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You may want to consider balancing your radiators. This can remedy a situation where not all radiators are heating in your house. A summary of the process is included below, but feel free to Google around for more instructions / images. The only unusual tool you'll need is a thermometer. You can make do with any type of digital thermometer, but people also ...


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It looks that pressure is low, the highest point in the system must still have enough pressure to expel the water in it. That you can remove the bleed cylinder without making a mess is the biggest clue. Add more water into the system (usually from a tap near the boiler) and bleed the upstairs radiators.


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Maybe. It depends on your climate, comfort range, and behavior. You may be able to get away without supplemental heat sources if you can tolerate temperatures 10ºF or more above or below the setpoint and if you keep the bedroom doors open most of the time. Are you planning on installing an HRV or ERV? If so, that will help with mixing. Cooling can be more ...


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You have a leak, obviously. Water will travel along pipes, wires, framing, etc so it doesn't mecessarily have to be leaking right above where you see the water. It could be a hole in a pipe, bad fitting, etc. You're going to need to rip up your ceilings (usually easier than floor since it's just drywall versus a flooring material) to find out where it's ...


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In the UK, the term I'd associate is "bleeding the radiators", and there will be a little valve at the top of each radiator to release trapped air, something a little like: These are typically operated with a "bleed key" (the brass object resting on the fins of that radiator), or sometimes the valves are also slotted for use with a screwdriver - they ...


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Use the solid state to drive a relay (that actually switches the baseboard) that is rated for the amps.


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If you can find a suitable replacement part, surely you could replace a high limit switch yourself. However, if you don't know much about furnaces (or HVAC systems in general), you'll likely have a difficult go of it. If you're not experienced; and don't know anybody who is that could help you, it's best to contact a professional. A high limit switch is ...


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The high limit switch is dead. Contact a local HVAC contractor for a replacement. While you're at it, replace the air filter on the furnace. Dirty filters are the number one cause of premature high limit failure.


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As it turns out, the switch has actually seized, all that was required was the switch to be replaced at the cost of £8.00.


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Electric Resistive Heat is only 35% efficient. In terms of electrical usage. When the element is cold, it draws a lot of current (that which is recorded on the metering device) (aka surge current) As the large current draw continues, it heats the element until it becomes more resistive requiring less current. Once it has become more resistive, the current ...


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I think you're on the right track. I live in a city and my 80% efficient, 15 year old natural gas heating system is up and down. It costs so much to run I decided to exhaust all alternatives before paying for a system and continuing to pay outrageous amounts for natural gas. My house: 1925 bungalow 2000 square feet with no insulation in the plaster walls. ...


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The crimps are important; if this were my unit I'd install a ball valve leading to each zone so you can give different floor zones different amounts of heat for each area.


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This turned out to be much easier than I expected. The EIM that had been setup for A/C only had the R Rc Rh terminals connected by jumpers. I removed the jumper on the Rh terminal because the heating system had it's own 24V power. I replaced the wire that was coming from the old wired thermostat with a new one that I connected to the Rh terminal and W ...


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In that climate, the most energy efficient method is a heat pump. An added bonus is that it can air condition during hot times, something that is presumably a requirement for an office space or guest room in SoCal. Heat pumps come in all kinds of flavors, but those designed for and often used in commercial and residential space should be plenty quiet. ...


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Your A/C unit on the roof should only start running if it's heat pump, and it definitely shouldn't be running at the same time as the gas furnace. I'll take a guess that your thermostat is wired incorrectly, and it's running the air conditioner and furnace at the same time.



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