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19

Yes, reversing them would be a bad thing. The cold water should be entering the bottom of the tank, the hot output at the top: I'd insist that the plumber fix this. But if they won't, I'd suggest picking up a pipe cutter, some sharkbite connectors, and just fix it yourself. Shouldn't take more than a half hour to do so.


11

This is quite possibly an emergency. Call your gas utility company and have them come check it out immediately. Also, open some windows to draw fresh air into your home, if you have a gas or exhaust leak it can be a fire and suffocation hazard.


7

RTFM After reading the user manual for this heater, as per National Electrical Code. National Electrical Code 2011 ARTICLE 110 Requirements for Electrical Installations I. General 110.3 Examination, Identification, Installation, and Use of Equipment. (B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in ...


6

The outlet contacts may be too dirty to carry a heavy load. Or they may be loose. Or the wires to the outlet may be loose either at the outlet or the in the breaker/fuse panel. I would recommend not using this outlet for anything until the point of cause is determined and corrected.


6

If your carbon monoxide alarm is going off, you need to assume that there's actually carbon monoxide in dangerous levels in that area. If the heater is electric it probably shouldn't be emitting CO but maybe there's a manufacturing defect that's causing the heating element or plastic to burn. CO is lethal and totally undetectable by people, so if the alarm ...


5

The first thing to do is verify where the leak is occuring. It could be occuring higher up and just dripping from the fitting (though it is very likely that it is the fitting leaking). Dry the entire pipe off and then watch for water. Assuming it is the compression fitting, the first thing I'd try is tightening it by 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. As gregmac ...


5

A larger tank does not cost more energy. The only thing that costs energy is when the water cools - and that depends only on the surface area, not the amount of water in the tank. (Mathematically volume increases by the 3rd power, but surface area only by the 2nd power.) So to save energy add extra insulation around the tank. Reducing the amount of water in ...


4

While the lower end hotair guns often only have one or two settings, the more expensive models offer variable increments (I've seen units that do 50 degrees and a commenter mentioned 10 degrees; each model will be different so review the specs). The temperature spec gives the output temperature. Start low and increase the temperature as needed to melt the ...


4

Since your question says hot water, not steam escaping from overflow, my first thought would be to check for a faulty high pressure relief valve. This is the cylinder with the little lift switch usually mounted atop the tank with the drain line attached.


4

For starters, I'd suggest you shut down the heater, drain it completely, and replace both electrodes. The danger with a water heater this old is that in draining it and dislodging sediment within you could expose small leaks. At 16 years old, I hate to say it, but you'll probably find it more efficient just to replace it.


4

Our old apartment had this. I asked the landlord why, and he simply stated that if it wasn't there, all the vertical space above the heater would be wasted. Now there's a shelf there. I found it handy to place hats and gloves there during the winter to dry them off faster.


4

The most important issue in a portable heater, even before the issue of heating is safety. Dangers involve tipping, brushing a hot surface, things falling into, in or on it. This risk is even more pronounced in a kitchen which is a busy place (unlike a quite reading room). People move about, often quickly and carry (and drop) things. While your particular ...


3

In this case, it looks like you'll have to run a new 20A circuit. As per Article 110.3(B) of the National Electrical Code (NEC), and the manufacturers instructions. NEC 2008 110.3 Examination, Identification, Installation, and Use of Equipment. (B) Installation and Use. Listed or labeled equipment shall be installed and used in accordance with ...


3

You're asking the wrong question. The circuit breaker size is based on the wiring size, not on the application size. The purpose of the circuit breaker is to protect the wiring from fire. A better question would be "what size wiring do I need for an 18 amp load?" Then you can work out the circuit breaker, receptacle, etc. afterward, based on @HerrBag's ...


2

You can install an insulating cover on the inside of the unit. Some vendors caution against using outside covers unless the unit has been cleaned and drained first.


2

On second review of the photos, I don't think that the corrosion is due to electrolysis. The dielectric nipples should be adequate to prevent that and there is no sign of issues with the hot connection. As for the T&P connection, if the copper drain pipe does not come into contact with anything then there is no closed circuit for electrolysis to take ...


2

I'm thinking that the installation is missing this dialectic union. Your "dialectric" nipple has an ABS plastic coating inside a galvanized steel pipe. If the dialectic union were used in conjunction with this nipple it would provide electrical isolation from the copper - galvanize connection. This document explains this in better detail.


2

I'm not sure why you have 3 switches, and only 2 12/2 cables. But I'll give it a stab anyway. The fan unit should have 1 Red wire. 1 Black wire. 1 Blue wire. 2 White wires. 1-3 Green or Bare wires. The red wire in the unit should control the heat, so you'll hook the black from one switch to the red wire of the unit, and the white wire from the same ...


2

I really question the wisdom of switching just the lower heating element. Doing so is going to overwork the upper element. I assume you are trying to conserve electricity, but this tactic is not going to be a great benefit to you. The upper element is used as the "quick recovery" unit that gives the cooling water from the lower part of the tank a boost as ...


2

Are you sure the AC isn't actually a heat pump? A heat pump looks about the same as an AC, but in winter it runs in reverse to pump heat into, instead of out of, the house. Examine the markings on the outdoor unit and see if it's a heat pump. If so, this is normal.


2

I wonder.....are there some water headers made where the cold water dip tube can be dropped into either pipe from the top of the unit? Strange I know answering a question with another question. Such swappable scheme would lend itself to some replacement installations where the Hot/Cold lines of the existing plumbing are opposite to the factory default ...


2

If you remove one, the other may not be able to handle the heating demand. This could lead to a cold room, and/or a shortened life of the heater. If you still want to proceed. Shut off the breaker, and disconnect the second heater as close to the breaker as you can. Don't just cut the wires, disconnect them at a splice point inside a junction box. Cap all ...


2

This is just a guess, but you're probably only seeing existing hot water in your house's pipes flow back to the water heater, since there's none of the resistance that the full tank of water can provide.


2

Low water Air lock or circulator not working is most common problems. What is the pressure of system ? Should be around 12 cold 20 hot. Add water to system if lower. You may have automatic feeder. Check for any air bleeder that can be open.


2

For a short term need where you'll turn on the heater when you need it and turn it off again shortly afterwards, you're probably going to be best off with some form of radiant heat. This type of heater will emit most of its heat as infrared radiation that you can direct toward wherever you're standing. A typical radiant heater will have ceramic coated or ...


2

Sizing conductors and breakers Almost all wire you can buy will be rated at 600 volts, so you won't have to worry about voltage when sizing wires. What really matters is current. Your wires will be sized to carry enough current for the load, and your breaker will be sized based on the wire used. When installing electrical devices, it's always a good idea ...


2

The recent studfinders have voltage detectors that are more reliable than the stud detection. Verify you have heater wire with a helper switching off the breaker while you have it under the detector. You may have to install a junction box to get enough slack or run a new wire from the t-stat to to the heater.


1

My furnace controller has an "accessory" terminal that carries 120VAC whenever the blower is on. I wired a receptacle to this terminal so that noisy accessories (namely a drum humidifier and a condensate pump) only come on when the blower is on. My blower is loud enough to mask the sounds of the accessories. Maybe yours is, too.


1

Turns out it is a heat pump / AC unit.


1

This type of radiator should be warm to the touch, not hot like an cast iron radiator. If you touch the fins with two or three fingers it should feel hot enough to be very uncomfortable. Lastly, go to incoming pipe coming up through the floor again, it should be very hot, too hot to touch for more than a few seconds. Usually the water moving through the ...



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