which uninsulated ...


2

Assuming the question is why can't your AC keep your home cooler, there are several possibilities: The AC is low on refrigerant, look for a temperature difference of 14-20°F between the return and vents to see if the unit is cooling efficiently. If you're low, you will likely need to call a professional to pressurize the system and check for any leaks. ...


1

iLikeDirt is wrong. If your air conditioner cannot cool your house to 74 when the outside temperature is 90, then something is wrong. Either the air conditioner is undersized or it not working properly. You should check the air filters and air vents but you may need to call in a specialist to check the unit itself. My units have kept my house at 74 with ...


0

Your AC unit is fine. YOU on the other hand, might be feeling a bit toasty. Looks like you need more attic insulation and a radiant barrier.


0

AS WE KNOW 1 TR = 3.516 KW FOR 5TR IT IS= 3.516X5 =17.58 KW CURRENT FOR 430 V SUPPLY = 17.58X1000/(1.73*430*0.9) ASSUMING pf 0.9 =17580/669.51 =26.2 AMP (APPROX)


0

You may need to know where your incoming and return vents are located. In my house both incoming and return vents are located on the walls but near floor level. So for a/c, the cold air comes out the registers and before it has a chance to rise and cool the the floor it is returned for another pass. If my system was inefficient maybe the cool air would ...


1

Could be as simple as not moving air effectively when spinning the wrong way, so no load (or small load) on motor. Spin the right way, air is moved, motor slows down, work is done. Try blocking off the intake or output and see if the lack of air movement causes the fan (& motor) to speed up again.


0

You need to look at the wiring diagram for the motor, you may have a two or three speed motor and need to change the wire leads to the correct set for a higher speed.


0

If you are a diy'er like myself and not an air conditioning expert, realize that insulating external piping does allow for the most efficient operation and does not have to be complicated. On my outside unit I could not get regular split-form insulation to stay in place and not deteriorate rapidly where the unit is exposed to the sun. I took a serrated blade ...


1

Outside A/C compressors are typically supported on a concrete pad, concrete blocks, or a vinyl pad such as the one shown in the photo at page top. The air conditioner compressor support pad should be level and secure against movement. Compressors which are badly out of level may fail to function properly and need adjustment. Tipping and moving ...


1

Refrigerant needs to flow through the coils evenly without too much interference from the slope of the unit. A level concrete slab with rubber pads between the unit and the concrete is what the manufacturers recommend. "Mostly level" is probably okay for a residential unit. Get a half-inch thick outdoor rubber mat and cut it into 6"x6" squares. Put single ...


0

In a quick perusal of answers I didn't see this covered: About ten years ago it got to 118° here, and our A/C couldn't keep the inside temperature below 85°. A few days late while replacing the return air filter I noticed a lot of gaps between the filter and the return air duct. I taped them up with plenty of metal tape and never had that problem again. It ...


2

In addition to DA01's excellent answer, here are a few more suggestions that may give you enough minor improvements to prevent having to upgrade your A/C system. Be sure that the output vents in all rooms are all the way open, and open the interior doors of every room with an output vent (though opening doors may be less important if each room has its own ...


0

find out where the heat exit is and place a really fast fan there to help getting the hot air out. Some ACs accumulate water and need to be emptied, not sure which ones. I also remember my driving instructor who always opened the car windows and then complained the AC is not working properly. That's not how it works. Make sure all windows are closed, and ...


4

It does sound like the biggest opponent the AC is facing is the large picture window. I'm guessing it's just not a well insulated and/or not high-e glass and just letting too much heat in. For starters, close the internal blinds. If that isn't enough, consider some exterior blinds. These aren't terribly expensive and shouldn't be something that the landlord ...


3

The apartment is gaining more heat throughout the day than the AC is able to remove. Unfortunately, as a renter, there isn't much you can do about this. The real solution is to improve the building's insulation, plant shade trees, replace old windows with Low-E ones, add radiant barriers, etc. But all of those options would lie with the landlord, not you, ...


0

You'll need a transformer to step down mains voltage, to 24 volts that the thermostat can use. And you'll need a relay that can work with 24 volts. You'll wire it up something like this. When the thermostat calls for heat, the relay contact will be pulled closed. This will signal the fireplace to turn on. NOTE: the three contacts used on the ...


0

A) Transformer. B) Relay or electronic relay, 24V in switching whatever on the output side.


-1

True. Three phase power may be supplied in residents according to the authority having jurisdiction. Here in Louisiana three phase power is forbidden in residential areas and limited to commercial and industrial applications. However, I do know a couple of rich guys who actually have their homes powered by three phase distribution. I don't mean to be rude ...


0

If the lights are dimming several times while the unit is running, the only thing you can check is listen to the outdoor unit to determine if the compressor is unexpectedly starting and stopping when it should be running continuously. Set the thermostat to a low setting and listen outside to see if you can hear the compressor starting and stopping at about ...


1

Your capacitor is too small. The new motor you list requires a 10 MFD capacitor to run at 240 VAC. Since the OEM capacitor in the unit is only 5 MFD, the new motor will randomly run backward and it will run with far less than its rated HP. Also, you should connect the new motor to run on LOW (red wire). These universal replacement condenser fan motors ...


0

I agree with Tester101 on how to connect a new "C" terminal. As for how the current setup works, the existing thermostat does not require any external power to function (it is an old mechanical contact type or is battery powered). There is no need for the "C" terminal because control is achieved by closing contacts between control power (Rh, +24v) and Y, W ...


0

Your photo shows a heat pump thermostat with control for 1 stage of auxiliary heat which is also used as emergency heat if the heat pump completely fails and emergency mode is selected on the thermostat (that's why W and E are wired together). From your description you have a heat pump which may not have any working auxiliary heat and your orange wire ...


1

Before you call a repair person, check the following: Look at the UL label of the outdoor unit. Find the item marked "Minimum Circuit Ampacity." This is the minimum size of circuit breaker required for your unit. Verify that your tripping breaker is at least this big. If it is too small, then you may need to upgrade the electric service to the unit. It ...


0

In a "common ground" dual transformer system the commons (or "ground") for the heating and cooling transformers must be connected to each other and supplied to the thermostat through a single connection at the "C" terminal. In this arrangement, it is very important to keep the Rc and Rh (power from the cooling and heating transformers) separated and the ...


1

In order of questions asked: It is best to install the indoor unit near the area of maximum heat loss and gain. Above a window is a fine place, provided you have space to run the refrigerant piping and condensate line. Near a corner is okay, but a less central location means there will be a longer time required to circulate air around the room. As a ...


2

Nice chart. This looks like abnormally frequent triggering of the defrost cycle. Typically this will occur if the unit is severely low on charge or when the outdoor thermostatic expansion valve (TEV) has failed and is restricting flow of refrigerant through the outdoor coil so severely that the coil freezes in an abnormally short period of time, triggering ...


0

Thank you for asking. Your thermostat 24V wire line is lose, interrupted, broken or oxidized. Solution : disconnect old 24V line, and run new line, if this restores your blower motor function the old one was defective. Thank you and have a nice day.


0

Leave the door - first and foremost, for fire safety, second, to keep from having all the cold air run downstairs and all the hot air run upstairs and then going nuts trying to keep any setting on either floor, especially if there isn't (would not expect with separate systems) a duct to circulate air between floors. If you have a door, you can let the lower ...


0

Retrofitting HVAC into a home requires all of the standard trades, and then some. If your carpentry, pipe-fitting, metal-working, electrical and brazing skills aren't up to snuff, consider contracting it out. In short, depending on the level of accessibility, basically the entire house gets torn apart. That's what's known in the industry as, a can of worms. ...


3

Disconnects are required when the equipment is too far from, or not within sight of the breaker (or branch circuit disconnect) (commonly known as "Serviceman disconnects" or "Serviceman switches"). This is required so that while you're working on the equipment, it's less likely somebody will accidentally energize the equipment (flip the breaker on). ...


0

This is the simplest answer based on the NEC. The NEC also outlines when and where a disconnect is needed, but I believe this is the overriding rule in your case. 110.3 Examination, Identification, Installation, and Use of Equipment. (B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with any ...


1

Too small a temperature swing on the thermostat can cause this issue as well. Many electronic thermostats have an adjustable temperature swing of 0.5, 1, 2 degrees. If this value is set too low and the compressor is restarted too soon (less than 10-15 minutes) after a cycle, it can trip a breaker as the compressor struggles to start against a pressurized ...


0

In the condensing unit, locate the contactor. There should be at least two low voltage terminals on the contactor (commonly on the side). Run a two wire cable between the condensing unit, and the furnace. Connect the wires from the cable, to the low voltage terminals on the contactor. In the furnace, connect one of the wires from this cable to the Y ...


1

The tech seems to think the HZ322 is going bad. The good news is they are not terribly expensive and fairly easy to program. So since it started working he could not say what was wrong.


0

If you're worried about mineral buildup then buy a water filter. Go to Lowe's or Home Depot and get the 5 year inline water filter cartridge. I've thought about this too and living in the Panhandle of Oklahoma the weather is about the same conditions. We used a swamp cooler back in the day and I thought it worked just fine, so I thought about building a ...



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