Hot answers tagged

11

I don't know of any specific schedule, but I can recommend several "best practices": Buy braided hoses. These are the metal hoses with an inner plastic tubing. They are NOT guaranteed not to fail, but their failure is much less likely. Their most vulnerable failure point would be at the connection to the coupling. Inspect the hoses annually. Do not ...


8

It's possible to get the hose screwed on by hand tightly enough that it won't leak if your grip is strong enough; I think the strength required is within the normal range for an adult (mine is relatively strong though, so your mileage may vary). But before you get a wrench, there's a couple of things you should check: make sure the threads on the faucet ...


8

It's called "a very short hose". :) You can make your own with parts commonly available at hardware and big-box stores. Alternatively, install a simple valve, an elbow, or a backflow preventer: Be aware that extending a plastic connection with a rigid part adds torque stress to that connection. Use caution to not lever on it.


7

I would expect more water to flow unless you have extremely low water pressure. You have a 3/4" line and all the water pressure of either a municipal water system or a water pump. Splitting that into two lines will not likely double the flow rate as there is a pressure drop, but it should increase the total flow rate considerably. I would expect it to almost ...


7

There are garden hose splice devices that you can purchase at home centers and big box stores that can be used to fix these. You may lose a short bit of total length as you cut off the damaged part to accomodate the splicer. If you need more added length you could use two of these splicers to stitch in a new length of hose. They also sell devices that ...


6

Durability - I have often seen the stainless/chrome plated hose breaking up after a few years... this is where the hose splits along the seam of the hose... This will not happen with the braided hose due to the fact that you have a netted sheath. Also. the braided pattern is more flexible than its counterpart. Cost - This hose is substantially cheaper ...


6

Instead of a threaded connector go for a quick disconnect. The connectors will screw on the existing threads and you can then connect by pushing in and disconnect bu pulling the tab.


5

I have had good luck getting these fittings to release with an open end wrench. Slide a wrench the same size as the outside diameter of the tubing over the tubing. Then use it to push in the release collar. It works well in tight areas or where the fittings are close together. If you have to replace any tubing a clean cut is required to get a good seal.


5

I suspect you're seeing the result of poorly-translated product descriptions from China and elsewhere. For example: Advantages: Withdrawing life greatly improved. Should not damage the leaking. The inner tube using the nylon braided package EPDM more resistant wound. Honory99 1.5m Pull-type Copper Core Explosion-proof Shower Hose This product would ...


4

It's a quick-connect t-fitting, not a valve. You should be able to push down on the little lip at each connection and pull the hose loose. Or you can just cut each hose and replace it with a new fitting. You just push the hose in until it clicks and you're done.


4

If I understand your question and ascii art, what you're looking for is called a bulkhead fitting. There are a ton of different types: made from different materials, inside thread, outside thread, barbed, one-sided, two-sided, and all different sizes. I'm sure you can find one that is suitable for your application. The big box stores should at least have ...


4

In addition to what Greebo said, they also make hoses with the shutoff built into the hose, but the reviews on these are pretty bad and won't stop a small leak.


4

Can you turn off the water supply to the hose? Or is the tap at the "business" end of the hose? If it's the former then you can turn off the supply to the hose and leave the tap at the end of the hose open. This means that if there is any water left in the hose it will a) drain away and b) (more importantly) be able to expand safely along the length of the ...


4

If the leak is around the threads themselves (you can tell vs gasket based on where water comes out), teflon tape (sometimes called plumber's tape) exists for this. It's readily available at hardware and home improvement stores, and very inexpensive. Just wrap it around the faucet threads a few time and screw the hose on and it will make a good seal. It'...


4

Garden hose gasket, do you have one? They like to fall out and get lost, and without one it can become nearly impossible to tighten the connection up hard enough to prevent leakage.


4

Since you already have to dig it up to fix it, don't bother trying to repair the crack. Cut out and replace the damaged section of pipe. Use a coupling suitable for the type of pipe you are working with and that is rated for burial.


4

When discharging directly into a waste system without a standpipe, the connections must be "tight", as with a hose clamp to an appropriately sized tube connector, as shown in the manufacturer's instructions. The standpipe method is better (in my opinion) when connecting to existing waste systems with unknown capacity, because the standpipe can be sized to ...


3

I would start by cleaning up the corrosion and debris. If possible remove the hose/boot and clean any debris from the inside sealing surface. Inspect the hose for any cracks or holes. Looking at the photo the bottom clamp appears to be installed correctly. The upper hose appears to be installed too low. The clamp is squeezing the hose but not the pipe. The ...


3

It is proper to put a hose clamp on a connection like that as often the barbs aren't sufficient especially after it's come off a few times. If you're worried about damaging the fitting from the furnace just add another fitting after it and secure it the the furnace or floor, etc. Then your standalone fitting will be the one that gets damaged if somebody ...


3

You are correct in the fact that water is always present in the hose. When you turn on the faucet water gets sent through a diverter valve, this valve splits the flow of water between the faucet and the hose. It detects changes in pressure and adapts the flow accordingly. If water is not flowing through your hose and it does not go back to the faucet then ...


3

It is a "push-to-connect" fitting. You disconnect by pushing the tube, pushing the gray ring, then (while still pushing the gray ring) pulling the tube:


3

I'm going to assume that there's not a trap inside the wall, but if I'm wrong please correct me. You're going to want to build a standpipe. Start by installing a P-trap into that pipe in the wall. It's hard to tell from the picture what type of pipe it is, but you'll want to use something compatible to make the connection between pipe and trap. From the ...


3

Old hoses can of course provide the needed functionality. It is however highly discouraged to re-use them. The reasoning has to do with the aging and set that a pair of hoses hanging behind washer get in the course of years. Almost all hose materials get less flexible over time and could even be subject to forming a crack as they are flexed during a re-...


2

In general, "cold enough to freeze water inside the hose". Eighth grade physics tells us that water expands when frozen. Consequently having standing water inside a sealed container is not going to be good for the container's health. The real problem is draining the hose rather than storing it. However, water being a fluid gets into all kinds of cracks, ...


2

Caulking is designed to keep water out of cracks. It remains relatively soft and pliable even after it sets up so that vibrations do not cause it to crack. One thing it does not have is great adhesion properties. If you've ever started peeling it you will know what I mean - it pulls off relatively easily. Because of this, I doubt it will hold up to water ...


2

In this case, a gasket in the hose is likely degraded. Replace the entire hose with a new one. For this particular fitting, PTFE (plumbing) tape should not be used, and perhaps could be causing the leaking if it is preventing the hose from seating properly.


2

You branch off from the copper tubing with a 1/4" compression tee. Cut out a small section of tubing for which the tee replaces. You must use a tubing cutter to do this, any other method will cause the tube to become oval. Install the short piece removed on the side outlet of the tee. Attach a 1/4" compression x 1/2" pipe thread adapter to the short section....


2

Actually, it sounds more like a siphon or vacuum breaker working fine. It's not leaking with pressure on. When you turn off the sillcock and release pressure on the hose, it moves the water in the hose away from the sillcock, creating a vacuum at the faucet, which causes the siphon breaker valve to open. Then the water rebounds a bit and some comes out. They ...


2

You would use a coupling tape and hose clamps. You use thin flex aluminum duct like shown in picture but I like to stick with the semi rigid flex duct. Zip ties can be used on thin stuff but not semi rigid.


2

Over tightening a plumbing fixture can be just as bad as under-tightening, as it can damage the threads and prevent a proper seal. In your case, you should try to fix this first by reconnecting the pipe with a cleaned fitting: Remove the hose. Remove the existing tape completely. Clean the threads on the hose and the fitting with a wire brush. Wrap new ...



Only top voted, non community-wiki answers of a minimum length are eligible