New answers tagged hardwood-floor
I agree with @ecnerwal about planning for the future. If that's too big a plan, and as an alternative to cutting a whole new access hatch, you might just do some light excavating between your access and the filter to turn 30 minutes of misery into 10 minutes of misery. If your dirt is horrible clay, rent a light jackhammer with a shovel attachment. Having ...
Provided there's enough space around your cut, you can use a router guided by a guiding lathe fixed to the floor by some adhesive tape. Select a +/- 3mm cutter, adjust the router depth to the thickness of the wooden floor and move it at the inside of your rectangle. Finally work out sharp corners with a chisel
As Keshlam commented (hence this answer is community wiki), An oscillating multitool is a good choice. You can probably rent one if you don't want to buy one. I would practice on some scrap wood.
The humidity swing you mention is accurate for the air, not so for the wood. It does not change that fast. It's all about the MC (moisture content) of the wood when it comes to acclimation. The humidity does affect it but over a period of time. The main thing about acclimating, is getting the new flooring close enough to the humidity of the location it is ...
Humidity is variable everywhere. I live in the desert where the indoor humidity varies from 10% to 60% depending on the time of year. I've installed engineered hardwood and it's totally fine. Don't most houses in the northeast have hardwood flooring? I think you'll be totally fine too. Just keep in mind seasonal cycles; if you install during a high-humidity ...
When I had to get two separately laied areas to meet up, I tapered several rows of boards (cutting new grooves on a router) to ease them into alignment. For the exact issue you post, I sighted throughnthe doorway first and worked tongue-first frommthere to one wall and groove-first to the opposite wall. You don't hqve to start at one wall, you know.
In addition to the two previous answers (which can be used on the same project; some boards are easier with one method or the other), I'd like to point out another idea that is good for especially tricky spots or boosting confidence. Even when well-practised, there will be cuts you do not want to mess up or extreme cases like a brick fireplace surround. ...
Here is how I have done it before without anything more than what I was already using, the material, pencil, a tape measure and a miter box.
A sliding bevel, which is a fairly low-cost tool designed for exactly this type of job - the blade can be set to match an unknown angle and locked, then it can either be measured, or used directly in setting, or used to draw a line. No affiliation with or recommendation of the image source. Or, a piece of cardboard or stiff paper (fold or cut to match ...
Your choice of radiant heat is the best, no matter where you put it, albeit it will not be the most efficient under your floors as a retro fit. The way radiant works is just that, radiant. Extremely different than forced air, where warm air is blowing out of ducts, dramatically changing the humidity. If warm air was blowing under your floor, yes they may ...
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