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17

I think you're confusing the terms "caulk" and "silicone" for the colors "white" and "clear". A lot of caulks are made from silicone rubber, and they can be white or clear (or other colors). To answer your question, I would use a clear caulk around the base of the toilet as it will look better next to the wood. I've always used caulk because it prevents ...


17

It's likely a knot that came loose. The circular grain around it sure makes it look that way. The wood can turn blackish like this if water gets in there and sits which could easily have happened with a small hole like that. How a Pin Knot is formed. Broken branch with encased dead twig, when the branch split under snow load, the twig slid through the ...


11

According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact. Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you ...


11

Solid wood flooring in a wet area is inherently risky due to the moisture everywhere. Pine flooring (a moisture-absorbent softwood) is inherently risky to install. Solid boards are inherently more prone to cupping than engineered boards. Gluing a wood floor to concrete is inherently risky because concrete is a big sponge that absorbs and releases moisture ...


10

Surface finishes are notoriously difficult to get smooth when the process is interrupted. The glossier the finish, the harder to have sections blend. If you are talking about preliminary coats, especially if they will get a light sanding between coats, this is probably ok. For the finish coat, I would strive hard to do it all in one shot. If you simply ...


9

Your problem is obvious. Moisture is migrating up from the slab. I don't imagine anyone suggested to do a moisture check on the concrete before you started? There are meters that can measure the % of moisture in concrete. With that said, it is never a good idea to put wood or laminate directly on concrete slabs or uncured concrete upper floors. In your ...


7

I suspect the previous answer will rarely apply to the problem as reported by OP. Most likely the floor isn't "solid" hardwood (ie - it's probably not 2-3cm thick floorboards laid directly over joists that have sagged). I've often seen what OP describes on "click-lock" flooring, where interlocking 6-10mm thick panels are used to "tile" the area. The panels ...


7

Often permanent markers can be removed with isopropyl alcohol. First, assuming you still have the markers, I'd try using this to remove it from a test surface. If it works, then try on the bottom of your table to ensure it does not damage the finish. If it is safe, then use it to try and remove the marker from your table.


6

No you never silicone a toilet to the floor. If you do and have a leak, you won't be able too tell until it's too late. Then if you do have a leak and can't tell, there goes your floor.


6

The answer is "it depends" -- on what you need, on how well it's cared for, and how often you want to refinish it. Real wood is measured by something called the "Janka Hardness Scale" -- oak is a good choice, as it's rated at about 1300, with only more exotic woods being harder. I was told that Oak would probably be scratched by my dogs' claws, though, and ...


6

It's also known as rosin paper: Its main purpose is to stop air leaking through cracks in the subfloor and floor which is especially important if the space below the floor is unconditioned. (You'll also find claims that it prevents the floor from squeaking or muffles sound transmission through the floor.)


6

The cause is generally that the flooring or subfloor is not securely attached to the joists underneath. Usually this happens because the joist settle or bend over time and the flooring becomes loose or detached in spots. If you can get underneath the floor and find the soft spots (say from the basement or crawlspace?), you'll likely see that there is a gap ...


6

Normally when flooring changes you would use a proper transition. for example where your tile meets your other room, you will want to leave a small gap between the wood and the tile and then use a transition to cover the gap. I would guess if you have a wood floor in the middle of a tile floor you're going to have to leave an expansion gap all the way ...


6

Not doable at all. Old houses have 3/4'' thick wood planks as subfloor, not 8x4 sheets of plywood like today's houses, so I would say that it's ok to consider your hardwood floor the subfloor. That's if you're putting another wood floor on top. However, for the purpose of tiling you need an additional layer of plywood to reduce deflection that will cause ...


6

@iLikeDirt covered a lot of important information, but I'd like to add something since the majority of the information assumes that there is a problem of excess moisture due to the concrete, while the expert assessment says it is actually dry cupping that is the problem. Dry cupping implies that the interior humidity is dropping below the average ...


5

It really depends on the floor. Some flooring is very thin layers over particle board, so sanding can easily eat through all the top layer. Other flooring is thicker. If you can, see if you can figure out the manufacturer and type. If not, the best thing to do is find a place where experiments will not be visible and try sanding. In a kitchen, one great ...


4

It seems that you can refinish it, pretty much just like any hardwood floor. However bamboo has a very low burn temperature, so you need to be careful with the sander that you don't burn it.


4

Belt-style floor sanders were current years ago, but more recently the best bet is a random-orbit style sander like the Varathane ezV sander. The random-orbit sanders don't have nearly the risk of grooving that the belt sanders do, and these ones also have a built-in vaccuum which collects a large portion of the dust, unlike the sanders of my childhood. ...


4

One option is to replace the board. You would need to: Cut out the old board. Find a board that matches the type and grain of the rest of the floor Install the new board. Stain it to match. Buy your dog a chew toy. :) UPDATE You can remove most of the old board by: Cutting it out with a circular saw. Using a hammer and chisel (or even a flathead ...


4

Our house is on a slab foundation, and has floated flooring in a large part of the house.. The previous owners had the foundation repaired at some point, and while it may be better than it was before the repair, there are still places with noticeable flex in the flooring. Do not simply install a floating floor material over a non-flat surface.


4

The wood outside will expand and contract due to changing humidity. You need to provide some spacing between the boards for this. If you're installing on a humid day, the spacing can be narrower than if you're installing on a dry day. Any wood kept outdoors will experience a much more varied change in humidity than indoors, that's why the installation ...


4

If possible, try framing out the edges. I would remove all of the existing sub floor (since it is particle board) and then add addition framing along the edges as needed for the new plywood. In cases where you can't meet a joist, go perpindicular and create a nice foundation for the floor to attach too. I would make sure the floor has a firm foundation. ...


4

I just tried "Goof Off" http://www.goofoffstainremover.com/ on the underside of my table and it worked very well. Of course the underside of my table is sealed with polyurethane. You might just want to leave it. This seems strange at first, but I resigned myself to it years ago. Now when I look at the child inflicted damage around my house I think of it ...


4

This looks like a crack caused by the wood drying and shrinking. Likely caused by dry winter air, although it's also possible that the wood wasn't properly dried before the bench was assembled. (Humidifying your whole house can help with cracks like this, but wood is a natural material and nothing will preserve it perfectly forever.) It also doesn't help ...


4

Oxalic acid, either in crystal form or as part of a pressure treated deck cleaner/brightner will chemically dissolve the stain. If you use the crystals, use all normal precautions for acids (eye, hand, clothing). You can sparingly apply with a small nylon artists brush. Try 5 min increments (5 on, wipe off, 10 on, wipe off) until the stain starts to ...


4

There is nothing wrong with putting engineered flooring on your slab in Florida. It can last a really long time and I have installed it in my own home on slab and helped with other homes. Buy a really good wood. Make sure that you really give it a scratch test. Get samples and whatever. I used to take pennies, screwdrivers, smack my wife heals, all ...


4

Wall to wall carpeting is usually attached to the floor using carpet tack strips around the perimeter like these The raised tack points grip the edges of the carpet. Once you pull up the carpet, there is probably a padding that is just laid on the floor without adhesive. If it is rubber backed, the rubber bottom surface sometimes sticks to the floor ...


3

Take a look at strand bamboo. It is very hard, twice as hard as oak, and extremely resistant to scratches. We installed the Morning Star Strand Carbonized Bamboo in most of our house and have been very happy with it. In two years of daily living, the only scratches we've had are where my toddler was jabbing and scratching with a screwdriver. You will need ...



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