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11

Sounds like a classic compromised leg of your main service. This problem could be anywhere from the connections at the utility transformer on the pole, to the connection taps on the side of the house, to the meter pan, to the main breaker. IMO this is NOT something for a DIY to troubleshoot since you would need to be testing live unfused wires in places ...


8

You need a duct crimper like this to reduce the diameter of the end of one piece of duct: Run the tool around the end of the duct so that you have multiple parallel crimps. That piece should slide right into the uncrimped piece, giving you a secure connection to tape. If you don't want to spring for a dedicated tool, I've seen where people use ...


6

You may be able to rig up something whether the compressor-side air intake and exhaust are piped outside, but the efficiency will be low and you may risk burning out the compressor by working it too hard. If you want something you can install in a small opening, you might consider wheeled portable AC units which come with a flexible duct. If you're still ...


5

I am a Local HVAC Tech in the Toronto area. As stated, this exhaust is not installed according to local codes and the manufacturers installation instructions. There is no surprise that you are getting freezing condensation on the brick of the house. The reason for having the vent terminate straight out and away from the building is to avoid this. The facing ...


5

The thermopile in your fireplace puts out millivolts, nothing near the 120V the light switch was designed for. It's probably just a matter of finding a switch with a low enough on resistance. A generic low voltage switch from a electronics store, or ripped out of a toy, would probably do it (for example a 12V SPST). Really here the smaller the better, but ...


5

You're looking for a specification called the operating temperature range of the thermostat or router or both. This is the temperature range within which the manufacturer states that the device will function correctly. For consumer electronics like these, it's typically from 0°C (32°F) up to about 60°C (140°F) to 70°C (158°F). So if ...


5

You'll want to check with your local government. The sale of a house often requires some things to be brought up to current code. What things are required, depends on the local government. For example. In my area, sump pumps are required. If you're selling a house without a sump, you'll have to install one before you can close. A nearby area requires ...


4

The exhaust pipe discharge is too close to the house. It should extend 8 to 12 inches from the wall if using tee on vent end. The exhaust might have been placed in its odd position because of a gas regulator vent. I see the pipe exits near the gas service. From a survey of high efficiency furnace installation manuals, and my own experience installing my ...


4

Judging by this manual, you have one of these: You described it as terminal 4 but the diagram just shows two terminals labelled "T", but that is fine: I found a manual for an EnviraCom device which shows terminals 2 and 3 are 24vac power: This means we have the right connections, and according to the R7184 manual: EnviraCOM™ Current Available: ...


4

You should contact an Electrician or HVAC technician. There seems to be a short-circuit somewhere in the circuit supplying the heating unit. DO NOT reset the breaker again until the problem is fixed. The reason I suspect a short-circuit, is because the breakers are reacting so quickly. If this was an overcurrent situation, the main breaker would likely ...


4

This conference presentation (PDF) seems to lay out the process fairly well. It also mentions a few resources that go into more detailed calculations and considerations. The Sheet Metal and Air Conditioning Contractors’ National Association has an overview guide available here (PDF) for improving efficiency. They also have entire standards available for ...


4

You can seal the hole with duct seal. It is a putty-like substance, which can fill the hole around the pipes. Duct seal does not harden, so it is easy to remove in the future. You may have to cut the pipe insulation just short of the hole so you get a good seal. It may be a good time to replace that whole section of insulation while you're working in the ...


4

I'm not a HVAC expert but a 5 ton unit sounds pretty large for a 3000sqft house. You can probably approach this in one of two ways. One is probably what the previous owner did and just throw more cooling capacity at the problem (two units, larger units, etc.). Alternatively, you can start looking at ways to get more out of your existing unit. Some things ...


4

Depends on location but 50-55 degrees Fahrenheit is fairly standard.


3

I don't think this is entirely true anymore. Most HVAC suppliers in my area allow "consumers" to buy from them. There is usually a song and dance to be done. For instance anyone can sign up on several large retailers that sell lots of stuff to HVAC techs, electricians, plumbers and so on. We know the big names. What you do is register yourself as a ...


3

Yes. I was building a new home in Baytown Texas (completed in 2006) and searched far and wide for thermostat controlled dampers - was told by many HVAC companies that "they" remove them weekly - this isn't true. I found one installer in Houston that would do the system the way I suggested - he listened and so did I. We compromised on 2 units with 3 ...


3

All furnace control boards will control the additional features that they come with (such as variable speed, or multi-stage heating and cooling) The terminals on the thermostat will correspond with the furnace control board terminals. The furnace may have more connections than the thermostat, but most are not used or required. For example with ...


3

NEVER JUMP A LIMIT SWITCH TO ALLOW A GAS APPLIANCE TO RUN. THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT SAFETY IN THE SYSTEM AND IS REQUIRED FOR PROPER AND SAFE OPERATION OF THE UNIT. Limit switches may only be jumped by technicians to test and rule out certain components and are not to be left bypassed. Your furnace seems to be going off on High limit. When the fan ...


3

If you want to go completely amateur, you could just stuff it all in there. However, that's going to result in a significant decrease in airflow and will result in a lot of strain on your air handler's blower motor. The cross-sectional area of at 16" ID duct is about 200 square inches. That's the number you need to match or exceed to maintain the same ...


3

I had the same problem, tried everything, replaced the switch and the thermopile, no avail. Then finally I removed the pilot light assembly, the top just pops off and using a straw blew a bunch of dust out of it. The result was a better flame on the thermopile which allowed the valve to open, try that.


3

Red, here's a diagram that shows airflow in a furnace:


3

These vents are for a high efficiency furnace. One brings in fresh air for combustion, the other exhausts air after combustion. It's separate from the air you breath in your home, hence the high efficiency part. The biggest concerns with these are venting exhaust too close to a window, and having the exhaust sucked back into the intake, but this shouldn't be ...


3

The suction line (the larger pipe) should never be iced up during normal operation. By the time the refrigerant gets to the end of the evaporator coil, it should be completely boiled off (in a gas state). The bottom few coils may frost up, but the top ones should only be sweating at most. If the suction line; or more than the bottom third of the coil, ...


3

First, be wary of the two big capacitors. One is the large "beer-can"-shaped component against the inside wall of the enclosure, and the other is the smaller, silver oval-shaped can right next to it. These can hold electrical charge, and could hurt you. You'll want make sure that they're discharged. Once you unplug the unit, wait a few minutes for the ...


3

Is there a small switch somewhere n the thermostat that says something like "fan" and has positions for "auto" and "on"? Is it in the "On" position? If what you mean is that the fan keeps blowing when the thermostat is not calling for cooling (but the air at that point is not being cooled) that could be it. Otherwise, look for a short circuit in the ...


3

What you’re describing sounds like a combination of negative pressure in the compartment that the drain pan connected to and an incorrectly sized p-trap on the condensate drain. The depth of the t-prap has to be greater than the negative pressure in inches of water column of the compartment where the drain is connected to. A t-prap with insufficient depth, ...


3

The capacitor needs replacement. While it is possible there is a circuitry problem causing the capacitor to overheat (and thus fail like this), it is also possible it was simply time for this electrolytic capacitor to fail while nothing else is wrong. See this photo for a similar failure mode.


3

This is definitely an issue with one of the legs of your main service. This pops up most commonly when the temperatures outside start to change and cause the wires to contract or expand. The power coming in to your house is normally fed by two separate wires, if one of these has become loose, you will see issues on about half the circuits in the house.


2

Yes. One example is the Honeywell CT50K1028/E which is your basic low voltage thermostat it goes down to 35 F. I'm pretty sure it will work for your application. No hacking or electronics work reqired. There are others. Do a search for " Garage thermostat"


2

For the record, I tried it out myself. I installed the Cool-N-Save system on a 4-ton A/C unit that was scheduled to be replaced in three months. After that three month period in the middle of the summer, the positive effects of the system were negligible at best, and probably detrimental. There were no detectible savings in cooling costs nor increase in ...



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