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10

I almost always use the self-drilling stud solver type anchors. I find that they are tough enough to hang just about anything. Aside from those, the only other anchors I've found that I like are the toggle-bolt type, which are more useful if you need to hang something from the ceiling.


7

You'll need hollow door fixings - something like these Expanding wings grip securely in hollow doors, thin skin partitions, plywood and fibreglass. Ideal for the home, boat and caravan.


6

This article has a beautiful summary of the different types of anchors.


6

After removing the two screws on the handle, you may need to pull on the handle (away from the 3rd screw) to provide some resistance so the screw can begin unthreading.


6

Looks like an L corner bracket/brace. Probably worth upgrading to a metal one if it would fit: Amazon product link


6

It means the slide is 16" long and that you can pull your drawer out a full 16" relative to the slide. If your cabinet space was 20" deep, and you mounted this all the way at the back then your drawer would not come out 16" but instead 16-4=12".


5

There is no reason you cannot have conventional double doors on a closet. Bracing the Inside Corner To solve the free corner issue, you can put a small stop, attached to the floor at the center point between the two doors. It needs to be wide enought to stop both doors (probably anything over 1 inch would do) and tall enough to catch the doors at the ...


5

Definitely the Brad nails. The finish nails will leave larger holes (16 gauge vs 18 gauge usually) and will be more likely to split the wood. Based on the size of your shoe, i dont think you could use pin nails (18-23 gauge). The Big Box home improvement store always sell kits with finish, brad, and pin nailers for pretty cheap. Some have 2 guns, some 3, ...


4

Unless you're using armored (BX, or metal-sheathed) wire, you can use either type box, your preference really. If you use BX, you need to use a metal junction box. There's a couple different types of boxes. The plastic ones with nails on them, and the metal ones with clips are designed to mount with their face 1/2" farther out than the front, which ...


4

Admittedly, I haven't done it before but I came across instructions awhile ago (courtesy of eHow and Google). Maybe they'll be helpful. http://www.videojug.com/film/how-to-fix-a-broken-tub-trip-lever http://www.ehow.com/how_3391064_replace-triplever-bathtub-drain.html -M


4

Some finish nailers will shoot both trim nails and brad nails. Look for one of those. And yes, a 2" nail thru just about 1" shoe molding should be fine as long as it hits the baseboard straight on.


4

Try searching for "utility pole standoff bracket" and you'll find things like this Garvin bracket. Also check if the Band-It Company has something you can use.


4

I dont know how you would make curved channels. But anything short of installing pulleys in the posts I don't think the wires would be tight enough. With the codes 4" maximum opening the wires need to be extremely tight to prevent a child from spreading the wires apart. Plus the turnbuckle and screw eye contradicts the clean lines of the wire.


4

your question is "what is this thing called", and I agree that T-nut is a good answer, but when you described your application, perhaps what you're looking for could be called a "leveling foot".


3

It sounds like you already purchased a hook, but I can recommend 3M Command products. They use a removable, non-damaging adhesive strip.


3

From surfing a bit, it seems Baldwin has a variety of handlesets that work with a limited number of their locksets. If you can't buy just the plate, you might only need to buy the lockset. It seems to be called a 'Landing Plate' http://www.electronicsweekly.com/made-by-monkeys/materialsmaterials-processing/view-image-youll-2009-01/ We’ve had ...


3

NRG greenboard is 98% air and therefore only 2% polystyrene NOTHING can be mounted TO this. Your reel may be mounted THROUGH it to the studs behind. From the Greenboard handbook: 17.1.5 Solid Blocking of Fitting and Accessories Consideration should be given to the installation of wall mounted accessories i.e. taps, electrical ...


3

You could get a length of 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle steel, and manufacture your own. Start by using a chop saw to cut the angle steel into pieces as wide as you need. Next cut one side of the L to 3/16". A jig will help you cut the pieces quickly and accurately. Use another jig to help you drill the holes. A drill press with a carbide-tipped or cobalt ...


3

Depending on the size of the pole, you might be able to use a chimney mount, which is straps that go around a solid object, or possibly a wall mount type if you can screw into the pole. ChannelMaster sells a variety of mounts, but you can also find some at your friendly local Radio Shack, though the 2" requirement might be a problem, I think most of the ...


3

Here is a similar answer from another question though this question is more multi-purpose. There are several kinds of drywall anchors and they each have their own weight rating. Some work by drilling a small hole and tapping in a plastic sleeve and others work by drilling a bigger hole and screwing a plastic sleeve and there are others where you drill a ...


3

There are plastic anchors. My suggestion, avoid them like the plague. I much prefer the self-drilling that Eric posted, easier to install and much stronger hold in my experience. With these, you have to pre-drill the hole, get it too small and it doesn't fit and you have to drill again, or it gets stuck partially and you have to rip it out or try to mash ...


3

I have it! 4" cable pulleys (used in garage doors) You put them on the inside, (no post grooving) The 4" diameter means the spacing between strands will be perfect, the tensioning will be uniform, with no kinking. You just offset the opposite pulleys down by 4".


3

What I think you are referring to are commonly called "T" nuts. They are made for wood, formed metal channels and other applications. A google search may produce images that you can find at a home improvement center.


3

Could be a bushing, or "plain bearing".


2

better to remove the old one, then bring it with you when you do shopping, then show to the place where is you gonna buy it, or go to the second hand renovation shop and could be they have a spare of the old bathtub. But I believe there is have somewhere. And I think they are still standard... Good luck : )


2

Magnet latches are cheap and rarely work well. Consider replacing the hinges with capture, European style closing hinges that hold doors closed and don't require any mechanical holding devise on the open side of the door. They are inexpensive and work well and are fairly easy to install.


2

What I would do if it is hitting on the latch side is to remove a screw on each hinge in the middle of the hinge and replace it with a screw that is about 3½" to 4" long. Tightening these screws will pull the jamb in on the hinge side giving your door room to close on the latch side. Try it.


2

I'm not sure about ChrisF's suggestion since I've never had that particular problem (with the door rubbing on the hinge side) - is the issue that it's hitting the frame on the hinge side or the doorknob side? If it's hitting the jamb on the doorknob side (as if the door is now too wide) then the usual solution is to trim down the door. Usually I would run ...


2

How do I go about fixing this? I guess I could take them off again, and chisel away a little on the door grooves or in the frame, That's pretty much the only way - but take a good look and work out which side (door or frame) needs to move and in which direction. I've done this in the past and gone the wrong way at first which isn't good. In some cases ...


2

Sounds like you want something like a tambour door lock like this: You can find it here.



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