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A/C Refrigerant Line Set Those are the refrigerant lines (what I would call Freon lines) that feed the condenser (the thing outside; half of a split system. The other half is the coil inside your furnace's plenum chamber). The big one (cold) is the suction line. The small one is the liquid line (hot; no need for insulation). Both of these lines run all ...


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There is some additional easy trouble-shooting you can do yourself. Check temperature at the vents: Get a little thermometer. Put it right on or just inside one of the air vents so that it's getting the full effect of the air temp coming out of the vents. The air should be about 20 degrees cooler than ambient in your house. So, if your house is 75, the air ...


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If you have a set of gauges, you should connect them at the condensing unit and measure the pressures in the refrigerant lines. If you don't have a set of gauges, you should contact somebody who does. Troubleshooting and repairing A/C units requires special tools, without them you can only speculate as to what the problem is. If I had to speculate, I'd ...


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Won't work. The insulation is sufficient to reduce the heat loss from your apartment at 25c to the snow or ice at -15c to a reasonably low value. Misters or evaporative coolers only reduce the temperature by a few degrees C, and most of the heat absorbed would come from the surrounding air, not your house. I'd suggest awnings over the windows, ...


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The HVAC guy has a hammer, and your problem looks like a nail. More ducts! Bigger equipment! Wrong. Your problem is easy to diagnose: this room's ceiling is terribly under-insulated. When people convert attics into rooms, they almost always (like 99% of the time) insulate the ceiling incorrectly and insufficiently. You need a lot more insulation; the lack of ...


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The lack of insulation on the ducts in the floor is of no concern as the floor is in the conditioned space (ie, the area around the ducts is supposed to be cooled.) If the ducts were in the attic that would be a BIG deal. The very low insulation in the attic seems like both a contributing problem, and the most easily solved one. Either rent a blower and buy ...


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If you're willing to blur the line between homeowner and HVAC tech, sure. If this is a split system, hooking up the linesets, purging the lines with compressed nitrogen, pumping it down, measuring the vacuum, adjusting the charge, and ensuring that the system is leak-free are all likely to be the most challenging parts. These tasks require specialized tools ...


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See: http://homerepair.about.com/od/heatingcoolingrepair/ss/wind_ac_troubl.htm or Try searching the internet for "repair air conditioner" or "appliance repair," or "window air conditioner repair." If the compressor starts, but then shuts off, it may be overheating, caused by a blocked tube. A thermal overload device cuts off the electricity to the motor. ...


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Depends partly on the device. Some electric ranges/cooktops/driers have electronic controls which run on 120V even though they're controlling 240V; they get that 120V by connecting between one leg of the 240V supply and neutral. In that case, obviously, without neutral those controls don't run.


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That's correct. If you're installing a 240 volt load, there's no need for the grounded (neutral) conductor. As you suggest, you will need a grounding conductor though.


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Condensing furnaces are designed to be installed ONLY IN A CONDITIONED SPACE. Whoever installed one in an attic might need to get qualified to do heating work. Get the specific manual for the unit and see if there was something special that was supposed to be done to allow for that unit to be installed where it was subject to freezing temps. Again, the ...


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I have a 240v 30amp welder wired in the way you described. Hot, Hot, Ground. Be sure to use the correct 2 pole breaker.


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As it turns out, the box in the last picture is a safety measure which cuts the electricity when the panel door is removed. Turns out, there were a couple of screws on the outside that secure this box that were missing. Why? I did it (DOH!). I removed them a few days back when trying to open this panel door so that I can do the "G wire to C wire" switch for ...


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Get rid of the external transformer, and pull a proper C wire. It's not working because you have one side of the contactor coil connected to one transformer, and the other side connected to another transformer. There's not a complete circuit. When the thermostat is calling for cool, your circuit looks like this If you follow the circuit, you can see ...


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It could be a variety of things, but there's no way to be sure without troubleshooting the system. Thermostat It could be that the thermostat isn't signalling the A/C unit to start. Things to check The indoor blower comes on The outdoor unit turns on There's voltage on the A/C signal wire from the thermostat Control board The control board in the ...


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This is one possibility, from my distant past... In a house with hot-water heating that I lived in as a teen, the boiler and hot-water heating were controlled in a different way: Whenever the water in the boiler dropped below a certain temperature, the burner came on and heated the water in the boiler jacket. This would go on as long as the system was ...



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