Hot answers tagged hardware
7
You'll need hollow door fixings - something like these
Expanding wings grip securely in hollow doors, thin skin partitions, plywood and fibreglass.
Ideal for the home, boat and caravan.
6
Looks like an L corner bracket/brace. Probably worth upgrading to a metal one if it would fit:
Amazon product link
5
Definitely the Brad nails. The finish nails will leave larger holes (16 gauge vs 18 gauge usually) and will be more likely to split the wood. Based on the size of your shoe, i dont think you could use pin nails (18-23 gauge).
The Big Box home improvement store always sell kits with finish, brad, and pin nailers for pretty cheap. Some have 2 guns, some 3, ...
5
There is no reason you cannot have conventional double doors on a closet.
Bracing the Inside Corner
To solve the free corner issue, you can put a small stop, attached to the floor at the center point between the two doors. It needs to be wide enought to stop both doors (probably anything over 1 inch would do) and tall enough to catch the doors at the ...
4
Admittedly, I haven't done it before but I came across instructions awhile ago (courtesy of eHow and Google). Maybe they'll be helpful.
http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-fix-a-broken-tub-trip-lever
http://www.ehow.com/how_3391064_replace-triplever-bathtub-drain.html
-M
4
Unless you're using armored (BX, or metal-sheathed) wire, you can use either type box, your preference really. If you use BX, you need to use a metal junction box.
There's a couple different types of boxes. The plastic ones with nails on them, and the metal ones with clips are designed to mount with their face 1/2" farther out than the front, which ...
4
Try searching for "utility pole standoff bracket" and you'll find things like this Garvin bracket. Also check if the Band-It Company has something you can use.
3
NRG greenboard is 98% air and therefore only 2% polystyrene
NOTHING can be mounted TO this. Your reel may be mounted THROUGH it to the studs behind.
From the Greenboard handbook:
17.1.5 Solid Blocking of Fitting and Accessories
Consideration should be given to the installation of
wall mounted accessories i.e. taps, electrical ...
3
Depending on the size of the pole, you might be able to use a chimney mount, which is straps that go around a solid object, or possibly a wall mount type if you can screw into the pole. ChannelMaster sells a variety of mounts, but you can also find some at your friendly local Radio Shack, though the 2" requirement might be a problem, I think most of the ...
2
I'm not sure about ChrisF's suggestion since I've never had that particular problem (with the door rubbing on the hinge side) - is the issue that it's hitting the frame on the hinge side or the doorknob side?
If it's hitting the jamb on the doorknob side (as if the door is now too wide) then the usual solution is to trim down the door. Usually I would run ...
2
How do I go about fixing this? I guess I could take them off again, and chisel away a little on the door grooves or in the frame,
That's pretty much the only way - but take a good look and work out which side (door or frame) needs to move and in which direction. I've done this in the past and gone the wrong way at first which isn't good.
In some cases ...
2
better to remove the old one, then bring it with you when you do shopping, then show to the place where is you gonna buy it, or go to the second hand renovation shop and could be they have a spare of the old bathtub. But I believe there is have somewhere. And I think they are still standard...
Good luck : )
2
With NM wire, I'd go new-work plastic myself, I find them easier to work with.
The metal boxes must be wired to the ground wire, and they need inserts for the knock-outs to keep the NM cable from possibly being cut by the sharp edges of the knock-out holes. With plastic, neither of these is a concern.
Also, remember that if you plan on finishing the ...
2
You could get a length of 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle steel, and manufacture your own.
Start by using a chop saw to cut the angle steel into pieces as wide as you need.
Next cut one side of the L to 3/16". A jig will help you cut the pieces quickly and accurately.
Use another jig to help you drill the holes. A drill press with a carbide-tipped or cobalt ...
1
16" refers to the length of the slide when closed, which will usually also be the depth of the drawer you're installing them on. Your cabinet (or whatever you're installing in) would need to be at least 16" deep, plus the thickness of any false front you may have on the drawer if you want to make them flush.
It's also a nominal length--I just bought these ...
1
What type of finish are you going to put on the shoe molding? Paint? Stain?
If you are planning to paint it, I would use use finish nails as they have a little larger head and will hold more securely. The holes from the nail heads can then be easily filled and painted.
However if you are going for a natural wood look, I would use brad nails. The ...
1
Depending upon the thread cut, it may be a sloppy fit even if the threads per inch, and diameter are the same. I believe it is galvanized after the threads are cut, therefore the threads might be cut deeper before the galvanization. Dissimilar metals don't often get along, but if it is a non-critical application and the nut is not a sloppy fit, you should ...
1
What I would do if it is hitting on the latch side is to remove a screw on each hinge in the middle of the hinge and replace it with a screw that is about 3½" to 4" long. Tightening these screws will pull the jamb in on the hinge side giving your door room to close on the latch side. Try it.
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