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I voted up Jack's answer since he is right on with everything. Just want to add that you are not doing your whole house so you need to figure out if taking out 1/2" MDF is going to affect the height matching of the adjacent flooring. You may very well have to put back a 1/2" sheet of plywood after ripping out the bad stuff.


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I have seen 3/4" thick hardwood floors go over 1/2" subfloor with no problem. Your floor structure is plenty heavy to carry any load you apply to it. In many older homes (really old homes) there was no subfloor at all, and the floors held up very well. Remove the layer of MDF, clean up the nails, and reset all the nails that are in the subfloor. This ...


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The best idea would to start by ripping up the MDF assuming the plywood underneath is good and not rotten or destroyed, then check the floor to see if it is level again, if it is you can put down new 3/4 plywood and screw it in, there is no need for glue here. I would recommend screwing it into the joists though, not just the plywood! Then lay down your ...


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If your concrete slab already has poly sheeting under it (it probably does if it was poured in the 90s), you don't need to worry about adding a dedicated vapor barrier. So regardless, don't worry about "sealing" the concrete. Anyway, most closed-cell foam engineered flooring underlayments already constitute a vapor barrier, and that's probably okay even if ...


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I have had 3/4" hardwood floors placed on Dricore on 2 different jobs. One below grade with a foundation drain system the company I worked for installed. Top of the line, no holds barred water control system. The floor went down a is still performing beautifully. 1 1/2" staples were used so they did not go through the plywood so far to poke holes in the ...



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