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1

IMO the most likely culprit for an A/C tripping a properly sized breaker is a poor connection/corrosion at the breaker. The breaker gets hot and tricks the thermal trip mechanism into opening the breaker.


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Very generally speaking, provided the outside air temperature is 80F or warmer, correctly operating modern residential split systems should have a condenser temperature split of 15-20 degrees F. If you measure the temperature of the air leaving the top of the condenser with a thermometer, it should be 15-20 degrees F warmer than the temperature of the air ...


1

I know its a little late but I had a similar problem and my coils were stopped up with dirt. I cleaned my coils with coil cleaner and a tooth brush and rinsed with water. Make sure you brush with the grain on the coil so it doesn't get damaged. Then rinse with water. I repeated this process 3 times because it was so dirty. I used a pump up sprayer to rinse. ...


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First determine if this is a blower problem or an A/C problem. You mention "when the A/C is on the fan sometimes stops for a few minutes." If you switch your thermostat to "FAN ON" with "COOL OFF" does the blower still stop for a few minutes every once in a while even though the A/C compressor is not running? If so, then you have a blower problem. ...


1

The red wire that is currently on the C terminal, runs out to the coil on the contactor in your condensing unit (A/C). You'll notice the white wire from the same cable is on the Y terminal, which connects to the other coil terminal on the contactor. Technically you shouldn't put two wires under a single screw terminal, but it's done quite a bit with HVAC ...


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I will give you an off-label hypothetical answer for your hypothetical question TPE. Do with it what you will. Many medium efficiency systems have the evaporator coil placed downstream in the airflow after the gas furnace heat exchanger to insure that condensation from the AC does not form on the furnace heat exchanger, rusting it out. If you have a ...


1

Although I commented above that it would be good to hire a qualified person, there are a few things a skilled DIY'er could do in this case. Make sure the main disconnect is off before doing anything. The most common causes for high head pressure are (a) dirty evaporator coils and (b) a poorly functioning condenser fan. From the photo it looks like that ...


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That could be either a high, or low pressure switch. Without more information on the unit, its hard to say for sure which. A high pressure switch usually opens if the coils are dirty or fan is dead. Basically not enough air flowing through the system, so not enough heat is removed. Low pressure switches will open if the refrigerant level is low. Check ...


1

I am not a HVAC tech but I do believe that is a high pressure switch that is tripping and there could be a couple of things going on with your unit. It is tripping to protect the compressor and fan from faulting. I would suggest calling a HVAC company to come take a look.


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Low R22 pressure (presumably suction pressure) combined with correct superheat typically means that there is too much compressor capacity for the airflow. This can happen when there is a clogged air filter or weak blower motor, or less often an undersized interior fan coil mismatched with a larger capacity condenser. I have seen systems where, ...


1

There are two main contributing factors at play here. First and most importantly, the evaporator is getting too cold. The other problem is only a problem, because the first problem is a problem. And that is, that the humidity in the basement may be too high. What's happening, is that the box that contains the evaporator is getting too cold. Once it cools ...


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A device like this air purifier can reduce the amount of dust that accumulates in a room, at least according to its product sheet and many of the customer reviews. It would seem it can't completely eliminate dust, only reduce it (or perhaps more accurately, relocate it). Air Purifier on Wikipedia also talks about different types of purifiers and their ...


2

There is an optional add-on part for HVAC systems called an economizer. An HVAC economizer is a dampered vent designed to save energy and give the cooling system a break. Sensors within the economizer compare the outdoor temperature and humidity with that inside the building. –Google When you call for cooling, the unit decides if it needs to run the AC ...


2

The term you're looking for is "whole-house fan". It's a big fan that can blow outside air, inside. I have one in my house and they work very well for your use case. Be warned that whole-house fans are notoriously difficult to insulate and air-seal. When winter rolls around, the last thing you want is a huge hole in the side of your house through which ...


2

You're looking for the V in HVAC (Ventilation). There are indeed systems that will pull in outdoor air, filter it, and supply it through the home. These systems would likely be in addition to any heating or cooling equipment, not as a part of them. To be specific, you're looking for a balanced ventilation system. Talk to your local HVAC company, they ...


0

A little bit of duct seal, will plug that hole right up. Grab a bit off the brick, and roll it into a snake (like you used to do with play-doh). Wrap it around the pipe, while pushing it into the hole.


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First off, if you're using a cheap flexible vinyl tube like this. You're probably losing most of your cool air, before it even reaches your house. Instead, you'll want to use an insulated duct. I'd recommend a rigid duct, but flexible duct is probably acceptable for this application. Something like this flexible insulated duct is probably acceptable. ...


2

For a hermetic compressor (what you most likely have in a unit of that size and vintage) -- the answer you seek is right on the compressor's nameplate, marked as "LRA", "Locked-Rotor Amps", under a "Locked Rotor" field, or in a similar fashion, as per NEC 440.4(A): The locked-rotor current of each single-phase motor-compressor having a rated-load ...


1

While this is rigid, it is better for connecting flex pipe.


2

Adding a return and/or additional supplies may help. Adding a supply and a return would almost certainly help -- it might be overkill, but you could always close them off if needed. The important point, however, is that this is a question of balance relative to other rooms. Knowing the best solution requires understanding the layout of your home and the ...


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Each time they dim there is an audible pause in the operation of the unit. Very short pauses, like of about a second. Sounds like a chattering contactor. Causes may be from scorching on the contacts or from too low a voltage to pull it in properly. Replace the batteries in your thermostat. Inspect all of the contactors in the condenser, if you are ...


3

The only technical reason that this isn't possible is that the coil needs a specific amount of air to flow through it when it's cooling. So to select the correct coil, you need to know the CFM of the air moving through the air handler. Not impossible to figure out or measure, but might not be easy for an air handler as old as yours. However, if I was a ...


0

That look like a 1/3 hp motor, which is a 120 volt motor you got 6 wires on that motor three is for fan speed and they are black for high, blue for med.and red for low. you have a capacitor on that motor three wires are on that capacitor a brown, on one side and a yellow and white on the other side, the white wire is one side of power choose the wire speed ...


1

It sounds like the water is running along the underside of the pipe back to the house, instead of free-falling off the end. If that's the case, you could just slip an elbow on to the end and point it down. The water won't be able to travel up the elbow to the wall.


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There should be a schematic printed on a sticker on the motor. Without knowing the make and model, or looking at the diagram. I'm guessing based on other motors. One common "standard" is as follows: White = grounded (neutral) (clockwise). Black = High speed. Blue = Medium speed (medium low). Red = Low speed. Brown = Run capacitor. Brown w/ white = Run ...


1

Based on the International Residential code (which may or may not apply where you live), this installation is not compliant. Things that I see that need to be corrected include (but may not be limited to): The vent must be held at least one inch away from wood and other combustibles. The total rise of the vent must be at least five feet, to insure proper ...


3

A few theories as to what might be going on: You have bad ductwork with few returns. If that's the case, you're just not moving enough air to dehumidify every room. Your AC unit is oversized. And oversized AC unit will cool the air very fast and then shut off. The problem with that is if the AC unit is only running for short periods, it's not given enough ...


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It fires up fine and then cycles through the fan working and not working [while the compressor is still on]. If it's NOT the capacitor, then the fan motor is kicking out on over heat via its integral thermal overload. You need a new fan motor (save the blades from the old one). I don't bother with testing capacitors. Both fan and cap get swapped out ...


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Those are acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) pipes, and can indeed be replaced and/or rerouted. When assembling the plumbing, you'll want to use fittings and cements designed for use with ABS pipe. You'll also have to refer to the manufacturer's installation instructions for proper length and limitations on the number of bends. For reference, the pipe ...


2

OK. These have nothing to do with and no connection to the AC compressor, which makes a lot more sense than the original question with no outside picture. Flex pipe is probably not an option - if it IS an option it needs to be a type specifically approved by the furnace manufacturer. While direct vent exhaust is relatively cool, so it can be run in ...


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Ok, I had got this fixed a little bit ago and realized I have not got back here to update. This motor requires a Separate 10 MFD Capacitor to be installed on the Brown and Brown/White wires. Brown to one side of the Separate Capacitor and the Brown/White to the other side. I was told that the Brown and Brown/White wires are used for the motor startup. It ...


0

If the transformer does not have one leg grounded, then you could measure 24 volts at the contactor when the thermostat is not calling for cool. This is because you're measuring between one leg of the transformer (24 volts), and a floating wire (0 volts). When the thermostat calls for cool, you'll still measure 24 volts if the leads are not attached to ...


4

If the camp has internet access, you may want to look into a WIFI-controlled thermostat. Most allow you to remotely monitor and control the temperature through a mobile phone app or with a laptop web interface. This will allow you to have the most versatile control over your temperature settings. The only other piece of equipment you'll need to make this ...


2

Depending on your location, it would likely be more economical to open the house up and circulate air with fans to bring down the trapped heat and then turn on the AC. It won't be cool when you arrive, but it will become tolerable very quickly. If air conditioning is required, and you have some sort of network connectivity, I'd look into home automation. ...


1

There's a couple questions that have to be answered, before you'll know for sure if there's a problem or not. First is if there's any combustion appliances in the closet (e.g. gas furnace)? If there are, they'll need to draw combustion air from somewhere. Which leads to the second question, is there a duct to draw combustion air from the outside into the ...


1

If you want anything close to an accurate answer. You're going to have to tell us a bit more about the wiring between the thermostat and the furnace, or include some photos of the wiring. And include make, and model numbers for all the equipment involved. Most furnaces manage the blower themselves during a heat call, i.e. the thermostat simply energizes ...


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Page 28 of the installation manual (PDF) says this: Filters All G40UH(X) filters are installed external to the unit. Filters should be inspected monthly. Clean or replace the filters when necessary to ensure proper furnace operation. Replacement filters must be rated for high velocity airflow. Table 1 lists recommended filter sizes.



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