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What you’re describing sounds like a combination of negative pressure in the compartment that the drain pan connected to and an incorrectly sized p-trap on the condensate drain. The depth of the t-prap has to be greater than the negative pressure in inches of water column of the compartment where the drain is connected to. A t-prap with insufficient depth, ...


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For the record, I tried it out myself. I installed the Cool-N-Save system on a 4-ton A/C unit that was scheduled to be replaced in three months. After that three month period in the middle of the summer, the positive effects of the system were negligible at best, and probably detrimental. There were no detectible savings in cooling costs nor increase in ...


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If liquid refrigerant gets in the compressor, it can indeed cause damage. The compressor is designed to compress gas, trying to compress liquid can burn out the motor. Let the system defrost. Fix the filter. Then turn it back on. If the system still isn't cooling, you'll have to troubleshoot it yourself, or contact a professional to do it. Make sure you ...


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Since you haven't supplied much detail, I'll have to use nonspecific examples based on typical installation methods. Furnace and Condensing unit If you have a setup where you have a furnace, and an outdoor condensing unit. The wiring will be similar to this (Note: This is a basic overview, not actual wiring). Basically, the R wire provides power to the ...


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Inadequate refrigerant causes the evaporator (and sometimes the condensor) to form ice or frost on the outside. The usual fix is to have a HVAC tech repair the refrigerant leaks and recharge the system. You can save some of the service call cost by looking for the leaks and pointing them out. Soapy water works well applied with a spray bottle or small ...



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