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0

Same thing my the system in my house. Uses a MERV 16 5". Smell was the filter itself. Dont know what it picked up, but it was generating its own odor. Whew ! I think it started after I baked a beef roast. which smoked a bit when in the oven. Maybe something in rhe meat ?


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A whistling sound at the return often indicates the grill is too small relative to the duct attached to it. Does consistently leaving the doors open allow the system to sufficiently heat and cool the home? For most bedrooms with more than 100 cfm of supply aor a 1 inch door cut is not sufficient opening for return air. If you have carpet installed it is ...


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One option would be "low-volume, high-velocity" ducted system (manufacturers include SpacePak and Unico) that uses a series of small 2" diameter ducts to distribute air. Depending on the size of your joists, 2" holes may be acceptable. As @Ecnerwal mentioned, mini-splits can be a good option too.


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You could put in a non-forced air heating system - ie, hydronic or radiant, using water in pipes to deliver heat. You could use mini-splits for A/C only or for heat and A/C. You only need space for ducts if you need ducts, and there are plenty of houses without ducts... Edit: you may be able to work with a wide, shallow duct so you can have a broad, not too ...


2

Mini-splits have many advantages, so tossing them out wholesale is a somewhat puzzling response to a house with limited options for running ducts. If you don't like beige plastic boxes (who does, really?) there are several versions that are made to be visually unobtrusive, with the inside unit concealed in a picture frame, or a small inside unit that can be ...


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Solar panels may make sense, but they will make exactly as much sense no matter whether you're using the power for heat, to run the rest of your household, to sell power back to the grid, or a combination of those. As others have said, start with air-sealing and improving insulation. Your power company may offer free on-site surveys and some subsidized ...


2

Reducing drafts are the first place to start. It's your best return on your investment. (as others have said already) The test to do is a "Blower door test". I did one myself with a fairly powerful fan, some plywood and a window. I think I can get my hands on a thermal imaging camera from a friend, but so far I've been able to detect leaks fairly easily ...


5

Electric resistance heat is expensive, no way around it. Here are a couple of high-level things you can do to reduce your bill: Common sense: Stop using your fireplace (it's sucking more heat out of the house than it's adding. Free. Conservation: Turn down the heat and wear more clothes. Free. Efficiency: Improve your house's level of air sealing and ...


8

Entirely apart from the high cost of electric resistance heat, (that is, regardless of heat source) a 1969 house is almost certainly going to benefit from insulation upgrades and the boring best bang-for the buck stuff nobody ever thinks is "fancy enough" to go for first - caulking, weatherstripping, and generally reducing air leakage. With the advent of ...


0

The black garbage bags are a good idea, but wrong usage. Put everything you can't clean in the garbage bags and put them in the sun outside. The bedbugs will die or scurry away looking for shade. There's more to getting rid of bedbugs than just this. It's really very simple, get a toothpick and go around the apartment. Anywhere the toothpick fits, ...


5

The bigger issue is that if there are bedbugs in your apartment, the whole building is probably infested. Your best bet is probably to isolate yourself from the bedbugs and set a CO2 bedbug trap. Look into finding a new apartment.


2

I dont think you will be able to effectively heat the room to 140 deg. The main problem is Insulation. Escaped heat: Your room is probably not insulated for the cold (as much as some other climates). so internally heating your room may require a large amount of source heat since much will escape. Insulation from Room Components: items such as beds, wall ...


1

Sounds to me like you need the system balanced. A common issue in all homes new or old is that the thermostat satisfies before the upper floor is properly conditioned. Another issue is that normally the main-floor return air is located near or under the thermostat. I would recommend getting damper-able registers for the entire main floor, and especially the ...


1

Given that those are very distinctive smells, the items mentioned are probably in the heating unit. Possibly as part of some animals's nest, if you don't have small children who might have put them there...might want to open it up and clear them out before you have a fire.


4

I would guess that modifying the duct work in a 1920s masonry construction home will be prohibitively destructive and involving removing or damaging irreplaceable trim that contributes to the building's character. Mini split heat pumps: An alternative, which will not be inexpensive but may be significantly less destructive, would be investigating ...


1

Without seeing the layout of the house, materials, etc., and its external environment—trees, exterior finishes, etc.—all I can do is speak in generalities. Cooling By providing adequate cooling upstairs, downstairs—especially with an open stairway—should need minimal targeted cooling. It might be sufficient to mostly close ...


11

After reviewing the spec sheet for the unit i have found that the LX series has a variable speed blower that will allow the unit to operate under low ambient conditions. Is specifies the system can operate down to 20 degrees. Anything below this and the system will not operate. If you do not have the LX unit and do have the standard, the. The unit is not ...


3

It is not expected to work, but it might. Many modern compressors have interlocks that prevent them coming on in too-low temperatures. If there's no interlock or heating element, you could also damage or destroy your compressor if you turn it on at too-low temperatures. This is because it is possible to pull liquid rather than gaseous refrigerant into the ...


0

I have had similar problem, but my 3/4" condensate drain (not the 2" exhaust pipe) is the problem. My unit was installed with a heat pump & the condensate drain runs on the outside of the house from the attic inside of a large piece of downspout w/ the Freon lines. I have considered heat tape, but the manufacturers say that it is not to be used on drain ...


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With certain versions of the nest thermostat they require the C or common wire for operation. The nest thermostat needs 5 wires to accommodate the extra common wire. Check to see that how many wires the thermostat wire is. You may be lucky and have the extra wire tucked in behind the thermostat. Another possible issue, if you do have 5 wires hooked up at ...


1

You might be able to do it yourself. Google for "service instructions <brand and model>" of the furnace to determine where the limit switch is located. With power disconnected, open the necessary panel(s) to assess whether it is something you would be comfortable doing. It may require removal of the blower assembly and/or reaching past sharp and ...


1

Replacing the tank eliminates the most common suspects, although it is conceivably possible that you've just had terrible luck and there's a similar issue with the new tank as well. You can test the capacity of your water heater using this procedure, filling buckets with hot water and measuring the temperature to see how much you can draw down before it gets ...


0

I also have this problem. So far, the best solution has been to shine a desklamp with an incandescant bulb on the last couple of inches of the tube before it exits the house, and on the hole the tube goes through. There is only a very short length outside of the house. This has worked all winter -- until this weekend, when we have had unprecedented cold ...


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It sounds like this pipe was originally an air intake, but that since it was installed, the furnace closet has been substantially altered. Since you're in California and this involves combustion appliances, there's bound to be a code official involved at some point, and he'll tell you what an appropriate source of combustion air would be. It's possible ...


2

It could be an intake. Furnaces require combustion air, which can only be taken from certain sources. If the furnace is in a utility closet (or surrounded by living space), the pipe could be supplying combustion air. If this is the case, it cannot be removed. Without more detail, it's impossible to definitively answer this question.


1

Your basement return air should have a damper installed which should allow you to restrict the amount of air drawn in by it. If your house is older it may not have this however in all newer homes this damper is installed by the ductwork installers. If it is not it is not very hard to add one. The damper is slightly smaller than the opening of the return ...


2

You should have a meeting with your contractor and the HVAC contractor, and have them explain exactly what's going on. Ask them to show you whatever calculations they're using to determine the equipment size, and have them explain how a single unit can replace two units. It's possible that they're installing a larger single unit, to eliminate the need for ...


0

I'm far from being a HVAC person, but I do like to figure things out on my own. I had the same thing happen and before you order a $300 part, all I did was take it apart and clean it really well. I used graphite lubricant on the blades and 3-in-1 on the shaft of the motor and guess what?!! It puuuurs now ;) Hope this helps.


0

You and your contractor agreed on duel split systems. However, he contacted an HVAC company who said otherwise and is interestingly, offering a down-sell on this install. (They make their real money up-charging for equipment. So as long as the zoning isn't going to cost big bucks, what's the problem?) My guess is that someone finally got around to doing the ...


1

Since efficiency is your concern, why don't you install a geothermal system? There are geothermal split systems (example) that are designed to use very little space indoors.


0

I have a Honeywell Wi-Fi thermostat that quits communicating at 55 degrees. It is repeatable and verifiable. All other functions of the stat work fine. I have it programmed to ramp up the temperature on a set schedule and that works but as soon as it drops below 55 it stops talking to Honeywell's server. It still maintains the connection with the router ...


0

The quick answer is that the humidifier/vaporizer causes the orange flame. This happened to us a couple of weeks ago. The gas company said they would send over a technician. He called us first to confirm our orange flame. He asked if we recently turned on a humidifier/vaporizer. We had. We shut it off and things went back to normal in an hour or so. I ...


6

Can you do this? ABSOLUTELY NOT!! Aside from (likely multiple) code violations you will never filter the lint out and will create a dangerous situation inside the furnace plenum, aside from clogging the furnace filter probably weekly.


0

It is a split phase motor there will be a run capacitor some where . the wiring is white is common black is high blue is med red is low . you have to look at the sticker on motor to find out what voltage the motor is it will be either 115 or 230 volts but not both. if your just using it to move air pick the speed you want and insulate the other 2 wires so if ...


0

It's either a dirty unit or a capacitor problem. If the unit is very dusty you need to clean out the dust to let it breathe. If the capacitor went bad, when you look at it the top will be bubbled up. Most likely it's the capacitor. Change your filters: a dirty filter is what an AC mechanic loves; it's money in the bank for him.


0

Wow, everything looks wrong. The contractor that built your house needs to read a little book called "uniform building code." Like you noticed, your HVAC vent is wrong. Cut off all that PVC on the wall and install a vent/intake box. Your gas and electric are too close, UBC says your natural gas vent should be no less than 3 feet from electric service. ...



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