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20

I would really want to know why the switch failed twice, and running the unit without all safety devices seems like a bad plan. I'd find a new tech (don't use the other guy again) to diagnose the actual problem and install a new switch correctly. The tech may have never seen a thermal cut-off switch do anything and decided it wasn't needed, but that's not ...


10

In theory this is what HVAC professionals are supposed to do. In practice, most of them rely on antiquated rules of thumb to size equipment and use existing ductwork, even if it has major problems. A certified energy rater is who you're looking for and who will be able to definitively tell you what you need to know, but you can learn a lot yourself to be a ...


6

It does sound like the biggest opponent the AC is facing is the large picture window. I'm guessing it's just not a well insulated and/or not high-e glass and just letting too much heat in. For starters, close the internal blinds. If that isn't enough, consider some exterior blinds. These aren't terribly expensive and shouldn't be something that the landlord ...


6

NO The switch is an extremely important safety feature. If you have an oil-fired boiler, it can explode with a tremendous force, enough to destroy your entire house and kill everyone inside. https://www.google.com/search?q=boiler+explosion&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8#q=boiler+explosion&safe=off&tbm=vid If you have an oil-fired air heater (no water to ...


5

Long story short... The guy that installed this thing didn't follow the manufacturer's installation instructions, and did some UGLY plumbing. I would not allow him back in my home. Hire a new contractor, and pay them to fix this guys mistakes.


5

Dehumidifiers work a bit different than A/C units. While A/C units do remove moisture, as a side effect. They also cool the air moving through them, by moving heat away. Dehumidifiers remove the moisture and cool the air, but then they heat the air back up. If you wanted your A/C system to function as a dehumidifier, you'd have to bring back the heat that ...


5

It is generally not worth the time and money to try to capture the lost heat through the exhaust system of the vast majority of tankless/on-demand water heaters. The heaters are now so efficient that they can vent the exhaust through plastic (PVC) pipe. Since these heaters also only operate when there is a call for hot water, they do not run very often. ...


4

If the camp has internet access, you may want to look into a WIFI-controlled thermostat. Most allow you to remotely monitor and control the temperature through a mobile phone app or with a laptop web interface. This will allow you to have the most versatile control over your temperature settings. The only other piece of equipment you'll need to make this ...


4

Sure -- or at least, there's nothing about having round ducts in the attic that would make A/C installation more difficult. In fact, because cold air is more dense than warm air, ceiling vents are usually considered better for cooling. The cool air flows down from the ceiling, helping ensure your rooms are evenly cooled. That's why many houses in warm ...


4

Sounds like a string of bad luck. While an electrical spike/surge will cause problems and failures in the controllers and motors, the freon exists in an enclosed system and therefore this will not cause a leak. The compressor is a hermetically sealed unit, so there are no shaft seals that will cause freon loss. The refrigerator is the most likely to have ...


4

According to Trane installation instructions, the technician is correct. They do require 3' of clear space in front of the control box. As for why the technician chose this orientation, I can only speculate. It looks to me like the access panel is on the corner of the unit, which would mean there has to be 3' clear space at the corner. Obviously the ...


3

A/C Refrigerant Line Set Those are the refrigerant lines (what I would call Freon lines) that feed the condenser (the thing outside; half of a split system. The other half is the coil inside your furnace's plenum chamber). The big one (cold) is the suction line. The small one is the liquid line (hot; no need for insulation). Both of these lines run all ...


3

There is some additional easy trouble-shooting you can do yourself. Check temperature at the vents: Get a little thermometer. Put it right on or just inside one of the air vents so that it's getting the full effect of the air temp coming out of the vents. The air should be about 20 degrees cooler than ambient in your house. So, if your house is 75, the air ...


3

If you have a set of gauges, you should connect them at the condensing unit and measure the pressures in the refrigerant lines. If you don't have a set of gauges, you should contact somebody who does. Troubleshooting and repairing A/C units requires special tools, without them you can only speculate as to what the problem is. If I had to speculate, I'd ...


3

Unless you are an abnormally equipped layman, no. Even then, there may be a legal requirement (depending where you are) for this to be done by a licensed A/C service person, as regulations around refrigerants have become much more stringent over the years, trying to limit uncontrolled releases to atmosphere.


3

Disconnects are required when the equipment is too far from, or not within sight of the breaker (or branch circuit disconnect) (commonly known as "Serviceman disconnects" or "Serviceman switches"). This is required so that while you're working on the equipment, it's less likely somebody will accidentally energize the equipment (flip the breaker on). ...


3

The apartment is gaining more heat throughout the day than the AC is able to remove. Unfortunately, as a renter, there isn't much you can do about this. The real solution is to improve the building's insulation, plant shade trees, replace old windows with Low-E ones, add radiant barriers, etc. But all of those options would lie with the landlord, not you, ...


3

In addition to DA01's excellent answer, here are a few more suggestions that may give you enough minor improvements to prevent having to upgrade your A/C system. Be sure that the output vents in all rooms are all the way open, and open the interior doors of every room with an output vent (though opening doors may be less important if each room has its own ...


3

A few theories as to what might be going on: You have bad ductwork with few returns. If that's the case, you're just not moving enough air to dehumidify every room. Your AC unit is oversized. And oversized AC unit will cool the air very fast and then shut off. The problem with that is if the AC unit is only running for short periods, it's not given enough ...


3

The only technical reason that this isn't possible is that the coil needs a specific amount of air to flow through it when it's cooling. So to select the correct coil, you need to know the CFM of the air moving through the air handler. Not impossible to figure out or measure, but might not be easy for an air handler as old as yours. However, if I was a ...


3

The term you're looking for is "whole-house fan". It's a big fan that can blow outside air, inside. I have one in my house and they work very well for your use case. Be warned that whole-house fans are notoriously difficult to insulate and air-seal. When winter rolls around, the last thing you want is a huge hole in the side of your house through which ...


3

First step is to convert those prices into something you can compare on equal footing. $0.063042/kWh = $17.50/GJ, for oil, $2/gal = $13.7/GJ So, superficially, oil is cheaper than electricity for the same amount of energy. However, there are a couple of other things to consider. Oil combustion is only about 75 - 90% efficient at heating because you have ...


3

The condition you describe is usually an indication that the compressor is unable to provide sufficient start torque to turn without drawing excessive amperage. This is frequently due to a weak run capacitor on the compressor. Less frequently this can be caused by a contactor in poor condition or an old compressor where the bearings have worn to the point ...


3

Here are some potential downsides, besides cost (which is a big one): Can't have central air conditioning. How to heat the basement? I assume you plan on insulating under the PEX tubing to make most of the heat go through the floor. This makes it tough to heat the basement, if that's something you want. Will the warm floors be noticable? For well-insulated ...


3

If you have disconnected all external wires to the control board with only internal wires to the unit connected and the fuse still burns, that very likely indicates a failure of the board. With the fuse burning quickly, that often means a component in the power supply side of the board has catastrophically failed. To verify this, you could disconnect all ...


3

Thermostats utilize 24VAC, not DC. If you measure an AC voltage with a DC meter, it will show 0. I just noticed that ThreePhaseEel posted this answer 16 hours ago as a comment. He/she should get credit for the answer!


3

assumptions from what's in your photo: 1) it looks like the right side of the opening is your access, and the ducts are rigidly installed. 2) the crawlspace looks unheated, as the ducts seem to be insulated, and the fact that you mention radon must mean you have an actively vented (fan) crawlspace to evacuate any radon gas (along with a radon alarm in ...


3

A furnace only has a drain if it's a high efficiency condensing unit, or it contains an A/C evaporator coil. If it's an older non-high efficiency unit, and there's no integrated air conditioning. Then it probably won't have any type of drain.


3

I had my own "green" start up company that I sold off 10 years ago- and I use the same guys to install most new systems I put in. Really for most cases all the data will come back to is the average temperature that a home is kept (given that insulation and other thermal constraints are constant). Really the most effective thing to do is to always have ...


3

The biggest culprit is likely environmental: your dry Colorado mountain air and low humidity. We have the same problem south of you in New Mexico. Raising your interior humidity will help a lot. There are several approaches, ranging from using a humidifier constantly (cheap up front, expensive to run over time) to sealing your house up airtight and using an ...



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