Hot answers tagged

21

Yes, reversing them would be a bad thing. The cold water should be entering the bottom of the tank, the hot output at the top: I'd insist that the plumber fix this. But if they won't, I'd suggest picking up a pipe cutter, some sharkbite connectors, and just fix it yourself. Shouldn't take more than a half hour to do so.


12

This is quite possibly an emergency. Call your gas utility company and have them come check it out immediately. Also, open some windows to draw fresh air into your home, if you have a gas or exhaust leak it can be a fire and suffocation hazard.


8

RTFM After reading the user manual for this heater, as per National Electrical Code. National Electrical Code 2011 ARTICLE 110 Requirements for Electrical Installations I. General 110.3 Examination, Identification, Installation, and Use of Equipment. (B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in ...


8

If your carbon monoxide alarm is going off, you need to assume that there's actually carbon monoxide in dangerous levels in that area. If the heater is electric it probably shouldn't be emitting CO but maybe there's a manufacturing defect that's causing the heating element or plastic to burn. CO is lethal and totally undetectable by people, so if the alarm ...


6

The outlet contacts may be too dirty to carry a heavy load. Or they may be loose. Or the wires to the outlet may be loose either at the outlet or the in the breaker/fuse panel. I would recommend not using this outlet for anything until the point of cause is determined and corrected.


6

A larger tank does not cost more energy. The only thing that costs energy is when the water cools - and that depends only on the surface area, not the amount of water in the tank. (Mathematically volume increases by the 3rd power, but surface area only by the 2nd power.) So to save energy add extra insulation around the tank. Reducing the amount of water in ...


5

The first thing to do is verify where the leak is occuring. It could be occuring higher up and just dripping from the fitting (though it is very likely that it is the fitting leaking). Dry the entire pipe off and then watch for water. Assuming it is the compression fitting, the first thing I'd try is tightening it by 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. As gregmac ...


5

I assume you are in the USA. The heater is probably a pure 240V load with no need for the neutral (white) wire. you should simply cap the white wire with a wire nut and tuck it back into the electrical box.


4

For starters, I'd suggest you shut down the heater, drain it completely, and replace both electrodes. The danger with a water heater this old is that in draining it and dislodging sediment within you could expose small leaks. At 16 years old, I hate to say it, but you'll probably find it more efficient just to replace it.


4

While the lower end hotair guns often only have one or two settings, the more expensive models offer variable increments (I've seen units that do 50 degrees and a commenter mentioned 10 degrees; each model will be different so review the specs). The temperature spec gives the output temperature. Start low and increase the temperature as needed to melt the ...


4

Since your question says hot water, not steam escaping from overflow, my first thought would be to check for a faulty high pressure relief valve. This is the cylinder with the little lift switch usually mounted atop the tank with the drain line attached.


4

Our old apartment had this. I asked the landlord why, and he simply stated that if it wasn't there, all the vertical space above the heater would be wasted. Now there's a shelf there. I found it handy to place hats and gloves there during the winter to dry them off faster.


4

The most important issue in a portable heater, even before the issue of heating is safety. Dangers involve tipping, brushing a hot surface, things falling into, in or on it. This risk is even more pronounced in a kitchen which is a busy place (unlike a quite reading room). People move about, often quickly and carry (and drop) things. While your particular ...


4

Bad thermocouple - it is supposed to sense the presence of a flame, and turn off the gas if it is on, but nothing is getting hot. Last one I replaced was less than $10 at home depot, it is held in with only a screw or two, and less than an hour of work, including the beer after fixing my friends water heater. Looks like this, they are pretty much ...


4

Check all the supply valves to ensure they are open. It is not uncommon for old valves (particularly gate valves) to break whilst operating, leaving you with a low or no-flow situation (sometimes called a "dropped wedge"). This would require you to replace the suspect valve. If you did a DIY install, were any of the valves particularly corroded or hard to ...


4

TL; DR: When the temperature is colder outside, your cold water is colder so you have to use more hot water for the same shower temperature. Facts: A shower head puts out 2.5 gallons per minute (GPM) (or close to it). To get the temperature you want, you have to mix hot and cold water. In the summer, the "cold" water temp is much warmer than it is in the ...


4

NO. If this electric heat circuit is on a 30A breaker then ALL the wiring on the circuit must be #10cu (or larger). Even if it feeds just one heater.


3

I really question the wisdom of switching just the lower heating element. Doing so is going to overwork the upper element. I assume you are trying to conserve electricity, but this tactic is not going to be a great benefit to you. The upper element is used as the "quick recovery" unit that gives the cooling water from the lower part of the tank a boost as ...


3

Are you sure the AC isn't actually a heat pump? A heat pump looks about the same as an AC, but in winter it runs in reverse to pump heat into, instead of out of, the house. Examine the markings on the outdoor unit and see if it's a heat pump. If so, this is normal.


3

In this case, it looks like you'll have to run a new 20A circuit. As per Article 110.3(B) of the National Electrical Code (NEC), and the manufacturers instructions. NEC 2008 110.3 Examination, Identification, Installation, and Use of Equipment. (B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with ...


3

You're asking the wrong question. The circuit breaker size is based on the wiring size, not on the application size. The purpose of the circuit breaker is to protect the wiring from fire. A better question would be "what size wiring do I need for an 18 amp load?" Then you can work out the circuit breaker, receptacle, etc. afterward, based on @HerrBag's ...


3

Low water Air lock or circulator not working is most common problems. What is the pressure of system ? Should be around 12 cold 20 hot. Add water to system if lower. You may have automatic feeder. Check for any air bleeder that can be open.


3

We ended up bleeding the radiators, upping the pressure, and replacing the thermocouple. After all of that, we discovered that flames had been shooting out of the front of the boiler and melted half of the valve, messing up the electronics for the pilot light. We ended up replacing the entire boiler since it was 35 years old anyway, but the reason for the ...


3

It is safe to assume you mean 500 watt and not 500 amp. Yes, you should run 12/2 cable from a double-pole 20A breaker to the thermostat and then from there to the heater. This is the easiest way to run this circuit. Be sure to re-mark the white wire to a "hot" color with tape or easier yet a permanent marker. Use a color like red, blue or black. Be sure ...


3

Probably not the answer you want to hear, but the manufacturer of your heater would most likely prohibit the alteration of air flow into and out of the unit. Doing so would void the industry safety certifications required for manufacturers, the warranty, and would probably not be safe. Additionally, all wall heaters have minimum clearance requirements for ...


3

Actually, this requires a system analysis to determine if it's a problem of the water heater, or a problem of your system needing a expansion tank. For instance, if your water supply is provided with a check valve or a pressure reducing valve/regulator on its input, a water heater full of cold water will cause expansion, and without an expansion tank or an ...


3

Get a different water heater with larger fittings.


3

The heater is leaking. Therefore, it does not hold water. Water heater electric heating elements die a short, nasty death if they are powered up in air, rather than in water. Gas water heaters will burn out the bottom if the flame comes on with no water in the heater. You should shut off the electricity or gas BEFORE you shut off the water, or very, very ...


3

Sorry, the ONLY way to do this properly is to get the heater on a properly sized 240V circuit. This can be a 15A or 20A depending on what is shared on the circuit and what the distance is (less than a 150' or so circuit run this is not an issue). If you don't want to do it right and find how the t-stat is wired you may be able to put an integral thermostat ...


3

It sounds to me like a restriction at the regulator, not the control valve. You mentioned that the previous owner had done some work on it, make sure that he/she did not replace the regulator with one that does not deliver the design flow/pressure. In this case, adequate flow/pressure depends on proper regulator back pressure setting (they are rated in ...



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