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For general hardness and strength, I would choose a hardwood. To resist cracking, I would choose a diffuse porous wood, and avoid grain runout (wood fibers should be approximately parallel to the sides) Maple would be ideal. Cherry or birch would be good too. Ring porous woods like oak, ash, or hickory are more prone to crack. These woods are deliberately ...


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You really need another skirt board for the wall. When I have my druthers, I make the skirt board the same thickness as the base that will meet it at the top and bottom so it ties in continuously. If need be, I rip a base so the top element, if it has a profile, will make it look like the base goes right up the wall along with the treads. As a mention, the ...


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90% of any job is proper preparation. Sounds to me like you have a really poor base to start with. You cannot simply cover it up and hope for a good outcome. Although it will be a lot of work. I think you should take the time and expend the effort to strip this down to the sub-flooring or maybe even the floor joists and install the flooring properly. If ...


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It's impossible to say for sure from your picture since it is already stained. But generally speaking the approach to this is trial and error with scrap pieces. You'll want to make sure the piece of totally dry before comparing the colour and it can look quite a bit different when wet. It's unlikely you will get an exact match even using the exact same ...


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The "correct way" to install this is (in this order) to install the drywall, paint, install baseboard, install flooring, finish baseboard and flooring (assuming it's not tile or carpet), install shoe molding. The drywall should not touch the floor. The baseboard both protects the drywall and hides this gap (which is there to allow for expansion). Wood ...



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