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5

The reason furnaces (as opposed to heat pumps) keep running is to cool them back off since the burner is pretty hot. It may be a safety issue (too much undistributed heat could make the furnace hot to the touch and possibly result in a fire), but I suspect it's also done to extend the life of the furnace from large temperature swings with the side benefit of ...


5

I tend to pour a cup of bleach down the line once a month. Without that at least in Florida you WILL get an algae backup in the line, which if you have bad overflow sensor can cause all kinds of fun water problems. If it is already blocked, just pour the bleach and let it sit. Eventually enough algae will die and the block will clear itself out.


4

You need to restrict the flow through that duct, either by installing a damper like this in the duct, or by installing an adjustable register at the duct outlet, and closing it off until you get similar flow out of all three ducts.


4

Based on the comments, I think you are talking about the condensation line from the air handler. For the condensate, you shouldn't need to worry about bacteria. It's not like you are drinking from it, and it doesn't form a pool of stagnant water in your system (unless it is plugged). You do need to worry if the condensation line gets plugged up, however. ...


4

If both your central air handling fan and outdoor compressor are running and your not seeing any sort of cooling after a 10-20 minutes than I'd venture a guess and say it's time to call an AC repair service. I'm curious what you are pushing in that makes the compressor turn on? Are you somehow bridging the main capacitor? Capacitors tend to be a common ...


4

You should contact an Electrician or HVAC technician. There seems to be a short-circuit somewhere in the circuit supplying the heating unit. DO NOT reset the breaker again until the problem is fixed. The reason I suspect a short-circuit, is because the breakers are reacting so quickly. If this was an overcurrent situation, the main breaker would likely ...


3

Warm climates are good candidates for heat pumps. Heat pumps have more efficiency in heating mode when the ambient temperature is warmer, less efficiency when the ambient temperature is colder. If the outside temp falls too low, the heat pump stops providing useful heat. This is why heat pumps are often supplemented by "emergency" electric heaters that ...


3

Heat pump? Keep salt away from the unit. Salt will attack and totally decompose the fins and will create electrolytic corrosion in the joints between aluminum and copper leading to destruction of the system. Icing during operation in a damp climate is normal, it's supposed to have a defrost cycle it runs through to remove the ice. Heat Pump Operation: ...


3

Some newer compressors have a built-in delay to protect them from damage. You should check the number of recommended cycles per hour in the manual to find out if this is an issue for your unit. Damage could be caused by overheating over time, or a flooded start - depending on the design of the unit.


2

ice usually means either your air handler isn't pushing enough air across the coil, or your system is out of refrigerant. so first step is to set the cool/off switch to off. then set your fan switch to on. if the air handler fan does not turn on, then you have a problem with your air handler or thermostat. possibly cheap. possibly something you can fix ...


2

Rheem's Digital Programmable Thermostat Model# RHC-TST411MDMS. This Thermostat is Required for Enhanced Modulating Features. Check this site to determine the exact model and specs.(PDF file) http://www.expresshvac.com/res_components/gas_furnace/hvac_rheem.asp Most of these Rheem furnaces are gas fired, forced hot air.


2

Sounds like the ducts expanding and popping against themselves and the wood framing as they heat up. If that's the case, it's nothing to be concerned of since they are designed to expand/contract.


2

Yes, that is correct. A closed-loop heat pump work by circulating a refrigerant in a loop, where there are two heat exchangers separated on one side by a compressor and on the other by a valve. Your expectation is correct: In heating mode, the inside heat exchanger does not cause condensation and therefore does not dry out the air. Having said that, there ...


2

Check the thermostat O (orange) terminal with a multimeter to ground. Most brands energize (apply 24V AC on the terminal) in cooling mode. A bunch of things could be going on such as a wire loose, bad thermostat, bad control board in heat pump or bad reversing valve but the first thing to check is the thermostat then you can work your way back to the ...


2

Your heat pump switches between heating and cooling mode through a reversing valve. It sounds like that is where your problem is; it could be that your thermostat has gone bad, or it could be something else. The outside condensing unit is blowing 68 degrees because the system is pulling heat out of the outside air, and pumping it into the house.


2

A blower will only work if you are content with A/C only and no heat. It's probably illegal to have a house with no heat unless you live in the tropics. AFAIK, most A/C units cannot be converted to heat pumps, so it would likely be a complete system replacement. Also, with conventional heat pumps in all but the most temperate climates, you need a source of ...


2

It's illogical to compare the efficiencies of gas to heat pump systems because the way they produce heat is completely different. One directly burns fuel to produce heat, the other consumes energy only to move heat around. The source heat for heat pumps is essentially free. Thus calculating heat pump efficiencies will yield numbers well over 100%, something ...


1

I've been told that a properly sized heat pump should run almost non-stop during the days that the temperatures are the normal low for the season and area. Any lower than the normal seasonal lows would kick the strips on.


1

This might need to be confirmed by others, but the emergency/auxiliary heat is a subsystem of the heat pump that does not need to be turned on at all. I own a heat pump too with electric heat backup. It kicks on when the temps are below 30 degrees or the temp is raised to much manually, more than 2 degrees higher. Otherwise it does not come on. My bill for ...


1

Your heating system is sized for your house and climate. At some outside temperature, it will reach a point where ANY SYSTEM, running all the time, cannot input enough heat to compensate for the heat exiting via the roof, walls and windows. The rate of heat flow equation is analogous to Ohms law I = V/R Take I a rate of heat loss, V as the Temperature ...


1

first, if you have an air conditioner in your attic, then there should be TWO drip pans, and TWO drain lines. one of the drip pans should be built in to the air handler/coil unit the second drip pan should be at least as big as the entire air handler and coil unit, and positioned under the air handler to provide coverage for the entire unit both pans ...


1

I'm not sure if there are versions of heat pumps that have the compressor and evaporator both outside, but mine has the compressor outside and the evaporator/air handler inside, which is about the same size as the air exchanger you have in the picture. So if you install a system similar to mine, you won't have any space savings. On another note, heat pumps ...


1

Heat pumps are quite common in Central Oregon where summer daytime highs are often over 100°F and nights below 25°F. I have been in many a heat pump rental house in winter at below 10°F in a wide range of efficiencies from below eight to over 20 SEER. They work fine. For units with a SEER of over 14 or so, the backup heat does not kick in ...


1

You don't have to worry about a heat pump being inadequate for cooling tasks, they are available in a large range of sizes. For really large buildings, they can be ganged together. 800 sf is a walk in the park for residential sized units. I don't know the specifics of what determines when the backup furnace kicks in. IIRC, it is the combination of a lower ...


1

I had this problem once. Is the water flow in your shower controlled by a single knob? If so, then there is an adjustment thingy inside the faucet knob that controls the ratio of hot to cold water. Take the knob off by prying lose the center plastic cap and removing the screw that holds it on. There will be a plastic piece underneath that you can pull ...


1

A heat pump should meet your heating needs fine in Arizona. Note that you can get them in different efficiencies. The AC performance will be rated in SEER, and the heat pump performance rated in HSPF. For example, with Trane units, you have options from 14.5 SEER/8.5 HSPF up to 19 SEER/9.0 HSPF. The higher-end units may also be quieter. Check with your local ...


1

It may be a problem with the limit switch on the furnace or something like that. Most likely you'll need to get someone out to look at it. In the mean time, make sure your thermostat is set to heat and auto. Unless you have one that doesn't let you specify heat/cool, generally On just forces the fan to run constantly, auto will make it turn on when it's ...


1

My first guess would be that there is a problem with the pilot light (if there is one) or the ignition (if there isn't), not the heat pump. The same thing happened to me about 5 years ago.


1

This is a long shot but check your electrical panel and make sure the circuit breaker for the air conditioner is not tripped. I think the air conditioner unit will be on its own circuit separate from the blower that circulates air throughout your house (at least that is how it is set up in my house). If the air conditioner circuit is tripped, then the AC ...


1

A frozen suction line is generally more indicative of poor evaporator coil airflow rather than being low on charge. Before you jump into checking pressures or troubleshooting the furnace/condenser controls, check to make sure your furnace fan is providing proper airflow, the filter is clean and the coil(s) are clean.



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