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For what it's worth, what I wound up doing is using the Floor Muffler underlayment, which is its own moisture barrier. As per the directions, I applied it over the subfloor and about 2" up the walls. It's hard to see, but I have indeed left an appropriate half inch expansion gap between the wood and the drywall. And this is engineered hardwood so I don't ...


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Sanding will definitely help. After you sand you will be able to tell which direction of staining you should go. If you still see a lot of marks and scratches that are a "darker" color, then I would pick a darker color of stain to hide the marks. It could be that after you sand you will see about the same color difference. If you stain it the exact same ...


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I am sure they sell large pans somewhere but that shouldn't be a concern. Your freezer should be contained, in that if there is a power outage and everything melts - the water should stay in your freezer. Note: I have to think if I was putting a deep freezer on my hardwoods I would lay it on an area rug. Even insulated the freezer bottom is pretty cold ...


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If you choose to use plywood, go with the 3/4" T&G for the layer under the carpet. The trough were the heat pipes used to be can be spanned by the 3/4" plywood too. Also since the carpet compresses under foot, keep the plywood below the hardwood layer about 3/8" or so lower. That way when you step there, the transition will feel level.


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Hi There is also a rubber tube type floor filler that will expand and contract as your floor moves in the different temperatures of the seasons http://www.draughtex.co.uk/ It is in the UK but they ship world wide.



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